David Lester

Made work table look like it's been used. Copper cooling box
 

Replaced lead on anchor with wood and brass bands. Purchase anchor chain from Walmart, liked it more then chains in kit. 
 

Made all the doors to open/close
Made rat board from flat tooth picks.

3rd update!  I managed to add my SuperCool avatar picture and downloaded Adobe Photo Express (its free and so far intuitive) to edit my photos.  Searching MSW the sideways pictures problem shows up a lot and is possibly due to large file sizes so I decreased the bytes or pixels or whatever and heres hoping they stay upright.   If you didn't guess I don't like computers and they don't like me.  But a necessary evil.
 
I finished gluing in the bulkheads with yellow glue which seems to get everywhere but is very solid.  Per the Hunt Practicum next step is to add the very thin aft/poop subdeck.  First I leveled the top of the bulkheads by filing them flat; one I had to glue a strip from the subdeck "sprue" as it was too low.

 
Next I had to attach the subdeck to the curved surface of the bulkheads.  The practicum has you push tiny pins through the top of the subdeck into the bulkheads, then pull them out once the glue dries.  I tried a different approach- overbend the subdeck and hold it in place with rubber bands.  So first step is bending the subdeck.  When I built the Model Shipways LongBoat I spent so much time bending the planks by soaking them in warm water for a while, then rubber banding them to cans or glasses to impart a curve, and leaving them overnight to dry.  They would usually end up curved like I wanted but took forever to dry, and whenever I clamped them no matter how dry they seemed they were always still a bit wet and would dent.  Then they eventually dried out and shrank and left a gap. 
So I decided to try the Chuck technique of minimal water used mainly as a heat transfer device and let heat melt the lignins.  The thin subdeck is very flexible so bending it is easy.  After spritzing both sides with a small amount of water spread evenly with my finger I used some string to tie the subdeck bent around a coffee cup.

Then I attached my blowdrier to the workbench (actually my woodworking sharpening station) with spring clamps, turned it on Low Heat and dried the water off.  After the top part was dry I took off the strings and the back was still wet so I dried it by just holding in bent in my hand.  As long as the heat isn't directly hitting your fingers its not bad and took about 10-20 seconds each side.  And presto, dried with a nice curve.  And I didn't have to leave it overnight.  While this was a very thin piece of wood compared to some of the planking strips I hope this is a prelude on how much easier this method is.

Now that the subdeck was bent (overbent on purpose) I did a test run with rubber bands and that seemed to hold it in place pretty well so I forgoed using the tiny nails.  Once fitted in place there were some tiny lift-ups that I added pencils to direct downward force and it all seemed to work pretty well.



And finally here are 3 pics of my finished MS LongBoat.  Lighting in the basement is from the ceiling so it shadows the lower parts of the hull, another thing to work on.  I felt that many model ship bases were too short, running from the stern to the prow, with the bowsprit sticking out waiting to be caught on something, so I made my base extra big.  Maybe too big in hindsight it may overwhelm the model some. 
 


 

 
Thanks for reading.  Have a great night, Cisco

The first task today was to install the anchor cable into position. This has to be fed through the hawse hole to the inner pair of bulkhead holes. I used a brass rod which I shaped so it would go through the two holes. I put a touch of ca gel on the end of the anchor rope and then pushed the brass rod into the end. It was then a very easy task to feed the rope through the two holes. Once both cables were installed I added a knot to ensure the cable would remain in place.
 
This picture shows the first anchor rope in position with the brass rod still in place.

 
The next picture shows both anchor cables in position with the knots in place.

 
A view of the cable in hawse holes. The anchor cable was fed through the holes nearest the bowsprit

 
The next task was to check if the 8mm bowsprit dowel would fit. I started this task by rotating (by hand) a 7mm, then a 7.5mm and finally an 8mm drill bit. I then used my large round file to gently file the opening a tad bit more.
 
This picture shows the dowel in place through the two angled holes

 
This picture shows the Sphinx fitted with the Mizzen, Main, and Fore mast dowels on place along with the bowsprit dowel. I have also sanded the laser char from all the forecastle beams which have now been glued in place.

 
The forecastle deck pattern was then dry fitted. The edges did not require too much sanding to get a good fit.
 
