Ryland Craze

Quite the ruckus going on the Astrolabe, the Penguins are very noisy  😳. 
I put the Pegasus in the display case,  it is not finished, just the standing rigging is done. I quess that's why the cheer from the Penguins lol.


I just like seeing it in the display  case, I could stare at it for hours.  Between looking at the ship in the display case and looking at some incredible logs on MSW,  I am not getting  much done lol.


A few pictures  of the Pegasus figurehead,  I put it on , it should be safe behind all those ropes. Lol. Kurt Builder says, that I seem to be in a hurry  , that I should slow down and enjoy the yard work  ,  I told him , Boom Irons. Lol. He just roared  🤣



So with  the standing rigging just about done , time to dig out the case of yards and go to it. I decided to start with the Bowsprit mast yards first,  I don't know what it is about Bowsprit mast,  it just keeps drawing me in. Lol

So we are going to pop this case and start some yard work,  
 
Knocklouder 😁 
Kurt ⚒️ 

The detail so far looks right up there with an Eduard PE set (although without having to scrape off moulded plastic nubs)!

Andy
 

Ya can't rush a Halinski build, partly because there is always a large number of parts to slog through, and partly because Halinski designs can be terribly unforgiving of error creep, so proper fitting and gluing is essential.
 

Welcome to another creative adventure in card! This kit, chosen by the members of MSW in a recent poll, depicts a Kawasaki Ki-61 Hien, Allied code name "Tony", flown by Cpt. Teruhiko Kobayashi of the 244th Sentai in early 1945.
 

Courtesy of Wikimedia
 
The Hien was interesting for a number of reasons. For one, it was the only mass-produced Japanese fighter to have an in-line engine. Second, that engine -- the Ha-40 -- happened to be a licensed derivative of the famous Daimler-Benz DB601. Third, it was the last Axis fighter to be powered by the 601 or its derivatives. And lastly, for now, it was code-named "Tony" because of its resemblance to Italian fighters such as the C.202 Folgore.
 
The Hien caused some anxious moments among the Allies in the Southwest Pacific when they encountered it, but fortunately for them, the Hien's glaring weakness, from an operational perspective, was its poor combat-readiness record. For a number of reasons, the Hien was difficult to maintain, and that, coupled with the decreasing proficiency of new Japanese pilots, meant that Allied pilots never encountered as many competently handled Hiens as they otherwise might have. Which was a good thing, because by all accounts competently handled Hiens were dangerous adversaries.
 
The Halinski kit, as per usual for their kits from that period, is very detailed. 
 

 
The aircraft's metal surfaces are printed in metallic ink, which does not show well in this image.
 

 
Many, many diagrams. The cockpit is absurdly detailed. The trade-off for the overall build is that there is no equally detailed radial engine, so once the cockpit hurdle is cleared, the remainder of the build should go relatively quickly.
 

 
I have the laser-cut frames, consisting of two frets, and the molded canopy, but no wheels -- I'll have to make those the old-fashioned way from laminated discs.
 

 
First cuts soon!

Slowly adding levers and T-handles. Believe it or not, 14 parts have been added since the last photo!
 

Fun day today. Finished planking then sanded the hull. Covered 1/2 the hull with  Artist Loft Modeling Paste from Michaels. Modeling Paste works great as a filler and sands out very smooth. I filled 1/2 for the photo and will fill the other before I turn in so they dry overnight. 
 
Best Rick
 
 

Well I keep going off on a tangent from my Friendship Sloop to build another car, trying to reduce my stash though I keep buying more for some reason.  Below are a few pictures of Revell's 1969 Chevy Camaro Z/28 RS.  As you can see in the last picture, I used the same color as on my mid 80's Porsche 911.  It is actually a Porsche color but I figured it was close enough to Chevy's LeMans Blue metallic.  Thanks for looking, hope you enjoy.  I swear I'll drag that sewing machine out and make those sails for the sloop.
 
 
 

I've never met him, but I've been connected with the SMA off and on over the years, and his name came up often enough for me to recognize it. I'm sure I've seen his work in their newsletter.
 
I'm very sorry to hear of his passing.

Put on the second broad plank. With it added, I finally felt the cradle was stable enough to sand the bottom smooth without risking the cradle breaking. I need to start sanding and beveling the sheer planks now.
 
 

 

I did a search and was actually kind of surprised by how many pond yacht topics we have posted here. Some of them are concerned specifically with rigging. Comb through them and see if you can find something to get you started in the right direction.
 
https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=pond yacht&quick=1

Probable 100+/- year old model that was once sailed in rivers, streams & inlets around Savannah by my father and older brother. My grandfather made it from scratch and my grandmother sewed the sails but alas the sails and original rigging are long since gone. What is pictured was an attempt by my father to stabilize the mast, booms, spreaders etc using what looks to be fishing line closed looped with leader sleeves. I would like to rig it properly. Suggestions & sizes of and sources for the rigging will be greatly appreciated. Also the best guess of a scale. The model's LOA is 25", beam 6", mast height 31" and depth (main deck to keel) 5"
 

I thought I'd add a note, having now used AK matt red and smoke black.
 
