Ryland Craze

Here are the results: one side with shellac, one side without (and pictures of the names of the wood).

Of possible interest to ship-making folks: I just finished an experiment regarding the fading of wood. I took a number different types of wood and coated one side with a finish, shellac in this case (via French polish) and kept them in a closed box once everything was stable, dry, etc. Fast forward 25 years to the time of Covid. I pulled out the wood samples and covered one half with painters tape and put in a window for about a year to see how much the wood would fade.

Little by little…

Nothing as nice as Gregory's idea. I just pinched them between my fingers and drew my sanding block across. I used 180 grit paper. I used a block or sanding stick instead of just sandpaper to avoid my rounding of the edges too much.
 

 
First, I went across the truck rotating after each pass, draw it across, repeat for maybe two full circles.
 

 
Then I went with the truck doing the same thing until it was clean enough. There was always a couple of spots that don't come perfectly clear but that's ok. I think it adds depth to it.
 

 
 
 
Thanks Matt. From the aft mast to the front of the forward hatch I made a straight line with pin striping tape. Aliened the eye bolts and drilled according to the plans. The bolts around the stove, forward mast and in the cabins were marked as close to the plans as I could get. Note that all the smaller rings and bolts alien with the center of the corresponding gunport. A good way to check your placement.
 
Thank you, Frank and Ben, and also for all the likes!

Whew 24 cannons and carriages completed! They are just set in place to see how they look. I now
have to add a whole bunch (96) split rings and eye bolts to the bulwarks and then fasten the carriages
to the deck. I have decided to follow Chuck and Mikes lead and not use any rigging.
 

 

 

Thank you for the kind comments, Matt, Steven, Tom, and Mustafa!
 
The main wales have now been glued, sanded flush, then I chamfered the edges. Once that was completed, I painted the wales black  and used Tamiya yellow masking tape on neighboring planks. The tape was amazing, very minimal seepage of paint onto the wood. I will be using this tape for all painting from now 👍
 
The black paint (which was bought with the kit) was diluted with some water before painting. I sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between each coat. For the last two coats, I buffed out the painted area with a lint free cloth 15-30 mins after I applied the paint.
 
I thinned down the thickness of the wale at the stern, and also at the stem so that it is flush with surrounding planks.
 
Here are some pictures of where I am at:
 

















Next, I will be painting at the area above the treenails. I am very confused on the colors for these sections. The options I am thinking is to (1) paint it all black as it is the safest choice, and (2) have a thin red strip between the lowest two moldings, and (3) paint with the following black, red, and blue color scheme (I found this image somewhere on MSW, but I can't remember where it was):

I am currently leaning towards the last option as this is something I have seen on lots of contemporary models (as shown below), and it will be a bit different to other Confederacy builds. Another thing to note is that red is always above blue, just something I found interesting.
 
https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66278
 
Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome!

Nice progress! If you use a Dremel to sand those frames down, make sure both the model and your hand are well-braced and steady. I kept my wrist anchored on something and only moved the tool with small motions of my fingers. Even at the slowest Dremel speed it's awfully easy for a quick jerk or slip to gouge something you don't want, or to go too far. It'll definitely make the job much easier and faster, but with a corresponding risk factor. You might even consider practicing on some scrap first (like the wood sheets from which the frames were cut) to get a feel for the pressure and steadiness needed. Can't speak to the other tool you mentioned. 

Finally back at it! I hope everyone is having a great new year. I think Im going to end up being a winter only ship modeler......
The longboat is back on the bench and I have completed the planking. Its been said before by others, but its worth repeating this doesn't seem like a beginner kit. No problem though I have learned a lot and Im happy with the result. After the first sanding it has cleaned up nicely. I intend to use a tung oil finish on the inside/outside of the hull before any painting happens. Anybody see a problem with that plan? 
 
The sanding of the frames is the next challenging task. I started by carefully chiseling/hand sanding, and quickly found the need for different tools. I ordered the dremel 2050-15 stylo any ideas on a preferred bit for getting to the frames effectively? I also see the MicroLux Micro Sander on the Micromark website. I haven't ordered that yet was hoping someone else could speak to the usefulness of this tool.
 
I was considering moving forward with later parts of the build while I wait for tools/paints to arrive. I just happen to have a NIB HM Cutter Mermaid 1817 sitting in front of me so...............

Nope. Call it a purposeful deviation. I think the P&G’s, polished and with an obvious brass metallic sheen contrasted nicely with the copper. I’m a chemist, and I’m not entirely certain that copper (a soft metal) was used in the P&G’s. Anodic/cathodic reactions would occur due to impurities in the metals available in that age regardless of whether they were the same metals or not. So I’m more inclined to believe they may have been bronze. 
 
The copper plating and brass P&G’s will oxidize and take on a different patina. 
 
