kees de mol

New progress on the herringlugger. I started to finish the outside of the hull with thousands of 'fake' rivets. For these rivets I used some glue or paint for clothes. I also gave the hull a solid layer of primer to seal the rivets. In reality the ship would have more, much more rivets but I keep it this way. Iam afraid more rivets will do more harm then good. Now I have the idea off a riveted hull without turning it into a hedgehog or something.
 
I am also starting to sealize that this ship take much more time than the smaller models that i built earlier. It seems like evything takes twice as much time. But fortunately the challenge remains great and I enjoy the building of the model and the thinking out of everything.
 
Thanks for watching, commenting and hitting the like button.
 
(Updates will take a bit longer in the future. After working as a volunteer now since January with elderly people with dementia, I got a job as a student nurse at a big healthcare organization. This after more than six years of being not capable of working because of my bad health. The training will start in february. I thank  my wife, my friends and God (and offcoarse the elderly people for stealing my heart😍) for these opportunities after so long being sick)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Thanks everybody for the kind reply and the likes. 
 
Jan: The navigation lights came out of my  modellingstash and they are made from plastic.
First I painted them black and after that a thin layer with coppercolour and some washes and drybrushing with oilpaint. I was very happy with result but maybe I add some more copperoxidation  for the effect.

Thanks everybody for the kind reply and the likes. 
 
Jan: The navigation lights came out of my  modellingstash and they are made from plastic.
First I painted them black and after that a thin layer with coppercolour and some washes and drybrushing with oilpaint. I was very happy with result but maybe I add some more copperoxidation  for the effect.

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

In the past few months I managed to build some new parts for the herringlugger. 
 
 

Well done! With this Covid 19 thingy it has given me lots of time to peruse build logs that I have nither had time for or that did not pique my interest. Again, well done!

Very nice build of this kit. Looks more like scratch building

Finally completed all the frames. They are not sanded, beveled nor treenailed. There are over 300 parts making up the futtocks of the frames: 23 full frames, and 11 pair of half-frames and cant frames. All of boxwood. I wore out a dozen scroll saw blades cutting through that stuff. Fortunately the blades are cheap: about $0.50 a piece. The last photo shows a closeup of one of the full frames. I didn't use the Hahn method of cutting them out. All frames were constructed using individual futtocks assembled over a drawing of the frames. It IS possible to get tight joints between the individual timbers using that method.

As a confessed tool-junkie I am always freaking out, when I see theses jigs and stuff !
 
These kitchen implements are marvelous and impeccable metalwork. Would you care to show us how you did them ? I gather the copper soup-pot is a piece of metal forming ? The stove is made from etched parts ?

Hi Joe,
 
I actually have a CNC machine and I have been wrestling with the idea of using it to cut the frames.  I do not think it would be faster (each frame would have a unique tool path), but the resulting frame would be much nicer. They would be dead accurate as I could also machine the bevel on the outside of the frame.  Since this is my first Plank on Frame model,  I have a lot to learn about making the frames manually.  I've always beleived that to automate a process, you need to be able to do it manually to completely understand what is involved.  I've learned so much just by making these and each frame is made a little different as I learn.  My table saw cannot repeatable produce thin strips of wood to the tolerance I would like.  I built a thickness planer from a hand planner, but it is real finiky. Even dealing with the paper patterns was tricky. It took me a while to figure out the best method to adhere the paper pattern to the wood.  I now use a glue stick and apply it judisiously to the wood, not the paper, as the paper gets soft, wrinkles and expands. So many things to learn.

 
I have created a DXF and PDF file for each frame, front and back. Below is an example:
Frame 26 front.pdf

Measured many times the heights of the different decks.
Meaning of the colorful push pins:
Yellow and red is for the waterline. 
Green and blue is for the lower deck
which will not be visible. 
White and clear is for the main deck, and decks I don't know the names for. 



This is the lower deck that will be completely hidden. I have put it in anyway because I will use it as a guide for the beams for the main deck and other small deck. 
 
What is the deck called under the poop deck (where does that name originate from?). 
Does the forecastle deck have a focsle on top of it? 
 
Please feel free to set me straight or steer me to a location where all decks are defined on any ship. I have books that have some explanation of decks but they are not complete. 
Thanks 
 
Marcus 

Beautyfull model!

Thank you Johann and Hubert for visiting and the for kind comments.  And as always, thanks to all for the likes and stopping by.
 
 
Trawl Winch Continued
 
Work on the trawl winch has been intermittent and slow, but here’s where it stands.
 

Some of the materials for the main section of the winch are shown below.  The round disks that will make up the drum reels were cut from .02” styrene sheet using a paper circle cutter.  The two hand wheels are 1:87 boxcar brake wheels injection molded in Delrin.

 

I decided to change the position of the bull gear from where I had it originally drawn.  The gear has been moved from the end of the shaft to the center and now has a drum reel on either side.  I did this after additional research convinced me this was by far the most common configuration of double drum winches regardless of time period.  Once this fact penetrated my skull, I changed the drawings accordingly as shown below.

 

The drawing below describes how the drum reels are assembled.

 

I used solvent and CA gel to put these reels together - solvent when the pieces could be dry fit and gel where the parts were placed freehand and a brief window for position adjustment was needed.  The shift ring slot will be cut later on.