To ensure the forecastle deck properly positioned during the sanding process you will note that the bitts, mast and stove chimney were positioned as the deck was added to the deck. The deck is only dry fitted at the moment.

 

 
I repeat the process with the quarterdeck pattern, using the mizzen mast and capstan dowel to aid the correct alignment of the quarterdeck deck

 

 
Finally a picture of the Sphinx with the decks in place along with all the masts and bowsprit.

Thanks for all likes and comments and particular to Håkan. We are many who like 1:64 scale. When building a large ship like Agamemnon it is a nice trad-off between detailing and physical size.
 
And now some pictures of this weeks progress. I have been working on the channels and the final detailing of the stern gallery (starboard side). Starboard side is almost finished.
 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

The Deck
As seen in my last post I have made and painted most of the deck furniture. I elected not to paint anything black and instead spent a lot of time removing char so that some could be left natural with just a single coat of WOP. Some of the pretty boxwood deserved not to be painted over.
 

 
I tried to draw a balance between what was red and what is natural, try as I might I couldn’t remove a satisfactory amount of char from the winch, so red it became. It had its own challenges besides that, one of the small resin ‘axels’ broke off so I had to replace it with a bit of brass rod, after it was assembled the other side broke, that I just had to glue. I’m sure it was my fault but in my opinion the resin winch would be less of a wench wth a brass rod all the way through for stability, the thin plastic is a tad fragile. (PS: don’t tell my wife I borrowed one of her sushi serving dishes).
 

 
As I assembled the pumps it dawned on me there was no way for the water to drain as it is presented in the instructions. So I drilled a hole in the side the dowel about a third of the way in. After drilling a hole in the center of a smaller dowel and painting the inside Admiralty Paints Ironworks Black (left rough on purpose) plus a brush of weathering powder I cut it to a few millimeters and inserted that into the drilled hole - and now water can flow across the deck. Of course I added weathering power to the metal parts after painting them Ironworks Black. Once I had them fitted to the deck I stopped short of gluing them in. Looking ahead to the rigging diagrams I noted there are a number of ropes passing through and belayed around the winch and main bits. Those would be difficult to access working around the pumps, so I’ll pull them out and glue them in once the rigging in that area is complete.
 

 
With everything made it was time to complete the deck work, first up was the port battery. It’s a little bit amazing I used everything in this photo to build 14 of the tiny little cannon shown sitting in the middle. A production line of sorts and a great deal of patience is required to make these little dudes. As small as they are they take the same steps as a larger version, just less to hold on to, along with various tools and jigs.
 

 
As I noted in the earlier post, for the starboard battery I used commercial eyebolts and rings on the cannon and the kit provided PE versions on the bulwarks. Again I rigged the breaching ropes off the ship, first making them with a jig, then attaching one to each cannon. I glued the cannon to the deck and then the breaching rope to the bulwarks in that order. Again apologies to Derek for any part I played in his rigging the gun tackle on his Speedy, no way would I attempt that on this model. The barrels first were primed with black and the weathering powder added before assembly. I also weathered the trunnions after bending them on my little jig, then adding them to the carriages. One installed I used my soft weathering brushes to buff up the barrels. The resin barrels in the kit are so much nicer than the old brass or cast metal versions, they have nice detail and finish up easily. Definitely a major upgrade.
 
 

 
 

 
With that the deck is complete. I didn’t get out the cameral or lighting gear for this, just an off-white cloth, my work lights, and my iPhone 12 Pro. While it takes pretty decent photos it did create a lot of white balance problems with my off-white cloth. So anyway, here are some quick and basic photos.
 

 
The stern, with a visit from Admiral Cochrane.
 

The bow and midships. I had a bit of trouble with the chimney. This is a folding piece of brass PE, which is nice as long as you fold it the right way, I didn’t and ended up with a piece broken off which I glued back on with CA. I painted it Ironworks Black on top of the black primer and added weathering powder. I use Rusty Brown almost always as I did here (the name is misleading given the effect), however for fun I coated the inside and top edge of the chimney Smokey Black rather thickly and didn’t buff it. It came out kinda nice and provides an excellent touch of detail to the deck.
 

