Ryland Craze

Any interest out there in a build log for another Tamiya 1/12th scale F1 car?

Happy Memorial Day all.  Here in Delaware it is, once again, raining.  A good excuse to plunge into my next project - the main deck hatch coaming. 
 
I haven't built anything like this before.  My Robert Hunt practicum shows 2 ways to make it- the default is with butt joints and looks straightforward.  Those with a bit more confidence could do mitered joints.  Hmmm...
 
But then I happened on a picture in Grant Walker's Volume 3 and it all went to heck.

Mitered half-lapped joints?   sweet.  The George Stockwell coamings above are lower, whereas the one I'm attempting to make are tall and tapering but I thought I could figure it out. 
 
Right from the outset I was having trouble visualizing what the joint pieces would look like.  My cartoons mostly confused me even more and looking at them now I realize I initially added an extra butt joint.  Even with revisions I was still not clearly visualizing the joints and especially how to make them.

The coaming is supposed to stick up 1/4" above the deck, and my deck planking will be 3/64" thick, so my wood stock will be 1/4" + 3/64" = whatever that adds up to.  I wanted some of the butt joint to be visible above the decking so I decided to extend it 7/64" high and start the taper a 64th above.  This was a lot of thinking and measuring with calipers and math.
 
Below is my first test pieces, made from the kit's limewood.  These were not measured and only served to help me visualize the shape of the joints.  I glued various pieces of stock wood together; there wasn't an exact match in the kit.  I also have the hand powered Ultimation Sander (which works very well) and I used it to make the 45 degree miters on the short pieces (left) below.  It can't be used for the long pieces (right) below as the butt joint part of the coaming stick out.

The practicum and the pictures in Grant Walker's book both show the endgrain of the butt joint being oriented fore-aft so thats what I did as well.
 
Miters are challenging at any scale; I needed to cheat, so I made some jigs.  The sections in David Anscherl's and Greg Herbert's various book about making lites was very helpful.  I am still making test pieces here and I didn't take pictures of every step but I will do a better job with the actual holly stock.
 
Below I glued 2 pieces of rectangular wood to my board and put 2 pieces of thin strip below the test stock to raise it up so exactly 7/64" stuck up out of the jig.  Some walnut wedges kept it from shifting.  I had used my smallest square and a scalpel previously to incise the edges of the butt joint; then I used the edge of my chisel held flat on the jig to incise a fine line on both sides which defined the rest of the butt joint.  Then I gradually chiseled out the waste.  This made a very square and flat joint.

As before these test pieces are made up of several glued up smaller pieces.
 
Below you can see my miter jig.  I clamped the long piece of coaming to the jig and holding a flat chisel against the jig used it to cut the miters.  I didn't take pics of this process but I will next time.
 

and here's another pic of the joint

All good so far.  I glued it together with yellow glue mixed with a little graphite, same as I have previously done on my scarf joints. 

And finally I drew some lines with my compass marking out the taper and first chiseled then refined the coaming's taper with sanding sticks.  The camera kept insisting my fingers were more interesting than the wood joint I was holding, sorry about that.
 

 
And there is my ever first mitered butt joint.  Next up is preparing my holly stock and doing it for real.
 
Thanks for reading
 
Cisco
 

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.
 

Empennage is done. I can't give this kit high marks for number and quality of diagrams, not for sufficiency of internal structure. I had to muddle through the former and scratch-build some of the latter, but it turned out okay, I think.
 

 

 

Thank you Chuck, it was the elegant sheer that attracted me to the model. Overall it is a thing of beauty.
 
Post 20
In continuation.

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The re-made bow Breasthook/knee has been glued into place, I think I’ve got a close fit.

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I have continued to clean up the woodwork prior to applying a coat of w-o-p.
 
With w-o-p applied to the frames and inner boarding it is time to consider paint.
As with the Queen Anne Barge I will be using Vallejo acrylics.

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For that build I used Flat Red for the Barge paintwork.
The uniforms for the Royal Company of Watermen were of a brighter hue.
 

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Before I committed to the paint shade I compared the likely Vallejo options.
I think Flat Red (top option) still has the edge so I’ll stick with that.

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A first coat of thinned paint is applied, the first of several, and a first opportunity for the paint to reveal where areas need attention.

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On with the show.
 
B.E.
27/05/2024
 

I wired up some LED's with 0,03 mm coated wire and tested for half an houher to be sure the wires did not get hot.

 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

Hey Robb, yeah I was concerned about that. I made sure it was a pretty loose fit before paint. Fingers crossed!🤞 

Brush painting, I believe, is a skill that is developed over time through trial and error.  In my experience the key to a good brushed finish is to apply several thin coats of paint to let the paint level out between applications.  A good quality brush, such as an artist's brush also contributes to success.  If the paint applied is too thick, it won't level out properly.  Are you using acrylics?  I've read that some modelers use actual artists' acrylics from the tube because the pigment is ground finer.  I've had good luck brushing Tamiya acrylics thinned with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  Your pram is coming along nicely.  Don't sweat the mistakes.  They are inevitable and an opportunity to learn what does and does not work.  
 
