Ryland Craze

Getting late in the day and the sun is in the far west above the horizon. Worried steam pressure may get too high and explode so worked on the steam gauge. To give the glass look on the face of the gauge I copied the card stock gauge image (that comes with the kit) onto photo paper. I encased the wood plug body that comes with the kit with 2mm wide brass strapping then cemented the photo image to it. I also cemented a piece of wire in the back in the 12 o’clock position to aid in mounting it to the boiler dome.  Getting time to anchor up and admire the gauge. 
As Always (until tomorrow) Best Rick

It's available? Great! I'd like to see you build it. 
It's a very simple working steam engine. You solder some of the major parts together.  The intake and exaust ports open and close as the cylinder rocks side to side. Very clever. You fill the boiler with water and put a few drops of oil in the water and light the sterno chunks that you put in a cup under the boiler. As i recall,  the engine was a separate kit way back.

Today completed but not rigged the foremast. First the lower part

Then to do the supports for the upper shrouds made encircled the mast with strips then sanded down
 

 
Then the topmast


 
Pre sanding sealer
 

And after
 
 

Completed the painting of the hull. It’s gone slow because I painted this when also painting some other models. Next steps are adding pieces to the deck. 
 
(Still have a bit of cleanup to do with a 000 brush. Nearly all the painting was with an airbrush and masking.)

State of play, 23 Nov 2025.
 
 

Okay, starting in on the most complex set of rudder pedals that a kit has ever called upon me to build -- 32 pieces in all! 😬
 

 
And they are not big pieces, either!
 

 
The main portion is a shaft with a number of linkages connected to it, with spacers on either side of each linkage. As often happens in such instances, I ran out of space on the shaft to include all the spacers, so some fudging was called for.
 

 
Then we needed to add the pedals themselves, each made from six pieces.
 

 
Lastly, a test fit to make sure everything will fir properly.
 

 
That's it for now!

Swiss Pear 3D printed deadeyes are all now back in stock....enjoy!!!  Hot out of the oven....so to speak...
 

Once again, thanks for the positive comments and likes.  And now onto chapter 4.
 
Pretty basic stuff this week with the first few steps of chapter 4 leading up to the installation of the false deck.
 
Added the two sub decks and the beams.  I applied one coat of matt water-based sealer to the sub decks to test out if I liked the look.  Weighing using a matt finish on the deck, or just keeping it completely natural.  I would like to seal the deck planking with something but don't want it to be noticeable.
 
At this point all beams are only dry fit.
 
You can also see the center line I ran the length of the deck.
 

 
Next was dry fitting the false deck sheets.  As I placed the sheets and got them aligned, I followed Chuck's suggestion in the directions and drilled & pinned the pieces in place.  All of this still only dry fit.
 

 
Then it was time to pull it all apart and glue the beams and false deck permanently into place.  I ended up adjusting almost all the beams again during final assembly as everything was still just a little too tight and was pushing some of the beams out of alignment.
 
I was able to install the false deck one piece at a time relying on the pre-drilled pin locations for alignment.  I used several 1 Kg bags of shot to press the deck pieces down while the glue set.
 

 
Current state of things.  The bow filler pieces are installed.  I'm doing one last round of fairing prior to starting on the inner bulwarks.
 

 
Steve

I got the oval shape cut from the wood board I purchased. Glued two wooden pedestals on it, but wasn’t quite sure the wood glue was enough. I flipped it over and drillled from the bottom. Then inserted  some brass rods. I’m going to stick some felt over them to cover the holes.
 

 
Well that brings this build to a close. The Saturday after Thanksgiving I’ll be taking it halfway to its destination in Auburn, Alabama. My nephew is putting it in his office. Whether he likes it or not, that’s him and his family sailing:-) Thanks for all the views, likes and comments. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m up Suns Up Anchor’s Up and setting sail on another day of boiler and steam engine work. Without the engine and no wind and occasionally getting caught in the irons (with a very demanding 20 year old granddaughter) work must be done. Turning my attention to finishing the steam boiler! 

