tasmanian

Some photos of the stained glass windows in the apse, and the front rose window (not glued yet):








The side tower under construction:




And the future together with the cloister, modified in its structure compared to the initial plan:

The suite with a completed facade:






 

The following :





In addition, here is the final support of the village proposed by the kit: I will surely not use it at the end, another idea is already in progress to make the supports, but it will serve me to place the elements and the walls between buildings ... A sort of shipyard in fact!



Finally, I planned to make a little richer in the constructions than the rough stone representation, with nothing for the openings of windows, doors, bell tower, etc ... A little brick will not do any harm (to create very small, small!):

 
 
I only spent 10 or 15 more hours there: each stone takes time to adjust!
Afterwards, you have to sand, scrape, make the main joints, clean, wash, etc ... I have not yet definitively chosen what appearance I will give to the whole: all the full joints or leave a little "day" between the stones.

All this may seem a bit wobbly from time to time, but I am convinced that it will only make once in place, clean joints, aged, vegetated, in its environment on a base!

So...
I started something completely different.

Years ago (around twenty!), I subscribed to a Del Prado collection (when it still existed ...). I never had time to do this thing, and I quietly locked it in boxes all this time.
Today, to change things a bit, I brought out all this stuff, and I plan to move forward a little.

It is a medieval fortified village from the Middle Ages to be built in mini brick, stone by stone. As usual with collection publishers, Del Prado had entered into a partnership with a kit manufacturer which still exists : Aedes Ars. Some of you may know.
They design all kinds of reconstituted stone kits of monuments, houses, castles, etc.
 
It is a long, tedious job, with each stone to be adjusted. And personally, I'm new to the field ... We'll see!
That said, I won't be able to prevent myself from personalizing a little...
 
 
 

 
At the end of the construction of each element, the whole must constitute a village; it is planned to make it a global diorama. I'll do it a little differently ... But we're not there yet!
In parallel, I will certainly also start a boat to change my mind from time to time. I will present it to you later. 😉
 
The first building will be the church of this village.
The work has started: we have to organize, cut, correct, strengthen the cardboard structure (I mounted the cardboard 20 years ago, it had collapsed a bit, we had to take off parts to put them back more late) ... ☺️
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Deck clamps preparation.

Next parts - keelson, sternson and stemson.

Post 44

Bits and pieces

Side steps

These are plain affairs that will stand a little enhancing with extra profiling. The kit items do however include the hand holds.

Two outboard steps are indicated although I note that four are shown on the Marshall painting.

Same problem here as with Cheerful; it looks like there ought to be additional steps.

Two steps may just pass muster with the open drift arrangement, effectively an extra step, but the distance between the upper of two steps and the closed in Drift rail is the same as the distance taken up by both two lower steps.


3862(2)
For this reason, I have decided to fit three outboard steps, the added third step being fixed just above the sheer rail.

Inboard steps: the kit doesn’t provide these, whereas the Alert book shows a three-step inboard entry ladder between deck and Drift rail.

With my current set up a ladder would cover the shot rack and interfere with gun side tackles for the second from aft gun.

Still, I think there should be steps, so it looks like re-visiting the Rough-tree rail and shot rack.


3630
I identified the problem as the hance coming too far forward on the Drift-rail, preventing the ladders clearing the side tackles.

Worth mentioning that use of pva allows for painless removal of the rail, quite a delicate fitting, which would not have been the case had I used ca.

I keep use of ca to the absolute minimum on my builds, there is often a need to do modifications and ca tends to make the wood brittle and using acetone to loosen ca can be a messy business.

 

3852
The hance has been modified, the shot rack moved aft, and the inboard ladders installed.


3864(2)

3860(2)
Layout looks more logical to my eye now.

Not yet ready to fix the deck fittings but it’s been a while since I reviewed the layout.


3839(2)

3840(2)

3845(2)

3843

3842

3838
Time to move on.

B.E.

12/12/2019
 
 
 

Post 7
Moving onto the Garboard Plank
Back in the Boatyard I now invert the hull to start with the Garboard plank.
On this kit with two plank layers it's not really necessary as the purpose of the first planking is to provide a solid and properly shaped hull form onto which the second layer is glued.
However, the second layer will need to be properly planked for good effect so it does no harm to employ some of the techniques on the soon to be hidden first layer.

