Ryland Craze

id perfer to be the Lewis, but im not in a race lol, however this does go together so very well, it will of course slow down soon, with planking

Kevin,
You’re the Max Verstappen of MSW. First Past The Build Log Post! Zooming along nicely…

Yes, those beams will just be discarded later. They do a nice job of keeping the bulwarks at the correct width during planking. 

good evening everyone
thank you for comments and likes, very much appreciated
 
the inner bulkhead liners are now fitted, there are another two, to fill a blank space, if i get the chance i will put them on tonight, otherwise they will remain off until completion of sanding the outer hull
 
8 temporary beams are inserted to ensure the everything stays in place whilst sand in the hull, i think they are discarded at a later date


 
today was also spent putting on 4 profiles that accurately space the upper deck beams, another clever idea, apart from skimming the tops of the inner bulkhead liners to stop any fouling, this never caused any concerns at all

 
prior to gluing the profiles in place i removed the beams to check the alignment once this has dried the beams will be removed to safe place and put on again later on after deck planking

 
 
 

When I started my last Indy build log I realised that I should have included some earlier build photos. Rather than post them out of sequence (OCD or what) I decided to delete and start again, sorry for the confusion. You will also note I have changed my user name to Glenn–UK.
 
Please find attached my first set of photos which represents what I achieved during week 1 of the build process.
 
Photo 1 - The temporary build cradle

Photow 2 & 3- Fitting bulkheads to keel


Photos 4 and 5 - Taken to check the bulkheads are correctly fitted
You will note there are 2 x bulkhead 9's which will aid the planking process later on in the build process.

Photo 6 & 7 - Fitting side keel patterns
These keel side patterns are held in place with locating keys. This ensures these parts are correctly positioned when fitted.

Photo 8 - Orlop Deck

Photo 9  & 10 - Lower deck hatches and ladder.
The ladder photo was taken before the ladder side decorative patterns were fitted. Laser char was removed from the visible edges.

Photo 11 - Test fit of lower deck
There are two sections fore and aft. Locating keys will be pushed through some of the bulkheads to ensure the lower deck sections are held in position.

Photo 12 & 13 - Lower deck hatches and ladder fitted after deck pattern fitted

Photo 14 - Gun deck beams installed

 
 

To finish up the bow timbers I had two more to go.  The first of those was done exactly like the previous three.  But the last one is a bit different.  The filler that closes the gap is just a little bit different.
 
Step one is the same.   Shape the angle that will fit against the cant frame.  No biggie there.  There is a laser reference line for that just like the others.  But that is the only reference line laser etched.
 
Once shaped to fit against the cant frame,  test it on the model.  It should fir pretty good.   Then you need to take a sharp pencil and draw the next reference line yourself.  Just trace the shape of the cant frame edge onto to the filler as shown.  This will be your outboard hull reference.  Use that line and bevel just as you did in step two for the previous bow timbers.
 

 
It will look like this when you bevel and clean it up with a sanding stick.
 

You dont have to bevel the inboard edge.  We will need to trace that in pencil against the cant frame too.  But that is kind of tricky at this stage.  Once you take a look inside there you will understand.  There really isnt much to bevel inboard actually.   It is best to just leave the inboard side as is until after we remove all of the jigs and fair the inboard side later.  That will be done after planking.
 
But now you can go ahead and fair the outside bow timbers.  Fair them into the cant frames nicely.  Use a long batten to check how true and smooth the run of planks will be.  You dont want any dips.   Dont be afraid to really sand it good with coarse sandpaper first and then switch to a finer grit on your last pass.
 
You will notice that the bow timbers are too high and the tops should be trimmed down to match the sheer.   That can be done after fairing outboard.  Almost done fairing outboard below.  The tops of the bow timbers have been trimmed down as well.
 

How do you know where to trim down the head timbers?  Well you could measure up from your build board using the plans.  But I decided to take some considerable time to create a template.  Its quite an extensive template actually.   Basically its an expansion drawing to scale that shows every last detail of the outboard hull fittings.   
 
This includes the run of the planks at the bow and all ports....swivel stocks...scuppers and fixed blocks and channels with deadeyes....etc.
 
The bottom of this helpful template represents the top edge of the upper wales.  This is in fact how we will transfer the correct lines for the wales later.   But you can also use it to check the positions of all ports and also trim down the bow timbers to the sheer.  Just make sure you put it on both sides of the hull and have them even.
 
This template lines up at the bow based on the cheeks.  You can see on the plans how the upper cheek sits right on top of the upper wales and then transitions onto the stem.  You want to line up the cheek on the template where it will transition onto the stem.  This is important because you want to have everything line up when we work on the hawse holes and bolsters and headrails.
 
It will make locating everything quite easy I think.  I dont believe any other kit or even monograph has such a template and expansion drawing like this.  I thought I would try something new.
 
Time to start the aft cant frames...yippie!!!
 

Here is a quick look at the template.  When flat the expansion clearly shows the gentle "S" curve at the bow for planking run. I folks have a hard time getting this right so this should be a life-saver.  In fact, with all the planks at the bow now shown with their shape and taper this leaves no guesswork at all.  When the time comes we will transfer those planking lines to the frames.  No tick strips needed.   Lining off will be much easier.
 

