Ryland Craze

Got the two long pieces of veneer on the upper hull attached.
 

 

 
Because these pieces are so wide, they are terribly unforgiving of any error in hull fairing, and that point is made apparent toward the bow. Here you can see that the natural curve of the veneer creates some small pockets where too much material was removed during the hull fairing process.
 

 
You can't simply smash these down, because that will cause the veneers to buckle. Nor can you simply ignore them, because doing so will cause the wales (the next belt of planking) to sit too low relative to the upper veneers. Nope, I'm gonna have to add some material in those areas to raise the surface slightly and allow the wales to sit level with the upper hull veneers. An unwelcome task, but necessary.
 
In the meantime, I may be hitting the pause button yet again on this build, for reasons I'll discuss in a separate topic. 😮 Don't worry -- nothing bad!

I don’t think so. There is also a lot of support for you there. 
 
The description of how you make and prepare your gratings shows again what I mean in my last post. I can prepare the gratings with my small CNC-mill and build the jig following your really good description. Thanks very much.

No I wont be selling a wood package.  I just dont have time to mill wood and sell lumber.   I work directly with Joe at MS.  We are old friends that go way back...he mills and supplies me with all of my wood at Syren.   In fact we are hoping to go to a yard to pick up a whole bunch of cedar really soon.  We are currently very low on it.
 
Chuck

Thanks for saying....

I think you are doing more than an outstanding job with this kit beauty or for the ship modeling world. Everyone may know my opinion for that matter! 🙂

Tom, I like Chuck's method because it incorporates the round up. That might be possible on the mill but it's above my pay grade.

This will wrap it up...calling this one finished. With several more of these to do in my stash, it been a learning experience getting this first one together and learning the little idiosyncrasies of the best way to get it together and where attention needs to be focused on future efforts. it will be good to display several of these posed together in a pit arrangement as might be seen at a local race track.
Thanks to all for following along, for your likes and comments, and generally speaking for your comradery. See you soon with another new project and/or finishing up one of several already started. 
 
 

Inching closer to a finish...
 
 

So after a few days visiting one of our kids in Falmouth I've returned to find that the decals I've ordered have arrived. But first a photo of the lovely boats in the harbour and the fantastic coastline for your enjoyment...
 


 
So on to the decals, I ordered them from Kitsworld in Essex and they also included some free samples. There's a couple of their Diorama airfield display bases, these are stickers effectively, plus some 3D cockpit decals and stencil masks. I'm not sure which model these are for but it's a nice touch and good promotion from them.
 

 
The decals look to be good quality, I'm a long way from using them at the moment though, so let's see later how they go on.
 

 

OK thank you with that source. It appears that the Wes model car site is the only seller currently. Those models may be made just for his sale. Got it bookmarked for now but I will probably order the Stafford version in June or July for a fall build as I am a past regular attendee of that track plus have participated in their huge 2X yearly swap meets.

Thanks for the kudos. I found my first 3 kits at a local hobby shop but since that time looked for them on Salvinos website and found none. Then I found out the kits were produced by Salvinos as an exclusive for a company called Wes's Model Car Corner. Here is a link to what they have on hand at the moment: Search results: 10 results for “asphalt modified” – WesModelCarCorner
It seems as though each particular kit was produced as a limited run and once sold, they are gone. It looks to me they have produced the kits as generic as possible, then each one has its own unique set of decals. I think the only way you will find the first releases will be either on Ebay or maybe some random hobby shops who ordered some for their shelves. 
As to whether the real car has/had a Ford or Chevy engine, I don't know. From what limited photos I found of the Woody Pitkat car, there are quite a few minor details that would need to be scratch built to get it right and that will depend on the quality of quantity of reference photos you can scavenge up. Someone suggested to me I try Facebook for each particular race team/car. According to my source, he says there is a plethora of photo reference to be found that way. 

So maybe model-expo is incredibly busy, but I asked for an update last night and received tracking this morning. Seems the tracking number was 'just' created so I think they forgot about me 🫠
 
In any case, I started working on the the rolling bevel on the broad and sheer planks. I did a bit of a dry fit and it seems they barely go together. So I have a question regarding the rolling bevel. Do the instructions accurately state "the bevel increases in angle progressively until the edge comes to a point at the end at 45°"? It seems to me, since this roll is only over the span of 3/4" there's barely 1/4" that is actually 45 degrees before it starts to taper into the rest of it. I'm wondering if it would be better to leave a 45 degree bevel for the length of that 3/4" and then roll it. Maybe I'm just overthinking this - idle hands and all. Appreciate any feedback.

Nice looking truck and I'm sure seeing the model will bring good memories every time you see it.

After four days in the dryer, it is Still NOT dry. I guess I used the wrong paint. Oh well putting it together tacky. Lol
I am going the have to redo the hood, it is that bad. But sometime in the future. This was a fun model, there are some differences between plastic and wood, pros and cons  for both. This was my truck so I had to build one, now it's back to my ships lol. 
Some final pictures of my truck. Someday I'll come back and fix it all. But not today.lol
 This was fun, goodbye my friends sea you on the next build.


Oh yes I have to put the decals on as well but another day lol  😆 
This is where My 1972 Ford F100  will be parked for life , thanks for  looking.
Bob M.
I'm marking it finished. 

 

One completed keel assembly.

Still needs finish applied, I may opt just to use sanding sealer.  I'm not a huge fan of wipe-on poly.
 
Everything pretty much fell together once things were tweaked just a bit.  

