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Ryland Craze

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  1. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to dvm27 in Echo by dvm27 - Cross Section   
    Echo update #8 is completed and posted on our website http://www.admiraltymodels.com. My version below shows the stock framing package on the port side and the fully fitted out version in progress on the starboard side.. Please keep in mind when ordering the framing package that it is the complete framing only. The fitting out instructions are free of charge and posted on our website every few months. We are hoping to develop and sell a fitting out package in the near future complete with laser cut deck beams, gun carriage and other details. Stay tuned.
     




     
  2. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to wilnatp in Hannah by wilnatp - Amati - BOTTLE   
    Final details on the deck house. 

     
    Attached the deck house and installed the cannon. 

     
    Prepared the winch. Used CA to glue thread onto the ends and wrapped the thread. I substituted the kit white thread for black cotton sewing thread. Same diameter but I like the black better. 


     
    Next up is attaching the winch to the deck - FORWARD of the mast step. This isn't accurate to the original, but necessary for the mast to be lowered far enough to fit into the bottle. I played around with a few ways of leaving the winch unglued and thus movable so that it could be glued in aft of the mast after insertion, but there wasn't enough slack in the anchor lines. 
     
    Keel was glued into place (with a lot less sticking out below the hull). 
     
    And then anchors were attached to the catheads.
     
    Now you're caught up. I am waiting for Brass Black to arrive in the post so that I can blacken the yards and masts. I don't want to pain them as I am nervous that the coverage will either be too thin or too think and interfere with the raising ceremony. 
     
  3. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to BRiddoch in Higaki Kaisen by BRiddoch - FINISHED - Woody Joe - 1/72 scale - SMALL   
    Started planking the upper deck.  Leaving openings in places to see into below deck areas.
     
                Bob R.




  4. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Pasi Ahopelto in Rattlesnake 1781 by Pasi Ahopelto - Scale 1:48 - U.S. privateer from Harold Hahn plans   
    Lower mizzen mast is similar to other lower masts, except smaller, so wont repeat myself with in-progress photos. Anyway what I have now mast and spar-wise:

     
    If you take a look at mast steps, then you'll see that they all are offset to left (if viewed from back). It tells that deck-keel alignment is off by few mm. I think it's visible only now, but becomes unnoticeable once the correction disappears under the deck. One benefit of making fully planked hull
     
    Let's see: mizzen top mast, main top and top gallant masts, fore top and top gallant masts, mizzen yard and mizzen top yard, main yard, main top yard, main top gallant yard, fore yard and top gallant yard are missing. Also trestle trees, details (nails), etc need to be made.
  5. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Pasi Ahopelto in Rattlesnake 1781 by Pasi Ahopelto - Scale 1:48 - U.S. privateer from Harold Hahn plans   
    Only two pictures this time, but finishing the cheecks is simple operation compared to hounds and what's below them.
     

    First upper parts of cheeks on sides of mast head (not sure of actual name). The width tapers slightly towards top, but thickness remains the same (a bit under 2 mm -- half of the hounds).
     

    Sides glued, leveled to mast head width. I shaped tenon for mast cap with a file and scalpel.
  6. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Pasi Ahopelto in Rattlesnake 1781 by Pasi Ahopelto - Scale 1:48 - U.S. privateer from Harold Hahn plans   
    Hi Sam, it's Veritas plane. If remember correctly, it's their "block plane". I'm quite fond of their plane designs, blade adjustments are easy, etc.
     
    Last week I had lower fore mast squared and tapered to dimensions, and will continue from there.
     

    Mast is upside down. Top section will remain square, and anything below will be round. First step was to cut small notches to prevent any wood splits taking part of the top square with it. I'd like to use plane, but there isn't room for it here, so starting with scalpel.
     

    Here I'm making lower part of mast roughly octagonal.
     

    And shaping it round with sanding block.
     

    Next step was to cut mast's sides to accomodate cheeks. The cheeks cover about two thirds of mast's length and thicken towards top of mast. Top side is ready, lower side shows what will be removed: the top's thickness will be reduced to about one third.
     

    This is where cheek's lower end will be.
     

    And checking that the surface runs true length-wise. This shows welll how thin the very top ended up.
     
     

    Cutting mortice at mast's bottom.
     

    There's mortice for mast inside hull, but I don't remember its dimensions so using modelling wax to check what's in there...
     

    And finally checking that the mast is at correct angle (took some tweaking with tenon, but looks OK to me now).
  7. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to jct in 18th Century Longboat by jct - FINISHED - Model Shipways - mod moved   
    Hi everyone,
    The gaff and boom were prepared and mounted to the mast and the chains and deadeyes installed, also served the two shrouds.
     
    The work on making and mounting the sails continued, after they were stained and hemmed I decided to sew on the bolt rope...I now have a new respect for those who use needle and thread!   I lost track of how many times I stabbed myself and getting the stitches close in size and shape proved a real challenge.  I think next time I do sails the bolt ropes will be glued on!
     
