Ryland Craze

It’s only a case of removing a majority of the material and not in sanding to final shape. With a hull this size, that really pays off!

Fitting Bulkhead 1
The various bow filler parts were dry fitted to the bulkhead and a test hull fit was undertaken. Next some guidelines were drawn on the bulkhead in readiness for the pre-fairing, as can seen in the first photo below, using the photo in the build manual as a reference.
 

 
Fairing guidelines were also drawn on the filler patterns.

 
Using a combination of a Ginour rotary tool, sanding sticks and sanding blocks the pre-fairing of the bulkhead was completed.

 
The completed bulkhead assembly was then added to the keel.

 
Fitting Bulkhead 18
The various stern filler parts were dry fitted to bulkhead and I started to add some guidelines.

 
After the filler patterns had been glued in place the pre-fairing of the bulkhead assembly was completed. I generally find the pre-fair of this type of bulkhead assembly much tricker than the bow assembly. I took my time and stopped to check the progress at regular intervals, and also compared with the photos in the build manual.

 
The final task was to take the 2 off stern patterns, shape and fit. There is quite of bit of sanding required to shape these patterns, I have left of bit of excess material on these patterns which can be removed during the final hull fairing later in the build process. The pattern has not, as yet, been glued to the keel in the photo below.

The thickness sander is great and makes a huge difference.  As Chuck notes, wood sorting is a pain but well worth the effort in the end.  

Dont forget to sort any hull or deck planking by color first so you dont end up having a zebra striped hull.
 
Keep any grainy or dark colored strips for areas that will be painted or not seen.

Been busy the past few days milling wood. Per Chuck’s list, I now have 200+ strips of AYC. I definitely need a Byrnes table saw, as the Micro-Mart can’t cut a straight line, I tried a lot of techniques recommended on MSW with mediocre results. Thank goodness for the Byrnes thickness sander. Now I know why strip wood is so expensive. 😏

Doing another layer of bricks every few days.

Slow but steady progress laying bricks.

After laying the first course of bricks, the 1/64 spacer was glued on.

Then, of course, lay down more bricks. After another row, the spacing looks really good.

 

That's a lot of bricks to cut out of the sheet!

The next step is to  put the brick floor inside the box. I decided to paint the bricks before gluing the sheet in place. I used automotive red oxide primer as a color.

Then to simulate the mortar, regular wall spackle was smeared on and rubbed off with a wet paper towel.
 

 

Next, a box is assembled, with the brick locations marked on the outside. Did I mention there are 800 individual bricks to glue in place?
 

The Charles W. Morgan whaling ship was launched in 1843, and is now a museum in Mystic Seaport CT. Bluejacket has made a large scale cross-section model, and also offers just the tryworks as a stand-alone model. It would make a great dislay next to a model of the entire ship.
 
Here's the plans and instructions:
 

OK, got the last 2 shrouds done, now working on the foretopmast stays.

Post 15
 
The next stage is fitting the Capping rails, this will secure the frame tops and stiffen the frames further.
I reduced the frame depths a little at the sheer before I added the rails which went on without any issues.

0331
I fixed the bow section first followed by the aft, centring the rail along the sheer.

0333
This is a fairly painless exercise, just need to ensure that the rails sit right down on the sheer and a tight join at the centre is achieved. A slight bevelling  where the rail fits beneath the transom was required.

0335
 I love the run of the sheer on this model.

0338

0340

0342

0341

0336

0343

0345
Fairly satisfied with progress thus far, but a somewhat more testy aspect looms.
 
B.E.
06/03/2023
 

Another quick update to this little side project. I have now: 
- attached the rings to the wales to secure the shrouds
- painted the sprits and attached them to the masts and sails
- brailed up the sails
- rigged the masts off the boat 
- fashioned hooks for the lower shroud blocks from black wire, and attached the blocks to them
- glued the aft mast in place
- rigged its forestay and shrouds
 
I still need to belay the brail lines to their respective pins, and then I'll move on to the foremast. The sheet lines will be the last ones I rig. I'm still trying to decide exactly how I'll do that. I've been looking at some of the modern replicas of Bounty's launch, and thinking I might add belaying pins to the stern cap rail to belay the sheets. 
 
My intention is that the sails should look as if they have just been briefly taken in while the boat pulls up alongside the speedy, perhaps for a figure to be climbing up the side ladder. So I don't want the sails to be fully furled, which I think for a spritsail rig involves removing the sprit from the snotter that secures it to the mast, and then tying the sail tightly around the mast. I've never attached sails to a model before, so this has been educational. 
 

Look's like a lot of rope makers wanted this thread! Thank you for your orders.
 
I've added two more E121 186 Tan spools to the store's inventory. I'm nearly out of stock on a few others. Im going to order some more today from A&E, it should take 2-3 weeks to get delivered.
 
