GuntherMT

Lots of stuff arriving this morning! Just had another 30 Speedy kits worth of resin cannon, this time in black resin (Alert black cannon arriving Wednesday)
 
Also included is a resin casting for the domed canopy sample for the third kit. There was no way I was going to assume the customer would want to make this part out of wood. It was likely copper anyway.

I just had another batch of laser cut parts for Speedy arrive, this time the premium version with basswood laser cut sheets, and they look very nice.
 
Also, I had a sample set of the Alert complete laser cut parts for a top end version of Alert. I made minor changes to some parts, and the deck is now moved to 0.8mm plywood, and the wooden parts are now in pearwood. I added a couple of pics of the Alert samples, one with all of the sheets, and another with the changes.

Just took a couple of pics of what's inside the box. This is Master Shipwright kit number 9, and is just awaiting the photo etched parts to be added, so when they arrive, they can be shipped immediately.
Because everything is protected in bags, I included what cannot be seen again. (Main component parts).
I should find a clear fittings tray, to show off the blocks, cannons etc. but they are all in that little box, quite safe..

I've had the exact same experience with ME.  No response to my issue and then a few days later a package shows up on the front doorstep with replacement parts.
 
If they could close up their communications gap issue, they would probably never get a complaint of any kind!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 322 – Running Rigging Home Stretch
 
After almost 6 years living and breathing Young America, I can finally see the end in sight.  Another day or two should see the last lines run and, thankfully, the last rope coils hung.  From there it is just a matter of tidying up. 
 
Rigging the yard braces has been interesting and enjoyable work.  The first picture shows the bracing of the lower three yards on the foremast completed.
 

 Braces for the double topsail sails and the fore course were added once there was no further need to get my hands in the space over the cabin – at least that is what I thought.  Braces were installed working from top to bottom to keep the lower deck area open – the opposite sequence to all other yard rigging.  The falls for these braces run through lead blocks on the main rail amidships as shown in the next picture. 
 
 
The lines are then belayed on the main rail.  This opening in the main rail, that replaced the original small entryway, was probably added a year or so after launch when the double topsails were adopted.  The entryway was moved aft.
 
Aft of the mainmast things begin to get more interesting.  The next picture may be a clue.
 
 
Upper main braces run aft to lead blocks on the mizzen, while all the mizzen braces run forward to the mainmast before descending to the deck.  This is a bit of an access nightmare.  The next picture shows the area behind the main masthead where the mizzen topsail braces converge, the uppers to pendants shackled to eyebolts in the cap, the lowers to eyebolts and blocks under the top.
 
 
Unfortunately I had neglected to install the shackled eyebolts in the cap, so the cap and band had to be drilled and the shackled eyebolts inserted between all this rigging.  I hate to admit this.
 
The main upper and lower topsail braces presented an interesting problem that took me about a week to resolve.  These and the main braces run aft to blocks on the boomkin and thence to the poop deck.  This is pretty much standard clipper practice, and quite evident in the two YA photos.  These lines each consist of a yard pendant, a running part that runs from the throat of the mizzen topmast stay through the pendant block, the running end of this is seized to a single block.  The falls run through this block to lead blocks on the boomkin.  This arrangement is fairly straightforward, except that there is major interference between these lines and the lower mizzen braces that run forward from their yardarms to the main mast.  These would also interfere with the mizzen lower sail when set – a lesser problem.  Various arrangements were tested.  I finally settled on the solution Underhill describes in his book, which involves moving the mizzen lower braces inboard on the yard,  allowing the main topsail braces to run clear outboard of these. The relocated crojack braces may be seen in the next photo.
 
 
The main topsail yards are in the upper right corner but the lines are hard to follow in this picture.  The next picture may help.
 
 
The arrows U and L point to the blocks at the end of the brace running parts for the upper and lower yards respectively.  The arrow at the yard points to the relocated crojack brace block.  The eye for this has to be on top of the yard so the block will be over the jackstay where it will not interfere with the sail.  The arrow at the lower left points to the standing end of the lower brace fall where it is seized to #4 chainplate.  The upper fall is seized to chainplate #1 to the right.  The next picture shows the lead blocks for the two braces at the boomkin and their belaying cleats on deck.  The fall of the main brace will run through a third block at the outer end of the boomkin.
 
 
The next picture shows the falls running to the boomkin blocks on the port side. 
 
 
This solution is consistent with the photos of the ship and has some documentary support, so I am quite comfortable with it.  It leaves the issue of interference with a lower mizzen sail, but I suspect that could be tolerated or circumvented when that sail was used.
 
The last picture shows the cutter slung inboard on the davits, finally, after 3 years in a box. 
 
 
The picture shows the next, and perhaps the last remaining rigging riddle: what to do with the crojack, sheets, tacks and lazy tacks.  In the picture the latter two are belayed under the boat, awaiting a more acceptable solution for these idled lines.  Next time for that – and for the main yard braces that are still left off for access.  Then tidying up.
 
