Keith_W

That's enough!!! Less talking, more sawdust! 

PROXXON DSH 2 SPEED SCROLL SAW – REVIEW.
This is the second of my recent new toy purchases, and this review as with that for the Band Saw is written from the point of view of a user new to these machines. 
Unlike the Band Saw there’s no picking this up with one hand, it is a hefty piece of kit with a solid cast base weighing in at 20 kilos.
Actually screwing it down seems superfluous; in my use thus far on a non slip surface it stays where you put it.
 

I again purchased the machine from:-
http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/scroll_saws/Proxxon_28092_2-speed_scroll_saw_DSH_i2477_42308.htm
Excellent service, ordered on 26 February, delivered on 28 February and again with a significant cost saving over the UK equivalent supplier.
 
Setting up
The machine was pre fitted with a blade and to get it up and running only required tilting the table to horizontal, and fitting the suction nozzle.

A check with the spirit level and square ensures everything is ok.
The machine comes with five spare blades of coarse and fine each.
Changing the blade was simplicity itself, both pinned and pinless blades can be used, but so far I have only used pinned blades.
I found it much easier than the band saw to get the right tension on the blade.  A non flat ‘ping’ when plucked indicates you are there.
 

There is a clear plastic blade guard which clips into place. This way for protecting the blade when the machine is not in use.
 

This way when working the machine. A little more fiddly getting the guard into place in its working mode. It is spring loaded in this position intended to also act as a foot to help hold the work piece to the table.
 
I thought the instruction book somewhat vague on setting up the guard but it gave dire warnings about using the machine without it.
Please note that the saw blade guard is an important safety tool and the saw may not be operated without it  but then goes onto say that:
The following describes activities in which the guard may be disassembled expediently but it must be clearly noted that the guard must be mounted again when this work is complete. Operation without this important safety accessory is not permitted.
In my opinion the guard is a severe impediment to effective working, with very small pieces being too large to allow for the necessary close handling.
I looked at quite a few You tube videos concerning the use of scroll saws, some which were of great help. This one is quite misleading.


Supposingly an educational video, it makes great play of safety but shows the blade guard fitted the wrong way up, resulting in trying to work the piece from the side.
 Using the machine.
A good sized table, certainly more than adequate for the sort of modelling projects I have in mind.
The machine runs very quietly on low setting and is only slightly more noisy on the high speed setting.
I was keen to see how it would handle cutting out 1:64 scale Pinnace frames for my prototype practice build.
 

I would not be able to cut a frame like this with the guard in place. I am using stiff card for the frames, so not much of a challenge to the blade.

But the idea is to practice the scrolling.
 

This is one of the smallest frames, fits inside a 5p piece. With the guard in place it would be impossible to get close enough to support the cut edges whilst scrolling.
With such small pieces you need to work out how to approach the job as your fingers get perilously close to the blade at times.
 

Frame cutting progressing....
 

There is a blow nozzle to keep the work piece free of dust whilst scrolling, but it didn’t seem to have much blow in it!
 

The vacuum attachment is at the rear of the machine, the quietness of the machine is negated once the vacuum is switched on.
 

The large knob is used for tensioning /releasing the blade, the allan tool for removing the blade is clipped to the side of the machine. There is a narrow tray for holding spare blades.
 
Moving the machine around
Unlike all the other Proxxon modelling machines I have, the weight of this machine really dictates that a designated place for storage/working is the best option.
Whilst I can use the Mill, the wood lathe, and the band saw on my desk, and then store them away, I really don’t fancy lumping this around particularly with my slightly suspect back; the heavy cast base would cause serious damage if dropped, whether to toes or tiled floors.
Verdict.
Costing around £134 this is a lot of machine for your money. Seems well built and is smooth running, maybe not as portable as some other modelling machines, but certainly a useful addition to the modellers workshop.
 
If space and portability are important and light small scale scrolling is the requirement then the much smaller, cheaper, and significantly lighter DS230E model may suit.
 
B.E.

Heh, maybe I should say "vacuum cleaner"  
 
I built my very first model without any power tools. All I had was a box cutter, some surgical tools, sandpaper, and a file. And, I did this in a tiny apartment. I managed OK - but if I did not have a vac cleaner, my wife would have killed me! 

I don't know about this particular boat, but Billings is one of the oldest kit makers in the business. On the plus side, most of their kits are really accurate and faithful to the original. On the minus side, the kit materials are rather cheap - the wood is ply, and the fittings are plastic. Most other kit manufacturers include much better wood and fittings. There is nothing more ugly on a model than unpainted plastic, so make sure you paint it  

And we have pitchforks!!!

