Ryland Craze

Thank you, Tom. During the making of the name board there were times when a alcohol fire sounded like a fine idea. 
 
 Thank you for the kind words, James
 
 John, thank you ever so much.
 
 Thank you kindly, Kurt. 

The sign looks great Keith.

A great example of perseverance to achieve the desired result. Good on you, Keith!
 
John

Perfection is an illusion, often chased, never caught
Wise words to have, and all the more helpful that it's on your signature so as to be reminded frequently. That sign looks fantastic Keith, I doubt version 700 would look much different! Love following along.

Eberhard, you deserve an explanation as to the why of it.
 
 I am using 6X glasses to work by but those letters are very small. While the pen points are small landing the pen points exactly where they need to land and not be on either side of the line but dead center is difficult even with as steady of a rest as I can make. As is I had to trace the letters with a dull point where the pen tip had a channel to follow and I still ran off course occasionally. For myself, there comes a point where it's okay as is, better leave well enough alone. I would rather the lines be less than perfect width wise and somewhat straight than try to make them wider and in the process have wiggly lines. Does that make sense?

Lucky number 7!
 
 When I threw my little tantrum with myself on 5.0 I immediately set it aside due to my disappointment for it not being "perfect". After looking at 6.0 for a couple of days I revisited 5.0 and reworked the lettering. Name board 7.0 is actually 5.1 but it looks ever so much better than 6.0, IMHO. I am at peace with 7.0, I am really done with the name board this time, once again it's far from perfect but I can happily live with it.
  
 

 
 I am real pleased with the scaling, note where the letters are in relationship to the two windows below. 

 
 I want to thank you guys from the bottom of my heart for not giving up following along and for your enthusiastic support during the trials and tribulations of making the name board. You guys rock!
 
   Keith

Thank you kindly, Pat. 
 
 Thank you, Tom. Once the name board has been attached due to it's size, there's no additional work that can be done to the lettering. It is what it is. My dry transfers have finally started moving the the USPS system and should arrive sometime this week. Since I've had a day I see the possibility of a 7.0. 
 
 Thank you, Bob.
 
 Thank you very much, Ken. 

Thank you to everyone for the likes and your comments.
 
 I guess my aspirations of becoming  a miniature sign painter for fun and profit will come to naught. 
 
Name board 4.0

 
 Name board 5.0. I had such high expectations yesterday when I started on 5.0 that once finished I was so disappointed with the results I didn't even put it on the model.
 
 Name board 6.0. I've attached 6.0 to the model in anticipation of it remaining there till CA do us part. I am far from happy with the results but at some point I have to move on. If I every get my order of dry transfers I'll see how those work out but my thinking is 6.0 is as good as I'm going to be able to do.  
 

 
 It's past time to move on to the fore walls.
 
 Thank you for your support and being part of the journey.
 
   Keith  
 

Dial, or 'digital' calipers are always your best friend! They can measure 'anything', almost. Sometimes you'll need a telescopic 'I.D' gauge for difficult to measure areas, but you'll also need the caliper to measure what the I'D. gauge fits into. 
 
Caliper is good for 'this'. Note the inside measuring jaws, the outside measuring jaws, and the 'depth Blade'! 

Telescopic 'I,D.' gauges look like this. You put them 'inside' whatever you're trying to measure, rotate a screw to extend or retract the ends, then put your calipers on the ends of the I.D. gauge to get an exact measurement. These are really handy when certain things get in the way of simply using your calipers alone. With these two gadgets in your toolbox... there are very few things that you'll ever struggle to successfully and accurately measure!
 

Good start Danny and welcome to Model Ship World.

Port side planking below the channel wales completed, now for the black strake and the main wales.

 
 

Not much model progress.   Not sure where the time goes at this time of year.  (Dickens fair?  Home maintenance?  Too much time watching holiday films and  social media?) 
 
I did visit the wreak site and photographed a timber at high tide.
 

 
The board is about a meter long and probably 8 or 10 inches wide.  ( I am multi lingual when it comes to measurments.  Just to not ask how many football fields or tennis courts this is.)
 
If this is ships timber, it is really nice clear grained wood.
 
-julie
 
 
 

Richard:
Yellow Ochre powder can be mixed with water or alcohol and "Painted" onto the surfaces where you do not want solder to flow onto during soldering operations.  Let it dry and then apply your flux and solder the part.  I always use alcohol because the alcohol / yellow ochre solution dries much quicker than when water is used.
Yellow Ochre  is a flux repellent and where the flux won't go neither will the solder.  The solution can be kept in a small jar or other lidded container and if it dries between uses just add water or alcohol to make it liquid again.  This will greatly reduce the amount of clean up needed after soldering.  
I learned about this from Ken Foran's book Modeling With Brass - the 2nd edition has an added section on ship modeling using brass.  In my opinion this book belongs in every serious modelers collection - but only after it has been read cover to cover.
Take care,
Kurt
 

Experiments complete.
All the Decals are on now! 
they all went on really smoothly! Slightly thicker than I was hoping but that’s a tiny complaint and over all I’m really happy with it. The only ones that have me trouble were the ZK-BFS ones. The clear ones were to see through due to no white being printable on inkjet. So looked terrible. Instead I carefully cut them out individually on the ones I’d printed on the white background rather than clear. ( I had a white decal and clear decal page printed)

and then painted the top with the aluminium colour which did add some thickness but wanted it to work.