 
Ed
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 323 – Wrapping Up
 
Finally, 99.999% means complete.  Since the last post it has been a lot of little chores: snipping rope ends, the last few rope coils, touching up with paint, waxing standing rigging lines, clean up, etc.  Some of the "major" chores are described below.
 
The first picture shows the final disposition of the crojack sheets and tacks.  These were simply allowed to hang free from the clue garnet blocks with their full lengths coiled on deck.  They were tied down to one of the beams under the pile of rope coils to keep them vertical and straight..
 

 
The main braces could finally be run, since access was no longer needed to the deck area between the main and mizzen masts.  The next picture shows the starboard brace pendant shackled to the outer boomkin eye.
 

 
The fall of the brace runs from the yard pendant through the lead block on the rail in the center of the picture, then to a deck cleat.  The other blocks on the boomkin are the upper and lower main topsail braces.  Two missing eyebolts still need to be fitted on the rail. The picture also shows the completion of another chore left over from the volume II work, fitting chains to support the boomkins.  The next picture shows both of these.
 

 
The next picture shows the starboard swinging boom, the lower studding sail boom,  being lashed to the fore channel brackets. 
 
 
The alternative would be to store these on the skid beams over the cabin, but this seemed more appropriate, since in port these were often used to moor ships' boats.
 
The next picture shows the model with the dust case removed in the relatively cleaned-up workshop.
 

 
Finally, launch.
 

Please excuse the amateur artwork.  Couldn't resist.
 
Ed

Well. it would be an understatement to say I am overwhelmed by all these most generous comments.  It is also nice to hear from those who have been regular but silent followers.  I wish I could individually  thank everyone for the more than 35 comments and 50+ likes after the last post.  Every one of them is well appreciated.  Perhaps one more photo would not be amiss.
 

Thanks again, everyone, for all your support throughout the project.
 
Ed
 
 

It is, and I am glad I insisted on them using one of my files, rather than their own which would bare no real resemblance to what I need the machine for. That is the difference between an 80W laser (top pic) at half the price of the narrower beamed 40W machine (bottom pic).
 
I did forget to add the retention tabs to each part, though, which is why some bits are missing, nothing to keep them in place once cut...

Yesterday I had a couple of samples of laser cutting from a sample file I gave the company and 1.5mm pearwood I also supplied. I want a certain high spec laser machine, recommended to me by someone who already has one. The company that sells them asked what the machine will be used for. (80% cutting and 20% engraving). He recommended a cheaper version, can you tell which is the cheaper version from the samples (or did they over-egg it as a ruse...). Clearly, the 'Nuclear' option is out of the question, so it seems I will go for my first choice and what was initially recommended to me, which suits perfectly the type of work I want it to do. It will be quite an investment, but I really do feel that I need one, looking forward.
 
As I mentioned, I have ordered a LOT of pearwood sheet from Germany, which should arrive in the next couple of weeks. For my third kit, I am erring on having only one quality option, pearwood laser cut parts and pearwood second planking, with cast resin decoration for figurehead and stern and cannon, and laser engraved deck planking. Also, as I have mentioned, I shall be having 15 Alert kits done by the UK laser company with pearwood laser cut parts, a 0.8mm ply sub deck (kit will still have boxwood deck planking) and cannons in black resin. I shall have one sample kit ready next week, so I can check it over. Price will be £220 with the different materials and resin cannon. Ultimately, I want all kits to have the same quality parts and materials, and it seems that the combination of pearwood laser sheets and pearwood second planking, together with quality castings is what most want (I would too, to be honest).

Maybe this is for an Administrator...Why is Crown Timberyard  still on the advertiser list on the side panel?  They've been out of business for some time.  Even if they paid for a year in advance, it is awkward to send someone there only to find out there is no there there.
Maury

Thanks a lot for your comments!  
It is becoming increasingly difficult to clamp. Soon it would be a time to try the CA+PVA trick (using CA spots to fix the plank, while the PVA wood glue is setting).

And some magic tricks that a Hahn jig allows you to do  I love it more and more, it is so easy to position the hull on an angle when planking, avoiding glue drips and just generally orienting things the way you need. The key is to have a vice that can hold an entire jig. 

Congratulations on the new addition to the family Mike, and nice continuing work on the ship too!

I will pull the text I wrote for Speedy page:
 
There are three versions of the kit to choose from, but all have the following features:

14 sets of laser cut materials, including a laser cut and engraved deck

7 separate photo etched sheets in brass and copper

Copper plates for hull below waterline

18' Cutter
Double planking in limewood and a choice of second planking woods highlighted below

Walnut dowel for masts and yards

10 separate rigging thread sizes in black and natural

14 cast resin 4-Pouunder cannon and 20 cast resin half-Pounder swivel cannon

Cast resin 1:64 scale figure of Lord Cochrane himself

60-page full colour building manual and 10 sheets of 50x70cm plan sets

Two cradles, one for when building and a clear acetate display cradle for the competed model

All other materials and fittings required to build the model as shown.