 

Joining the ever growing throng following this epic build log, it's going to be fascinating.  And it has to be said, Chris Watton has raised the bar on kit quality so high, other manufacturers must respond, or be left behind - surely this can only be a good thing?

id perfer to be the Lewis, but im not in a race lol, however this does go together so very well, it will of course slow down soon, with planking

Kevin,
You’re the Max Verstappen of MSW. First Past The Build Log Post! Zooming along nicely…

Yes, those beams will just be discarded later. They do a nice job of keeping the bulwarks at the correct width during planking. 

good evening everyone
thank you for comments and likes, very much appreciated
 
the inner bulkhead liners are now fitted, there are another two, to fill a blank space, if i get the chance i will put them on tonight, otherwise they will remain off until completion of sanding the outer hull
 
8 temporary beams are inserted to ensure the everything stays in place whilst sand in the hull, i think they are discarded at a later date


 
today was also spent putting on 4 profiles that accurately space the upper deck beams, another clever idea, apart from skimming the tops of the inner bulkhead liners to stop any fouling, this never caused any concerns at all

 
prior to gluing the profiles in place i removed the beams to check the alignment once this has dried the beams will be removed to safe place and put on again later on after deck planking

 
 
 

When I started my last Indy build log I realised that I should have included some earlier build photos. Rather than post them out of sequence (OCD or what) I decided to delete and start again, sorry for the confusion. You will also note I have changed my user name to Glenn–UK.
 
Please find attached my first set of photos which represents what I achieved during week 1 of the build process.
 
Photo 1 - The temporary build cradle

Photow 2 & 3- Fitting bulkheads to keel


Photos 4 and 5 - Taken to check the bulkheads are correctly fitted
You will note there are 2 x bulkhead 9's which will aid the planking process later on in the build process.

Photo 6 & 7 - Fitting side keel patterns
These keel side patterns are held in place with locating keys. This ensures these parts are correctly positioned when fitted.

Photo 8 - Orlop Deck

Photo 9  & 10 - Lower deck hatches and ladder.
The ladder photo was taken before the ladder side decorative patterns were fitted. Laser char was removed from the visible edges.

Photo 11 - Test fit of lower deck
There are two sections fore and aft. Locating keys will be pushed through some of the bulkheads to ensure the lower deck sections are held in position.

Photo 12 & 13 - Lower deck hatches and ladder fitted after deck pattern fitted

Photo 14 - Gun deck beams installed

 
 

To finish up the bow timbers I had two more to go.  The first of those was done exactly like the previous three.  But the last one is a bit different.  The filler that closes the gap is just a little bit different.
 
Step one is the same.   Shape the angle that will fit against the cant frame.  No biggie there.  There is a laser reference line for that just like the others.  But that is the only reference line laser etched.
 
Once shaped to fit against the cant frame,  test it on the model.  It should fir pretty good.   Then you need to take a sharp pencil and draw the next reference line yourself.  Just trace the shape of the cant frame edge onto to the filler as shown.  This will be your outboard hull reference.  Use that line and bevel just as you did in step two for the previous bow timbers.
 

 
It will look like this when you bevel and clean it up with a sanding stick.
 

You dont have to bevel the inboard edge.  We will need to trace that in pencil against the cant frame too.  But that is kind of tricky at this stage.  Once you take a look inside there you will understand.  There really isnt much to bevel inboard actually.   It is best to just leave the inboard side as is until after we remove all of the jigs and fair the inboard side later.  That will be done after planking.
 
But now you can go ahead and fair the outside bow timbers.  Fair them into the cant frames nicely.  Use a long batten to check how true and smooth the run of planks will be.  You dont want any dips.   Dont be afraid to really sand it good with coarse sandpaper first and then switch to a finer grit on your last pass.
 
You will notice that the bow timbers are too high and the tops should be trimmed down to match the sheer.   That can be done after fairing outboard.  Almost done fairing outboard below.  The tops of the bow timbers have been trimmed down as well.
 

How do you know where to trim down the head timbers?  Well you could measure up from your build board using the plans.  But I decided to take some considerable time to create a template.  Its quite an extensive template actually.   Basically its an expansion drawing to scale that shows every last detail of the outboard hull fittings.   
 
This includes the run of the planks at the bow and all ports....swivel stocks...scuppers and fixed blocks and channels with deadeyes....etc.
 
The bottom of this helpful template represents the top edge of the upper wales.  This is in fact how we will transfer the correct lines for the wales later.   But you can also use it to check the positions of all ports and also trim down the bow timbers to the sheer.  Just make sure you put it on both sides of the hull and have them even.
 
This template lines up at the bow based on the cheeks.  You can see on the plans how the upper cheek sits right on top of the upper wales and then transitions onto the stem.  You want to line up the cheek on the template where it will transition onto the stem.  This is important because you want to have everything line up when we work on the hawse holes and bolsters and headrails.
 
It will make locating everything quite easy I think.  I dont believe any other kit or even monograph has such a template and expansion drawing like this.  I thought I would try something new.
 
Time to start the aft cant frames...yippie!!!
 

Here is a quick look at the template.  When flat the expansion clearly shows the gentle "S" curve at the bow for planking run. I folks have a hard time getting this right so this should be a life-saver.  In fact, with all the planks at the bow now shown with their shape and taper this leaves no guesswork at all.  When the time comes we will transfer those planking lines to the frames.  No tick strips needed.   Lining off will be much easier.
 

 
 

Thanks Alan and Keith, I appreciate the input! I'm going to make the 2nd oar the same as the first and also make 2 more with Holly or basswood to simulate weathered ash. Also going to wrap some thin cut leather around each as shown on photos.  Getting back to work after a long weekend near the Blueridge Mts.   Tim

Work with me on this, Alan. Tim did such a fine job making the one oar, I'm trying to suggest to him in a subtle way to make one more just like the first one and move on. Tim, use any excuse necessary to keep from redoing nice work.