Ryland Craze

If you are using polyester rope it will always unravel unless you cook it in a toaster oven.  
 
not too hot…250 degrees maybe 275 for 4 or 5 minutes.
 
Just tie a simple knot on each end when you cut it free from the rope walk and then wrap it around an empty tuna can.  But wrap the tuna can with foil before you cook it.  Some cans can stain the rope when cooked.  No issues with a foil cover however.

Thank you for this tip Trevor, I just tried rotating the other way and it loosened the thread, then tightened it in the opposite direction. Here's the results:

As a bonus it is not unraveling nearly as much as before! 
I think by switching the rotation, I amended this issue? I will try misting the rope and hardening it next time as well!
 
Kind words Chuck, thank you! I admire your work.

The unravelling may be a function of the lay of the rope versus the lay of the strands - they need to go in opposite directions, Also, newly laid rope need to be hardened. This is done by stretching it on the ropewalk before cutting it loose. I damp the line as I stretch mine. Done correctly it won't subsequently unravel.
 
And don't knock the look of the machine - if it works, it works!

And therefore it is a success, no matter how outwardly hideous it may appear!

Really nice rope....and I have seen worse looking ropewalks, LOL.
 
Great job on that!!!

Hello all, 
While waiting for a new boat kit to arrive, I decided to try my hand at making a ropewalk, it is a very ugly creation made by someone not knowledgeable at all on the subject, but it works! I didn't follow any set plans, but rather modeled it off of this video on youtube:
(Sorry if my terminology is incorrect)
I made the ropewalk in two pieces, rather than one, so that it could be mounted and scaled up or down if needed. 
This is the whirl end:

May be the ugliest ropewalk ever seen on this forum, if there's a trophy for that, let me know. A mechanic, I am not. 
 
Here is the other side (looper end?):

 
This picture also shows the topper that I carved out of basswood and then drilled holes in, again not elegant. 
 
The two sides can be clamped any distance apart, the securing lines between them just need to be re-tensioned and tied

 
Here's a video of the whole thing in use:

Snapchat-4891773.mp4 And a picture of some results:


 
I figure the worse a device looks, the more pleasing it is when the product turns out good. I can't wait to experiment more. I am still having issues with the rope unraveling a few inches when it is cut. Otherwise it holds its shape fairly well!
Let me know if I did anything wrong that could be making the rope do this! 
Best,
James

This project is now free…just click on the group projects drop down at the top of the site.  Its in the menu along the top of the page and you will see the Triton Groups.  There is a downloads forum and a Build area forum.  You can access them there.  
 
If you cant find them post in here and we will try and help you.
 
https://modelshipworld.com/forum/39-hms-triton-downloads-area/
 
https://modelshipworld.com/forum/89-cross-section-build-logs-for-hms-triton/
 

I should complete the bottom today

I agree with everything Greg has said.  Its really just a choice.  But I do disagree about splices looking Clunky with CA.   They can and should look exactly the same...it just takes practice.  If you are more comfortable and used to using one glue over another, then of course one will look better than the other.  But this is only because you are not as accustomed to using one over the other....hence the practice needed.
 
I am partial to medium CA as the really thin stuff can be absorbed too much and spread as shown in the photos above on the wood.  Those photos also show way too much glue being used and its just not needed.   Just a little is needed and zero seepage occurs.   I also use the medium CA on rigging all the time although very little.   Very very little as you saw in my tutorial on stropping blocks.   Its all about practice and choosing the correct density of CA.
 
Chuck

More progress has been made: the skegs have been added, as has the dagger board case and the 3 inner frames, and one inwale is now glued in place.
 
The skeg fitting was easy and quite enjoyable using the sandpaper on the hull method for shaping the mating surface. I added a centerline to the hull just aft of the dagger board slot for keeping the bow end of the skeg in line. The other two skegs also went on without trouble, giving the model a nice flat platform when upright.

 
I built the dagger board case by first clamping the two sides together, then sanding the bottom against sand paper placed over the slot in the hull, which quickly shaped them to the hull. Then I glued the case together in a few stages, first gluing one end piece to one side, using a square to keep the edges tightly aligned. After that set up, I repeated the process with the other end piece, then finally glued on the other side, which was trickier, as I had material protruding out of both the top and bottom.

 
I should have trued the top edge before gluing, as the bottom has to have the end pieces protruding thru the slot, but it went together well and glued in place easily.
 
The inner frames were more challenging, both in placement and fitment. Getting those pesky frames square transversely and vertically inside a hull which has virtually no vertical or horizontal surfaces is a bit of a chore. I think I did ok, although frame 2 might not be perfectly vertical. After reading some other build logs, I decided to check the fit of the mast step prior to gluing in frame 1, and I'm glad I did. I ended up moving my placement for frame 1 back a bit in order for the upper mast step piece to fit correctly. I'm currently working to fit the thwart to the hull before adding the supports, as other build logs have mentioned that getting it in place after both inwales were installed can be a challenge. Nearly there, sanding each end and fitting until it nestles in place.