I had a full shop at my house. I have 14 British cars from Healy’s Triumps  MGS Jaguars but my favorite is a 97 Land Rover Defender. I don’t do it anymore since I am 77 and can’t get off the floor Glad to see you restored a TR6. I am sure you enjoyed it. I got most of my cars when people just said get them out of here. I find collecting cars art and ship building an affliction! Guess I should see a shrink. I won a bunch of shows and people wanted me to restore their cars. I REFUSED!!  A soon as you take money the fun is gone!
We ha a lot in common. Building model ships and car restoration are both creative and give a great deal of pleasure and pride. We also like the stain color. 
Thanks Terry I will have to look up your steam launch build. 

As Always Best Rick

No it's not.

The typeface of the queries looks to be the style used by computers 20 years ago.  What computer and operating system is being used.  We've had to buy newer computers along the way as things get more sophisticated in our increasingly technological world, as may commercial websites don't work well on old machines/operating systems ... or simply don't work al all.  'Used to be that a home computer was considered obsolete at 10 years old.  Now its looking like 5 !  Our "new" Mac Mini with Sequoia OS 15 has been set NOT to automatically install operating systems (or updates) and also NOT even to download them ... these are two separate functions.  Still, we're now bugged to install the new OS 26 ... still quite 'buggy' and subject to revisions already.  We may still opt for stable revisions of OS 15, but are loathe to risk OS 26 ... until 'forced' to by the inevitable 'wheel of progress' designed to make you buy a new computer.
  Once upon a time,  a person only needed one typewriter (kids don't know what those were) that would last them their entire life, and then be passed on to a son or daughter.

At this point, the topsides was substantially complete, so TWILIGHT was once again toted over to the friends' pool in order to take accurate measurements of her actual loaded waterline location.  When I had first floated the model without the top hamper, she weighed 18.5 lbs.  For the second (more complete) floatation test, she was again weighed and the scale settled at 23.4 lbs.  The latest test demonstrated that the WL should be painted 1/2" above the initial DWL.

The laser level was again utilized to connect the measured points at the bow and stern and a fresh upper line was marked.  Masking tape and film were used to shield the topsides from overspray, the hull was sanded and wiped down prior to giving the bottom a fresh coat of bottom paint.

The re-painting of the bottom highlighted the fact that the topsides of the hull also needed some attention to remove scratches, fingerprints and varnish/epoxy drips. Lots of additional taping and sanding were required in preparation. Once this portion had been painted, Vicky's steadier hands were again brought into play to paint the trim color on the cabin top beadings.  And to complete the saga of taping, I masked around the portions of the topsides where a fresh set of TWILIGHT's name decals were to be applied over gold painted "badges".  The application of the decals followed and when they were dry, a couple of light coats of clear flat acrylic were sprayed on to help seal them from the water.

Finally, the layers of the cocoons were stripped away.

To finish up mounting R/C switches, I built a small double-sided cabinet to fit between between the pilothouse and the main cabin. The forward face into the pilot house contains a wet foulie locker while the aft face of the cabinet incorporated bookshelves and that final switch, which controls the running lights, occupies a corner of the top.

One evening, the interior lighting and the running lights were tested. (My camera had difficulties focussing with this level of light - my apologies!)
Just imagine that it is the view looking aft on a slightly foggy night  😉 .

Scale crew members arrived to be experimented with for placement locations.

And to finish this update, here is a photo, taken a couple of days ago, with TWILIGHT posed in front of the initial Profile drawing of some years back.

We are awaiting a calm break in the weather to put the model in the salt chuck for some sea trials. Assuming all goes well, she will then return to the boat shop to permit the fitting of the main cabin joinery.
 
Thanks again for your welcome support,
 
Cheers,  Craig
 

It is, Keith. Not sure where I want to start, every side is a challenge.

For the strapping on the oak wood I plan on using satin black pinstripe in place of painted card stock. It’s on order and waiting for it to come in. 
 