Im happy with them!
I’ll give them some time to dry well and then just tidy some of the edges and seal them all in with a gloss clear coat then I’m thinking to do a light wash on them with a shade darker grey mainly on the wings and the elevator and rudder control cables and I’d say these guys are done!

I had a bad break but decided to leave it and hopefully will fix it when sanding
 
 

 
Still have the other side to do...

 
 

The happiness of adding the last plank

Been moving along here and there since cooler weather has set in and yard work has slowed down. Currently the gunwales are dampened and clamped. I'll do final sizing and glue next week. I've had a couple of misfires on the false stem but hopefully will get it lined out next week as well.
 
 
 
 
 
 

I recently completed this stick and tissue model of a Westland Lysander. The original aircraft were built in the late 30s and were used by the British for search and rescue. The model kit is made by The Vintage Model Company. It is approximately 1/27 scale and has a wingspan of 22". It's a beautiful little model that was a challenge to build.
 
My only complaint is that the supplied black tissue is very fragile when wet and too transparent when dry. I'll look for better tissue if I do another VMC kit.

One photo of the structure. The parts are laser cut and fit together perfectly. The wheels, struts, and pants are laminated from many pieces and require a lot of carving. and sanding. The silver cowling is vacuum formed but the black cowling is card stock over a built up frame.
No decals - the lettering comes as a printed sheet that you literally cut and paste.
I used a silver marker to outline the control surfaces. Black did not show up. 

Engine cylinders are made of a balsa dowel wrapped with thread, covered with CA, and sliced in half. Lots of work and very hard to see.

I found an image of a Lysander control panel online, printed it, and pasted it in the cockpit.

She’s got stacks

Thanks Grant  your compliments are highly appreciated. Hope you join my granddaughter and  me on our next journey to the far ends of the WORLD!
Best Rick

Today work :

I'm with Chris on this but everyone has a budget and maybe you could make it work for you.  I have a couple of Innocraftmans products and the vice I have is very nicely made.  However it's not that strong and like the other item I have its a little rough around the edges.  I knew this when I bought them and they do exactly what I require them to do.  I would search wider on the net for reviews but if you want a serious mill my instincts are to stay away and save for something better. 

A special thanks to @Gabek,  he has come through for me again. Jumping ahead to the rigging section, I decoverd that parts are missing.  Deadeyes, blocks and the flag were missing, a few pieces for the deck as well.  Steve told me that he got this model a very long time ago, it was given to him by a freind,  it just sat in his closet till he gave it to me. Don't  know about the flag, but Deadeyes,  that's where buddy Gabe comes in. I called him, explain things, away  he go's 60 deadeye blocks ready  for pick up. Thanks so much Gabe.
I have the single blocks and a few doubles from the Scientific Bluenose model left over.
  Also the thread for the rigging,  I am changing all of it. The larges one the kit has was .75 mm for shrouds,  then the smaller  black thread is .4mm it's not very good. Oh well I got a lot of thread in my stach box
 The pilot house is just about done waiting for the paint to dry on the vent pipe and the whistle pipe, the rest is as good as it gonna get lol

The windows went the best, the doors and siding not so much, but It'll DO lol.

I only have one American flag, and was told that it is the wrong flag, mine is not supposed to have that many stars. I will find one.

The pilot house grows on you the more you look at it, add the steps  and it will pass
 

Coming together nicely,  its a nice boat, I think it will go beside the Pegasus in the display case,  looks like there is room for one more model.

On to the steering wheel box and wheel, the guns. Thanks ever so much for following along,  also Gabe sent me a link for the plans for the Harriet Lane,  the are great, shows a lot of stuff and how to make it. It has a rudder section I didn't even know it existed  lol. Now it just a matter of getting down to business. Oh no, I have a bowsprit mast,  not fond of them, maybe later 😆 .
 Talk to you all soon. 
Knocklouder 😁 
Captain  Steve  👮‍♂️

Thank you, Eric. It's far from perfect but I'm pleased with the way it turned out. In the original photo I can't see boards in the arches/wheel wells plus it's darker (I think) than mere shadows. It's possible and would make sense that Engel lined the inside of the arches with canvas. Just a thought. I'm leaving the arches white and will weather them with pastels.   
 I ordered the transfers on 12-2 and still haven't received them. I called Woodland Scenics  yesterday as the tracking number states the order is sitting in the post office because of a packaging issue. The person I spoke with said the post office was probably behind and the tracking info was most likely incorrect. When I suggested he contact them since they were the shipper I was told I should contact them..........hmmm. 
 
 Thank you, John. Yes, I to look forward to the paddle wheels being installed as that will be the last major hurdle to cross. 
 
 Thank you very much, Keith. 
 
 Thank you, Paul. I checked and the pens are supposed to arrive today. Hopefully I'll have photos late4r this evening. 
 
 Do you have a particular brand you prefer and the reason for that choice, Eberhard? 

You're steaming ahead at 20 knots, mate !   Hmmmm, ... Scotty, can you give us any more ?! ...  Captain, I'm giv'in' her all I've got !