bridgman

How would one add treenails to fasten veneer planking? Would the veneer be to thin for the treenails to 

hold it place.

A very nice planking job!

Bridgman Bob

Found this book, for $200 for both volumes via bookfinder.com.  Seller was Able Books a common vendor on bookfinder.

And yes they are the ones published by Seawatch. Find bookfinder.com very useful isn sourcing books as they list all sellers with prices

even those in Europe. Also will give listing of libraries, and marine museums,  that have a copy. Hope that helps.

Bridgman Bob

Rodger:

An interesting thought, considering the seriousness that some individuals put on the cup races eliminating a windless

would have been considered. The photos I have show large crews on board while she is under sail, some show a dinghy on 

board, and others with an anchor on the forward port side rail. Cannot correlate photos dates to actual race dates. The few drawings

I have show outlines of some type of windlass, not much bigger than  the centerboard winch, hence the search for fore deck details.

Nice article on the Puritan in Novembers Woodenboat magazine, may have to try contacting the author.

Bob

Have a screen shot of  a drawing titled "windlass early American" of several views of a hand operated windlass with no other identification

except that it is copyrighted by MSW. Probably downloaded it more than ten years ago.It is part of my attempt to  find what a windlass for the 1885 America's  Cup racer Puritan would look like. All the information I have found so far, photos, drawings  books, museums, NRG members, have no details of the foredeck of the Puritan. Considering using the windlass drawings shown in Chapelle's "American Fishing Schooners" as a model as the drawings are from the same era and the Puritan was designed by schooner designer and built in Lawleys yard. Model scale is 1:50 and an old Momoli kit, with deck details incorrect and out of scale.

Any comments, suggestions , or guidance would be appreciated.  

Bridgman Bob

Steve:

Recommend  you run all of you wood through a surface planer to obtain as smooth a surface as possible.

This will permit an evaluation of the grain pattern appearance and any flaws or unusable sections. Selection of  

the next cutting sequence could then be made. Same effort will be useful on the edges of each piece.

This can be done by hand with much difficulty, a power tool would be quicker and less taxing.

Bridgman Bob 

Strelok:

Depending on how deep you would want to get into sailing theory and application you might look at "Aero-hydrodynamics of Sailing" by 

C. A. Marchaj, 1980,700 pages. His examples used are contemporary sailing craft, but the concepts would apply to ahy wind driven craft and there numerous  variations discussed.

Bridgman Bob

Marcus:

Considering your location,I might suggest some place like Ace hardware or a local farmers supply store. Their stock of materials 

can be amazing, my local Ace even stocks K&S brass tubing. 

Bridghman Bob

 Bob

Thanks for the clarification,note that your can is identified as "clear" which identifies it as wax free.

Seems that in my area stores only carry amber which is not wax free. Bummer.

Bridgman Bob

My perpetual question about shellac use is are people using dewaxed shellac or off the shelf, or rattle can shellac?

Past readings, from a woodworker view point, is that dewaxed shellac can be a  universal   undercoating for any type of 

finish, water or oil. Would be interested in comments experience.

Bridgman Bob

Thanks for the history update of the Fox river, unaware and unexpected! Looking forward to your model.

Bridgman Bob

Your staining problem is probably based one the wood being used. Ramin has a different cellular structure than other woods, its more like a bamboo

thus it absorbs stain differently. Thats why the rudder dried quicker than the ramin parts.

Another suggestion, something I have done for years both for modeling and woodworking,is to use paper towels with any petroleum based solvents.

It appears solvents will not oxidize the paper material as it does with rag material (cotton based fabric is the worst).

Bridgman Bob

Thank you Chuck for your reply and clarification. Thought that may be situation with the 

internet, still a bit annoying that someone  makes an effort to post a helpful response 

and then have it used somewhere else without  acknowledgement of the author.

Bridgman Bob 

Administrators:

Bob Cleek's question and mine was not answered. What is MSW position on Google and other

search engines using unauthorized MSW post as a reply to their search responses? Some of MSW post 

are rather ordinary, some verge on being original intellectual property, such as the original paintings posted, cad drawings 

made by the poster, and even original and unique Excel spread sheets. My annoyance is that these entities are monetizing 

work of NRG/MSW members without authorization or recognition.