Had a lazy day today and stayed in port and worked on my steam boiler. Tricky day today requiring soldering valves and painting. If you are wondering the matt black is again Liquitex Basic Acrylic Fluid color “Mars Black”. It is a very heavy opaque pigmented black made from iron oxide and gives a great matt finish.  By the way 1-2-3 blocks definitely come in handy. 
Since it is a lazy day and no need to drop anchor I think  I will just lay down and take a nap on the fore deck. 
As Always Best. Rick 
 

Build Log - Day 16 (20th – 22nd Nov 2025)
 
Task 36 – Adding one planking layer
I thought I would share, in detail, the method which I am now using to fit the second layer of planks.
 
Step 1 – Creating a paper template for the lateral bend
A piece of paper is folded underneath the plank. I then use a pencil to trace the required bend, as shown in the photo below. Next I cut along the pencil line and this becomes the template for the lateral bend.

Step 2 – Tapering the plank
Using the various bulkhead measurements taken when creating the banding areas, I use my digital callipers to mark the required widths. You will note, in the photo below, I also have a guide plank to indicate the positions of the various bulkheads.
 
Step 3 – Lateral bend of the plank
Once the taper has been applied the plank is then laterally bent. The paper template is used to set the required curve, as shown in the next photo. Water is brushed on to the plank and a hair dryer is used to apply the heat.
Step 4 – Test Fit
Once the plank has been bent as per the template it is test fitted. As can be seen in the next photo the plank sits flush with the previous plank without any force added. The plank is then cut to the required length as per the 4-butt shift pattern.
Step 5 – Gluing the plank
Glue is applied to the hull, using the following attachment to the super glue container. This attachment has proved to be an invaluable asset in this respect.

I brush some water on the underside of the plank to aid the adhesive with the ca glue. The plank is then carefully fitted, working from the stem post. I am happy with how this plank (still damp) looks, once glued in place.
Step 6 – Midships Plank
The midships plank is cut to size, a slight bevel is applied to the top edge. Glue is then added to the hull before the damped plank is fitted. The red arrows shows the 4-butt shift joints.

Step 7 – Stern Post Plank
This is the plank that takes the most effort to fit. With the plank in position, as shown below, the underside is marked where the sharp bend to the lower stern counter pattern starts.

The bend area is then wetted and a bend applied. I usually start with a gentle manipulation with my hand to get the start of the bend. Next I use a bottle to complete the task. A hairdryer is used when the plank is being bent around the bottle.

The bent plank fit is then checked, as shown below. The bend looks OK. The pencil dot is where the plank need to terminate with the stern counter.

Using the pencil mark on the plank I use the following template to cut the correct angle.

The next photo shows the stern post plank prior to fitting.

The dampened plank is then glued in position. This time I work from the stern post to the midships to ensure I get a good join with the stern counter. Apart from one plank (red arrow), where I worked from midships to stern counter when the plank was fitted, I am really pleased with how the joints with the stern counter looks.  

As can be seen in the final photo of this post the remaining stern counter gap to fill is exactly one full planks width which is ideal.

Thanks @JKC27! It would be great to see your Spitfire build(s) here (if you feel up to it)!
 
So my experiment seems to have worked!
 

 
I think that looks fairly good as a worn walkway. Admittedly, it looks a little stark, given the lack of weathering on the rest of the airplane, but that will be fixed in time. 
 
After I had put down a layer of primer, I hit the wing root area(s) with a shot of Tamiya aluminium from a rattle can. I was counting on the Tamiya paint drying to its usual relatively hard finish. The Vallejo acrylics dry (initially) very soft, so I gently started scraping away the acrylic paint with a bamboo skewer to expose the Tamiya paint underneath. I initially smoothed the edges out with some ultra fine grit sandpaper, following that I dry brushed on some Floquil aged silver (a very close match for the Tamiya Aluminium) so further soften and blend the edges. This all has to be done before I overcoat the whole plane with Testors' Glosscoat, as the enamel will make it too hard to scratch anything off easily. 
 

 
The reason I used this technique is that I don't have any chipping fluid or other substitute in my stash, and I had seen this used to good effect by Youtube modeller Plasmo.
 
