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tasmanian

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  1. Like
    tasmanian got a reaction from Nirvana in Modifying Harbor Freight Workbench for Full Drawer Access   
    i have the same  workbench and i am happy with it. also the price was great 
  2. Like
    tasmanian got a reaction from Obormotov in MONTAÑES by Amalio   
    it s such a great job. . unbelievable . bravo 
  3. Like
    tasmanian got a reaction from Obormotov in MONTAÑES by Amalio   
    Amalio congratulations. Impressive work .
  4. Like
    tasmanian got a reaction from Obormotov in MONTAÑES by Amalio   
    Impressive work Amalio , congratulations
  5. Like
    tasmanian got a reaction from FrankWouts in Carving for Royal Caroline   
    it s really amazing !
  6. Like
    tasmanian got a reaction from FrankWouts in Carving for Royal Caroline   
    Beautiful work . congratulations
  7. Like
    tasmanian reacted to fmodajr in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Andre,
    excellent attention to detail!
    very nice!
     
    Frank
  8. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    I have finalized the main mast itself, by making seizings around it. In most other builds, I see that brown/white rope is used for this. But I did so in black rope. This seems more logical to me, as this would probably be tarred rope. And in photos of the replica of the Batavia (in Lelystad, Netherlands), I also see black rope here.
    Further near the top, I added a thin band of black foil (which I had made at work..) to simulate a metal coil around the main mast. I had seen this in the build-log of md1400s, and it seemed to me a nice addition.
    Further, already attached the big block for the stay from the mizzen mast.
     
    And then made and installed the tackles on the main mast. The two tackles are here not the same as on the foremast, because now only one is with violin block and the other with a double block and with two attachments on the whales. The four violin blocks for the foremast and now one violin, I had somewhere in a box. But the sixth, I made myself, from nutwood and it looks actually better than the others..




  9. Like
    tasmanian reacted to samson in Cutty Sark by samson - Billing Boats   
    Hi Hof thank you for commenting - I appreciate it  
     
    I have now started on the rat lines. I have further modified my clamp by making a leash brake - the first knot has always caused me torment, but now it goes like a breeze.
     

    Cheers  
     
    Jens.
     

  10. Like
    tasmanian reacted to samson in Cutty Sark by samson - Billing Boats   
    hello etubino  
    thanks for your comment i appreciate it
    I am currently raising the mast - here are just a few pictures of it. I also just made me a new space holder for the rat lines (modifede the old more pricese ) which I will soon be busy with.
    Her is a pic. of my old space holder but the drills always catses the tread , and get stok in the other riggin . so now i changed the dril with to small woodstiks - hope it wil bee bedther .😁
     
    the old one

    The new on.
     
    Cheers 
  11. Like
    tasmanian reacted to BobG in Pen Duick by BobG - Artesania Latina - 1:28   
    For some reason the link to the photo you posted did not work in your post so I opened it below. Thanks.
     

  12. Like
    tasmanian reacted to GrandpaPhil in Kate Cory by GrandpaPhil - FINISHED - Quick Restoration   
    The bowsprit is back up:

    It needs a replacement piece on the side, the bobstays need some TLC and the head needs new cheeks, which are completely missing.
     
    The windlass has been reattached:

    The aft boat is back on:

    I believe that I will have to cut some rigging lines to fix the masts.

  13. Like
    tasmanian reacted to GrandpaPhil in Kate Cory by GrandpaPhil - FINISHED - Quick Restoration   
    I found an old model of the Kate Cory at a flea market today, that is in dire need of repair.  I believe it to be an old Model Shipways kit, but I do not know for certain.

    Some initial observations:

    It is actually, mostly correctly rigged.
     
    It has a planked solid hull.
     
    It appears hand built.
     
    The castings appear to be pewter.
     
    The whale boats are bread and butter construction (much like the last Model Shipways model that I built).
     
    The paint scheme is completely wrong.
     
    It’ll make a nice addition to my living room.
     
    By the way, pardon the painting mess on my building board, I’ve been tearing through my 28mm miniature collection the last few days.
  14. Like
    tasmanian reacted to mtaylor in Converting a Backyard Shed into a Model Workshop   
    I simply love your workspace.. It not only looks great but well thought out.
  15. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Hank in Converting a Backyard Shed into a Model Workshop   
    OK, so tonight I got all the worksurface pieces cut to size, fitted, and installed. Then, did a complete coat of polyurethane. Will sand tomorrow, and repeat. Also, installed one 36" receptacle strip below the side window and bought a 4' LED under counter fixture at Lowe's but that's going back - no installed wiring (110v AC w/plug) - not that I can't, but I would rather purchase a unit that's all there (plug & play, if you will!).
    Looked into the vinyl floor tiles - 12x12 would be extremely busy - I laid out a pattern of black/white diamonds 12x12 and that's just too extreme. But, 16x16 might work better and even 24x24 might work, as well. I know I can get the 16x16, but haven't researched the larger ones yet.
    So, here's where I'm at:

    With all the rain we've gotten in the last 2 days, I now have a leak somewhere up front and that will be tomorrow's Job #1 - finding and sealing it up. I think I know where there may be a problem, but day light will tell. Rain expected again tomorrow, but if I get a chance to explore, I need to correct this ASAP.
  16. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Hank in Converting a Backyard Shed into a Model Workshop   
    Mark, I appreciate the advice. The only thing about Lowe's is that you end of paying shipping if they ship it to your house. And right now I'm not sure about how long it would take to order the lumber vs going to another store near by and getting it myself.
     
