Ryland Craze

Thank you and Happy New Year to you and everyone on here!
 
Laser machine running today with Surprise production - but have to stop to do more Sherbourne laser cut sheets, keep running out for that one!
 
There will be a pre order window for Surprise. If I can, and if I have the time; for every pre order, like the Indy, I shall try and do a personalised nameplate with the name of the purchaser on each nameplate.

Ready for building masts and rigging... (almost).  I made the rudder from scratch.  I could say that I decided to be historically accurate and did this only because I studied rudders on contemporary models in the great post below and decided to emulate those ... but one could also say that the original rudder has fallen victim to the overzealous sanding - of course i will go with the historical accuracy and the the latter explanation 😀
 
I now understand why some hate rigging the cannons - not sure if i would go through way more of them...  Good thing is I am now not that scared of rigging - I can still screw it up but i won't be scared while doing the screwing up 🙂  
 
 

This may be my favorite boat in Seattle I’ve only been on a couple times once at harbor days in Olympia and then last week for the holiday light cruise I would really love to build a model of this someday hope you are able to get this one done

Work in progress 3D model of one of the Worthington pumps

Good to start a new thread than to load up another log ... and I'm wondering if the title of the new one should be tweaked a little - rather than to search for the 'oldest' ship modeling book, maybe it could be a review of any pre-1950 'how-to' book (just a thought).
 
  Regardless, I just received an original 1926 copy of Ship Model Making (vol. 2 on the clipper Sovereign of the Seas) - a famous McKay ship) by E. Armitage McCann (through Abe Books on Amazon).  I'm impressed at the amount of useful information in this book - not just for the 'scratch' builder it was intended for, but also for those getting into (or renewing) an interest in model shipbuilding today - with the advantages of the latest in ship kit technology.
 
  There a lot of 'nuts and bolts' talk about how to go about model ship making (for a clipper, at least, in this book - but transferrable as well) - including nautical terms and many illustrations/diagrams.  A weakness may be a shortage of 'detailed' wood modeling techniques to actually craft many of the features illustrated ... but this was in 1926 when many 'handyman' skills were common (and expected) of boys and men.  There are reasonable simplifications in the rigging, and a fairly clear layout (in comparison, the Cutty Sark rigging in the Airfix scale series of books can drive a modeler nuts, without a great deal of studying/interpretation and jumping around).  There is a concise history of the subject ship herself, and a pair (checked in advance on my copy) of large folded plans in a pocket in the back hard cover ... very nice.
 
  Due to the date of printing, the paper is increasingly fragile due to the acid content of early 20th century publications - so care in handling is needed.  There are Dover re-prints of this book (less the large plans ... 'not sure if they include reduced versions) ... but possibly subject to 'later' copyright of the Dover edition - an 'ah-ha' moment, as the 1926 book IS now in the public domain.  Thus it can be copied by any means and used at will !

  So I'll add just a few of the 1926 book illustrations as samples:  I LOVE the 'layer cake' method of roughing a solid hull - its one I have done successfully myself not long ago on Thermopylae, although I found carving easier with more layers - and the thickness of the layers becomes thinner towards the keel area.

 

 

 


 

 

I offer this from 1684.
 

From the post by @palmerit
 

Wikipedia says "Established 1843". Their 1934 catalogue is on-line at https://usvmyg.org/archives/a-catalog-of-model-yachts-model-ships-yacht-fittings-stevenss-model-dockyard-1934/ 
 
Looks like their variety of fittings 90 years ago would put to shame most modern suppliers. I wonder whether they expected to sell mainly to enthusiastic amateurs or the people who built large models for shipbuilding companies and passenger lines?
 
Trevor

That is quite an eclectic book-- it covers a lot of ground beyond models.  It seems on first glance only the first 3 pages cover models? Chapman lists a supplier of model fittings, and it's the same one advertised in Hasluck, 1905 (attached below)-- must've been a good supplier to have been in business that long; I wonder when they opened.  H-

Update:
My laser decided to take new years off until further notice so everything is at a dead stop until I can convince it otherwise. 

My homemade plank heat-bending iron is a modified Weller 80 Watts 110 Volts soldering iron, with a fashioned head from brass, I use for many years (~ 30+). You can obtain a brass rod of the same or very similar thickness as the rod that comes with the iron, shape its end in an angle, replace it in your iron and use it for your plank bending, or mount on it a crescent shaped head also from brass (alternatively from aluminum). Both the rod and the disc (later on shaped to a crescent by you) can be obtained from specialty shops dealing with industrial metals, or from some scrap metals.
 
Probably 60 Watts iron would be still OK, I think... Remember you have to have temps of about 1/3 less than for soldering, otherwise there is a danger of burning the planks instead of bending them.

I have been through this.the 220 V device will provide you not enough power to bend any planks. currently I am using Weller’s 110 V soldering iron 80 W power and the head from AeroPiccola plank bender which fits right into it. 
 
 

Here 'tis! 😁 I've cut tons of stuff on this little thing, mostly hardwoods. It's really a great little tool, despite its origins and price! As for 'thin' stuff? It'll cut a 1/32" thick plank, or a 'stack' of 1/32" thick planks just as easily and pretty as you please! Nice clean cuts even on the thin stuff!
 