 
 

Thanks Alan and Keith, I appreciate the input! I'm going to make the 2nd oar the same as the first and also make 2 more with Holly or basswood to simulate weathered ash. Also going to wrap some thin cut leather around each as shown on photos.  Getting back to work after a long weekend near the Blueridge Mts.   Tim

Work with me on this, Alan. Tim did such a fine job making the one oar, I'm trying to suggest to him in a subtle way to make one more just like the first one and move on. Tim, use any excuse necessary to keep from redoing nice work.  

Ash would weather grey, or at least our cutter sweeps did.

Like Keith says, it's already weathered! Perhaps some additional weathering where the oars meet the boat and where hands grip the oars. Wefalk mentions grain,so another option would be to use Holly, which has very small grain.  I have a log pile outside full of small Holly logs, aged for about two years, which I'm going to try and rip on the table saw, if it ever stops raining here in Virginia. If that works, I'll have a never ending supply of that species. Thanks Tim

Using the real wood species for a model usually does not work, because the grain patterns are too coarse. For a model some wood without visible grain is more realistic.

The oar looks great and if it looks a little dark it's due to weathering.  

Thank you Keith. It's probably best I pick up a chunk of white ash. This photo of the Acadia wood shows it may be too dark.

Ash seems to be more frequently used. 

Building Bluejacket's Grand Banks Dory, I've searched with no luck for the specifications with regard to typical oar construction. I would like to scratch build them, and have already made one from Acacia wood, which is very dark. The print lays out the size, and I have read through research they were usually made of clear pine or fir. Was oak ever used for oars? Thinking about it, oak oars would be very heavy so I don't think oak was used, but that's just my thought. The kit also calls for one set but I'm seeing photos with two in the Dory. One extra set as backup for a single occupant and two for 2 occupants? Thanks, Tim

Thank you!

Well thank you very much for your kind words. Doing the build logs is also a new adventure for me. 

Very well built and handsomely documented. Very impressive photography as well! congratulations

Thank you ! the Norwegian Sailing  Pram.

Thanks

We’ll done! What’s next? 👍😀

Nicely done,     

Thank you for the compliment and for viewing my build.

Everything was going so well, and then I started what would surely be the easiest part of this whole model: putting together the building board. Based on some comments about how the board was a little flimsy, I glued a few cross pieces on the bottom to make it more sturdy. Somehow, this ended up slightly warping the board from end to end. I tried to fix it with some weights and water, and then it warped in a different, unexpected way, then I flattened it out again and it looks better. If I'm lucky, assembling the building board will be the most frustrating part of this build.   I made some adjustments to the build board with tape and small strips of wood so both transoms would sit square to the building board; neither was flat against the board as initially assembled.   Sanding the the bevels on the bottom planks wasn't hard, it just took some time and care, stopping often to check out the remaining char.    I bent the keel and bottom planks on the build board and forms, using hot water to soften them.   It took some time to figure out the gluing strategy for the bottom planks - the bow transom moved around a little on its support, and there are three points of gluing that have to be lined up: the planks need to come in centered, glued to the transom while touching, and the bottom of the transom knee needs to be centered and glued.   I drew marks on the knee and transom to indicate the centers, and aligned those while gluing. I held the planks, transom, and knee with my fingers while gluing, because it would have been too hard to line up and hold everything perfectly together using rubber bands or clamps. I tried to sight along the center line to make sure the knee was in the right place.   When the glue was initially dry, I put a rubber band on to hold it in place for a few hours while it dried.     The transom is loosely held in place with rubber bands, and that means some effort is needed to make it line up properly for gluing. The transom knee eventually needs to glue squarely to the keel plank, which means the bottom of the knee needs to be flush with the bottoms of the bottom planks. My strategy was to hold a piece of scrap across the two bottom planks, and press up from underneath with another finger to register the knee flat to the scrap piece, and thus even with the bottom plank surfaces. Holding it this way (I think!) makes the transom meet the bottom planks at the right angle, and sets up the right surfaces for the keel plank.     I noticed after inspecting the bottom planks that there isn't a perfect alignment of their surfaces with the rectangular transom cut-out that the keel plank is glued to - the cut-out was too shallow.      Some options: Put a very thin piece of wood in there to build it up, then do the same to the knee so that everything continues to be level and straight Unglue it and sand down the transom more to create the appropriate shoulder. Step 2, but don't take as much off. Then, sand the bottom planks a little to try to bring them in line with the shoulder. Plan to use filler.   I chose option 1. I sanded down some very thin basswood strips with a sanding stick, then cut them to size to cover the necessary parts.     After gluing those in place, I re-glued the bottom planks, holding them the same way as before. This looks a lot better, and should help avoid filler later.            

I have started the case. Milled up some white ash and walnut. The case will be 42 x 13 x 14. Using my Shaper Origin I am going to I set my Pegasus Stands about 3/8 inch into the Ash and then carve the name on both sides. I think this is going to be a real nice case. I actually felt lazy so I asked a guy that does this for a living to give me a quote. Came in over $500 plus almost $200 for shipping in a knockdown configuration. So much for lazy wood ran about $100. Here are some photos of current status. Will update as I move along.