Ryland Craze

..like more 3D pear blocks.

Two bags worth just ordered (and some other 3D gubbins)...

Clear coating went very well. I used Zero Paints lacquer clear, which did a fantastic job on my Cobra Coupe. My approach is similar to the application of the base coat and it works for me. 
First, I spray a thin un-thinned layer, which dries very quickly with the help of the airbrush blow, to hinder the aggressive lacquers to attack the decals.
The second layer after about 15 minutes consists of about 25%-30% leveling thinner and is applied "wet"
After again 15 minutes of drying and leveling time, I applied the third layer, this time with 50%-60% of levelling thinner, this time very "wet".
The brief drying time leads to later layers "melting into the layers applied before and give a better surface. I may could push my luck with the application of pure leveling thinner as a fourth coat, but I fear running paint.
The result looks far better to the real eye than on the pictures, but I learnt through other builds, that´s always the case with high shine finishes.
Anyway, today or tomorrow I will slightly sand and polish the surfaces.





Cheers Rob

No concerns at all with the kit. So far, it's built up very nicely. All those plank strakes have fitted as they should, and the materials are very, very good. 
 
Vanguard Models has these in stock at the moment:
 
https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/products/the-viking-ship-oseberg-version-3-ships-of-pavel-nikitin

ready to continue...

They are available!!!   
 

Soon…I have a few other things ahead of making another batch.
 
chuck

When chapter 5 comes out.  All of you guys building the model will get a complimentary figure to show scale.  I will randomly select one of these and include it in your order for that chapter.
 

Don't fret too much about it. Kit design was pretty archaic back in 1982. You got the first planking done, and that's the biggest challenge for most beginners.

This micro miter box was a life saver. It cut my time by at least a day.  I discovered something while planking. Sharpies are great, but either they need to dry for a good while OR wood glue dissolves the ink.  When I started laying the planking, I made an inky mess.  I tried to sand it off and you can see the results.  I kind of like it though. It looks weathered. 

It is an understatement to say that I have never done this before. I found the model at a flea market for $20.  
it sat in my basement workshop for 6 months before I even opened the box.
Having never worked on a wooden model, I’m sure I’ve made every mistake possible.  It wasn’t until I hit my first snag that I started looking online for help. I still think the instructions were written for a master builder.  Too many important facts left out.  I didn’t know to bevel the hull planks, so I improvised with Gorilla wood filler.  

From our guidelines:
 
"All written work, drawings and photographs are considered copyrighted upon their creation and posting them on MSW does not constitute giving up ownership of the copyright. Again, no need for amateur or real lawyers - these are the rules here."
 
You own whatever original work you share here, but MSW doesn't go after possible IP infringement on your behalf. If someone is using your work on YouTube, you can ask them to take it down. If it's you who is doing the sharing, simply ask for permission first. Most people will likely allow you.

With respect, gentlemen, this topic is not a discussion of copyright issues. Please limit replies in this thread to questions about how to properly address image licensing when sharing content to MSW.

The internet can be a wonderful place! It is especially wonderful if you are searching for images to add to a post at Model Ship World. You can find thousands of images of ships online!
 
BUT (and this is a big but) you probably don't own those images! And that means you can't simply add them willy-nilly to your content! Many images you find by doing an internet search are licensed, meaning there are rules that govern how the images may be used. If you violate the terms of the licensing agreement, you are breaking the law. If you share those images to MSW, you may even be placing MSW in legal jeopardy.
 
There is a way to determine whether you can share an image you find online, and it's pretty easy to do. I will demonstrate this for you here. Let's start with a Google search for HMS Victory. The search results look like this:
 

 
 
In the upper right corner of the results page, look for the "Tools" drop-down menu and click it.
 

 
 
This action opens a second toolbar, from which you should next select the  "Usage rights" drop-down menu.
 

 
 
This brings up a menu with three options:

 
"Not filtered by license" shows all the results of a search. This is the default option. "Commercial & other licenses" typically means you're going to have to pay a fee to use the image. Images from stock image vendors such as Shutterstock and Alamy fall into this category, as do most other results. "Creative Commons licenses" is the option you want. Be prepared to see a greatly diminished set of results!  
Clicking that option brings up only images that are generally okay for you to use, but with caveats, as I'll show you shortly. Note in this image that TWO of the first three results shown in the "not filtered" set are gone now!
 
 

 
At this point, you still have some homework to do -- you need to actually read the licensing terms and see what conditions you need to fulfill in order to use the image. Let's look at the first image on its Wikimedia page.
 
 

 
Scrolling down that page brings us to the licensing information, which says that you are free to share the work. Hooray!
 

 
But wait! Not so fast! Even for this shareable image there are conditions you must fulfill! For this image, you must "give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made."
 

 
What does that mean? That means you must cite your source, i.e., tell us where you obtained the photo. Here's what that looks like in a kit review I posted:

 
For comparison, let's go back to our search results, set the usage rights option to "Commercial & other licenses", and then click on one of the results from Alamy, a stock image vendor. We'll follow the links until we get to the image at Alamy's website.
 