And we have pitchforks!!!

Bugra, Alde, Tim, and Curtis - thank you for your kind comments! 
 
I just got home from work. On the way back, I stopped by a sewing store and picked up a brand new sewing machine, the cheapest I could find. Well, it was actually the second cheapest. THE cheapest machine was $50 less, but it was in hot pink with little white flowers on it. I didn't want to look like an overaged male playing with a little girls sewing machine (yes, get that image out of your head right now!!!). I coughed up the extra cash and bought the next model up. Please don't ask me if I plan to put Hello Kitty stickers on it. 
 
I need the machine to make the sails. Now I should be able to finish the model!
 
There will be very little work this weekend - the Admiral will be home all weekend and I dare not bring my new sewing machine out. Right now it's well hidden in the store room. 

I don't know about this particular boat, but Billings is one of the oldest kit makers in the business. On the plus side, most of their kits are really accurate and faithful to the original. On the minus side, the kit materials are rather cheap - the wood is ply, and the fittings are plastic. Most other kit manufacturers include much better wood and fittings. There is nothing more ugly on a model than unpainted plastic, so make sure you paint it  

Thanks QAR
 
Hi Keith
The Band saw can deal with heavier gauge stuff, is more robust, can still cut fairly tight curves, but for very small delicate work a scroll saw is probably more appropriate. I would envisage using the band saw for many of the tasks I would otherwise use the table saw for.
 
Hi Tom,
85mm is the maximum cut height.
My cutting mat measures 90 cm x 60cm and I got it from a supplier in the UK Cost £26.95
 
http://www.creativegrids.com/acatalog/Industrial_Cutting_Mats.html
 
Thanks for your input Jud, I like the idea of buying cutting mats by the foot, very large mats in the UK cost an arm and a leg.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Thanks for all the comments and likes, everyone!

Anyway, I did some work on the carpenter's chest. I modelled it in the open position. I took inspiration from Cap'n Rat Fink's chest here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/849-hms-bounty-launch-by-teleman-116-bashed-completed/?p=12090 (copied the hollow lid idea), as well as Meredith's hinges here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2160-hms-bounty-launch-by-meredith-modelshipways/?p=143922
 
At the time I was wondering whether I could make metalwork as fine as hers, but as it turns out ... I can't. Try as I might, I am not able to make two "F" shapes in the supplied brass strip, so I made an "I" and a "C" instead. Still, I think the result looks OK. 
 
Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure or amusement. Probably the latter
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bugra, Alde, Tim, and Curtis - thank you for your kind comments! 
 
I just got home from work. On the way back, I stopped by a sewing store and picked up a brand new sewing machine, the cheapest I could find. Well, it was actually the second cheapest. THE cheapest machine was $50 less, but it was in hot pink with little white flowers on it. I didn't want to look like an overaged male playing with a little girls sewing machine (yes, get that image out of your head right now!!!). I coughed up the extra cash and bought the next model up. Please don't ask me if I plan to put Hello Kitty stickers on it. 
 
I need the machine to make the sails. Now I should be able to finish the model!
 
There will be very little work this weekend - the Admiral will be home all weekend and I dare not bring my new sewing machine out. Right now it's well hidden in the store room. 

That's enough!!! Less talking, more sawdust! 

That's enough!!! Less talking, more sawdust! 

That's enough!!! Less talking, more sawdust! 

Quite a few people here use Tung Oil. Wipe it on, then leave it for 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Leave it for 24 hours to "cure", then give it another coat. You will get a beautiful matt finish and it deepens the colour of the wood. 
 
Make sure you don't plan to glue anything on afterwards, because most glues have trouble sticking on to the oiled surface. 
 
As always, experiment on some scrap wood before applying it to your model!

Quite a few people here use Tung Oil. Wipe it on, then leave it for 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Leave it for 24 hours to "cure", then give it another coat. You will get a beautiful matt finish and it deepens the colour of the wood. 
 
Make sure you don't plan to glue anything on afterwards, because most glues have trouble sticking on to the oiled surface. 
 
As always, experiment on some scrap wood before applying it to your model!

Quite a few people here use Tung Oil. Wipe it on, then leave it for 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Leave it for 24 hours to "cure", then give it another coat. You will get a beautiful matt finish and it deepens the colour of the wood. 
 
Make sure you don't plan to glue anything on afterwards, because most glues have trouble sticking on to the oiled surface. 
 
