Ryland Craze

Thank You for saying...Its a labor of love.   I insist on not offering anything for sale that I wouldnt put on one of my own models.
 
Chuck

I am waiting for the day you start your 3D printer and a week later you pull out a HMS Victory in the 1/48 scale. Just kidding.
Chuck, I love the details that you produce since that was the first thing I noticed when I open my first kit. The small wooden parts don’t look very prototypical. 

Amazing Chuck! 👌

I was asked to show the color of the wheel on top of some boxwood.   This is an even better way to see it in its actual environment.   Dont look at the dust.  When you see dust build up on your model like this that means you really need to do more actual model building, LOL.   The wheel on the left is how you will get it and can use it straight out of the bag.  It looks great.  The one on the right has the wet on wet burnt umber wash.   I will have the ten spoke 1/4" scale boxwood version in stock today.  Its 1 1/4" in diameter.
 
Its a very subtle difference dont you think.  Too often I see folks over-do the application of a wash or weathering.  You really just want to give it some tone.
 
Chuck
 

Oh thats great.  I havent tried the Minwax version.  Any warm
brown or will do according to your tastes.  You really have to experiment.  

Chuck: I have been checking out paint shops here in the Yukon and we dont seem to have Old Masters in stock. Minwax seems to have gel stain on the shelf up here in abundance. Any recommendations on a match that would be close to your recommended Old Masters Fruitwood gel stain? I do like the look it gives
 
Mike Draper

That piece was maybe 3 mm thick
but now that I've sanded it down a bit, it's about 2.5 mm wide at frame 8a and gets even thinner towards the front. Wait a bit with the modification, JJ, while I do some more sanding.
Then I'll check it, take a photo, and write to you.
I'll also send a photo of how much I've adjusted the front step for frame 1a.
 
Now, today's progress.
I glued the last one, even though it's actually the cant frame no 1. And then the hawse pieces or bow timbers, which name is correct, or both?
During assembly I used 0.8 mm foil and some scrap  to support and define the same distance between them.
And of course, I couldn't wait because I was curious to see how it looked, so I immediately started sanding.
Now, however, the last half frame and the same thing awaits on the starboard side.

 

Welcome to Model Ship World.  You are starting off on the right way to build wooden ship models.  Please post some photos of your in-progress build.

Welcome and I totally agree. 
Best Rick

Well, it’s been just over a year since my last post, but I’m back at it— progress was stopped last winter, and slow through summer, but fall has been much more productive. 
I finished the planking, and just popped the hull off the building board today.  I am mildly pleased.  The results of having trouble lining up the strakes with a consistent overlap show up in the bow and stern views.  I botched the alignment on the port second strake but didn’t realize this until after the starboard went on.  I decided to chalk it up to learning, and keep going with what I had.  I’m hoping that I can hide some of the jaggedness in the bow with the false stem, being soaked now.
Learnings, BTW:  I had to soak the wood much more (like 24 hrs) than I thought in order to get a good bend.  I just clamped the soggy strake to the frames, and they held almost a perfect shape when dry.  I used mostly the glue provided in the kit, but found a little dab of CA can work wonders in a pinch.  Isopropyl alcohol works like a champ to unglue big whoopsies.  ("Whoopsie" is not the word I used at the time. 😇).  Best tool, besides a new #11 blade:  my wife’s used nail file emory boards.

Will my pencil marks show through the paint?  I’m nervous about sanding down to much.
 
A total upside was shaping the oars—very please with these.  I now know why 5 blanks were provided in the kit!  The “handles” were constructed in two ways:  the ones that didn’t break off were shaved down from the blank, per instructions, and the others are round toothpicks glued into drilled holes in the end of oar.

I’m glad for the portable heater in my garage workshop.

I forgot to add the photo showing what the unweathered 3D printed wheel that is Boxwood color will look like (on the right).   This is how it will look when you get it and you can see how easy it is to just kick it up a notch.    You guys should give it a try.  Just a wet on wet wash of brown or burnt umber changes the appearance quite a bit.  With my rigging blocks I do this for you in mass  (not with acrylic paint).  But because of the complex shape of a ship's wheel I cant really do that....it would just take too long.   So its up to you.
 

New fittings to be available soon.   Available in Boxwood color and a Swiss Pear.
 
Ships wheel...
 

I already have real Boxwood ship's wheel kits and will be keeping those in stock.   I love those. These are just an alternative.   Especially for those who really dont want to assemble 50 pieces and turn the spokes in a dremel.
 
The Darker is good to go right out of the package.  The Boxwood wheel is also great to use as is, but in this instance I wanted to show how it would actually look with a wet on wet wash to accentuate the grooves and details.   It literally took 5 minutes.   Too often I see folks just use this stuff straight away withought working on the appearance further.   It does make a big difference.  Wet down the wheel with your paint brush.  Then working about a third of the wheel at a time while its wet, I applied some acrylic burn umber paint.  The paint was also very very thin, wet, wet wet.  Just brush it on while the wheel is still wet and then switch to a clean brush before it dries.  Just touch the raised areas or the areas you want to remain lighter and it will soak up the very wet darker brown color.  For example all around the outer rim face and the thicker areas of the spokes.   The paint just erases away leaving the lighter color of the raw resin under it.  
 
You can also use weathering powders depending on what makes you feel more comfortable using.  You can also use some wood stains....of your choice, I prefer Old Masters Fruitwood Gel stain.
 
I show this because on certain items the 3d printed objects looks so great right out of the package....blocks for example.  But others need some help so they dont look so perfect and clean making it hard to see the details.  The darker "Pear" color doesnt need any work at all...for whatever reason that finish always looks great right out of the package.   I went just a hair lighter on the darker pear finish for the wheels.   I just thought it needed to be lighter and this is the way they will be sold.   
 
I am working on an eight spoke wheel now as well.   So these will be available in the same sizes as my all boxwood kits.   Basically a 1/4" and 3/16" scale wheel.  And hopefully in both 8 spoke and ten spoke.

How do I look so far on my sailboat adventure. 

Welcome to Model Ship World.  You are starting off on the right way to build wooden ship models.  Please post some photos of your in-progress build.

Welcome to Model Ship World.  You are starting off on the right way to build wooden ship models.  Please post some photos of your in-progress build.

Welcome!

I was in Gatlinburg two weeks ago -- first time in your great state!

@Taken Aback you will learn a lot and gain great experience in these 3 ships.  I had built the MS 18th Century Long boat first and had a lot of problems that would have been prevented if I had built the MS Shipwright series first.  Good luck and welcome, you will enjoy this hobby.

Thank you, all for the nice welcome.
 
Someday, I will join the heady ranks of those with a completed build in my signature. I did just soak and bend the first garboard into place, after shooting a few rubber bands around the work area.
 
Progress.
 
Chris, we're practically neighbors, I live near Cookeville, TN.

You're welcome! And thanks for that bit of encouragement!

Welcome aboard, Brian!
 
Thanks for your kind comment on my pram build log. I hope it does prove useful once you have your dory finished!
 
Trevor

Brian, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard. 

You won't be disappointed with your purchase of a Vanguard Models kit🙏

Best place to be, good luck on your adventure, MSW will be behind you.all the way..    
Bob  M.