 
The inwale was straightforward in bending, and fitting, very similar to the dory model. After several fit attempts, with associated trimming and sanding I had a very nicely fitting inwale. My apologies for the less than crisp pics.


 

I worked as a Mechanical Engineer back in the late 60s and early 70s in record change and tape recorder mechanisms.  We used one of the earliest C/A glues, Eastman 910, to secure rubber parts to metal.  I have samples that are as strong as the day they were glued up.  Some of the rubber has started to deteriorate, but not adjacent to the glue joint.
 
I have a model ship that was made back in 1988 or 1989 using Bob Smith C/A glue and their accelerator that is here in my house that is in perfect condition.  We used C/A for the quick setting as the models were built in Manila and the humidity there is always very high - about 90% - the only time it doesn't feel like 90% is when it is raining and you haven't experienced rain until you experience a SE Asia Monsoon.
 
I trust good C/A especially the Bob Smith brand and don't hesitate to use it where applicable.  I do prefer to use Titebond glues due to a longer working time but when I need something to stick right away I reach for the C/A.
Kurt

Thanks Phil, I missed you over on LSM recently and whoosh, here you are . Progress is slowly at the moment, too many non modeling distractions, but this will change soon, hopefully.

Cheers Rob

So far, I've really enjoyed doing the easy part. Started making the structures for the subassemblies using the laser-cut frames set.
 
Since most of the part labels were next to the parts themselves, I made sure to write the numbers on the faces of the parts, so I wouldn't screw things up... or at least reduce the chances of me screwing things up. I'm sure I can still do it...
 

And, here are the substructure of many of the subassemblies. 
 
Meanwhile, I added some wooden blocks to help stiffen the hull framing. The larger filer blocks are balsa, but I started running out, so I just reinforced sections with some basswood pieces. This should also help to support mounting rods at a later stage. That's what I've done with other paper models, though they mostly been a lot smaller than this one.
 

I'm going to experiment with using some filler to fill and smooth out the hull shape. I've seen some models where the builder used styrofoam instead of the wood blocks or filler. Just never been keen working with that stuff.
 
Worst case with my model hull, I'll ruin it and I'll need another laser-cut frame set. Anyway, I'm considering getting a second kit, because I know I'm going to lose or mess up parts. I've scanned and printed the parts sheets, but the color is off from the original, and the color and part numbers printed on the deck pieces are pretty muddy in the original and hard to read, and even worse in the printed scan.
 

I started with both of my daughters around the age of 6 (see the Polotsk build in my signature, the youngest does not have a build log yet). It may sound young, but at that age they usually have basic precision required.
 
Of course the motivation is different, they saw me modelling and wanted to try that too, to a large extent as a together-time, as opposed to going into the hobby purely for the sake of hobby.
They were never interested in getting the final result, but wanted to try the process. Sanding wood, shaping wood - all of that was a learning curve and a joy. It is very different with plastic and not sure fiddling with plastic glue and tiny parts is enjoyable.
Do not expect that the model would be completed, it's too much of a stretch. And by the age of 10-12 they have got a lot of other hobbies, so might be too late   Expect that they would never finish the model, and by that age - would stop caring about finishing, but would hopefully cherish the memories you had together.
Modelling for them is just an excuse to try all these new skills and spend time with their dad, while feeling a joy of building something more complex than a Lego.
Surprisingly the type of a ship does not really matter, as long as it is a fairly straightforward kit where you just cut pieces, glue them together, etc. But it is really beneficial to have a kit with pre-splined planks that would fit together nicely.
 
Skill-wise expect to teach them the very basics, that we, adults, do not even think about. Keeping the knife straight (yes, they can already use it carefuly), moving file straight, how to hold a piece of sandpaper between your fingers, how to draw a pencil line on wood, etc etc. And prepare some scrap to practice, of course. 
Some tools are off-limits though - no table saw, very careful with disc sander. Dremel is fine, but watch out for hair and sleeves. Band saw can be introduced a bit later. 
Introduce dust and eye protection for certain operations from day one, for them it is very natural and not weird if they see you do it as well.
Prepare for practicing every new skill on scrap pieces, for kids to sidetrack to "side projects" like building random stuff out of cutoffs and similar foolery. It might be frustrating, but again - the journey is the goal, not the destination.  
 
Of course it is all very anecdotal and your experiences may vary, just sharing mine. Do not wait until they are pre-teens, do not start with plastic, just dive right into the wood if that is what they want. There is nothing extremely difficult in cutting and gluing wood pieces for elementary school kids. Just need supervision and patience.
 
Some teaser pics, she has just turned 6. 