1169
The position of the Garboard plank at the forward end involves a little bit of best estimation. Because I have no rabbet the plank tapers to a near point at the bow end; I have it just forward of Bulkhead two and aft of the bottom end of the keel slot.

1171
The rest of the plank I have left at full width, but inducing  some twist towards the aft end to allow it to lie flat against the false keel and stern post.
If nothing else, fitting a specific Garboard plank will allow the correct position to be confirmed, and if it's a little out - well it will be covered up.
I also bevelled the plank back edge where it meets the keel, and thinned it down a little on the back face where it runs into the stern post.
Even so, a fair bit of thinning down will be necessary , basically down to nothing, to allow for the second planking.
 
With the Garboard planks in place the adjoining plank is fitted.

1261
This quite a tricky one as there is a  tight lateral curve at the forward end where it goes around the Garboard plank and into the stem slot. There is quite an acute  angle to the plank end.
I then add a third strake also requiring lateral bending at the bow end.

1264
 To achieve the required bends the curve has to be formed at least a third along the length of a strip to get the required purchase. The Lime wood did not lend itself easily to the lateral bending process with breaks occurring at fault lines along the grain.
 I did suffer quite an attrition rate of breaking strips, a problem not experienced with hardwoods such as Box. This resulted in several of the strakes being made up of two planks butt joined.
The final strip of a very irregular shape lies beneath the curve of the hull and was spiled to fit.
Using the provided strip of all one width makes avoiding  stealers almost impossible, but as a first layer  base this is not really an issue.

1270
At the end of the first planking I am left with a pile of off-cuts.
There is sufficient strip to do the job, particularly if you follow the suggested kit method of planking.
 
So here is the completed first planking in all it's rough glory.

1272

1273

1274

1275

1276
The sanding process now begins, there are a few hollows and ridges to sort out before I move on.
Then comes the really interesting bit.
 
B.E.
28/07/2019
 

the ornamentation looks great

the cargo load looks like a load from El Chapo ?

I am afraid he is not only talking about this hole marked in my pic as "A", but he didn't properly do spiling of his planks and did not run the lowest plank (garboard) all the way to the bearding line - as "B".
Also, his planks don't abutt into the bow section of the keel (into the rabbet) but end before it.
Kalakukko, do yourself a favor and read a couple of tutorials here on planking the hull by David Antscherl and Chuck Passaro and, after obtaining extra replacement planks from Korabel, remove wrong planks and do the  spiling (determining the correct run) of your planks,- replace them, and everything should be OK.  

Thanks Druxey.  Actually I am looking at rigged models.   Several examples follow.   The specific time period I am interested in is mid/late 17th to early 18th century.  The following are a fourth rate of 1705, Grafton 1679, Royal William 1719, and a 3rd rate 1650.  All models are at Preble Hall.   Thanks again.

It seems my supplier may not have put my order in for my #6-32 stainless steel helicoil thread inserts as they are not in and they have no record of the order being placed just before the holiday shut down.  So possibly they might be in by early next week?
 
I took another shot at making the rudder and although it looks much better, I believe the third time will be the charm (practise makes perfect).  I decided to drill a hole to create the relief radius in the upper rear ornate shaping.  I should have possibly chosen a smaller diameter drill.
 
I was quite impressed with my first attempt at tabling (stepped cut and fitting of the two main pieces) and my second attempt was that much better.  The backing and sole plates were glued on prior to sanding down the tapered width this time.  This seemed to work better.
 
I cut the chatter groove in the backing plate without any real direction or description.  Where does it start and stop?  What is the width and depth?  With what I know about fluid dynamics, and realising the plates are 6 inches thick, I assumed 3 inch depth and 1/3rd the width would seem realistic.  I did not get it cut as straight and clean as I had hoped to, but the practise and process is tried.  I will practise on a piece of scrap to get a clean crisp cut for next time.
 
The two square holes at the head for the main and spare tillers were drilled out and the corners were filed to shape.  I decided to use one size though the piece where as in reality it was 12 inches square forward and tapered smaller to a square hole 1/3rd the width and height of the width of the rudder at that location.  My next and final attempt will be properly sized even though no one will likely see it.
 
While shaping the taper at the pintle cutout side corners I slipped and took a little extra off in one spot that no one will likely see ... but I know it is there and it bugs me.
 
So I will do it once again.  I've got the process figured out and the practise in. 

Oh, hope he would recover nicely. Best wishes! 

Congratulations!  Well done!