 

 
And midship. Here you can see I used 8mm belaying pins from Crafty Sailor. Unlike most commercial wood belaying pins these are much more in scale, they come in multiple lengths, I may could have gone down a millimeter, but this length will come in handy once rigging begins.
 
The last step for the deck is the channels, strops, and deadeyes, and that’s up next.  Thank you for stopping by, for the likes, and especially the comments.  Until next time…

Hi Allan,
I'm not sure I understand your question. I think I'm reading the plans correctly, but maybe I'm missing something.
 
At the moment all of the gunport linings are flush with the first layer of planking. It appears to me, if I'm reading the plans correctly, that for the ports with lids, the second layer of planking should be cut shy of the edge of the linings by 1 mm or 3/64" on all four sides. This leaves a "recess" or a lip on all four sides that is the depth of the second planking and the width of the lining - both are about 1 mm or 3/64"

 

 
It appears to me that the lid is simply placed against the upper lip.
 
And, of course, for the ports that have no lids, the second layer of planking is made flush with the inner edges of the linings.
 

 
Do I have this right, or am I missing something.
Thanks,
David

Here are 4 whale boats at various stages of completion. 

I mentioned in another post that a nearby fellow model builder asked me if I'd like to take on a partially built Agamemnon that his late father had started, but was unable to complete. I am happy to be the recipient of such a great kit. All the work that has been done on it is first rate, so it's just a matter of moving forward; nothing to be re-done. I'm really honoured that Peter Rumgay, a very skilled modeller, has entrusted me with his dad's unfinished project.
 
I going to work on this kit simultaneously with my Speedy project. I've never worked on more than one project at a time before, and so far I'm enjoying the process. The key for me was getting properly set up and slightly changing my modus operandi. In the past, (mostly through laziness) I usually had too much stuff piled on my workbench, so it looked like a hoarder's workbench, sometimes to the point of leaving only the tiniest workspace. That just wouldn't work this time, so I have cleared it completely. Fortunately I have a lot of room in my shop so I set up two separate tables, apart from my workbench, and have one table dedicated to each kit, including plans and all parts. and just move over from the table the immediate things I need at any given time and then move them back. This makes it very easy to switch projects and keep everything organized. I should have been this organized all along.
 
Here's the model as I received it.
 

 
It would appear that the first order of business for me is the second layer of planking and I've made a start.
 

 

 
I'm thankful for the other Agamemnon builders on the forum. I've been studying their build logs and I know I'll be turning to them again and again as I work through this very large undertaking.
 
David
 

I don’t think this is where they go:


 
After a week of watching our grandkids while their parents were out of town and then finally getting back in the field for my photography with a week in the Smoky Mountains, both weeks great fun, I got back to Flirt. Each small item takes time to do right. Removing char, especially for items I’m leaving natural boxwood, takes time. There are some very tiny parts involved. 
 
Before I mount all the completed deck furniture I have to install the port guns. I’ve put it off as long as I can. 
 
After that I’ll complete the hull with the channels. Yay. 
 
Thanks for stopping by. 

Here's the little jig I made to hold the 1mm planking. The two strips in the foreground are 1/8" high and the two behind are 1/16" high.
David

I have a soft spot in my heart for this kit because it was my first build and my introduction to this great hobby. I think it is one of the best introductory models there is. Pretty much everything you will encounter in larger and/or more complex models is here, just smaller and simpler. ie double planking but not too big a hull, cannons to rig, but only a few; rigging, including yards and ratlines, but not too much with only one mast, etc. etc.
I used Bob Hunt's practicum for this model too, and I found it to be invaluable. Of all his practicums, this one is by far the best and should be of real help to you. With this model, along with the longboat under your belt, you will be well launched.
David

I mentioned in another post that a nearby fellow model builder asked me if I'd like to take on a partially built Agamemnon that his late father had started, but was unable to complete. I am happy to be the recipient of such a great kit. All the work that has been done on it is first rate, so it's just a matter of moving forward; nothing to be re-done. I'm really honoured that Peter Rumgay, a very skilled modeller, has entrusted me with his dad's unfinished project.
 