First batch of birthdays and holidays (Wife's on 10/22, Brothers on 12/6) behind me so now on to the Cheerful. Worked on the trees before the mast as I think it will be easier to make the mast fit the trees rather than trees fitting the mast. I copied the plans and glued to wood for part.

Using the scroll saw cutting the image leaving enough too finish with the disk sander. (I'll put a new sandpaper)

next using the oscillating spindle sander to finish the parts inner curve. Like other logs where the used a mill to cut the slots into the cross pieces, why with others success why reinvent the wheel, I did the same process. Using four pieces of material glued together so the protecting the inner pieces from chipping as the cutter existed.
T
The parts where assemblied on to of the plans image. I left the center cross piece long on purpose to file it close to the adjoining part.

When the glue dries I sand the center flush to the sides. With to trees done I'll move on to the mast. Gulp
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks @Keith Black , I have been to that page before,  I may give that a try if I don't like my clove hitches  lol

 I installed  the deck this morning,  I  laid a piece  down the center,  and made tape copy for the side cut them glued them on.


On to the wings, oh yes, I stained  the deck, Honey maple and gave it two coats of shellac,  I love shellac  it drys fast , paint you got to wait, and watch it dry lol.

I like the chopper I got from Amati,  it sure saves time and my cuts are nicer, lol.

Once the glue drys, paint. 😆 

Time to make some paddles,  they have to be painted as well. Then a decal for the side, it's old I hope it doesn't just break all apart. We well see.
 After  I get the cap rails on and the gun ports box in, paddle wheels on, I will sign the bottom  of the hull with a note , then put it on the stand never to be looked at from the bottom  again lol.
 The kit pilot house plans are not so good,  I looked at all the logs for the Harriet Lane  and found everyone made there own,  I will have to see what I come up with, as I don't like the paper decals the kit has. UP grade lol.
Thanks for peeking in, a very fun kit to put together,  I am enjoying it immensely,  be done by Christmas,  just in case  someone wants to Surprise me 😮 🫢   lol
Paint is  dry , got to go.   
 
 Knocklouder 😁 
 
 
 

Hey all, so after months of delay I’ve finally got around to completing the decals!
 

Hopefully I measured correctly and they are the correct sizes! Really happy with the inkjet quality as these aren’t very big! 
 

It has been given its clear seal coat and tomorrow after work I’ll begin experimenting to see how they work and the dos and don’ts.
Will also see if the decal adhesives and softers work or not. 
I’ve a feeling once I commit to putting them on the planes that if they fail it will be an effort to reset to try again! 
So naturally I’ll probably start with the biggest and most important ones haha 😅
 

 
Not too far from the finishing touches now! Definitely dragged this build out much longer than I should have!
 
 

Thanks Chris, I think that's basically what the Avangard instructions are showing. What's a little confusing is that it's hard to tell the placement of the assemblies. There's no master diagram that shows all the structures in place (with numbers), and It's difficult to see any numbers on the printed decks, but I can tell they're there. 
 
I'm sure I'll figure it out, but it's a bit confusing at first. I guess that's one reason they call this an "advanced" kit... 

These steel navy ships in paper are interesting. I'm used to building sailing ships, but with these steel vessels, there seem to be a lot more sub-assemblies. Construction seems to be, at least looking at is all at this stage, less linear. For the most part, it seems I could work on the various superstructures off the model. Then, when they're all done, just glue them to the deck.
 
I have a lot to learn about these builds, and experienced builders clearly have developed techniques to make their models superior. I suppose that's true about any type of modeling. I'm clearly a newbie here, so I'll just learn what I can and do my best.

Having just finished my first steel navy paper model, the German WWI torpedo boat V108, it seems appropriate to start a blog on this new paper model project, USS Bagley on Pearl Harbor Day.
 
I say appropriate, because the destroyer Bagley operated in the Pacific and was moored at Pearl Harbor on the day of the Japanese attack. Bagley's crew manned her .50cal machine guns and claimed to down a number of Japanese aircraft, though this couldn't be substantiated with all the anti-aircraft gunfire taking place. By mid-morning, she headed up the channel and out to the open sea under the command of a junior officer, as her captain, XO, and gunnery officer were still ashore at the time.
 
The ship was the lead ship of her class, built in 1937, as a "Treaty Era" destroyer, which limited her displacement to 1500 tons. She had an active wartime career and earned 12 battle stars. The ship survived the war and was decommissioned in 1946.

 
The Kit
This kit is published by the Ukrainian company Avangard, and depicts the ship in her 1944 configuration, with camouflage. She was armed at this time with 4x 5"/38cal guns in single-gun turrets, 6x 20mm anti-aircraft mounts, a twin 40mm mount, 16x 21" torpedo tubes in four quad mounts, and 2x depth charge racks.
 