As always, experiment on some scrap wood before applying it to your model!

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Thanks for all the comments and likes, everyone!

Anyway, I did some work on the carpenter's chest. I modelled it in the open position. I took inspiration from Cap'n Rat Fink's chest here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/849-hms-bounty-launch-by-teleman-116-bashed-completed/?p=12090 (copied the hollow lid idea), as well as Meredith's hinges here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2160-hms-bounty-launch-by-meredith-modelshipways/?p=143922
 
At the time I was wondering whether I could make metalwork as fine as hers, but as it turns out ... I can't. Try as I might, I am not able to make two "F" shapes in the supplied brass strip, so I made an "I" and a "C" instead. Still, I think the result looks OK. 
 
Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure or amusement. Probably the latter
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quite a few people here use Tung Oil. Wipe it on, then leave it for 10 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Leave it for 24 hours to "cure", then give it another coat. You will get a beautiful matt finish and it deepens the colour of the wood. 
 
Make sure you don't plan to glue anything on afterwards, because most glues have trouble sticking on to the oiled surface. 
 
As always, experiment on some scrap wood before applying it to your model!

You might get more replies here if you moved some posts from the other thread. 
 
I might be stirring the pot a little here by asking this question - but where does the money go with these kits?
 
I've been told that the quality of materials is very good. After reading the PDF's on Euromodel's website quite extensively, it appears that the frames are made of ply, the planks made of walnut, and the masts made of limewood. This is the same as most other kit manufacturers out there. 
 
I've also been told that the quality of fittings are excellent, but then we've seen the anchors appear to be oversized and awkwardly thick, and the lanterns and windows are made from cast metal instead of the photoetched parts we see on other kits. 
 
We have also been told that Euromodel offers you "scope to improve the model", but it looks to me as if this means that the quality of the offering is substandard. For example, the rigging of the gun carriage is really simple, and (if the build log is to be believed) they do not supply eye hooks and you have to supply your own. Caldercraft supply enough material to build a fully rigged gun carriage out of the box. Another example - the beakheads on the Wilhelm Friedrich kit are supplied as a block of wood from which you need to carve the beakhead. Some might see this as a challenge, but you could also ask if Euromodel couldn't be bothered to go through the trouble of laser cutting this for you. Yet another example - the boats on some of their kits are made from cast resin. Even Artesania Latina supply parts for a plank on frame model for a ship's boat. 
 
I suppose there is the quality of the instructions, but to me that does not justify spending close to A$2100 for Royal William when the competition offers much more detail out of the box for much less money. The Caldercraft Victory includes copper sheathing in the box (which adds substantially to the cost), is a much bigger boat than any of the Euromodels, and costs A$1400, i.e. it is 30% cheaper. 
 
I really think I am missing something here. Can someone tell me what's so different about these kits? 

Guten tag, Herr Max. The PDF's prepared by PiratePete for the Friedrich Wilhelm can be found here: http://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/friedrich-wilhelm-i-i.php#axzz2tUPv2o20
 
All the others are here. Click on the links on the left. http://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/interpretive-info.php#axzz2tUPv2o20

Pete, I can tell you that I downloaded all your PDF's onto my tablet and I read them in bed every night before I go to sleep. When my alarm went off this morning I found myself dreaming about how i'm going to paint that little horseman on the Friedrich Wilhelm  
 
Re: the lanterns and windows - paint is no substitute for being able to see through it. I am not sure if I can fabricate wooden parts that small. If I were to tackle the kit, I would probably solder brass strips together and then sand them down to the required thickness. 

Hi Steve, I will be pulling up a chair to watch. Make sure your Launch is nice and watertight, I hear there are a lot of sharks over there in Perth  
 
As for scarphing for small boats like these, I too asked that question. However I have not been able to find any evidence for it. My build was heavily influenced by the Huon Pine boat builders of Tasmania. I have seen quite a few of these boats, and none of them have scarph joints. I took my inspiration for the honey coloured wood and treenails from them, but the two tone wood colours were my idea. Frankly, probably not authentic - but it does look good! 
 
You are right that the windlass (and the crane) were probably not on the ship when Bligh was cast away. Those things were used for retrieving the anchor or towing the Bounty out of tight spots or when there was not much wind. They were probably either thrown overboard or left on the ship. 
 
I note that your kit is a little different from mine - different box, and your instructions are in colour! I was a little baffled when my instructions referred to the "colour" of the wood several times ... when my instructions were in black and white. 
 
Good luck with your build, I can't wait to see what you come up with.