 

The base frame is made from six pieces of styrene “I” beams.  Cutting templates are drawn and the pieces cut.

 

The base frame construction is simple.

 

The frame is simple, but placing and riveting the corner angle iron plates was time consuming.  I didn’t have any injection molded rivets that were small enough for this application, but the detail is easy to simulate.  A rivet in the 3/4" diameter range was needed, so I heat stretch some plastic sprue frame to the diameter required.  I hold the piece of sprue over a flame and when the middle begins to slump, I pull it apart (stretch it) to a fine thread.  Somewhere along the length of the stretch will be the diameter I need and a one-inch section is found that calipers at .015".  Monofilament fishing line also works great for things like this if the right diameter is in your tackle box.

 

The angle iron (and "I” beam) is styrene strip material from Evergreen.  This structural shape material is a real time-saver if one of their available dimensions matches what you need.  Here I’m using angle that is .060" (1.5mm) per side.  That scales to 2.88" in 1:48 and is close enough to the 3" I was looking for. 
 

Now it’s just a matter of drilling holes into the angle iron, gluing the end of my stretched plastic into the hole and trimming it with a slight reveal sticking out.  I use a piece of brass shim stock as a height gauge to trim them off.  I could round over the heads with fine grit paper - but my sanity is more important.  

 

Some rivets were placed along the upper I-beams.  Bolts and plate washers hold the base frame to the deck.

 

Pillow block bearings are made from copper tube and .010" styrene.  There are two layers of styrene, one under the bearing and another wrapped over the top.  The main shaft is .070” diameter brass rod. 

 

In my parts stash I found this white metal gear.  It is about the correct diameter and thickness for the bull gear so I’m going to use it as such.  I cleaned it up and drilled out the hole for the shaft.  The lower portion didn’t cast very well and is missing teeth, but I’ll rotate that to where it won’t be seen.  A drum reel disc is shown as a relative size comparison.

 

A section of angle iron will be bolted to the I-beam base to support brackets for the brake wheels and clutch engage levers.  The brackets are made from .020” x .040" styrene.  The clutch lever bracket gussets are .010” material.

 
 

I’ve started on the clutch levers and yokes, but there is still a lot left to do - brake pads, pinion shaft, main winch head, frame and sheet metal guard for the auxiliary winch head, etc.  And of course, the coloring and weathering. 

 Thanks for stopping by.
 
Gary

John, Keith, Mark, Moab, Jim and Alexander - thank you so much for the kind remarks and continuing interest in my model build.  I truly appreciate it.  And thanks to all for the "likes" and for swinging through.
 
 
Here's a short update on the beginnings of the trawl winch.
 

I’ve spent an honest amount of time digging up details for a winch to go on this model.  Like the gallows frame, I didn’t find a standard "this is what everybody used" winch.  If I could time travel back to southern New England in the 1920’s, I’m sure I would indeed find boats using standardized equipment.  Hardware and especially machinery such as a trawl winch were most likely purchased from marine distributors or direct from the manufacturer.  It seems unlikely a winch would be built locally.  Fisherman needed a trawl winch that worked flawlessly and was practically indestructible.  And repair parts had to be available off the shelf to the get the boats back up and running quickly.
 

It would be great to have model numbers, catalogs, and exploded views of these winches, but I have none of those things.  But the few drawings I do have include block outline dimensions of the winch and period photos show me what the winches looked like.  So along with materials of more recent trawl winches, I have enough information to construct a winch that is at least historically honest if not precisely identical.
 

These draggers were small boats and their gear was sized accordingly.  Below is a plan view of the winch I drew up for this model.  Though small, it is actually larger than some I have seen.  Notice the auxiliary winch head at the upper left in this drawing.  It is driven off the main shaft with a sprocket and roller chain.

 

Here’s a small winch in place on a 1940s dragger.

 

And here is how I will position mine on deck.

 

These winches were pretty simple and consisted of drum reels with adjustable drag brakes and a clutch to engage them.  Below is an end view of a 1960-ish trawl winch showing the clutch lever, the hand wheel for brake pressure and a winch head on the end of the main shaft.

 

Here is my version of it.

 

And then a side view.

 

This winch has no automatic mechanism to spool the cable evenly onto the drum as it is being wound.  This was common on these boats and may be because the reels were quite narrow and therefore spooling unnecessary.  Also, on many of these boats the cables wind/unwind at a very steep angle directly to the towing blocks, so if any spooling was needed it might have been done manually with steel push bars.  The image below shows the steep take-off angle of the winch to the towing blocks.  Also, I like this photo because it shows a net heavy with catch almost pushing the rail of this little dragger under water.

 
Below is a photo crop of a 1970s Cape Cod Eastern-Rig fishing boat.  I wanted to show this image because it is the only one I've seen showing the use of steel bars to guide the cable onto the winch reels.  Notice that the foot of the bar is placed into a wooden plate with sockets providing a choice of leverage positions.


 
In 1:48 the winch for my model will be a little over 1-1/8” by about ¾”.  In the next post I'll make up parts and put it all together. 
 

Thanks for stopping by and have a wonderful new year.
 
Gary