Ryland Craze

Here are my ship notes. I went back on the book but David does not give an explanation why he beefed up the sides at the top and bottom. 

Actually, the stiles are each just a single piece. I suspect that the notch in the rear of them was partly to save weight.

This was the design that David has in the book. It was not explained but my guess is that this was added to the top and bottom of the ladder where the most pressure exists. You can ask David next time you see him.

Steps

Well that fix worked pretty well.  I carefully sanded down to final shape, cleaned off the glue residue, scribed out the etched lines as best I could, and painted.
 

 

 
Glued in, it's not so noticeable.
 

 
I've now glued on the other main wale and roughly cut out the gunports.  There are a few little slip-ups here and there, but I'm pretty pleased with it.  The red looks a bit orangey in the pics.
 

 

 

 
Installing the main wales was kind of nervy, in part because I thought I was through with planking LOL.  I decided to use CA; I just can't use those pins, they never go in right.  I had pre-shaped the wale parts in the usual way, but I had to clamp them on a bit higher than the top line for them because I couldn't clamp down that far.  I suppose that gave them an ever so slightly different shape, and on the starboard side one I should have backed off and re-shaped, especially the bit right at the stem, which wasn't curved enough.  But of course I forced it down with glue on and luckily it held.  It's a touch off but I'm not going to try to fix it.  There's also a little bit of clinker effect on both just under the foremost gunports on each side, but again you can't really notice it when you're looking at the model normally, so best left alone I think.  Except for the slight clinker, the portside wale wen down better as I did re-shape near the stem to fit better.
 
Nick

Thanks for the likes and comments, guys.
Today, I glued the last short cant frame and then moved on to the fairing.
The bow or cant frames and hawse pieces are about 80 percent sanded.
Then I moved to the stern.
After partial fairing, I removed the temporary inner and outer posts and continued sanding the wing transoms.
This is a much more difficult part than the hawse pieces.
Tomorrow I have to add some fillings and try to sand it down.

After shaping the fantail (sprayed with brown primer before sanding)found a low area and needed to refill with Modeling Paste and set up to dry. 

After shaping the Fantail Stern filled interface and fantail with Modeling paste to be shaped when dry. 

JJ has all the files and has done a first pass at laser cutting all the parts and printing the resin parts.   He will start a log soon.   Here you can see he has tested all his laser cut parts from the same files you can have access to.  Everything seems to fit wonderfully and his capstan is coming along beautifully.  He has not yet dyed his 3D printed parts black yet but this was a test fitting exrcise.
 

This  will be an open source project.  You can download stl files for 3d printing and dfx and pdf files for laser cutting.  
 
This group will have 3 sections…
 
1. I will create a build log of the step by step construction of the capstan.
 
2. I will create a build log of sorts for the laser cutting…materials and techniques. 
 
3.  Lastly a brief chat about the 3d printing…what resin I use …dyeing the pieces…i will provide pre supported stl files as well as those without supports.
 
With these technologies becoming more common,  we should have projects like this one.
 
But if you dont have these machines...thats OK too.
 
JJ will begin production of this kit in December 2025 so folks can buy them.   If you buy a kit there is no fee to join and you can start a build log at any time.
 

 
People are sending me requests to join the group.  Dont do this ever.  This is just a quirk of the software.  
 
This is the way it will work.  
 
Once I finish setting up the tutorial topics.  I will announce it is ready for folks to join.  Its just about all done.
 
The NRG will add a store item to its online shop.  You will have to go there and buy your access to the group for five bucks.  We are still setting that up now.  
 
Mary will contact me with your information and I will send you an invitation.  You will see your the invation and will be able to click a link to accept it and join.  
 
Basically its the same way it works for the Winchelsea group build.  Thats when you will gain access to download the files.
 
If you are not 3d printing or laser cutting your parts,  its free to look at and participate in the build logs area of the group as you will be able to buy a kit and start a build log without paying $5.
 
You only have to pay the five bucks  for access to the files if you are making the parts yourself.
 
The group area looks like this...when you enter it the default is set to the build logs tab.  You will see everyones logs here.  Right now there is only mine.  But there are several more tabs above the build logs.  See the yellow circled area.   If you pay your 5 bucks you will access to these two tabs where you can download your laser cutting and 3D printting files.  It is here where all of the tutorials are as well.   You can also ask questions related to laser cutting and 3D printing here.
 

 
If you clicked on the laser cutting tab....this is what you would currently see.  
 

 
Its almost completed and I will announce you can buy your access to the files shortly.   JJ will have kits ready for all others in December I believe.
 
If you have any questions about this group dont hesitate to ask.
 
You can check out the build log and instructions for the prototype right here
 
https://modelshipworld.com/forum/175-project-build-logs/
 
Chuck

Thanks all.
 
I think this is going to work.  The glued joint is good and without much excess.  I took the "gross" down with the Dremel, now sanding sticks and so on.  Trying to remember to be more and more careful/slow as I go and holding with fingers on the joint and as close as possible to the sanding so as not to stress the joint.
 