Looking forward to your more knowledgable response.

Bridgman Bob

Any experience on using dewaxed shellac as a brush on primer for small metal parts? Universally available

and supposedly compatible with many finishes.

Thanks

Bridgman Bob

A modern day interpretation of the Pilar has been built by the Broooklin Boat Yard maintaining much of her original appearance.

It is  described in the January/February 2021 issue of Wooden boat magazine with  several pictures and description. 

Bridgman Bob

Some notes on the book. It was published in 1942 by W. Norton Co. with a forward by H. I. Chapelle, 

who praised Grimwood  book as an excellent  guide book for beginner modelers having much useful 

detail to make good models without to much difficulty. Drawings in the book could be use to build a 

model from as they are clear and uncluttered. Subject ranges  from brig of war"Boxer" to a model racing 

yacht, 1930s era, by various draftsman. If considering buying a copy, look for the first edition as the drawings are fold 

out and more useful.

Bridgman Bob

Video is a nice demonstration of Brynes saw capabilities but NOT a how to! Missed 

numerous set up steps and normal safety precautions that should be used with

any table saw. Was nice to see workings of the Byrnes saw.

Bridgman 

bob

Sitka spruce is highly sought after wood for sail boat masts by  contemporary wooden boat builders

and was in use for years before the fiberglass era.The wood is light and strong and easily worked with

sharp tools and saw dust is nonirritating. Takes varnish well with slight darkening,would assume it to take 

paint as well. Not sure how it would take to sharpe bends. Works well for sailing dinghies  and have never seen one

fail. Believe it would make a good modeling as it is light and easily worked in areas where a light color is wanted.

Sitka spruce only grows in the Pacific Northwest and into Alaska, hense its name,  and is relatively rare. Curious

as to how it ended up in Australia, must be a story there. Envious of your find.

Bridgman Bob

It would be much more difficult and more inaccurate to cut a 3/4 x 4'' plank

 with the 4'' side at right angle to the saw bed. You would have to make 

more than one cut to go through the width. What should determine your final choice is having

the grain as close to or at right angles to the final surface and make your selection on those pieces,as they will

also be easier to bend.

Bridgman Bob

Les:

Do you have access to a band saw? You would lose less material to saw dust

because of the thinner blade .020 compared to .125", thus more planks. Blades 

are designed for resawing with special tooth patterns and off sets. There

are simple jigs for a band saw that can make planks, ruff cut,  to about 1/8".

Bridgman Bob

All, of the pictures photo of Grand Banks fishing schooners I have seen never show 

baggy whinkel on any vessel. As these where hard working vessels that depended on 

there sails they did not seem to think it necessary.

Bridgman Bob

As a starting point you may want to access the MIT library of N. Herreshoff designs and drawings

of his work. They are, or have digitized, all his designs of marine fittings and hardware. He redesign

numerous yacht fittings and hardware for his yacht designs in the early 20th century and they form the basis 

for current hardware designs.  Word of warning, MIT is scanning everything, something like 14000 files!

Bob

Built same kit about twenty years ago, found it at the Ft Myers flea market. Couldn't resist it.

Researching for more details on Pen Duick found a beautiful book, unforutunetely in French,

of watercolors and detailed sketches of hardware, deck furnature and interior details. My attempt at

Goggle translation is that it's a logbook of watercolors of Pen Duick under different sailing conditions.

Title is "Pen Duick" by Marc p. G.Berthier, published by Gallimard, Oct 2001. ISBN 2-74-240779-0. Hope thats right.

Artwork and sketches are useful for detailed model work.

Bıridgman Bob

Try using a liquid silver polish or something like "Braso". Then wash with warm water to remove

Remaining polish from nooks and cranies. Silver polish can be  usually found in supermarkets.

Details of your mainsheet boom buffer can be found on pages 558,549 and 550 of Chapelle's "American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935".

It consists of a cut from the catalog from the Edson Corp., manufacture of the device, which details dimensions and recommendations

based on vessel size. The amount of details of various schooner components is almost overwhelming!