Cheers OC for the comments and the likes 
I have now finished the Vasa . I can say I have really enjoyed building this model . A few miner admissions but nothing that can't be fixed . 
Thanks for following 
Martyn

Thanks for all the great replies guys 
A small update. My wife is slowly getting better still a long way to go but onwards and upwards we go  
All the rigging has been completed on the foremast and I have fitted a missing gunport on the mizzen quarter deck . 
Next job fitting the gunport lids to the side, quite a long job as each one is pinned with a brass pin to give them strength. The thread hanging down the sides are from the rigging as I leave them till I put the rope coils over the belay pins so I can adjust the sails to how I like them .
cheers for following 
Martyn

Cheers for the comments Michael.
Sorry for not posting for a while but life has really got in the way. Got made redundant in May so have running around trying to get another job . Then last week my wife got taken into hospital for open heart surgery for a replacement valve so have been running to and from the hospital so not a lot happening on the build and I have lost a bit of mojo to get on with it. On the bright side I would like to thank Michael aka mid 1400s for sending me lots of pictures on the rigging as the ones from Deag are totally wrong. I have managed to rig the bowsprit sails and still got some more ratlines to do but onwards and upwards . Hopefully will get some more done next week. As always thanks for the likes and following.
Martyn 

Hi all.
Some more work on the Vasa . The rigging has been started and have completed the formast. The mainmast yard with the sail has been rigged before the shrouds where put on as the rake of the shrouds would make it hard to get to the hallards so decided to do them first. I had to make the ramshead block as instructions for the rigging is totally different from what's on the real ship . To break up the ratline tying I painted some more carvings and placed them in their positions. Looking at the Vasa book I noticed a fixed block on top of the mizzen chainwhale that takes the bottom sheet from the mainsail so made some up from some wood stock . The forebrace and mainbrace have been rigged so it's back to ratlining. 
Thanks for following 
Martyn

Carrying on with using the first drawing (in post #63) made the Fore Boom,  Fore Gaff, and Jumbo Jib boom all diameter are the same 3/32" dia at both ends and 1/8" dia in middle, wood I used was from the kit.
Made jaws with boxwood same as Main Gaff made small jigs to help with bending to size the sheet bands, clew bands, boom tackle band, did make the Peak Halliard bands but they disintegrated when I left them in blacken solution to long opps. 
 
Fore Gaff
 

 

 

 
Fore Boom
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Jumbo Jib Boom
 

 

 

 

 
These are all the little jigs which helped
 

 
The Gooseneck 
 

 
Then went back to Bowsprit and made the 4 and 3 eye bands, this is how I set up to solder
 

 

 

 
Then all I needed to do was cut, file to shape and drill a .024" hole in each leg
 

 

 
Three band went the same way
 

 

 

 
The collection
 

 
Again thanks for all the likes and posts 
 
Regards
Richard
 

Thanks for sharing your processes and techniques, beautiful work!

Sorry for not posting for a while but life gets in the way.
Any way on with the build . Lots of painting and fitting of the decorations on the side galleries and Stern and boy some of them are small . The stem was painted and the PE fitted . I have started rigging the guns with one pulled back so I can show how the Outhaul tackle was used to pull the gun inboard. Next job finishing the guns then on with more painting.
Thanks for following 
Martyn

Thanks for all the likes and comments guys 
A bit more done on the Vasa .
The hull has been stained with one coat of natural oak and two coats of mid oak and the nails picked out with black stain. I have replaced the ladders with wooden ones as I didn't like the PE ones you get with the kit . Painting of lots of carvings has now started in earnest, oh my poor old eyes lol.
cheers for looking in 
Martyn 

The yard lifts are all done now (see picture).  The other picture shows the first piece of rigging on the foremast lower yard.
 
I'm now going to get into the yard braces, and I have looked at the rigging diagram and concluded that the best sequence for braces to preserve ease of access for rigging is:
 
Do the top three yard braces on the main mast next. Then do all of the yard braces on the mizzen. Then the top two yard braces on the foremast. Then rig the inner brace on the main mast lower yard (matches the one I've done on the foremast lower shown below) Then rig the three lower yard braces on the foremast Finally, rig the three lower yard braces on the main mast. If I do it that way, I hopefully will minimize contortionist activity getting "inside" rigging already installed.
 
Getting close to the end now.
 
Regards,
David
 
 

I believe that is called a monkey fist