Stay the course and enjoy the journey.  Sometimes I have to remind myself that we build models for enjoyment.  Carry on!  Keep up the good work.
 
 

Close-up photography is the enemy of being satisfied with a job well done -- it highlights a wealth of tiny mistakes that no one will notice at normal viewing distances. I have to remind myself of this fact all the time.

Thanks guys, topic now moved.

Is there some kind of typo here or some kind of humor? ❔
 

 

 
 

Considering earlier discussion it should easily fall within 1501-1750.

There was a French 1st rate Le Fulminant built at Rochefort Dockyard 1691.
 
B.E.
 
 

So now all those detail pieces are painted and mounted.  Pictures below are five of the area around the large superstructure stern turret, and five of the area around the bow turret.  There are two more large turrets aft and fore of these respectively, yet to be built.
 
The little winders are finished with thread to represent rope.  On the sides you will also see paravanes.  I was not aware that large ships like the Bismarck had paravanes to do their own minesweeping, but apparently so.
 
Regards,
David

Thanks for the warm welcome everybody!

Thanks Ab, I've got something to look for now!

As to your second question:
In 2000 I published a book called 'De schepen van Abel Tasman' at Verloren Publishers (www.Verloren.nl), both in Dutch and in German and English especially for model builders. The Dutch version was sold out long ago, but probably you can get it second hands somewhere. A lot of what you need can be found in the book.

Thanks for the compliment Marcel.
I sent you a PM with the Dutch version. Too big to post here.
Good luck.
Ab

Post 4
The launch is completed.
 
The only modification to the provided kit is a replacement for the rudder.
I have also added the following:-
Lifting rings to the keelson.
A cap square for the mast
A brass etch grapnel from the Indy kit.
A turning bar to the windlass.
I have also utilised the boat chocks from the Indy kit to support the hull.
This has been an enjoyable little project and I am pleased with the result.

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2287a

2290a

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2296a

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Below is a comparison with the wooden 24’ Launch I made for Sphinx.

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Both versions in my opinion look good and I think they represent the best available options at this scale.
 
The Resin/wood combo is a good match and almost fools the eye into thinking the whole is a wooden construction.
For those who may prefer to avoid the time and frustrations that can arise building the wooden versions, they are an excellent choice.
 
The wood versions have a slight edge for build match with the Main ship medium, and perhaps give a greater satisfaction in successfully completing these tricky little kits.
 
I don’t think I would mix resin and wood boats on the same build, but I am happy to consider either to enhance the ship kits.
 
You pays your money and takes your choice.
 
 
B.E.
26/05/2024
 

I'm seeing the dents. I’m getting most of them out. I’m able to bend the planks well with water. They hold there shape well, it’s the curve of the frame I’m struggling with. 13-1 it’s laying down nice so far. I’ve tried the heat, I can’t get the plank to stay bent/shaped. I’m struggling with the pieces staying springy. I can get some areas great and others spring up. I’m getting better with each plank. Maybe I’m not getting the plank hot enough. With the water I can break the structure of the wood and can’t feel it go limp. Kinda like a wet noodle. It becomes very ply able. Then I use heat to set the curve. I’m not able to reproduce your results with heat only, my lack of skill for sure. 
 

Pre-bending with heat and even wetting down the plank a bit using a hair dryer is the better way to go.  Force bending it dry makes it so much tougher to get a nice fit.   You will also get lots of dents and imperfections with all of those pins.   
 

The sides of the middle part of the wooden deck were finished by adding the Pontos brass strips and a fine wooden strip. The brass strips were layed between the wood veneer, and not on it. Thus no unevenness was created .  The shute covers were also glued in their place with PVA-glue.
 

 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

Thanks for the kind words and likes.  When photographing a couple weeks of work it doesn't really look like I made much progress!  I attached the rest of the cleats to the bulwarks, drilled all the holes for the cannon eyebolts, formed the 60 or so eyebolts needed, and then made and attached the side pin rails.  When attaching the eyebolts, I only glued in the top ones, and left the lower ones off.  I made a jig out of styrene to get the holes in the bulwarks consistent.  And being a perfectionist, the forming of the eyebolts themselves wound up taking some time.
 
I had a question regarding the inboard bulwark ladders for you Cheerful builders.  The instructions say, "You will find the template on the plans to cut the sides for the ladder.  But just to make life easier, print the next page as all of the elements are provided".  None of the 3 plan sheets have a template for the sides of the ladder.  And I'm not sure what the print the next page reference means.  There are no plans for the ladders in the written instructions either.  Does anyone happen to have a plan that shows the side shape of the ladder?  I guess I can make a good guess based on photos of the ladder pieces shown in Chuck's instructions, but it would be a little easier if I had a template to reference/print.
 
While still working on the Cheerful almost daily, my progress has slowed down a fair amount.  With the warmer weather and longer days, there's lots to do outside, so the path forward on the build will be a bit slower while I enjoy the summer.
 
Erik

That is a cant frame....its in chapter two....
 
Its cant frame #12 which is a half frame under the aft gunport.  You need to finish all the other square frames first.  The last square frame is 12F.
 
Chuck

Hi Shawn,
 
They seem to be scattered amongst several billets: