GuntherMT

I completed the middle level of the standing rigging as well as all of the standing rigging for the mizzen. I hope to complete the standing rigging tomorrow. I still need to tension most of the lines and dress them. So progress is being made. She is getting big now. Funny how adding lines to the tops of the mast start to make her shape up.
 
 

Okay, I think I'm done for the night.
 

I've made some progress......  finally!
In post #22, I made adjustments and increased the height of the hull, but it was not enough, so I increased the hull height by another 1/16".   This interior planking is closer to the SoD than the kit.  Since I didn't drop the height of the cockpit floor, I made a couple of adjustments, to give the hull the appearance of being higher.  

 
When I extended the length of the foredeck, I forgot to take into consideration the spacing of the false frames.  But all is well as the spacing in the cockpit worked out almost perfectly.  I was lucky this time!   

 
The main thwart covers the seam in the cockpit planking.  The top of the thwart still needs to be painted.   

 
Waterways are not part of the kit, but they are a nice bit of detail.  On the foredeck, the added height helped with the visibility of the false frames.  Still need to add one more inner planking board, the cap rail and splash water.  But with the added height, I now need to increase the height of the bow stem so I'll have room for the iron band for the bowsprit. 

 
The mast thwart, knees and splash board are courtesy of Starbucks coffee stir sticks.  The port side knee turned out fabulous, the starboard side not so well and needs a drop of filler.  I added the knees after the thwart was installed.  In hindsight, I should have made the knees with the thwart and installed them as one unit.  The splash board will be reduced in height.

 
Frames on the transom are a bit uneven, but once I add more parts, it should be less noticeable 

 
Next up is adding the cap rail  The cap rail will sit on a base of four layers of planking / framing that is 3/16" wide.  I'll also start working on the rudder. 
 
Thanks for stopping by.  Your thoughts, questions and comments are welcome.
 
Have a great weekend! 
 
Dee Dee

This morning I shaped and put in the stern post.  With all the planking on the transom area had to cut a notch in it to fit vs trying to sand down all them thick planks and making the transom weak.
 

you can see I marked the keel where I would cut it off to make it flush with the stern post.
 

 
You can also see that it's just this stern corner of the keel and stern post where the planking doesn't fit right to the keel.  The rest of the keel it fits rather nicely.
 

 
Is a small gap at the top of the stern post which I will fix with a little filler.
 
This work has been doing a number on the finish and paint of the bulworks and gunwails, again, even with some varnish on it.  So while I'm sanding the planking and keel, the gunwails and bulworks will get sanded for refinishing again as well.
 
The bow is another matter,  looks like over the night the rubber band tension must have been enough to make it 'slide' just enough to leave a small gap in between the bow stem and keel.  Also made the distance from the gunwail down to the bow stem less that I need ( to have room for the bowsprit), so I'll have to fill the gap and trim the top of the bow stem.  Also will have to do some trimming and shaping of the bottom of the bow stem to fall in line with the rest of the keel line.
 

 
After filing and sanding I take some angle measurements off the plans for the bowsprit and compare that to the top of the bow stem so I don't get too much of an angle on the bowsprit when it gets installed later.  Just ended up needing some minor filing to get it to a good angle.
 

 
Also started on pre-bending the bottom fenders.
 

 
Like the hull planking, I think for the most part the keel is done except more refinement on filing and sanding and then fixing where the planking meets the corner of the keel and stern post, so I'm calling this section done.
 
End Section A.11
 
Only have a few construction parts left for Section A.  Drill out holes for the Rudder, Bowsprit put in channel supports and bottom bumper and then install the rudder.
The rest should be sanding filing and then finish work.  May be a good idea to drill out the holes for the for the anchor ropes ( C.1.4) while I'm drilling other holes to get them out of the way as well.