    I did make a local run and picked up one of the 4 edge-glued boards I'll need - the short, 4' long board which will be shortened by about 5" or so. Tonight I got the backsplashes stained, cut to fit, and installed. During the Lowe's trip I also picked up (3) 12" W. Pine boards (they were cheaper than the shelves that were for sale!) - sanded, and installed them along the back, left wall. Then, finished the primer on the windows and touch up all around. Lastly, I brought the center work surface out from the garage and positioned it for install tomorrow. So, here's where we're at:

    Somewhere I have a bag of new receptacle covers and I can't find them in all this "stuff"!!!!🥵 I'd hate to have to go spend money on items I know are around somewhere!!! IT'S KILLIN' ME!!!!!
     
  17. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Nirvana in Converting a Backyard Shed into a Model Workshop   
    Okay, I guess it is safe to say this..... The Admiral and I are moving.
    A promotion has created this situation, not for me but for her.
    We have found a new house and I feel very fortunate, first of all the new house is almost twice the size of what we have today.
    The house have three bedrooms, which of one will become an office, then a guestroom plus the ordinary master bedroom.
    When the house was built the intended garage became a bonus room. Which will be our entertainment room.
    So now you are wondering where I will be doing my modelling?
    There is a one car garage but with a huge workshop. The previous owner was into making wooden furniture and probable leaving lots of tools behind as he will be living in a service center.
    The garage with workshop is all insulated as well.
    Two pictures for you guys.
     
     



  18. Like
    tasmanian reacted to BETAQDAVE in Converting a Backyard Shed into a Model Workshop   
    I was reading about your shop remodel and realized that all of my outlets were on the walls except for my main modeling table which has a power strip mounted on the right leg of the bench.  I hadn’t thought of doing it on my heavy duty bench until I read Bobs’ remark. 

     
        So I went down to the shop right away (before I could forget) and installed a power strip on the right side to remedy my omission. 

         I have had problems previously with cords getting in my way, and was surprised that I didn’t think of it myself.  I may install one on the left side later if I find the need.
         Being wheelchair bound, every piece of equipment in my shop is on casters to make it easier to clean the shop when necessary. (And to chase down some of those small items that always seem to dissapear underneath, where I can't reach them!!)
  19. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    I had previously already made the masts, and now I attached the big block for the main stay. This is a 12 mm block. I used big rope to attach it to the mast, using both a clamp and a winding to secure it. At the back of the mast, I used again a winding and then two clamps to make sure that it stayed at the mast. I had seen this in the build-log of md1400cs, where I also found a reference to the Vasa museum discussion in which it was explained that for the Vasa, the foremast was made of one pole. So, no windings around the foremast.

    Next step at the foremast: making and attaching the tackles. The Corel instructions mention that backstays are attached to the eyes on the channel, but the museum and the 1/10 model in the museum have tackles here. So, I chose tackles, and attached the end of the rope on the block, as I had seen on a Vasa museum photo.
    A tedious job to make the tackles. I used violin blocks, and 7 mm blocks. I used windings to create some distance between the block and the hook.



     
  20. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Before turning to standing rigging, I figured out that I still could to some tidying on the deck:
     
    The ropes of the cannons. Until now, I had the ropes more or less lying around on deck. I winded them up and glued them to the deck. For winding them, I used scotch tape. I fixed the rope with diluted wood glue, removed the tape and them glued the rope to the deck, again using diluted wood glue.
     
    Also, I made and installed the big block with which the main yard is belayed on the knight. This knight is below deck, and in my hull, there was no lower deck, so this sunken knight is glued directly to the interior frame.





     
  21. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    I have installed the bowsprit in place, and added the two wooldings.
    I hope to have counted correctly for the number of blocks attached to the bowsprit...
    I used 0.8 mm thickness of rope for the wooldings.



  22. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Attached some blocks on the decks. This prior to installing masts and rigging, because now I still have easy access.




  23. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Installing the rowboat on deck.
    Because the bottom of the boat is not flat, I had to make a small stand for it.
    Then installing on deck with rope. First I had attached the block to the ring with rope (picture 3), but the rope was too long, so I decied to install the block with a hook (picture 4). When installing the anchors, I had made this block with hook, so I used this one, although it is larger than the other block. In principle, a block with hook seems more logical, because when the rowboat is used, the rope with hook-block can be easily removed.




  24. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    During a meeting (Lelystad, The Netherlands) of model makers of historic wooden ships: a photo opportunity with good lighting.
    The current state of my model.
    The masts are not fixed yet, and the fore mast and mizzen mast are not in exactly correct angle...

  25. Like
    tasmanian reacted to Andre in Wasa by Andre - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Continuing with the foremast.
    Made the other three components of the mast: topmast, topgallant mast and the flag mast on top.
    The topmast has such a big diameter at the bottom, that I made it from two parts.
     
    Very happy now with my milling machine. Ideal to make the square parts at the top and bottom of each part.
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