Ryland Craze

These are a different kind of block Glenn.  These are for much later vessels...1850's through 1900 and beyond.   Not the old school stuff you are building.
 
These blocks would be used on say the Bluenose or any such vessel as those.  
 
Chuck

Yes but it doesnt always work depending on the product shape.  For example, the internally stropped blocks need to have the iron parts painted anyway.    When you cant use mass coloring techniques for large batches because of the shape of the parts,  getting the correct color is more challenging.   If I were making a few one offs for myself then no problem.  I could condition the resin part for easy colorization.  But....mass dyeing is not an option.  At least not for getting the results you would want.   Going with a dark Pear color is easy but trying to get a non-plastic looking Boxwood color is more problematic if you have a weird shape.  Hence the paintwork and finishing.  Its easy as pie actually.... and once folks see how its done they will have so many more possibilities with all the resin parts now available.   I just wish mfgs would stop printing stuff in that cheap gray color.   If you want it to look like wood you absolutely have to start with a tan resin and one that is super strong and has the right surface properties after curing.   
 
Chuck

Probably...I am thinking of doing something new with this capstan project...and the internally stropped blocks.
 
There are a lot of folks who have 3d printers and a laser cutter these days.  So I am thinking about doing a group project here at MSW and releasing all the files.  Then doing a tutorial on how to assemble the project and color the pieces.   But yes I will also mfg all the parts for folks who dont have that equipment.  Or who knows...maybe one of the group will to do that.   As I get closer to retirement I am trying to concentrate on teaching and mentoring rather than just making money.   So the Capstan Project uses a lot of laser cutting techniques that folks still dont use.   I dont know why.  Like laser cutting on both sides of a piece etc.
 
And 
 
So many parts these days are available as 3D printed parts but they have to be painted or dyed.   The internally stropped blocks need to be painted and its no different.  But many folks dont know how to make parts look like wood quickly and easily and make them look realistic.  I have to tweak the blocks to make the sheave slots a bit wider which means a day of CAD corrections but these worked out great.   I think making the stl files available and then talking about washing and curing and then finishing the parts would make a great online class.  It takes just a minute to properly paint these blocks.  So many people offer 3D printed wood parts that dont look anything like wood.  So this class would at help.   The three blocks in the foreground were finished just this morning in about 10 minutes.   The original untreated 3D prints are behind it.  It makes a world of difference.   Then we would graduate to the Capstan project...
 
The capstan project would make an excellent group project for any local club...I am hoping that at least one or two members of each local club might have the equipment and could possibly make a dozen kits for their own clubs.
 
But that is just a pipe dream at this point...
 
What do you guys think?
 
 
 

1/2" scale...
 
It will make a great desk top model.  I am sure you guys have seen the various contemporary models out there.  The "Box" or display varies.  But they are all quite nice/
 

 
 

Finally found time to finish designing internally Stropped Blocks that will be 3d printed.
 
I am not the best at CAD and as a few you know about me...I literally design most of my stuff using Tinkercad.   I outsource the complex stuff but anything that can be done with this free program meant for kids 8 to 12 years old....I am there.
 
I am doing a test printing today.  Many of my parts are made using TinkerCad and one of these days I will do a tutorial.   If you want to make parts for 3D printing and dont know real CAD like me....give it a try.  You can do about 80% of everything in this program.  You can add as much detail as you have patience for.  You will of course have to paint the metal parts black...or not.  Its up to you but its still a lot easier than building my other internally stropped blocks.

 



And below is another project I have been playing with.  No limited edition for this but it will be a nice group project for my club.  We have since completed the battlestation project and so I am now working on our next project.  Working pawl mechanism and all.  All of these parts also made using just tinkercad.  All of the hard parts are no designed and completed.  

I got the engine block built and all of the paper parts for the cylinders cut out -- fourteen cylinders at six parts each = eighty-four parts to cut out. After that I started rolling cylinders, but I only got two done before my brain died. 🥴 
 

The coloring on this kit is really very good, and I agree that the plane has pleasing lines -- unlike, say, the SB2C, which I also have in my stash. I like the early-war light blue over gray scheme, and I already had suitable edge coloring paints left over from my F4F-4 build. The blue just needed a little lightening. The 30-pen set I purchased earlier from AK included a shade called "deck tan" which is a pretty close match for the underside gray of this kit.