Greetings all
Well here I go with my second build, which was not my chosen build. My chosen ship was the Pegasus by Victory models after following blue ensigns cracking build. I received the pegasus for my birthday in July and was ready to start the build on the completion of my first build. The Admiral was chatting to a friend who came to visit and was telling her about my late father who built lots of model ships, and saying how clever he was. She said to her friend the last two ships he built were galleons and and he built them side by side. She turned to me and said I don't want you to build that ship you have now, I want you to build a galleon. So after looking at the kits on CMB and photos she along with her friend decided the Royal Caroline was nice. It was not worth arguing so I am now building the Royal Galleon Caroline. I made a start a few weeks ago and have just started the first planking, and things are going ok. And at the minute this will be a straight foward build, but we will see what's what when the planking is completed. There are some really cracking builds going on here with all you enthusiastics, so I should not be lost for advice or help if needed. Well here we go we are off and running. Here's a few photos of my Galleon. DAVID

The lower mast shrouds, ratlines, futtock shrouds, and the catharpins have been completed, also the main part of the bowsprit has been set onto the hull and rigged plus the gammoning has been done, also the rigging at the bow, for the main stay and the preventer stay.
I am now in the process of making the stays,the mouse being the most awkward part to make,I tried tapering some wooded dowel drilling and threading them onto the rope but found serving over them did not work out well, so I am making them by tying thread around the rope, thick first and tapering with thinner rope, coating with PVA and serving,and then serving again when the whole stay is served,they are much smoother that they look in the photos.

This past week, Our Hero hath continued to work on the various detail items to be included.
And here, he hath madeth a list:

 
Indeed, just this very day he didst PhotoShop a tick unto the top o' the list upon his return from the faraway land of Nippon where he didst journey to learn the ancient secrets of sword forging.
 
“I shalt not repeateth myself here,” CaptainSteve was heard to mutter. “For I hath detailed in the Kit-Basher’s forum me method fer making these."
So, please, clicketh here to check it out.
 
Now, as we know, Mr Bligh was not the most personable of people. Indeed, ‘tis known that even amongst the loyalists in the Launch with him, only a handful of men could be relied upon. Thusly, Our Hero hast reasoned that Bligh would’ve been certain to keep all the weapons onboard within easy reach.
 
“Hence I shalt most probably be placing the four cutlasses (and two native spears) that hath been documented up Bligh’s end of the Launch,” CaptainSteve didst explain.
 
Re-visiting the tool-chest, for now, three of the cutlasses have been lazily placed inside.
 
“Thee final one couldst well be chopped into the edge of one of the rear benches,” our Hero didst suggest. “Mayhaps next to where ol’ Bligh hisself be sitting.”

Thanks Nigel .
Bowsprit is attached to the hull. A few pictures of the gammoning and rack-blocks. .

Been having a few computer problems so took a few pics as i went along .As i thought the most of the bow had to be rebuilt using the ply parts as a guide 
 

 

Afew bits and pieces copied from the ply parts supplied


 

 

 

 

 
the extra pieces shown in the final 2 pics are only dryfitted and will not be added for safety reasons untill later in the build 

 

 
 

Here is a couple of updated photos as she sits today.

Hi all,
I have the pintle and gudgeons finished and the pins are holding in the pintle... I am pleased about that.
 

 
I have formed the eye bolts for the pendants
 

 
But I am not sure how to size the eye bolt.  I looked through the practicum but could not find the section that shows setting up the pendants to the rudder.  Might just be these old eyes are not too good at refocusing after using the magnifiers.
 
Can anyone give me the page number where it is described in Chuck's practicum. I would like to see the parts involved before I attach anything to the rudder.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007
 
I have made a lot of work in these days but, unfortunately, it is not so visible. It was concentrated on a lot of very small items. The rudder. Painting and mounting a lot of guns on their carriage, building and mounting some kind of containers for the iron balls, gun ports, and over all, I'm painting with transparent matt enamel the hull.
So, I don't have interesting pictures to show.
 
I've made also some researches about the ship and I have found some interesting pictures. I've discovered that my model doesn't match completely with the attached plans. I know that the vessel was rebuild several times, so, most probably, there is not a "right" plan or a "right" model. Or at least I hope, otherwise .....
 

 

 

 

 

Chapter 18: Port hole doors and false canon
 
The larboard side is complete, all hands to starboard!
 