First, I did thin 50/50 with water.  Worked a charm.  I think my previous (and very limited) lousy experience with AK must have been because I used ISO to thin, probably not bothering to check.  Anyway, it thinned nicely and went on so smoothly, I'm gobsmacked.
 
As to the colours, the matt red is really nice and imho looks right.  It's a duller red as you know, unlike Tamiya flat red.  I think the Smoke Black is really nice on the wales; it's also dulled from straight black, and looks to me to be closer to German Grey, although to my eye not quite so grey.
 
Nick

I have all the stays run fore and aft , just have to tie them on to the deck.


Kurt likes the pacifier  Pegasus that I installed, 😎  ,  cool I think lol.

Just tieing a few lose ends then on to the bow spirit mast.
A really big thanks  goes to buddy  @Gabek who told me about these Collapisible Eye Needles . They are fantastic  to use, makes treading  2mm deadeyes a breeze. @Glenn-UK you got to try these, if you can find some. I used one to thread all three crowsfeet lines on the Pegasus and didn't have to stiffen the lines once, so eazy just to push the wire through the little  hole thread the line pull back done. Makes doing crowsfeet lines so eazy , I would requmended them ,it's a game changer .
 


Seems I am missing  a 5mm deadeye on the Bowsprit mast,  and missing  a single block at the tip of the Bowsprit mast as well.. Should have it all tied up in a couple more days I hope. Then it is off to the display case just to give me space to build the yards.  Toying with the idea of putting  all the swivel  guns back on, as well as the gun port lids,  I have a ladder on the port side to install, then the hand rails that go with that.  And dare say, install the figurehead.  Lol  So lots to do.

But she looking great to me, a slight applause  from the deck of the Astrolabe could be heard, lol. 
Thanks so much for look in.
 
Knocklouder 😁 
Kurt ⚒️ 
 
 

Got up this morning and decided to lay over in port. Next to where I was anchored locals were planking a boat in dry dock and they asked me if I wanted to  pitch in and help. Since I was here for the day I joined in. After a full day of hard work it’s time to turn in for the night and prepare to resume my adventure tomorrow. 
As Always Best  Rick

Eric, thank you very much for the tip! I will try to keep things even. 

Brian, welcome, and looks good so far!  I am just a tad ahead of you on the MS Dory.  Do keep an eye on the relative alignment of each of the port and starboard strakes—if #2 is misaligned, it’s hard to make it look right with #3.  Also, I found it better to lop off a lot of the extra length on the stern side of the strakes before I attached them;  otherwise the extra length gets in the way of the building board.
-Eric

So, I finally got one of the broad boards glued on; it was much more difficult for me than the first plank. Also, I think I was too sparing with the glue, as things kept springing loose right when I thought I had it stuck for long enough to get some sort of clamp or rubber band on it. Therefore, a bit more glue was used which seemed to help. White titebond for the detail oriented, which is probably everyone reading this.

 
And, the other side ready to bend in place for another go. You can see I got a bit sloppy with the glue at the stern, which was giving me fits. 
 

 
 

Welcome to Model Ship World.  You are starting off on the right way to build wooden ship models.  Please post some photos of your in-progress build.

Welcome to Model Ship World Bogdan.  We are glad to have you aboard.

Testing some reds for the bottom of this hull. Some are clearly wrong. 
 
I like the 1/2 Cavalry Brown (70.982) and 1/2 Scarlet Red (76.102). 

The metal base of my Quad Hands makes for a nice base to do edge bending of planks. 

I was bringing Pegasus up from the shop for some proper photos and tripped. Down she went. What a mess! Landed stern first, shearing off the taffrail, light, mizzen gaff (broke). Mizzen topmast, main T’gallant mast and fore T’gallant masts broken. Luckily, the bow was undamaged, including the figurehead and bow sprit. No damage to any of the carvings, all of which were simply repositioned on the repaired raff rail, which by dinner, was back in place with a couple of improvements. Starboard mizzen chains will need to be redone. The rest will be easier.  My wife was a witness and was much more upset than I was. 

Chris, It's mighty crowded down there in Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge, quieter up here. But, we get down that way from time to time to check out the bright lights.
 
Ryland, I'll get a pic or two and post them; I've never been great at documentation. This garboard strake is a bit fussy, at least to make it sit nice and tight.

Welcome to the madness of MSW. 
 
Your tale is similar to mine. I still have a skelton hull about half-way planked of the Golden Hinde from Mamoli. I enjoyed what I did and what I learned from that work, but realize I had to get some of the basics under my belt. 
 
Start a log on  your build. You'll find a lot of people who like to learn from others and share their experiences and expertise.  (From me, you get more of the former than the latter.)
 
Have fun. And remember: 

Welcome! I hope you enjoy the combo kit, your daughter can do the USS Constitution while you work! Joking, but I do hope you both keep modeling together!