Empennage is complete.
 

 
Work has started on the engine.

Hi everyone, This is Donna with Model Machines. I have not had inventory of the 4" 24- and 36-tooth carbide blades for our Byrnes Table Saw for several months and I apologize.  I know everyone has been scrambling trying to find blades so I hope this helps.  For those that are interested, I now have both the 24- and 36-tooth carbide blades in inventory and available to order on the website.

Donna

I know that people who prioritize quality and accuracy will always choose VM, as you can see from the reactions in the forums. But you'll probably lose some customers who aren't so keen on this and who will opt for a less accurate, lower-quality model (and one that seems rather hastily assembled), only because they find this model available first.
 
It is sad it's happening this way, because the development of a kit is one of the most enjoyable things to watch, but I understand your decision. 🙏

The differences seem to be mainly on the upper deck arrangements, with hatches in different positions, and the upper bulwarks slightly different, too.
 
For future developments, I shall not be so quick to plaster it all on here. Once a development is near completion, ony then shall I announce it. I would rather not do this as I too get excited telling you guys, but it seems I have little choice.

Deck Fittings
 
As an antidote to headworks, I have begun to make up some of the deck fittings or to be more accurate; to pick them up again.
I made a start a few months back while waiting for some wood and fittings to arrive but had put them away to continue with the hull.
Many of these fittings are like little mini kits and are fun to make.
 
I started with the bow platform. Made from four parts: two front panel pieces, grating support and grating. I needed to shape the front panel to fit around the waterway and chamfer the edges slightly to obtain a reasonably tight fit. I painted the panel red ochre and left the grating natural.

Next up the rudder housing. Again some sanding and shaping was required to fit the planked deck. I will add a spray cover once the housing is glued in place and the tiller arm fitted.
The bread hatch is a simple one-piece item. I used Syren hinges and kit brass eyebolts for the handle.
The companion hatch cover has some scope for some tweaks. I decided to leave the doors and hatch in the open position and used the kit PE brass parts for hinges and handles. The lid needs a ledge on which to rest when in the closed position made from 1mm square strip. Support brackets are needed to keep the lid in the open position and these were made from some brass fret bent into a curve and CA’d in place


 
Finally the skylight. The kit version with its four glazed panels looks quite chunky. I cut out the centre bar from the lids and replaced it with three bars of 1mm square strip. They are glazed with pieces of clear PES. Syren hinges complete the covers.

All these pieces are placed in position but I will leave fixing them until the carronades and guns are in place.


Thanks for looking in
David

Almost done with Chapter 2, here’s where the model is at this point, warts and all!. A few more things to wrap up and I will begin fairing the inside and getting ready for chapter 3.

 

Thank you Steve. I’m producing instructions to go along with the kit that a more detailed than my poorly assembled build log lol. 
 
Cutting two kits now. More to follow.

I began fairing the inner hull, as mentioned earlier, the bow needs to be done first in order to install the beak head beam and finish the channel wales. 
I began by cutting all the extension reenforcement hoops out with a small excel saw blade. MDF cuts like butter so this goes quick


from here I faired all the bulkheads down to the first hance piece. I faired enough of the bow aft of the beak head bulkhead beam that I won’t have to worry about coming close to that area then I finish fairing the inside. 


Now I can complete the channel wale. But before I finish that I moved onto finishing the lower garboard strake plus an additional one. With this complete I could finally add some WOP to the remaining portside hull and frames. Moving on to finish the portside gunports now and finally the last strake at the channel wale.

Chapter 2 complete (mostly)
 
I completed all construction on chapter 2.  I need to spend some more time on sanding and re-applying some wipe on poly.  Pictures below are with 2 coats applied and I didn't wait long enough between coats and the second coat softened the first coat making it too thick and glossy.
 
Down to the last strake on each side.  Showing pretty much all the tools I used for the planking.  Steel ruler, pencil, a #11 blade and a chisel blade, some sanding sticks, and a little water to use with my hand iron for edge setting.  The short scrap of plank is a critical tool used to check the width of two planks butting up to each other.

 
Last plank going in.  Marked the locations of the bullheads and transferred the dimensions using my calipers.  Then slowly sand and check the fit being careful to only remove minimal material each time.

 
I used a flashlight to backlight the planking while I was fairing the hull.  It makes it easy to see when you are getting too thin in a specific area of the hull.  On the second picture showing the stern you can see where a couple of planks have become very thin.  I've also added the stern post.