 

 
 
There are two very important things to take notice of at the Alamy image page. The first is that the image is NOT free to use! If you want to use it, you have to pay $39 for the privilege.
 
 

 
 
The second important thing to take note of is that the image is watermarked. A watermark indicates that someone is claiming ownership of the image. After you pay Alamy the $39 fee, they will send you an unmarked copy of the image. See how that works? If you share a watermarked image to MSW, that's a dead giveaway that you didn't pay the fee!
 
 

 
 
Yes, it takes a bit more work to research usage rights, but you need to do it, because
it's the honest and legal thing to do it helps ensure that our beloved forum doesn't end up in legal hot water and, probably most importantly for forum members, the staff will delete photos from your posts that they have determined violate usage rights!  
Thanks for your cooperation!

By the way I received this drilling positioner tool today. Looks very nice, well made all metal.
 
 

A problem, for sure. But – a good one to have.

One thing to be aware of with MK kits is that they only mostly fall together by themselves, but not totally. There are instances where parts don't fit as indicated in the instructions, usually as a result of error creep during the build, and some thought has to be given as to how to proceed. The keel veneers are one such instance. In the Step 46 inset, you can see that the bottom veneer, H22, is supposed to sit atop (i.e., directly beneath) the two side pieces, H21.

 
But there are problems with that suggestion. First, it doesn't match the construction sequence of the corresponding veneers on the stem. Second, on my particular build the side veneers overlapped the false keel too much, i.e., they stuck out too far, and laying the bottom piece atop them would have made that piece stand proud of the veneers on the stem. I had to choose between trimming the side pieces to allow the bottom piece to sit flush, or else trim the bottom piece to fit between the two side pieces. I chose the latter option, because it results in the exposed, thin sides of the veneers facing toward the bottom of the keel, where they won't be seen on the finished model.

 
Hope that all made sense.
 
Onward!

Just a post to show that Phoenix is back on the bench! Working on getting some veneers done -- exciting, right?
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Impressive little beasties! Well done, Chuck.

Another new item will soon be in stock.  I had run out of my old swivel guns.  Those were cast in the traditional way and not 3D printed.  They has casting marks etc.  So now that I ran out of them I figured I would do a redesign.  Here are photos of the new 3D printed swivel guns.   Two pieces.   The yoke is flexible-ish.  This enables some manipulation to just slide the yoke into position from the bottom of the barrel and into the the holes.  Once you get one done the others will be easy.
 
I am pretty thrilled with these results because as some of you may be aware, black 3d printing resin is somewhat less than desirable.  The results often look too much like plastic or are too shiny and doesnt really show details well.  So I have conducted many tests yet again on my resin of choice.  The black finish is not to stark a black or but nice and warm and on the touch of a dark warm gray.  Very dark.  The material is also matte or barely satin.  So its a win-win.  I tried very hard to make these look like blackened brass or brushed metal which I think I achieved pretty darn close actually.  This batch is 13/16" long not including the handle.  (What is used for the Winnie).
 
Use these straight out of the bag. 
 
I should have some more sizes and these will be fully stocked in a few days.
 
 

 

Looks like you've done some excellent work on the engine, prop, and wings.  I have this kit on my "shelf of doom".  I built the engine and prop then completely switched gears and built the Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel instead.  That is disappointing about the wing tips....I dug my kit out and compared the ones I have to the plan and they are very similar to what yours looked like.
 

Cant believe I havent posted for 2 years. Well, I havnt been completely idle but must admit I (surprisingly) got a bit frustrated with the kit because of how bad the supplied wingtips are. I spent way too much time trying to make them fit before I finally made my own.
Here I'm adding all the ribs to the main spars.

This to show how the supplied wingtips are just too small. Its not a lot really but enough that it just wont fit. Tried bending them in different ways but was afraid the pewter would eventually snap. So finally I decided to make my own. They are by now means perfect but good enough I think.



The main structure of the wings is finally complete and I have been working on painting the braces.

 

Looks like she's ready to set sail into the horizon, you did a very nice job!. I have the same kit in my stash that I'll get to one of these days.
 
Michael D.

I just have to install the figurehead,  then tie up the Bowsprit  sail, the lines are run for it but not tied on. 
Anchors  and flags are on and I just have to lash the ships  boat down . Add a few rope coils and  calling this boat  done.
  


I am starting  to think of my next build so many choices,  the First Mate says try and finish one that you started already  ,lol, what would be the fun in that. 
 Thanks so much for helping me along the way,  its a wonderful hobby to be in. What to do next, another sailing ship, a schooner or two, a train or a Swedish war ship  lol. 
Happy to be part of the crew, rumor has it that   "Private First Class Gnomer Pile" is on his way back and should be able to start his old job of Ship Inspector.  
Time will tell, so let's rap this one up ,take a few final pictures and put it in our Gallery.  Thanks so much.
Knocklouder.