 
 

Harbor Freight sells this saw for about 1/3 or 1/4 of the cost of the Micro Mark version - from the same mfg.  Identical except labels - the last time I compared them.
I purchased my say several years ago thinking if it got me through the project I was working on with a delivery deadline it was worth it - the tool would pay for itself.  I completed the job on time and I still have this little workhorse and it's now at least 10 years old.  If it ever dies, I will replace it with another from HF.

I have the complete 'Ultimation' line of products and love them all. The chopper will indeed cut a bevel on one end, but I deal with that in one of two ways. If it's planking, I'll often use that bevel to my advantage by turning the points 'up' and making a really tight butt joint against the preceding planks. If I don't want the beveled cut, I simply cut my pieces a tad long and use the sanding repeater to sand all of those parts to exact lengths while also removing those tapered cuts. As for the hand powered sander, itself. It is a gem, indeed. It's saved me many times when the complex geometry of a curious part and compound angles would make it difficult to accurately sand such a part via a powered disk sander where you must sand on one side of the disk due to rotation, etc. With the Ultimation sander, I just turn the crank in whichever direction best suits the needs for the part needing to be sanded. I have nothing but 'PRAISE' for all of my Ultimation tools!  

Fully understandable, I have quite huge database of aircraft (mainly WWII) including detailed pictures of museum pieces and around 100 monographs, so if ever needed, just mention me! And good luck further, I am watching!

Danny

Thanks for the compliment and info! Generally, I don't worry too much about the what the doohickeys are and what they control -- for me, the outside of the plane counts far more than whatever detail happens to be on the inside. That being said, I do look for info online regarding appearance, color, settings, etc., and if that doesn't help out, then I just go with whatever positions are indicated in the diagrams. This is why, for example, my Spitfire Vb, has its gear selector in the 'up' position, even though the gear are very obviously down!
 
Cheers!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!

Very cool what you can do with paper!
If you still wanna know what the levers do, here you go:

From left to right, they are
 - emergency hydraulic pressure (not sure myself what this is)
 - flaps
 - fuselage gun loading (maybe safety)
 - radiators control
 - landing gear safety (this is the small black plate between the slot of red and blue tipper lever, it should be metal casing with a slider with a notch to lock  the landing gear lever (rightmost lever on your model) and have a very short purple tipped lever)
 - landing gear

So landing gear one should be down, guns down, radiator and flaps depending on your modifications, but would be closed when parked and no clue about the hydraulic presure, but would guess up as well.

- source: Maru Mechanic - Mechanism of Military Aircraft 2 - Type 3 Hien & Type 5 Army Fighter - Type 99 Light Bomber

Danny

Big milestone today! Take a good look, because it's now time to zip up the cockpit.
 

 

 

 

 
At long last we can work on something different for a change! The forward fuselage framing is next.
 
Cheers!

The propellers look good!  

They are nerve wracking to make!
 
Especially out of card!

Assembling the screws is one of those things that makes me nervous, so just stare at the parts, and set it aside to do something else. But, it isn't so bad. I used a little CA on the ends of the hubs, so I could sand them smooth, the I added the blades. The paper hub pieces are marked, which makes adding the blades pretty straight forward.

After adding the blades, I also used a little of the sparkling compound to fill gaps and help smooth things out. I rubbed off any excess with my fingers. After that dried, I brushed on a little more thinned Aleene's and let it set.

When that was all dry, I brushed the yellow parts with Revell's Matte Bronze. Not sure where I got the stuff, but I've had it for a while. It comes in a little tin, like the Humbrol paints.
They're not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with them. On one blade, you'll notice a slight creasing of the paper material.
 
Now, to finish the parts that hold the shafts. The kit includes a paper part for the shafts themselves, but I'm replacing them with stainless steel rod.

I think that's a peculiarity of this kit / this manufacturer. In kits I've built with strips and dowels so far it's never been the case that I have to precisely cut those pieces up into 1/3s or 1/4s with no wiggle room. They're always longer (and there's more) than I've needed (with few exceptions) - but I've only built Vanguard, Model Shipways, Midwest kits so far. I've always ended up with extra bits of strips and dowels. Maybe that's not true with other manufacturers. 

They are an exact copy - ripped off after they were selling the original choppers - stopped ordering from NWSL and substituted their ripped off copies.  Not the only instance of copying by MM.

Bob,
  Doing full rigging at that scale is incredibly difficult.
 
The Harriet Lane is looking really good!

Well it came down to 3/32 deadeyes or my sanity 🤔,  they won. I made my apologies to @Gabek the man go's out of his way to make them for me and I can't use them. I admit to defeat,  lol. They are just really small.

3mm in the middle  3/32 just below,  above is kit supplied  single blocks. 

What I decided to do is use the kits metal deadeyes for the  upper shrouds and on the bob stays.I use 3mm deadeyes for the lower, 

I am a little disappointed in my eyes and the shakes but I am older so is to be expected. 

And yes @Keith Black , once so far if you are wondering,  lol just before I took this pucture  an upper cut to the mast snapped it off.  Lol.
 Got some family stuff going on so I am not working on much. All good just I have to deal with family. Lol.

Ratlines are on the horizon for sure, lol There is supposed to be a compass  but not sure about that.
 Thanks for  peeking  🫣.  More to come.
 
Knocklouder 😁