 
All chapter 2 construction complete and back on the build board.  I need to fabricate a couple more pair of supports but the model is surprisingly stable and level with just the one support midships.

 

 

 
Steve

You shouldn't miss too many. Not too long ago, the moderators went through all the build logs (an enormous task) and tagged all of the existing logs. Was it a chore? Yes, it was -- but y'all are worth it! 

When creating a new build log for myself, I usually search for other builds either on modelshipworld itself or on google by typing in the name of the model and using site:modelshipworld.com (such as "grand banks dory site:modelshipworld.com") to see how others have tagged their build logs (and try to use the tags most build logs have used). The primary way I search for other build logs of a model I'm working on is by using tags. I'm sure I've probably missed some potentially useful build logs that don't use tags.

Thanks guys…feeling much better…maybe tomorrow I will reopen.  
 
Still exhausted though.

Chuck first; us buying stuff from you second. Take the time to rest and recover, Chuck!!
 
John

Thank you @Ronald-V, @amateur, @scrubbyj427 and @wefalck for your kind words.
@wefalck: No, I did not describe the carvings. As you know it is all fake. I just press some two component putty into place and make blobs and dents with pointed and round sticks until it looks like carvings from a distance in my myopic eyes.
For the bell I heated some blister plastic and pressed the massive side of a 1.5 mm drill into it. The material gave way in a nice bell-shaped way, I just had to cut it from the sheet.
Amazing how much more time is needed to build at this scale compared with larger ones. Time and scale seem inversely proportional. There must be some law for it.

No admiral here to worry about, but I will probably try one more time, cutting the bridge wing supports, and if that doesn't work, I'll try the grilled ziplock bag sandwich method. But, for now, I decided that I'd deal with the issue of the bridge wing supports by NOT dealing with them for now. Taking a break from it, while I get a few other things done that need to be done anyway.
 
Finished making the remaining ventilators, and adding the launch. Seems odd that the kit didn't include a cradle for the boat. I fashioned something simple out of card scraps. I attached them to the boat and cut small notches in each of their corners. Then, I could use the smallest rigging line I have to tie the boat down. 
 


My only concern with the ropes on the launch is that it's going to look really heavy compared to the rest of the 'rigging' on the model. But, this is the only rope on the ship, the others are going to represent wire guys and radio antenna wires, so maybe the thick rope on the launch is okay.
 
Next, I didn't cut those bridge wing supports, but I did manage to cut these parts that required a lot of careful little tiny chops, like what Chris was describing as the Woodpecker technique. I had to use thin CA on the parts first, though. Also, I didn't laminate any of these parts.

These all went pretty much without a hitch. I was amazed at how well the crane structure turned out.

Sounds vaguely ominous! 😬

In this instance, I think any kind of doubling technique would adversely impact the scale of the part -- but your description of the process is intriguing! I can easily envision this conversation going down at the Coyle household later:
 
Mrs. Coyle: "Honey, what are you burning?"
Me: "Me? Nothing. Why?"
Mrs. Coyle: "It smells like melting Ziploc bags in here."
Me: "Hmmm. Can't imagine why." 😝
 

GradpaPhil, thanks for the explanation on the primer coating. Haven't tried that yet. With CA, I've been using thin CA to plasticize my paper parts since my first paper model 10 years ago. I've just never cut anything this thin before. I tried using the CA before I cut the part, and that seemed to work for a while, until it didn't...
 
Next, I tried laminating the part, thinking the extra layer would make the part stronger. The problem there is that the parts are so thin, when there is delaminaion, there's some tearing and some slipping of the paper that happens, leaving not much to glue back together. I'm going to try going back to a single layer card stock for this.
 
Beautiful French sailing warship, by the way!
 
 
Hi Chris, I'd never heard the name for the technique, but it makes sense, thanks. That's what I'm basically doing with the chopped single-edge razor blades. Did the same thing really when I was using a scalpel blade, but the thickness of the blade pushes parts sideways as I push the blade down on the part. I'm hoping the razor blades, being so much thinner, will reduce the sideways pressure as I chop into the part.
 
I gave up on it last night, but printed out yet another parts sheet so I can try again. Maybe a combination of the up and down strokes, using single layer card stock, and luck will lead to success this time?

And now with elevators.