I going to work on this kit simultaneously with my Speedy project. I've never worked on more than one project at a time before, and so far I'm enjoying the process. The key for me was getting properly set up and slightly changing my modus operandi. In the past, (mostly through laziness) I usually had too much stuff piled on my workbench, so it looked like a hoarder's workbench, sometimes to the point of leaving only the tiniest workspace. That just wouldn't work this time, so I have cleared it completely. Fortunately I have a lot of room in my shop so I set up two separate tables, apart from my workbench, and have one table dedicated to each kit, including plans and all parts. and just move over from the table the immediate things I need at any given time and then move them back. This makes it very easy to switch projects and keep everything organized. I should have been this organized all along.
 
Here's the model as I received it.
 

 
It would appear that the first order of business for me is the second layer of planking and I've made a start.
 

 

 
I'm thankful for the other Agamemnon builders on the forum. I've been studying their build logs and I know I'll be turning to them again and again as I work through this very large undertaking.
 
David
 

I have a soft spot in my heart for this kit because it was my first build and my introduction to this great hobby. I think it is one of the best introductory models there is. Pretty much everything you will encounter in larger and/or more complex models is here, just smaller and simpler. ie double planking but not too big a hull, cannons to rig, but only a few; rigging, including yards and ratlines, but not too much with only one mast, etc. etc.
I used Bob Hunt's practicum for this model too, and I found it to be invaluable. Of all his practicums, this one is by far the best and should be of real help to you. With this model, along with the longboat under your belt, you will be well launched.
David

I mentioned in another post that a nearby fellow model builder asked me if I'd like to take on a partially built Agamemnon that his late father had started, but was unable to complete. I am happy to be the recipient of such a great kit. All the work that has been done on it is first rate, so it's just a matter of moving forward; nothing to be re-done. I'm really honoured that Peter Rumgay, a very skilled modeller, has entrusted me with his dad's unfinished project.
 
I going to work on this kit simultaneously with my Speedy project. I've never worked on more than one project at a time before, and so far I'm enjoying the process. The key for me was getting properly set up and slightly changing my modus operandi. In the past, (mostly through laziness) I usually had too much stuff piled on my workbench, so it looked like a hoarder's workbench, sometimes to the point of leaving only the tiniest workspace. That just wouldn't work this time, so I have cleared it completely. Fortunately I have a lot of room in my shop so I set up two separate tables, apart from my workbench, and have one table dedicated to each kit, including plans and all parts. and just move over from the table the immediate things I need at any given time and then move them back. This makes it very easy to switch projects and keep everything organized. I should have been this organized all along.
 
Here's the model as I received it.
 

 
It would appear that the first order of business for me is the second layer of planking and I've made a start.
 

 

 
I'm thankful for the other Agamemnon builders on the forum. I've been studying their build logs and I know I'll be turning to them again and again as I work through this very large undertaking.
 
David
 

I have a soft spot in my heart for this kit because it was my first build and my introduction to this great hobby. I think it is one of the best introductory models there is. Pretty much everything you will encounter in larger and/or more complex models is here, just smaller and simpler. ie double planking but not too big a hull, cannons to rig, but only a few; rigging, including yards and ratlines, but not too much with only one mast, etc. etc.
I used Bob Hunt's practicum for this model too, and I found it to be invaluable. Of all his practicums, this one is by far the best and should be of real help to you. With this model, along with the longboat under your belt, you will be well launched.
David

David, My late father started Agamemnon at age 92 and he enjoyed every minute he spent building it.I know he would be thrilled that your going to complete  the model and that it is in such capable hands. We should all be so lucky to be in the ship yard at that age . Hope you enjoy it as much as he did.

I mentioned in another post that a nearby fellow model builder asked me if I'd like to take on a partially built Agamemnon that his late father had started, but was unable to complete. I am happy to be the recipient of such a great kit. All the work that has been done on it is first rate, so it's just a matter of moving forward; nothing to be re-done. I'm really honoured that Peter Rumgay, a very skilled modeller, has entrusted me with his dad's unfinished project.
 
I going to work on this kit simultaneously with my Speedy project. I've never worked on more than one project at a time before, and so far I'm enjoying the process. The key for me was getting properly set up and slightly changing my modus operandi. In the past, (mostly through laziness) I usually had too much stuff piled on my workbench, so it looked like a hoarder's workbench, sometimes to the point of leaving only the tiniest workspace. That just wouldn't work this time, so I have cleared it completely. Fortunately I have a lot of room in my shop so I set up two separate tables, apart from my workbench, and have one table dedicated to each kit, including plans and all parts. and just move over from the table the immediate things I need at any given time and then move them back. This makes it very easy to switch projects and keep everything organized. I should have been this organized all along.
 