Some of the printing, particularly of the decks, seems to be a bit too dark, and it’s hard to distinguish some of the printed details. I suspect I might end up having a hard time placing some of the parts because of how dark things look. I contacted the publisher about this, as I didn’t know if this was normal. As it turns out, due to the war in Ukraine, the company has been limited on available paper supplies, and the paper they have been able to get doesn’t absorb the ink the way that they would like. This may be too much of an issue for some. But, I think I will be able to manage. It will help that there is a jpeg image of this sheet posted on the company’s Facebook page, with the printed part numbers appearing more clearly.
 
One thing that threw me, which had to be explained to me by someone at Avangard, is that there is one page that is clearly out of place. It’s a second page for the lower hull of a ship, but it’s different than the Bagley’s hull, and even has a label that says IJN Asashio. Apparently, this is not a mistake. There was a measurement error in the earlier Asashio kit, and there was extra space in the Bagley kit, so the publisher just stuck in the revised sheet. I’m just glad it wasn’t a error in my kit.
 
The kit has almost no text, except the ship history. But, what text there is, is in English. The drawings seem clear enough. Of course, only an actual build will determine if there are any construction issues with the kit.
 
Along with the basic kit, I ordered the laser-cut frames set as well as the details set, which is basically all of the railings, ladders, and other fine parts. All told, I think I spent less than $60 for the kit and accessories sets.
 
I had a very hard time purchasing this kit, but no fault of the publisher. Living in the US, I discovered that it’s almost impossible to get any paper model products from Europe. I tried to buy this kit from Fentens (Germany), GPM, and Orlik, but none would ship to the USA due to tariff and customs issues. I only got lucky when I contacted Avangard directly about my situation, and they were able to help me out on a one-time basis and get this kit and accessories sets to me directly. Many thanks to Avangard for their help!
 
Instructions and Parts
I don't really have much experience with most paper models, except Shipyard kits, which are kind of their own animal I think the Avangard kits are pretty typical in terms of instructions and parts. There is no written instruction at all, only diagrams are provided. Interestingly enough, the only text is on the inside front cover and back cover, which are only written in English.
 


 
 
Building Begins...
 
The beginning stages of construction of paper models, seem pretty straight forward. These parts are from the laser-cut frames set. At 1/200 scale, this is a pretty good sized hull, just about 20-1/2" long.
 
I'm not sure if I did this the way I should have, gluing the upper and lower hulls together at this stage. But, it's all a learning process.

Don't know how much time I'll spend on this model, so it may be a slow build, but construction has begun...
 

Yes Alan i do have very fine chisels. But i want to horn the technique to film it so that i can share what Greg showed in the book. The reason i had trouble cutting the squares is that i did not have a mill end the exact size so used a center end instead. I was more interested in the technique than in the exact finish. I also  went about constructing the part different than what Greg showed in the book. Stretching my skill to try figure it out my self. . Next  time i will construct  it the way he built it and then decide which method is better.  I need some  new mill ends to do it his way.
 
I only have a few days left before i leave for New York so the next video will be last week of January next year so i  have time. Also my rotary table has most of the numbers missing so i have  written to  Sherline  to see how i can have them replaced. perhaps with a sticker. Failing that i will just have to mark the major stop points temporarily.  Thats the only way to get them to line up exactly. 
 
also Greg used a dark wood insert, Ebony, i used a brass strip which was not the correct width. I may stick with that as it worked well, but might try cutting it out of a brass sheet.  

I did not have the correct size mill ends to cut the square holes. This is my first attempt. I will pick up some when i am in New York in 2 weeks time. I am not unhappy with this 1st try and know ill get it better. Some of the markings on my rotary table  have worn off so it makes it difficult to cut the holes   spot on. Trying to solve that issue. 

Hi, a new modeller here with a Billing boats Norske Loeve. 
I have been modelling plastic model kits and also RC airplanes for a long time, but I have always dreamed about a wooden ship.
Now I got myself self a started kit from Billing boats. The kit is laser cut and the previous builder has made nice job on the frame and planking.
It seems to have some hangar rash, but all in all nice condition. I started my journey with seeking information and so I found this site!
 
Here are two videos I found from Youtube,  which have very nice info on these old sail ships!
 
Hope someone else finds these valuable to watch!
 
How 1800th century ships work
 
H.M.S. Victory animation
 
Mika from Finland.

That was my experience as well. The last couple I built, I left the rubber band motors out to eliminate the temptation to 'test fly' them, since the phrase test flight was more or less synonymous with disaster. Model rockets often met similarly amusing fates, but usually survived at least a few flights first. Perhaps the OP's kid would enjoy rocketry?

My dad introduced me to building stick and tissue balsa model aircraft when I was about 10-11 years old.  The finished models were usually only good for one or two flights before they had to be fixed or replaced with another balsa airplane model.  Let them choose an appropriate beginner model to keep them interested.