Either way, they look good and the idea of blackening never touched my awareness!  😁

FYI…and the rudder is easily removed and installed as needed which was my ultimate goal. 👍🏽

Ok. Got my gudgeons in…I’m not certain how others make/line up/install there P&G’s, but this part of the build is really intimidating to me. So I put a lot of preparation into how I would avoid bruising the copper. That was my biggest concern!
 
So… here was my ridiculous approach to mounting these suckers. 
 
First, I put in the ‘pins’ into the pintles on the rudder:  
 

 
Next, I sanded in a slight bevel into the inner edge of each side of the gudgeons. Imagine snow skis. I wanted the gudgeons to slide across the sternpost without grabbing/scratching the copper foil. 
 

 
Then, I slid the gudgeon onto the stem post, using the tiny nail head I had placed into the post as an abutment to keep them from sliding. If you recall, when I test fit the P&G’s, I put in tiny nails (used in installing the P&G’s) as markers. They can’t really be seen and the copper easily wrapped around them. 
 

 
Then I lined up the gudgeons with the pintles and inserted the nails. 
 

 
The end result is pretty nice. 👍🏽 The copper plating was unscathed, and the rudder was cleanly aligned. 
 

 

 
The only minor discrepancy which my eye sees immediately is the fact that the bottom of the rudder ended up about 0.5mm higher then the false keel. However, I’m totally willing to accept that little ‘wart’ considering how nicely they turned out. 
 

 

 
Miller Time!!!!
 

Hi Everyone. I hope you are all well. Thanks to all for their encouraging likes.
 
This week the catheads were made and installed. Put a pin in both of them after a couple of join failures.
 
 
 

 

 
 
The carronade carriages were made a while ago. I had bought rope from Model Expo but as you can see it has a mind of it's own if it is not under tension. Bee's wax, heat, you name it, it would not behave.  I think it got too used to being wound around  the spool. 
 

 
 
Tried some rope from Crafty Sailor.  It is three strand polyester. It looks good and is nice and relaxed. Because it is three stranded I wrapped it around the knob of the cascabel.
 
 

 
 

 
 
A piece of a 1/8 inch thick strip was glued to the front of the carriage and then glued to the spirketing. The carriage trucks end up being about a 1/16 inch away from the spirketing.  That is one complete. Still not sure about adding the tackles.
 

 
 
Took some time to think about a display case.  Picked up some extruded aluminum 1/4 round T-slot channel and tri-corner brackets thinking that it would be an easy way to make a case.  Oops, who would have thought that the slots aren't continuous around the corners.  Filed away some of the registration tabs to see if an acrylic panel with it's corners relieved would look alright. This product certainly isn't meant for the use I wanted it for.
 

 
 
Might be able to figure out this case by next week.
 
Paul
 
.

I sanded the bulkheads more, got them pretty even, somewhere between 1/32 and 3/64 inch.  I would have liked to get them thinner but didn’t want to break them and I got tired of sanding.  I did sand down the stanchions wood a little thinner.
Now to the deck, I still might have more of a hump in the middle than I should but it seems like the wood is really hard compared to the outer sides of the deck.  I made a copy of the drawing and cut out the deck little larger, so I could fit it to the actual model by trimming it down.  Then transferred it to the scribed deck material.  Started cutting out the aft deck a little larger than required and sanded the edges down until it fit with a minor gap.

 

Making a little progress on the Winnie. 

Nice! Good job.

Thanks for sharing these photos Eric. I really like your finishing choices.
Nice job!
 
Ron

Well done! Your final result looks great.

I seem to have stopped taking pictures at this point, but did get a few shots of the final product.  On to the Norwegian Sailing Pram.  Thanks to Model Shipways for a fun project that has me excited for the next model in the series.

There were a number of times where I felt like the planks weren’t lining up and I couldn’t figure out a way to tie it all together, but I stuck to it and eventually got the boat planked up.

I felt frustrated to not be able to line everything up but found that a bit of patience and some sanding takes the imperfections out.

The instructions are clear and it wasn’t long before I found myself getting ready to set my first plank

Hi – I’m Eric and this is my first post to the site.  I’m primarily a plastic modeler – boats, cars, armor, airplanes – but have long had an interest in wooden boats/ships.  I fell prey to buying a couple of kits that were way beyond my abilities before deciding on a kit that was more appropriate and bought the Dory.
I meant to create a thread while building the model but only took pictures and did not post any updates.  I got so much help from the completed builds, however, that I felt that I wanted to share some of the pictures of my Dory build.

 

Dear Clare, Thank you for posting the youtube videos of your models from Brooks' studies. They are very beautiful, and exceptionally well done.  I had been thinking of making one from his book, but am over-extended with other projects.  Someday!  Best, Harvey

Thanks for the comments Ian. You're probably right. If I don't want it too bulky looking, I could try thinning down those strips. They're laser cut, so that might be a bit tricky. Then again, I can probably use my own stripwood, as there is another modification I've been planning on where using my own stripwood will probably be easiest.
 
Appreciate the suggestion!

Lovely, Claire! I can almost smell the wood shavings....