Here's the model as I received it.
 

 
It would appear that the first order of business for me is the second layer of planking and I've made a start.
 

 

 
I'm thankful for the other Agamemnon builders on the forum. I've been studying their build logs and I know I'll be turning to them again and again as I work through this very large undertaking.
 
David
 

I mentioned in another post that a nearby fellow model builder asked me if I'd like to take on a partially built Agamemnon that his late father had started, but was unable to complete. I am happy to be the recipient of such a great kit. All the work that has been done on it is first rate, so it's just a matter of moving forward; nothing to be re-done. I'm really honoured that Peter Rumgay, a very skilled modeller, has entrusted me with his dad's unfinished project.
 
I going to work on this kit simultaneously with my Speedy project. I've never worked on more than one project at a time before, and so far I'm enjoying the process. The key for me was getting properly set up and slightly changing my modus operandi. In the past, (mostly through laziness) I usually had too much stuff piled on my workbench, so it looked like a hoarder's workbench, sometimes to the point of leaving only the tiniest workspace. That just wouldn't work this time, so I have cleared it completely. Fortunately I have a lot of room in my shop so I set up two separate tables, apart from my workbench, and have one table dedicated to each kit, including plans and all parts. and just move over from the table the immediate things I need at any given time and then move them back. This makes it very easy to switch projects and keep everything organized. I should have been this organized all along.
 
Here's the model as I received it.
 

 
It would appear that the first order of business for me is the second layer of planking and I've made a start.
 

 

 
I'm thankful for the other Agamemnon builders on the forum. I've been studying their build logs and I know I'll be turning to them again and again as I work through this very large undertaking.
 
David
 

I have a soft spot in my heart for this kit because it was my first build and my introduction to this great hobby. I think it is one of the best introductory models there is. Pretty much everything you will encounter in larger and/or more complex models is here, just smaller and simpler. ie double planking but not too big a hull, cannons to rig, but only a few; rigging, including yards and ratlines, but not too much with only one mast, etc. etc.
I used Bob Hunt's practicum for this model too, and I found it to be invaluable. Of all his practicums, this one is by far the best and should be of real help to you. With this model, along with the longboat under your belt, you will be well launched.
David

Here's the little jig I made to hold the 1mm planking. The two strips in the foreground are 1/8" high and the two behind are 1/16" high.
David

Here's the little jig I made to hold the 1mm planking. The two strips in the foreground are 1/8" high and the two behind are 1/16" high.
David

Alright its time to stop watching other people's builds and contribute something.  This is my second model ship and I am following in what seems to me to be the Traditional Pathway.  I started with Model Shipway's/Chuck's 18th Century longboat which took a LOT longer than I had planned but turned out ok; I will post a few pics soon.  Bending the planking was challenging.  Now I am starting on the AVS.  I also purchased Robert Hunt's practicum and have been following its directions somewhat.  Chuck's Cheerful directions are also very helpful.
 
First the obligatory picture of the box
 
I read a comment a while ago on this forum where it was stated that dark woods made the ships look like Old Furniture.  And I completely agree.  So I am trying to make the second layer of planking on my AVS in Holly.  The first layer of basswood will be good practice in planking.  First step was removing the laser char on the center keel.  I tried using a fence attached to my hand plane which made sure it was square.  But I found it somewhat awkward.  Also I couldn't get the picture to not be turned sideways, sorry I'll keep working on that.

 

 

I am determined to improve my planking skills with this build, so have been trying a couple of experiments with the first layer. 
 
I tried my hand at two of Chuck's suggestions - the first was spiling and the second edge bending with an iron. The spiling works well in that it certainly solves the problem of the planks tending to "step" at the bow. However, it presents its own set of challenges and it needs some wider stock to work with. I tried one spiled plank on the port side, but no need for a picture of it - it's a bit rough and once you see it, you won't be able to "un-see" it. I don't want to ruin anyone's day.
 
However, the iron method works really well and is pretty much foolproof. I bought a cheap iron ($21.99) and set up an ironing station.
 