    As I said in my first post I wanted billowing sails... to accomplish that I borrowed a tip from Hubert Sicard's Dummies site and clipped the sails to a fan turned on full, this filled them out nicely.  I  then painted them with a solution of diluted white glue...three coats were applied allowing each to dry before the application of the next.   Worked very well. 
     
    There will be three sails total but only two, the jib and main will be raised and full...the inner jib will be furled or stowed, haven't decided which yet
     
    Hanks were made from 28 gauge wire and installed on the jib through pre-punched holes...then back to stitching to lace the boom and gaff to the main sail.  Well that's were she rests at this point, next the mast will be stepped and the rigging started.   THX for your interest and time...Pics follow
    J








  8. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to cg451 in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW   
    Boyd,
     
    Although this is not a current thread, when I saw it (and the associated replies to your inquiry) I felt one more opinion wouldn't hurt. My background is Irish, so I know what it means to be frugal. That also means when we purchase something we should buy the best we can afford to do the task at hand (and in the future) instead of buying "cheap" and struggling with the inadequacies of the underpowered, inaccurate, and junk-like item.
     
    My goal is scratch building, and one of my passions (almost 50 years now) is building furniture. My shop is populated with all the needed equipment, and I know each tool intimately--along with its strengths and limitations. The Byrnes tools are superb quality, and they fill the gap between my furniture-making tools and my scalpel. Do I appreciate and use my Byrnes tools? Absolutely! Do I wish I'd not spent the funds for them? Absolutely not! Every day in the shop is an opportunity to use one of these magnificent tools and smile broadly at the quality of work I'm able to produce with them.
     
    We Irish must stick together , and I hope the above helps you in your decision making.
     
    Bill
  9. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to BobF in 18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club   
    Here are some photos of the completed cockpit area and the thwart that supports the mast.  Some changes to the cockpit were based on photos of contemporary models.  Apparently, it was quite common for these craft to have additional bracing on the interior side of the transom.  Here is one such model.

    If you look closely, you can see a metal plate in the notch that would have supported the anchor davit.  This makes sense since the davit probably exerted considerable stress on the transom while working with the ship's anchor.  Here's my interpretation of that photo:


    No modifications to the thwart were made, other than the fact that I substituted boxwood belaying pins for those supplied with the kit.



    Some of the thwarts have not been glued in place yet.  I placed them in position for these photos.  I think the additional room will help with the installation of the windlass, which is next.
    BobF
  10. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48   
    Few more details added as I continue to put off cutting the tapered planks for the poop deck.  
     
    Added the bottom molding and the door handles and hinges for the quarterdeck wall.
     

     
    It's amazing how terrible the unfinished wood can look in macro photographs.
  11. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48   
    Small update.  As most of you have seen, I got a bit distracted by a canoe, and also lots of work, so I haven't had much time to sit down and do any sort of real work on the AVS, but tonight I did get the quarterdeck wall mostly done.  It still needs to be finished and have details added, but the wood is in.
     
    I am again using cherry for the door paneling.  I do not have the base trim in yet either.
     

  12. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Timothy Wood in 80' ELCO PT Boat by Timothy Wood - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1/4" = 1'   
    I hope to get a coat of paint on them this weekend! 
  13. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype   
    Just finished planking the port side.  I added the stern post.   Now to treenail the port side and add the molding...   It feels good to have it all planked.  It will feel even better when the treenailing is done.   I was getting tired of seeing the hull without its stern post.  I think it really makes a difference at this point.   At least from the starboard side.
     

     

     

     

     

  14. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to jct in 18th Century Longboat by jct - FINISHED - Model Shipways - mod moved   
    Hello everyone,
    another update...I ended up gluing up some of the leftovers from the kit and turning a new main mast...came out better then I had hoped it would, after that all the masts and spars were drilled for the false sheaves, brass was bent, soldered, and blacken and everything painted.
      I turned my attention to the sails...laid out the sail pattern on an old cotton pillow sheet that the wife donated, just set it on top of the plans and penciled them out, I decided to pencil the seams in as opposed to stitching them for a few reasons...In this scale the stitches would be to large and I don't know my way around a sewing machine and I couldn't talk my better half into doing them  
    They'll get dyed with old coffee sometime this week, I'll probably spin up some bolt rope on the ropewalk.
    That's it for now Pics follow, as always thanks for your interest
    J













  15. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to rameyke in US Brig Syren by rameyke - Model Shipways   
    I just received my first order of boxwood from Jason at Crown Timberyards.  Let me thank Jason for the fast turnaround on my order.  It arrived just in time.  I am almost done sanding and shaping the stern and am hoping to start laying down some planking on the upper bulwarks. 
     
    At the time, i bought all that Jason had in the sizes I need.  Jason, if you are reading this.  Thanks, and I will be ordering more wood very soon.  I gotta say, this stuff is nice!  The strips are super smooth and not a bit of fuz on them. 
     