This morning I turned my attention to the exhaust pipes. If there's one thing that looks off about this kit, I would say that this these are it. Looking at the plethora of prototype photos, the Airfix exhaust pipes stick out way too far.... almost like a set of canards. They really ruin the lines of the airplane. You can see above how far they stick out! 
 
Luckily the fix is fairly simple, and some careful work with an aggressive file had my exhaust pipes looking mush better!
 

 
On the right, in the above photo is the unmodified part, quite a difference when compared to the treated pipes on the left!
 

 
Both sets of pipes have now been given the same treatment, and I think things are looking much improved!
 
Up next will be some final paint touch-ups (kind of an ongoing thing), then a layer of gloss and decals. 
 
Thanks for the kind comments and likes, as always they are very much appreciated!
 
Andy

Hello everyone!
 
Just a quick update from me:
 
As I'm having a lot of problems with the rigging, I've been reading a lot here in the forum over the last few days and looking around on the internet. I've tried out various things (new techniques) and came across a great book that I'd like to recommend here.
 
Thomas Gropp has illustrated and described every rope in detail across 260 pages. It's a fantastic piece of work, for which I can only thank him. Because I've finally found the guide that will help me with the Victory plans. 
 
I've decided to redo some parts of my model. Not everything, but some things that I'm not happy with. 
 
Anyone who's interested can order the book from a...zon. I can highly recommend it!
 
Best regards and have a nice weekend!
-Heinz-

Working on the fittings and deck furniture..  
 
The big question is what to do with the cannon rigging...  really want to do it to learn but this is the first time so a bit daunting.  I bought some hooks, .6 mm and .3 mm rope, and 2 mm boxwood single sheave blocks from Syren (based on recommendations here).  (6 blocks per gun, 6 hooks..)  also bought Tiny Photo Etch Eye Pin 1:48 - 24/set to have breeching lines pass through those but now contemplating if I will use them or not..  
 
trying to figure out now what would be the easiest way to rig the cannons doable for a beginner...  easiest configuration while still semi-historic.. do i hook the end one to the eye pin on the deck and if not do i leave it out altogether or put to the side...  Would anyone have suggestions on the overall approach?  would really appreciate if others had any advice...

Just thanking everyone for following my Cheerful log with all the comments and likes.

Lol ,I knew if I put her in the display case  everyone would think I have finished  her. NO, lol knot by a long shot. I have finished  the standing rigging,  now I have to do the running  rigging. 
I hanged a black cloth so you could see the lines. They are .1mm for the most part.

Fourteen  lines run so far, I am getting  confused quite often,  the lines cross on the plans then hook up to the main  shroud, run through  a double bloock out the back and tied off at the righr number. Lol if you understood  that , you know what I am talking about lol.   I jjust have to do it one line at a time , but I will get there. 

The plan has some interesting diagrams  that I can make no sence  of, yet.

Still lots of lines go to the Bowsprit,  but it's a little  frustrating  so I am going to start at the stren and work my way forward to the  frustrating part  lol.
  Thanks for the kind word, you guys are too forgiving lol. So just to clear  things up , no I am knot  finished,  Kurt is the Viking  Builder  , Bob M. Is my name and Knocklouder,  well what can I say ,  😁 .
  The journey  is not over, just yet.
 
Bob .  M.

Wow, that came out fantastic!!  Really nicely done man!  With winter I think I can get back down in the workshop and will dust off my Pegasus - your build is very inspirational!

John, it's only complication is trying to add all the components required in a 1.8 x 3.5 inch space. 
 
 Thank you, James. For me, research is the necessary bane of scratch building subjects never modeled before.  I'd much rather just start building a thing with an eye to the finish. 
 
 Thank you, Paul. A man, wife, mother- in-law, and six kids living in a 14 x 19 foot space, looking happy and in seemingly in good health.  What every happened to a simple existence and the happiness derived from it?  
 
 I'm about to order a copy once I finish complete this post. Thank you for the tip, Eric. 
 
You know what I mean. 
 
 Thank you, Eric. There's no plank bending or rigging on Billy with the exception of the wheels and arches, it's all straight lines. That's why these workboats are perfect subjects for a hack like myself.