Ryland Craze

I was bringing Pegasus up from the shop for some proper photos and tripped. Down she went. What a mess! Landed stern first, shearing off the taffrail, light, mizzen gaff (broke). Mizzen topmast, main T’gallant mast and fore T’gallant masts broken. Luckily, the bow was undamaged, including the figurehead and bow sprit. No damage to any of the carvings, all of which were simply repositioned on the repaired raff rail, which by dinner, was back in place with a couple of improvements. Starboard mizzen chains will need to be redone. The rest will be easier.  My wife was a witness and was much more upset than I was. 

Chris, It's mighty crowded down there in Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, quieter up here. But, we get down that way from time to time to check out the bright lights.
 
Ryland, I'll get a pic or two and post them; I've never been great at documentation. This garboard strake is a bit fussy, at least to make it sit nice and tight.

Welcome to the madness of MSW. 
 
Your tale is similar to mine. I still have a skelton hull about half-way planked of the Golden Hinde from Mamoli. I enjoyed what I did and what I learned from that work, but realize I had to get some of the basics under my belt. 
 
Start a log on  your build. You'll find a lot of people who like to learn from others and share their experiences and expertise.  (From me, you get more of the former than the latter.)
 
Have fun. And remember: 

Welcome! I hope you enjoy the combo kit, your daughter can do the USS Constitution while you work! Joking, but I do hope you both keep modeling together!

Smart decision. Before finding this site I almost stumbled into buying a model far beyond my capabilities - far beyond where I am now. I assumed wooden model kits would be like buying a Lego model or something and as an adult I could start with a fairly advanced kit. Glad I found this site first.
 
The Shipwright Series is a great model set to start with. And the NRG Half Hull will give you a deeper knowledge of how planks need to be shaped - it did for me. Neither the Shipwright Series nor the NRG Half Hull have the kind of planking done on a Constitution model, which would involved bending thin strips of wood for planking (bending in both directions). 
 
Lots recommend Vanguard models. I do anytime I can. A great choice after the Shipwright Series is a model like the Vanguard Models Sherbourne (the Modelkit Stuff YouTube channel has a build of it). This model would give you experience with the kind of planking used in lots of models, which is one of the things that trips folks up. The Sherbourne's rigging is orders of magnitude more complicated than the rigging on the Shipwright Series boats (the Dory basically has none, the Pram a tiny bit, the Smack just a bit more) - a Constitution model is undoubtedly orders of magnitude more complicated than the Sherbourne.
 
I actually started the Shipwright Series mid-way into building Vanguard because I wanted to get some experience with simpler models, and simpler rigging - and did the NRG Half Hull after seeing folks recommend it. I'm now doing my third Vanguard model, but it's still a Novice model. After that I'm planning to do a couple Amateur Vanguard models before starting the Duchess, which I bought intending it to be my second model before realizing that was absolutely foolish. I'm guessing a Constitution model would be comparable to a Vanguard Sphinx or Indefatigable, which are 3-4 levels higher than the Vanguard models I've done.
 
Have fun!

We will be at the Blackpool Model Show this weekend (Saturday and Sunday), so anyone near in the UK, we shall be there!
 
ETA - Jim (Hatch) will be there, too!

Even before buying a kit, I was drinking a hot soup in a glass with a wooden stirring rod and suddenly, as I was looking closely to this rod...... I noticed I was practicing in bending planks unconsciously, without even realizing it
😁
 

Build Log - Day 12 (11th - 12th Nov 2025)
 
Task 25 – Keel and Stem Post Pattern
After confirming I was happy with the rabbet that is formed when the outer patterns for the keel and stem post were test fitted, they were glued then in place. Locating tabs are provided with the kit to ensure these patterns are correctly aligned.
 
In the build manual the stem outer patterns were added after the bulwark outer patterns had been fitted. I thought it would be better to fit them prior to the fitting the bulwark patterns so I could utilise the rabbet to help hold the bulwark pattern in place.
 
Task 26 – Stern Counters
As detailed in my previous post I did prebend the lower stern counter pattern to follow the curve of the stern frames which was then glued in place without any problems.
 
The upper stern counter pattern also required a slight bend so it would lie flat with the stern frames. A camphor was added to the bottom edge of this pattern for a better fit with the lower stern counter.
 
Task 26 –Outer Bulwark Patterns
As highlighted in my previous post I did use a cardboard template to determine if I needed to trim the actual bulwark patterns. Using the template as a guide I sanded the bow edge of these patterns and then did a test fit. I repeated this process a few times until I was happy with how the patterns were lining up with the hawse holes and cathead opening on the hull.
 
The patterns were then soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and clamped in place on the hull. They were left for 24 hours to fully dry out.
 
The bent bulwark outer patterns were then test fitted, using pins and the kit supplied gunport templates to check the alignment. Everything looked good. I drew a line along the bottom edge so I know where to add the glue.
 