Close enough here to stop with the Dremel.
 

 
Closer in with some hand sanding.
 

 
A test fit suggests ok on general shape.  Now it'll be repeated test fits and sand a tiny bit, etc etc.  Won't get anymore done today though as have to do some other stuff.
 
Nick

Yes I like your solution too...that's going to look more then fine  

I ran into a little issue with the fit of the aft section of the starboard inner bulwark.  Dry-fitting, I had a small gap at the stern end; it's only 1mm, but is plenty for the gap to show.
 

 
The section lines up nicely otherwise, so I don't want to do a small insert at the section join, as that would throw alignment off imo.  I measured from stempost corner to each quarter corner, and the starboard side measurement is indeed 1mm longer, so my starboard side is longer somehow than my port side.
 

 
So my idea has been to try and tack on an extension to the stern end of the bulwark section, using the sprue form, so it will necessarily match, and then I'll just have to cut/sand the addition to match.
 

 
So goes the theory anyway.
 
So I've put down some wax paper underneath to prevent the glue from sticking everything to the cutting mat, put some glue on the sprue end, inserted the part and put some tape on to hold it as firmly as possible against the sprue end, some wax paper on top to prevent glue sticking to a board clamped on to hold it all in place.
 

 
That was half an hour ago.  Gonna leave it for at least two hours before taking a look to see if it's worked.  Fingers crossed.
 
Nick

Here it is with the weights etc off.
 

 

 
Nick
 

After Liquitex Gesso primer

Adding the fantail stern

After sanding Modeling Paste filler

Boxwood color 3D printed blocks are now back in stock.   This is a much harder color and finish to pull off than the darker Swiss Pear color.   I dont know any other places that offer this color and texture of blocks.  I just finished this batch of 3/16" single blocks.   I believe all of the boxwood block sizes are  in stock now too.  This particular batch came out very good.
 

Chuck

Today, repetition on the starboard side.
The final framing is within reach.

Quite the ruckus going on the Astrolabe, the Penguins are very noisy  😳. 
I put the Pegasus in the display case,  it is not finished, just the standing rigging is done. I quess that's why the cheer from the Penguins lol.


I just like seeing it in the display  case, I could stare at it for hours.  Between looking at the ship in the display case and looking at some incredible logs on MSW,  I am not getting  much done lol.


A few pictures  of the Pegasus figurehead,  I put it on , it should be safe behind all those ropes. Lol. Kurt Builder says, that I seem to be in a hurry  , that I should slow down and enjoy the yard work  ,  I told him , Boom Irons. Lol. He just roared  🤣



So with  the standing rigging just about done , time to dig out the case of yards and go to it. I decided to start with the Bowsprit mast yards first,  I don't know what it is about Bowsprit mast,  it just keeps drawing me in. Lol

So we are going to pop this case and start some yard work,  
 
Knocklouder 😁 
Kurt ⚒️ 

The detail so far looks right up there with an Eduard PE set (although without having to scrape off moulded plastic nubs)!

Andy
 

Ya can't rush a Halinski build, partly because there is always a large number of parts to slog through, and partly because Halinski designs can be terribly unforgiving of error creep, so proper fitting and gluing is essential.
 

Welcome to another creative adventure in card! This kit, chosen by the members of MSW in a recent poll, depicts a Kawasaki Ki-61 Hien, Allied code name "Tony", flown by Cpt. Teruhiko Kobayashi of the 244th Sentai in early 1945.
 

Courtesy of Wikimedia
 
The Hien was interesting for a number of reasons. For one, it was the only mass-produced Japanese fighter to have an in-line engine. Second, that engine -- the Ha-40 -- happened to be a licensed derivative of the famous Daimler-Benz DB601. Third, it was the last Axis fighter to be powered by the 601 or its derivatives. And lastly, for now, it was code-named "Tony" because of its resemblance to Italian fighters such as the C.202 Folgore.
 
The Hien caused some anxious moments among the Allies in the Southwest Pacific when they encountered it, but fortunately for them, the Hien's glaring weakness, from an operational perspective, was its poor combat-readiness record. For a number of reasons, the Hien was difficult to maintain, and that, coupled with the decreasing proficiency of new Japanese pilots, meant that Allied pilots never encountered as many competently handled Hiens as they otherwise might have. Which was a good thing, because by all accounts competently handled Hiens were dangerous adversaries.
 
The Halinski kit, as per usual for their kits from that period, is very detailed. 
 

 
The aircraft's metal surfaces are printed in metallic ink, which does not show well in this image.
 

 
Many, many diagrams. The cockpit is absurdly detailed. The trade-off for the overall build is that there is no equally detailed radial engine, so once the cockpit hurdle is cleared, the remainder of the build should go relatively quickly.
 

 
I have the laser-cut frames, consisting of two frets, and the molded canopy, but no wheels -- I'll have to make those the old-fashioned way from laminated discs.
 

 
First cuts soon!

Slowly adding levers and T-handles. Believe it or not, 14 parts have been added since the last photo!