Some more work done today.  I know I didn't follow any planking method on this, I'm painting the hull and I'd rather spend the focused hull work time on a hull that I will just stain or varnish when all the wood work will be visible.  So with this one its more about getting a smooth hull.
 

 

 
Basically the work was the same as the first planking except I tried to get less pieces and more full strakes in.  That and these planks were much nicer to work with as they didn't need any pre-bending.  Surprised that being nearly 30 years old they were very flexible.  Did one sanding and some filing around the stern to get the transom planking to start blending to the hull planks.  
 
Except for more sanding ( which will be an on going part) that should end section A.10 
 
Afraid the planks were more flexible than me.  The accident that everyone usually has once every model, where you catch your breath for that split second and...
 

 
....hope it didn't cut anything off on its way down.
 
Section A.11
 
After picking the knife back up, getting a soda and a smoke ( or two) continued on by sanding down the planks along the bottom edge of the false keel.  Instructions say to plane towards the point but that would put an edge on it like the bow and a big stick for the keel won't fit on the keel right.  instead I planed, filed and sanded it flush.  
 
Then took the bow stem, sized it which mine didn't need any cutting shorter, just notch out for the Cut water reinforcements then V channeled the inner surface and a few filing and sanding tweaks to get it to fit.  I decided to V notch it instead of planing the bow.
 

 
I sand down the Keel piece file the surface that will butt up against the Bow Stem, then glue and clamp/rubber band it all down.  I'll put in the stern post after this has thoroughly dried.
 

(want that bow stem to fit on good)
 
Also did a little more on the cabins.  While the side walls and the roof top will be planked, the side and bottom surfaces of the roof are bare.  So decided to paint them the cream color.  With just varnishing the planking, that should help the wood finish stand out more.  Also started on the door planking.
 

The line between the dead eyes is called the 'laniard' (old spelling, presumably just lanyard now).  The seizing is where a small rope is wrapped around a larger rope in order to secure it.

So I'm progressing with a single coat of red paint on the bulwarks each day, but I'm an impatient sort (I'm sure nobody has noticed that by now) so I've decided to start working on the outer planking while still working on the bulwark paint.
 
I started with the black strake, which the kit provides walnut strips to make.  Luckily, the walnut in this size is actually pretty nice and easily worked and not all splintery, so I inked it after carefully cutting the piece to length and shaping both ends, and placed this key component on each side.  Prior to actually gluing, I clamped some scrap of the same walnut stock in place along the gun ports and used that to do some final sanding of the lower port sills so that they would match the top of the black strake.
 

 
The photo showing the wale and black strake at the stem came out blurry, so I'll probably take another one later, but I'm really happy with how evenly they came out, and how sharp the match with the stem is.  The photo of the other side at the stern where it mates with the fashion piece came out blurry too.
 
I sealed the black strake and wale with a coat of wipe on poly after they were in place, and hopefully this will protect it a bit from my antics as I work on the planking above and below them.
 
I also got a delivery in the mail today - a drawplate from Jim Byrnes.   So of course I had to play with it, and made a few tree nails out of maple, and holly.  The green box is maple at .031", and the blue is holly at .031".  I am having a very difficult time getting tree nails smaller than the .029 drawplate hole, so if I chose to use real tree nails they would pretty much have to be .031 holes.  I really like the holly appearance, as the edges are quite sharp, and the color is the most subdued of all the real wood nails I've made, but they appear too large and out of scale to me.  In addition, the holly was very difficult to draw, I kept breaking the wood, so it would be a huge pain to make enough holly tree nails to do the entire deck.
 

 
In the end I'm probably going to go with the newer wood filler in .028, and try to do a neater job than the test planking when I'm doing the hole drilling and then shaving of the deck after the filler has dried in order to get a crisper edge on them.

So I'm progressing with a single coat of red paint on the bulwarks each day, but I'm an impatient sort (I'm sure nobody has noticed that by now) so I've decided to start working on the outer planking while still working on the bulwark paint.
 
I started with the black strake, which the kit provides walnut strips to make.  Luckily, the walnut in this size is actually pretty nice and easily worked and not all splintery, so I inked it after carefully cutting the piece to length and shaping both ends, and placed this key component on each side.  Prior to actually gluing, I clamped some scrap of the same walnut stock in place along the gun ports and used that to do some final sanding of the lower port sills so that they would match the top of the black strake.
 