 
The version differences are:

Standard – Laser cut MDF, 0.8mm ply and basswood parts and high-quality Tanganyika strip for second planking. - £225

Premium – As above but pearwood strip for the second planking. - £245


 
Master Shipwright Edition (Limited to 20 numbered kits) – £340

As above but with boxwood second planking

Pearwood laser cut parts instead of basswood

Machined pearwood block and deadeyes (Master Korabel blocks and deadeyes)

The book Cochrane the Dauntless: The Life and Adventures of Admiral Thomas Cochrane, 1775-1860 Paperback by David Cordingly, which contains a whole chapter relating to Cochrane and the Speedy.


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
These are the initial release versions and, because I am being very fussy with the laser cutting, the initial releases have all the cutting done in the UK (but at much higher cost), so I will only have 19 Master Shipwright (pear laser) kits and 15 standard/premium (basswood laser) kits upon release. I receive the 15 laser cut sets for Speedy in MDF, 0.8mm ply and basswood from my UK supplier on Monday (Quite literally just paid for that order over the phone, after just being told the parts are ready to ship). I am just waiting for production PE parts from Italy, which are being done now and expect my courier to pick them up either next Friday or the week after at the latest.
I will open the Speedy for pre order soon, as everything else for the Speedy kit is with me and I am happy with the parts, and I know the PE is being done after I gave the go ahead yesterday morning once I checked them over (production samples).
 

My yard, spar & stun'sl  production line

Yes, I have 10 sets arriving next Tuesday, followed by another 30 sets the week after, and will be on sale separate from the kit.

And here is the new 6-pounder Alert cannon, cast in black resin, which I will be receiving in the next few days.

Right, I had the sample photo etch and laser cut parts from Italy arrive yesterday. I wanted samples because I needed to be sure the production parts for Speedy are all as I want them. There was a problem with one of the PE parts when building the prototype, which has now been fully rectified, so have given the go-ahead for the production PE sets, which should be with me by the end of next week.
 
The laser cut parts I am still not entirely happy with, and have asked them to rectify the problems I highlight or not do any. In the meantime, I have 20 full sets for the special pearwood version of the kit and another 15 sets arriving on Tuesday for the basswood version, all laser cut in the UK. This is the reason I wanted to wait, as I want to make sure I am happy with everything in the kit box.
 
Essentially, I have everything I need apart from the production PE parts, which will be with me next week. (although technically, I do have one full kit set as the sample parts for the PE are great)
 
I know I said end of October/early November, but the Italians took a lot longer than I anticipated, and I did insist on seeing sample parts for me to double check before entering production. 

Bob Friedman, the owner of SeaWatch Books is hospitalized.  He is getting better and expects to be home sometime this week.  Please be patient if you have placed orders or sent emails to SeaWatch recently.  Bob will be able to answer emails and process orders soon.  He asks that you be patient and that he will answer emails and process orders ASAP.
Thanks,
Kurt

Congratulations on the new addition to the family Mike, and nice continuing work on the ship too!

Congratulations on the new addition to the family Mike, and nice continuing work on the ship too!

Construction progress is not so fast, for a good reason - we got a second daughter a month ago (yay!). Everything goes well so far, we are a lucky parents and Daria (the youngest) helps us a lot. But, as expected, there is little time for anything... Though I still sneak a plank every now and then, so it is moving with a pace faster than zero, one streak per week on average! Each plank takes from 1hr (for a simple straight planks midship) to 2-3hrs (curved ones with difficult shapes). Sometimes a plank goes to waste, so overall it is not a fast process.
It is a nice to get a bit of your own time and work on a model, even late at night. Makes for a good photos  

 
Back to the build progress. Got quite comfortable with heat bending, pretty low error rate. But I still feel that the plank made this way is more brittle than the one shaped with steam. Luckily it is not a big issue.

Since I did a bad job in fairing, there are some low spots that are fixed by adding a filler underneath the plank:

Or chiseling away the high spots:

 



 
Slow but steady, I passed the equator - 7 streaks done (plus limber streak), 6 remaining!
Nothing is sanded yet, and considering bad fairing I expect to spend a lot of time scraping and sanding to make the planks look smooth and fair. There are a lot of glue traces, they would be cleaned up after treenailing.
I'm glad I started with internal planking - it is a good training exercise, that would be barely visible on a finished model, hidden under all decks and cabins. Hope to get enough skill to do a better job on external planking  Consider this a practice piece.

I've had the exact same experience with ME.  No response to my issue and then a few days later a package shows up on the front doorstep with replacement parts.
 
If they could close up their communications gap issue, they would probably never get a complaint of any kind!

I've had the exact same experience with ME.  No response to my issue and then a few days later a package shows up on the front doorstep with replacement parts.
 
If they could close up their communications gap issue, they would probably never get a complaint of any kind!

I've had the exact same experience with ME.  No response to my issue and then a few days later a package shows up on the front doorstep with replacement parts.
 
If they could close up their communications gap issue, they would probably never get a complaint of any kind!

I've had the exact same experience with ME.  No response to my issue and then a few days later a package shows up on the front doorstep with replacement parts.
 
If they could close up their communications gap issue, they would probably never get a complaint of any kind!