 
The hold-down is important, because without it, it's still possible for the plank to "buckle." With the hold-down, it works very smoothly.
 

 
And here is the plank in position -

 
I am now a convert to this method. I'm expecting it to be especially helpful for the second layer. In the past I have sometimes found the second layer more difficult and frustrating because if the plank doesn't lay perfectly flat, the glue doesn't hold and sanding results in gaps. I think this is going to improve things for me considerably.
 
Thanks for checking in.
David
 

I've made a little more progress on the Speedy. It is impossible to overstate how perfectly the pieces fit together and what a pleasure they are to work with.
I added the upper sub-deck which popped into place beautifully. Fairing the hull seemed a relatively easy chore. The mdf is a lot nicer to work with than plywood and with the lower deck and upper sub-deck in place, which essentially serve as guides, it was hard to go too far wrong. I did get a little over zealous on the the second to last bullkhead when I pre-sanded it before its installation. I had to fix it with a thin strip.

 

 
The gunport strips were causing me a lot of anxiety, because I knew that they can be a bit tricky and I've never built a model that uses them before. However, the job wasn't too bad and again, I think it is because they are so perfectly designed and cut to fit.
 
Like almost everyone else, I had a small bit of wrinkling with the bow sections,  but nothing that can't be easily fixed with some sanding.

 

 
The two sides meet up really well with the the two stern pieces. I needed a very small amount of sanding on the port side and just a tad more sanding on the starboard, side.

 
Gunport strips installed -

 
First strip of planking added -
You can see the two spots where there was a little wrinkling and I've done some "experimental" sanding. It isn't fully sanded at this point, of course, but I just wanted to discover if it could be easily sanded out and I believe it can be.

 
I have a new tool - a miniature block plane from Lee Valley.

 
It's hard to tell from the picture, but this thing is small; just 2 1/2" long and 3/4" wide. I intend to use it to taper planks and to bevel their inner edges. I used it on the one plank I've installed so far and it worked very nicely; especially for beveling the edge.
 
That's my update for now. Thanks for looking in, comments, and "likes."
David
 
 
 
 
 

Good Morning,
It's been a while since I have been active in the forum, but that doesn't mean I haven't been active in my workshop. I have just finished my second Bluenose model, this one for my daughter. I didn't do a build log for it as it would be virtually identical to my first one.

 

 
I ordered and receive the Speedy for my next project, but it no sooner arrived that I got a call from my near-by fellow ship modeller, Peter, who asked me if I would like to take on an Agamemnon. It had been his late father's who had started it, but been unable to finish it. Peter already had other things on his model-building plate, and since this particular type and era of vessel is not his chief area of interest, he thought it might appeal to me. He was right, however it is a pretty daunting project.
 
The first planking is finished, the gunports are framed, the framework for the stern installed and the lower deck is planked. Everything to this  point is beautifully done; I hope it isn't downhill from here. I will soon start a separate build log for this project.

 
 
For the first time ever, I have two projects at once. I think I may work on them simultaneously. The idea of being able to move back and forth as the spirit moves me has some appeal.
 
So with all that preamble over, here is my work on the Speedy so far. I have to admit that I am approaching this build log with a great deal of trepidation. There is some pretty impressive work out there and the bar has been set very high.
 
I almost can't believe how precisely the parts have been cut - they fit together perfectly.
 
I did a little pre-beveling on the first and last bulkheads.

 
Notwithstanding the shiny bright finish on the deck of my Bluenose, for these naval vessels, I always prefer a grey finish. I've noticed that not too many others finish their decks that way, but I tend to like them. I wasn't sure how it would work on the etched deck of this model, but fortunately I was able to experiment on the lower deck which is almost completely unseen.
 
I use artists' acrylic paint and make a very thin wash of gray, tempered with some yellow and/or brown. It worked quite well with this etched deck. The lines between the planks show up just the right amount. In a few spots the wash had overfilled the lines, so I ran a razor blade along them very lightly and it worked beautifully.
 
I think I have just a bit too much yellow in my gray mix on this lower deck. For the upper deck, I'll make the colour just a bit grayer. It was great having this "practice" deck to work on.

 

 
That's it for now.
Thanks,
David