 
The photo showing the wale and black strake at the stem came out blurry, so I'll probably take another one later, but I'm really happy with how evenly they came out, and how sharp the match with the stem is.  The photo of the other side at the stern where it mates with the fashion piece came out blurry too.
 
I sealed the black strake and wale with a coat of wipe on poly after they were in place, and hopefully this will protect it a bit from my antics as I work on the planking above and below them.
 
I also got a delivery in the mail today - a drawplate from Jim Byrnes.   So of course I had to play with it, and made a few tree nails out of maple, and holly.  The green box is maple at .031", and the blue is holly at .031".  I am having a very difficult time getting tree nails smaller than the .029 drawplate hole, so if I chose to use real tree nails they would pretty much have to be .031 holes.  I really like the holly appearance, as the edges are quite sharp, and the color is the most subdued of all the real wood nails I've made, but they appear too large and out of scale to me.  In addition, the holly was very difficult to draw, I kept breaking the wood, so it would be a huge pain to make enough holly tree nails to do the entire deck.
 

 
In the end I'm probably going to go with the newer wood filler in .028, and try to do a neater job than the test planking when I'm doing the hole drilling and then shaving of the deck after the filler has dried in order to get a crisper edge on them.

So I'm progressing with a single coat of red paint on the bulwarks each day, but I'm an impatient sort (I'm sure nobody has noticed that by now) so I've decided to start working on the outer planking while still working on the bulwark paint.
 
I started with the black strake, which the kit provides walnut strips to make.  Luckily, the walnut in this size is actually pretty nice and easily worked and not all splintery, so I inked it after carefully cutting the piece to length and shaping both ends, and placed this key component on each side.  Prior to actually gluing, I clamped some scrap of the same walnut stock in place along the gun ports and used that to do some final sanding of the lower port sills so that they would match the top of the black strake.
 

 
The photo showing the wale and black strake at the stem came out blurry, so I'll probably take another one later, but I'm really happy with how evenly they came out, and how sharp the match with the stem is.  The photo of the other side at the stern where it mates with the fashion piece came out blurry too.
 
I sealed the black strake and wale with a coat of wipe on poly after they were in place, and hopefully this will protect it a bit from my antics as I work on the planking above and below them.
 
I also got a delivery in the mail today - a drawplate from Jim Byrnes.   So of course I had to play with it, and made a few tree nails out of maple, and holly.  The green box is maple at .031", and the blue is holly at .031".  I am having a very difficult time getting tree nails smaller than the .029 drawplate hole, so if I chose to use real tree nails they would pretty much have to be .031 holes.  I really like the holly appearance, as the edges are quite sharp, and the color is the most subdued of all the real wood nails I've made, but they appear too large and out of scale to me.  In addition, the holly was very difficult to draw, I kept breaking the wood, so it would be a huge pain to make enough holly tree nails to do the entire deck.
 

 
In the end I'm probably going to go with the newer wood filler in .028, and try to do a neater job than the test planking when I'm doing the hole drilling and then shaving of the deck after the filler has dried in order to get a crisper edge on them.

This is an anti-spam thing I read elsewhere on the forum, to keep junk accounts from posting links to whatever it is they were trying to link to.  I think 10 is all you need to lift that, and it looks like you've achieved that mark, so you should be able to edit your sig now.

My kit came in tonight.  Here are a couple of shots of the contents.  I'm going to be studying the intructions and plans tonight, and then tomorrow I hope to get to the hardware store to get the stuff I need to get my work area properly set up. 
 

 
 
And of course, as soon as I got things laid out for a better view, the cat had to plop down in the middle of it...
 

 
I'll post some more pics once I get things underway. 

Thanks, I have also adopted a similar naming scheme.
 
I have also taken the time to update all of the previous posts so that they now use the Model Ship World forums instead of Photobucket.

The line between the dead eyes is called the 'laniard' (old spelling, presumably just lanyard now).  The seizing is where a small rope is wrapped around a larger rope in order to secure it.