Glue was brushed on the hull and then working from the bow the patterns were inserted in the rabbet and then aligned with the two hawse holes and cathead opening. A clamp was used to hold the pattern in place and then pins were then inserted as then patterns were aligned with the gun port and window openings. Clamps were added to hold these patterns in place.
 
Photos
Lower and upper stern counter patterns have been fitted and sanded to shape
Bulwarks soaked and clamped to hull
Hawse and cathead openings look good
Test fit using pins and gun port jigs.

Bulwark patterns glued in place
Post Gluing - Bow Alignment looks good
Post Gluing - Gun port openings look good
Post Gluing - window openings look good

 

Thanks Chris, your Cautionary Tale topic actually inspired me to do so. 

Alo and welcome aboard!
 
 
Certainly, there are some folks here that place great value on historical accuracy, but by no means all! This is a hobby, so participants should first and foremost have fun building whatever they happen to be building, making it as accurate as their abilities and interest allow. There is no requirement here for builds to meet some threshold of quality or accuracy in order to be shared, so please be encouraged to show us your work if you ever feel so inclined. 
 
Cheers!

Thanks for welcoming me Keith. I'm sure that each and every ship or boat have their own appeal and they are worthy as model subjects for someone there. However, personal preferences plays a great part in this and we are all subjective observers in this. There are people that point blank refuse to touch anything military, people that are only building tug boats, etc.
For sure all of us we are finding our way somehow.
As for this one 
I already found two build logs with better results than my own, so I guess there is no real need for further embarrassment 😐 

Bogdan. welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard. 
 
 Myself and others have taken to modeling common everyday work boats from 1750 to present. There are a vast array of nondescript but worthy subjects to model that require little rigging whose beauty is found in the quirkiness of their design.    
 
 Keith
 

Welcome!

Bob M.

Hello, and thanks for the welcome.
Well, I think you'll be disappointed with me   I've build the Sultan arab dhow, but I doubt that I will build another one. And considering the shipbuilding tradition in the arab world (which is that the boats were build by local masters, without blueprints or anything, with calculations made in the sand based on the log they found available for the keel), chances are slim to none to find related documentation. I guess the chances are better in Oman though...
Maybe I will make a "finished" build log for the Sultan - for the sake of history, but I'm afraid that it will not be of too much help to anyone.

Welcome Bogdan! I hear what you're saying about the historical accuracy, I think it is a natural inclination to get into naval history when you get into the thick of building a ship. I never had any interest in naval history before starting my first boat but here I am deep diving into 19th century boats and having a blast. I don't think you'll be judged for taking your own spin on things, it's your own work of art! I haven't encountered any gatekeeping. 
As for making parts, I'm in the same boat (haha), I have just basic tools and not a whole lot of those, however I've been surprised with how many everyday things can be altered with not much effort and made into a ship-part. There's a thread on the matter here:
Anyway, it's good to have you! Can't wait to see your work, especially if you make ships from your area!
Best,
James
 

Hello Bogdan, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.
 
John

Good morning to you all!
My name is Bogdan (online "known" as Buntzi) and I live in Dubai. As pretty much everybody in this city, my roots are somewhere else. Mine lays on the Danube in Romania.
I started building ship models (of some sort) long time ago, but most of them were just pieces of wood and cardboard (loosely) put together. I tried several times to get back to the hobby, but only some 15 years ago I really started again. Inspired by a guy that was building a cardboard ship, I put together a small river tug similar to the ones that were used in my home city to ferry things across the Danube. It was a kit of some sort - printed in a 50 years old Polish magazine, it was meant to be cut directly from the magazine, pasted on thicker cardboard and used as such. I was in a small village in Indonesia at the time, so I used the cardboard from the company office calendars, ice cream sticks and school supply acrylic colors. That was the new beginning.
 
Since, I've built 3 ships: Nordkap from a Billings kit (that one is an RC model), then a Fairplay harbor tug from the Revell kit, and then the Sultan arab dhow from Artesania kit. The Sultan was one of the most enjoyable builds and I got the "sail ship bug".
My approach to this hobby seem to be quite different from the majority of this community. I enjoy building things and I try to make them as good as I can, but I'm not going too far in the historical accuracy realm, which seem to be the main focus. It is also one of the reasons that I didn't post (almost) anything until now. I don't know the correct marine terms even in my own language, let alone in english. I read explanations from people here and I need time to understand the subject because each object or line or plank or crease seem to have a name.
For me, I try to make things to fit the practical purpose. If a rigging line has a purpose, I need to understand for what was used and how, and then I will try to make it as accurate as possible...under the circumstances. Which is my next drawback: Quite severely hampered by space availability (both for working and for display afterwards) I restricted my builds to models that are small enough to fit my place.
I don't enjoy repetitive work, so...100 guns? No, I don't think so. Also, the rigging is quite a scary thing and I tried my best to chose subjects that have a simpler rigging. Unfortunately, the kits that are fitting those criteria are either very simple and uninspiring, or to such a scale that details are painful to replicate with my skills, basic tools and not so great eyesight.
I've opened up on this subject because I've noticed the weight of the historical accuracy on the threads. Apparently, if the color of the planks is wrong, this is frowned upon. That board supposed to have 5 nails in it, not only 3! Another trend that I've observed is that people seem to have any tool imagined for any specific task. I have a bit of an issue with the "Let's save 20$ and make this part ourselves - using this house sized 150k$ worth of tooling fully-equipped workshop" approach.
Also, you people seem to have (quite instant) access to any sort of material needed. Is not the case with me, unfortunately. The modelling hobby is almost non-existing in this place. There is ONE shop that sells model-making related stuff, but is focused 99% on plastic kits and their accessories. Luckily they have quite a good selection of Vallejo paints. Wood, ropes, blocks or pulleys? Insert "Nobody ain't got time for this" meme. Sure, people will say "there is the online shopping now, stop bickering about it". True, but only to some extent. IRL, you end up waiting for 3 weeks for your supplies, and this after paying 50$ for shipping 12$ worth of materials.
 
