Kevin Kenny
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Lots of very good questions, let me say that the process was based on my research. I do not pretend to be an expert in this field, quenching to soften. It was particularly mentioned that steel that is brought up to a slow heat should not be quenched as it will become brittle. They specifically suggest that it should be left to cool at room temperature. Apparently this is different for gold and silver and specific only for steel. tempering. There are different opinions about the temperature and the time it should stay at that temperature. The objective here is again to slowly bring the piece up to a low red heat. This temperature is supposed to be around 250 to 300. when this happens and to check that the correct temperature has been reached and you have a magnet check the steel to see if it has lost all its magnetic properties. This is the critical temperature. At this point it is dunked in the oil. The type of oil does not seem to be important except for environmental issues. At 300 degrees there is little chance of fire. Some use cooking oil some use old discarded motor oil. Water is not recommended as it will again make the metal brittle. The time spent in the oven is just to get to temperature slowly back to the 250 to 300 degrees. Once achieved You simply turn off the over and let it cool naturally providing your wife does not come around and want to know what you are doing in her oven. This was my big problem as we were renovating her kitchen at the time hence the use of the toaster oven. The swishing of the steel in the oil is an old holdback from my drinking days as i was a rum salesman. -
Thanks for all the great advice. We are not there yet but close with the tools we have. That power point presentation from Toni was invaluable as you will see when the video is done covering this part of the build.
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I am doing all that Alan, its the scale that is giving me the challenge. Also on the Mill its difficult to see the depth of the cuts. Ive made some 10 scrapers so far but not happy with the results. Today i am going to see of i can hook up one of my cameras and blow it up on a monitor to get a better feel for the depth of cut. My Turbo carver is small enough to cut the curved surfaces on the hacksaw blades but my smallest files are useless.
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Working on making the moldings. Having a hard time with the scale. Most of my tools , blades, files are too large, but i will get it done but it will take a few attempts. So there will not be another video until I get it right.
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Harbor Freight 4” saw blade. I forgot to say i purchased a 4” saw blade with a 1/2” arbor for the Jim Byrnes saw and it works great. Its a bit noisy but i can now make 7/8th cuts when making bulk stock. It is a bit noisy but works great. At $5.00 how can you go wrong. In the past i used my Proxxon to do this work but it would struggle when making large amounts of stock.
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Thats exactly how i made them Greg and it worked great. The only problem i had in the beginning is when shaping they got hot and the solder melted, so i used jewelry soft solder and that solved the melting issue.
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Your soldering work is epic. kevin
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You make it look so easy. Beautiful work as usual.
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Really very hood Henry
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Sorry Scuffer ports
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How did you flair the outside ends of the scupper port pipes. kevin
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All done so back to making the rest of the trunnels. I hope i can find a case design that allows broken glass to be easily changed.
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At the same time i am carrying out a clean up to the Emma Berry and replacing a piece of broke glass in the case. This was an early case i made and it a miracle i got it out with out damaging the rest of the case.
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Still have the goal to move the split bamboo pieces in the bottle to .020 trunnels in the glass on the right
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