    I am glad I read others experience and recommendations of boxwood for my Syren.
  16. Like
  17. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Maury S in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Maury S - 1:48 - POB   
    Sills fairing is done on the outside.  One warning.  I did not remove all the pattern paper from the face of the bulkheads before gluing in the sills.  That creates a weak joint and a few failed under the stress of sanding.  Make sure the pattern is removed before gluing.  I started to fair the top of the bulkheads that create the deck beams.  There were some low spots in the back, so I glued on some 1/32" basswood strips and then faired the deck before I add the stern pieces.
    Maury



  18. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed   
    I've now made, mounted and rigged the spritsail and sprit topsail yards. The yards themselves were easy, since they are round in section throughout and only required tapering before adding the yard and arm cleats. I pre- rigged the yards by adding the halliard block, parrel, lifts and braces before mounting them on the pins previously set in the bowsprit and jibboom. 
     
    The parrels were then completed and the halliards and lifts were led through their respective blocks/thimbles and back to the bow pinrail, where they were tied off and separate rope coils added.The braces were led back through the the blocks under the fore top (an incredibly fiddly job), but won't be tied off until sometime during the fore mast rigging. The last task was to complete the rigging of the jibboom  and flying jibboom guys by leading them through eyebolts on the yards back to blocks and tackles at the bows that were tied off on the pinrail and coils added.
     
    Next will be the foremast yards and rigging.
     
    Bob







  19. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Matrim in 18th century longboat by Matrim - FINISHED   
    Bulkheads are up though considering the amount of contact between them and the keel I suspect movement would be possible without much force (which may prove useful if I knock anything out when sanding the bulkheads, plus there are a couple I am not quite certain if they are exactly where I want them..)
     

     

  20. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Nirvana in 18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48   
    So I did a cover paint job with the first line, this paint comes easily off.
    Saw the line way to low.
    This is painted and then adjusted line.

    And this with a white base before sanding and painting white color.

     
  21. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Tadeusz43 in Art of period shipbuilding   
    Hi,
    This time, something has gone wrong
    Often accident occurred when the experience failed as it was in the case of the sinking of the warship Vasa and the Mary Rose and Kronan.
     
    http://faculty.up.edu/lulay/failure/vasacasestudy.pdf
    http://self.gutenberg.org/article/WHEBN0002187141/Kronan%20%28ship%29
    http://www.maryrose.org/discover-our-collection/story-of-the-ship/why-did-the-mary-rose-sink/
     
    Kronan sinking
     

     
    Vasa sinking
     

     
    Mary Rose sinking
     

     
     
    Tadeusz
  22. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Tadeusz43 in Art of period shipbuilding   
    Hi,
    Art of shipbuilding.
    Due to the lack of scientific methods of calculation and design of ships
    ship building in the old days was a kind of art and everything depended on the experience of employee master of shipbuilding.
    Gathered here from my archive of photos from various museums showing how ships were built centuries ago.
    A few photos from the net is because old shipyards are still in the Navy possession  or a ban on photographing in some museums.
    Project.
    Construction of a new ship ordered by the King was preceded by a performance of the model to the Admiralty can assess whether the project meets its requirements. Many of such models have survived to our time, they show the details of construction of the hull, we call it The Admiralty Models.
    Because in those days there were no scientific method stability calculations all based on the experience of masters of shipbuilding.
     
    Admiralty models
     

     

     

     
    Assembly of Admiralty
     

     

     

     

     

     
     
    Tadeusz
  23. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to Maury S in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Maury S - 1:48 - POB   
    More work on the port sills.  The sills require beveling in two dimensions.  The ends have to be mitered (sides) so they fit between the bulkhead uppers, but they need an additional bevel in vertical plane where the sill rises following the shear.  I use a Miter Sander.  It comes with three sanding blocks with angles from 0 to 8 degrees.  Here I'm putting a 4 degree bevel on one end of a sill.  The other side gets a similar bevel on the opposite edge so they are parallel.  They get inserted between the uppers following the new modified reference lines drawn on the bulkhead uppers.  You can see the grain on the boxwood, which is a big disappointment with the quality of wood I got from Lumberyard.  It won't matter in this spot, but where it's visible, I'm going to go to with Crown for my next buy.
    Maury



  24. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to P_Budzik in I just put up my latetest videos on Airbrushing...   
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2_YEoGunu0
     
     

     
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6gI9ljJsdo
     
    Paul
  25. Like
    Ryland Craze reacted to BobF in 18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club   
    Hello all,
     
    Pulled the longboat out of mothballs, and started working on it again.  Although all the thwarts are finished, I'm going to leave those off that are on either side of the windlass until after the windlass is installed.

    I noticed that the cockpit seats on NMM longboats have scribing all the way around their inner edge, so I thought I'd try it.

    This caused the thwart at the forward end of the cockpit to have a rather strange shape, which took a while to configure.

    The scribed lines didn't line up perfectly, but I really didn't want to do them over again.

    I decided to embellish the support straps that hold the mast bracket in place.  I drilled three #80 holes in each strap, and inserted pieces of brass wire to simulate mounting bolts.  Since they are so small, I decided to leave them bright, so they could be seen.

    I still need to mount the belaying pins, so this thwart has not been glued in place.

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