Couple of things...
Be very careful with the knee of the head, I sneezed and broke one. When trimming the apron blocks, be sure to use a very sharp blade and very small slivers, as I chucked a couple I popped the first frame out of it's sprues (and yes I think USPS played football with my box, as most everything was detached).  I'm going to look like Popeye after sanding all the char off these frames.
 
I need to probably tackle putting the build board together before I get to far ahead of myself.

Shawn

Yeah, but he'd be a lot faster making the next 50. 😉

Those look terrific, Chuck.
 
I'm sorry to read that Troll City over at SOS is still alive and bitching.... I suppose that trolls have to live somewhere.

That would be so nice but it probably would put the builder at risk of being abused.
 
Anyway....those gratings
 
You will basically get all of the laser cut parts in this chapter.  There are only four hatches with gratings.  They are not very large.   Here are all of the elements needed.  You will get two layers for the jig.   The two layers are glued together to form the jig.
 
You also get a right angle jig which is 3/64" thick.  The thickness is very important.
 
Lets get started.
 

Start with the coamings.   They are laser cut and 1/8" thick.
 
The fore and aft sides are already shaped with the round-up of the deck....or camber as usually described but is an inaccurate term.
 
Use the right angle jig to glue two sides together...dont worry about the laser char just yet.   Then glue the remaining two sides together using the same jig to make a nice right angle.
 

Glue the two right angles together to form the coaming.  Sand the sides clean which are left a bit longer as you can see in order to remove the char and leave a nice bright smooth surface.   Also sand the top sides to clean the char.  You can see the cleaned coaming below.
 
Then you can start working on the grating.  Again just like my other smaller scale grating kits.
 
Insert the laser cut grating strips in the slotted jig.  NO GLUE of course!!!   This is just for alignment.
 
Then start adding the cross battens.  These are glued in position.  They may be too tight as you want a press fit.  So just run the small strips 1/16" x 1/16" through your fingers with some fine sandpaper.  Not much.  Just enough so the battens fit into the slots. see below.  There are seven batten strips and seven laser cut grating strips for three of the hatches.  The fourth is made the same way but is much smaller on the fcastle.
 

When all the strips are glued in position,  remove the grating from the jig.  Snip off the edges as shown below.  Then sand all four edges clean.  Try and not distort the perfect square shape.  In the photo two sides have the ends snipped off.   The smaller hatchway will have fewer battens and more to snip away.  Also sand the top surface clean and smooth.  Once again try and maintain the proper shape with the round-up.  You will know when its all done when the char is cleaned from the laser cut grating strip squares.

The photo below shows the top of the grating and sides all clean and nice and smooth.  It makes a nice grating.  The holes are 1/16" or 2" on the real ship and perfectly in scale.

You should but dont have to sand the bottom side as well.   Here is a look.  The battens are clearly less thick than the grating strips and these are pretty close to actual construction methods.  Or at least the impression of it.
 

And almost done...you will see how nice and tight the grating fits in the coaming.   Dont over sand the edges and you should test the grating in the coaming as you sand the edges.   In fact, the coaming normally has ledges on the port and starboard sides inside the coaming.  These create a ledge that the grating sits on so it doesnt fall through.  You can add those if you like.  But in my case the gratings fit so snug that they were not required.  I simply glued the gratings into the coamings making sure the top of the coaming was flush with the grating.  I sanded it smooth with some 400 grit paper.

The four corners of the coaming are very sharp at this point.  You dont want that.  They should be rounded off.  But they are only rounded off down to the deck level.   That is when you take that same right angle jig and use it.
 
The jig is the same thickness as the planking.   So you can place the coaming into the corner and use a sharp #11 blade to slice away the corner.  Slice it down to the top of the jig only.   You can make a stop cut at the jig level before slicing off the corner.  Then just round off the corner.
 
 
Dont slice off too much.   Just a little bit to round off each corner.
 
To finish it off I drilled three holes with a #76 bit.  I used 20lb black fishing line to simulate the bolts on the top of the coamings.  Three on each side.   They cut flush with the top of the coamings with a sharp blade.
 
All done!!!
 
 
 

It woul be a lot of fun to make a build log of your kit there.
I love your ideas and how open you share your knowledge. Without this I was not able to finish the frame design for my Alert. I also learned a lot to continue with my Sloop Fly. Thanks for that.

Yes, another forum but seriously most already know what they are like...thats why I wanted to post publicly for everyone not to take the bait.   Its just not worth it.    Just stay clear of the whole bunch.
 
Chuck

Excuse the newbie ignorance but I assume that is another forum?
Again as a newbie to the hobby I can't imagine (other than insecurity and jealousy( what folk can say negatively about your work. Having looked at a lot of kits before moving on from my first (admittedly online) the only kits I really wanted to try were yours and Vanguards. On all of the build logs here it comes across so strongly how high the quality of both your kits are to give any stage of modeller the very best chance of making something stunning. Yes they are expensive but you get what you pay for in most areas and this is definitely one.
Good luck to you!
 

I have completed the rabbet strip and the false keel. Looking good so far and goes together easily.
 

The instructions at the bottom of the text box used for posting replies indicates, 'drag files here' to attach. I just type, add a couple of line spaces (3-4 works well). I put my cursor on the one of those line spaces to insure separation and drag the image over from its file folder.  If I am posting multiple images in an area, I hit a line return/space before dragging the next image into place. 
The info about the thumbnails is true.  Deleting the image from the text body doesn't remove it from the thumbnails.  However, deleting the image from the thumbnails deletes from 'my attachments' and the thread.