Those things considered, I beg for your patience and understanding. Peer pressure is a thing, you know?
 
Here comes the Polacca from the Amati kit.
After reading the topic with the "dead first builds", I've decided that for the Polacca I will start a build log, despite being quite advanced in the build. See you there...

A very watered down paint, often with additives that help it flow into the recesses. It pools in the recesses increasing the definition of cracks. You can build it up in layers to increase the contrast. Often the second stage in the (very simplified) model painting process: base layer -> wash -> highlight.
 
Edit, it seems I should have read all the subsequent posts before I answered, chuck beat me to it

And finally....those pastel weathering powders can be applied to good effect.  On that very same test wheel with the wet on wet wash.  I then applied some white and gray pastel powder to two of the spokes.   I am sure you have seen those wheels on contemporary models where the spokes are made from ivory but the wheel rim and center drum are boxwood.   This is an easy effect to make with weathering powders or even paint if the wheel is a decent shape and color to begin with.  I have no idea why most companies who sell 3d printed parts insist on using that battleship gray color.   So many more possibilities when you use a tan or wood colored resin to begin with.
 
Can you imagine what this wheel would look like if all the spokes were treated to look like ivory.  Its a little blown out in the photo because of my bright lights on the work bench.  But you get the idea.  This took me about 2 minutes.  You just have to be careful not to get the powder everywhere else and blow it off.  Dont brush it off the areas you dont want weathered.  
 

 
OK I guess I have to make more rope and blocks now and stop playing around and procrastinating.   UGH!!!
 
17 items out of stock today.

I love the effect of weathering powder, especially on turning resin cannon to a realistic gun metal color, oddly using Rusty Brown ( a Chuck trick I learned building Cheerful).  However it’s messy and at least in my case has to be applied to parts off the model. This approach would seem to allow a more ‘target specific’ alternative and maybe not end up everywhere like, again for me, the jar of powders do. 

And while we are discussing finishing techniques.  Many of you have seen me use weathering powders for a million different things on a ship model.  
 
weathering powders are great but they are ridiculously expensive.  I still use traditional weathering powder sold in small jars.  But for several years now I have switched to artists powder pastels.  They can be quite expensive too.  But a medium quality set works just as well for our applications.  
 
I use a sanding stick as my palette or a small square of sandpaper.  The pastels will last you forever and come in a much wider range of colors suitable for our ship models.  Look at all the variations of browns and yellows and ochre shades.  I use them everywhere including on my 3d printed parts so they can look like wood.  
 
just rub the pastel on the sanding stick.  You would be surprised how much fine pigment powder this makes.  
 
Then use a dry paint brush or “stomp” to pick up the powder and apply to your part.  
 
Yes you can even dip your brush in some water to give it a more painted or different look.  This also helps it settle i to the grooves and cracks much like the wet on wet acrylic technique.
 
sorry for the long post I I hope you find this useful and might try it some day.
 
This pastel set cost me $20 on Amazon.  It comes with about 75 colors.  Try and buy that many jars of weathering powder and see what it will cost you.
 

A wet on wet wash is just what it says.   The opposite of a dry brush technique.
 
The surface to be painted is wet down pretty good before you start with just water.   I work on a third of the wheel at a time to avoid it drying out.  Then take another brush....smallish with a point so you can apply some very thin and wet paint to the already wet surface.  It will spread out through the already wet field and not be very opaque.   Brush it around in areas you want to hilight with a darker color like in the grooves.   Then before it dries still, take the original brush which is clean hopefully and while it is dryish...just damp from being wiped on a cloth, run the brush over the areas you want to erase the darker color.  It will soak up the unwanted brown color and reveal the brighter resin under it.   Easy Peasy....but yes you have to first try it.   Then you will know.   
 
Its an alternative to weathering powders or even the gel stain.   There are so many ways to achieve what you want as a finish on these items.
 
Chuck

Yes they are pretty close.  The ones on the model are really really tall.  I cut them down in height just slightly.   
 
Chuck

I hadn't noted those oxagonal (?) mast coats previously. They look amazing are are faithful to the prototype model.