Lesson learned. When I was installing the channels I focused on where the front edges of the channels mounted according to the plans. What I should have been focused on was where the notches in the channels were and aligned according to those along with the cannon ports. As a result of this, the aft most channels were installed about ⅝" to far forward. This resulted in the rear canons being obstructed by the rigging. This became especially apparent after I ran the additional stays to the channels. 
 
I thought about this overnight and what could be done. If there had been room in the channels I could have cut new slots for the shrouds but there was not. There were only two possibilities. I live with this and hope no one notices. This would have been assisted by the whaleboats since they would have been mounted over the obstructed cannons, thus not easy to see unless you look down on the level of the cannon, or 2nd, I tear off the channel and move them in to the correct position. I chose the later. 
 
To remove the channels, I unlaced all the lanyards and taped the shrouds to keep them untangled. I took an exacto knife and cut along the hull at the rear of the channel to keep the paint from chipping. Then I took a pair of needle nose and carefully bent the channel up and down until it came free. I used a wood chisel to remove the forward part of channel support since it would no longer be under the channel, then I epoxied the channels back in their new position. Luckily I only had to remove one of the chain plates and move it aft on each side.
 
I touched up the paint and let everything harden for a couple of hours. Then I replaced the shrouds and stays. Below are photos of one of the channels after removing it, and after the repair.

Thanks for your comment, it's a pleasure for me . . Jack.
 
Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007
 
Here is a sequence of images of the starboard side, fore and aft.
 
The activity here performed was the installation of the gun frames, made of (I believe) anodyzed aluminium, in the quarterdeck.
 
I had to adapt the gunport holes with a file but the result is very satisfactory.
 
In the first photo, the green circle in the extreme right higlights the square hole ready for the istallation of the cathead.
 
I had to use the cyanacrylate. It's the only glue useful in this situation: fast, clean and strong.
 
The real work will start in the underneath decks !!!! Here the frames are different and I have to adapt many holes to align them to the wales.
I made some trials and the proper tool is the Dremel with a milling cutter and a lot of patience.
I also think that before proceeding with the frames installation it should be better to paint the area with some coats of transparent paint. Also a coat of black in the refined holes. In this latter case I will need some days to complete this task and resume the frames.
 
 

 

 

 

So I'm progressing with a single coat of red paint on the bulwarks each day, but I'm an impatient sort (I'm sure nobody has noticed that by now) so I've decided to start working on the outer planking while still working on the bulwark paint.
 
I started with the black strake, which the kit provides walnut strips to make.  Luckily, the walnut in this size is actually pretty nice and easily worked and not all splintery, so I inked it after carefully cutting the piece to length and shaping both ends, and placed this key component on each side.  Prior to actually gluing, I clamped some scrap of the same walnut stock in place along the gun ports and used that to do some final sanding of the lower port sills so that they would match the top of the black strake.
 

 
The photo showing the wale and black strake at the stem came out blurry, so I'll probably take another one later, but I'm really happy with how evenly they came out, and how sharp the match with the stem is.  The photo of the other side at the stern where it mates with the fashion piece came out blurry too.
 
I sealed the black strake and wale with a coat of wipe on poly after they were in place, and hopefully this will protect it a bit from my antics as I work on the planking above and below them.
 
I also got a delivery in the mail today - a drawplate from Jim Byrnes.   So of course I had to play with it, and made a few tree nails out of maple, and holly.  The green box is maple at .031", and the blue is holly at .031".  I am having a very difficult time getting tree nails smaller than the .029 drawplate hole, so if I chose to use real tree nails they would pretty much have to be .031 holes.  I really like the holly appearance, as the edges are quite sharp, and the color is the most subdued of all the real wood nails I've made, but they appear too large and out of scale to me.  In addition, the holly was very difficult to draw, I kept breaking the wood, so it would be a huge pain to make enough holly tree nails to do the entire deck.
 

 
In the end I'm probably going to go with the newer wood filler in .028, and try to do a neater job than the test planking when I'm doing the hole drilling and then shaving of the deck after the filler has dried in order to get a crisper edge on them.