Keith_W

All finished. Some shots in my home studio.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
In front of a Viking cross-stitch given to me by my friend's wife more than 10 years ago.
 

 
With my other ship - the HMS Bounty. The scale of both ships is roughly comparable. The Bounty is 1:48, the Viking ship is 1:50.

Thanks for all the comments and likes, everyone!

Anyway, I did some work on the carpenter's chest. I modelled it in the open position. I took inspiration from Cap'n Rat Fink's chest here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/849-hms-bounty-launch-by-teleman-116-bashed-completed/?p=12090 (copied the hollow lid idea), as well as Meredith's hinges here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2160-hms-bounty-launch-by-meredith-modelshipways/?p=143922
 
At the time I was wondering whether I could make metalwork as fine as hers, but as it turns out ... I can't. Try as I might, I am not able to make two "F" shapes in the supplied brass strip, so I made an "I" and a "C" instead. Still, I think the result looks OK. 
 
Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure or amusement. Probably the latter
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Here is the corrected video, thank you for being patient.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBji-Oz3J7E
 
 

 
Paul

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Yes, plans and instructions,  and sorting through the hundreds of construction pics. Designing and building the prototype is only half the job when developing a kit - as much time again, sometimes even more time, is spent trying to ensure that people can build the model by way of text, pictures and line drawings.

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Thanks Bob and Dan. To be honest I think that the photographs flatter the model. I can see all the mistakes, I just make sure that it doesn't show in the photos But if you look carefully, you will find them!
 
Anyway, this will be my last update for a few weeks. Tomorrow, I fly out for work I managed to get started on the rigging, but I had a rather busy evening so I only managed to complete two shrouds.
 

 
I noticed that McKay's book shows both the foremast and mainmast with sheaves, so I installed the sheaves.
 

 
This picture shows rigging thread as supplied by Model Shipways (below) and Artesania Latina (above). Note the MS thread is slightly shiny and has no fuzzies. I suspect that it is synthetic fibre, maybe nylon. In use, it is more difficult to handle than the AL cotton thread - knots want to come apart, and it doesn't form compact, tight knots as easily. But I suspect that in the long run it will look better.
 

 
The bowsprit holder has been painted and installed. McKay shows the bowsprit holder mounted on a plate running down the side of the keel, but I think that my solution looks nicer.
 

 
The bowsprit is secured at the rear end simply by tying it to the foremast.
 

 
This is my method for rigging deadeyes. Again, I have not seen it described in MSW or anywhere else. This method uses no jigs. The major advantage is that it allows you to adjust both length and tension easily and perfectly. This is how:
 
1. Prepare the deadeye thread - CA one end (to make it stiff and easy to pass through holes), and make a stop knot on the other end.
 
2. Loop the upper shroud around a deadeye and secure with an alligator clip.
 
3. Rig the thread through both deadeyes loosely.
 

 
4. When the deadeyes are fully rigged, tension the thread by pulling them one by one through the holes. When fully tensioned, check the tension of the shroud and the length of the deadeye. When checking the tension, also make sure that the rake of the mast is correct AND it has not been pulled laterally. You will come across these possible scenarios:
 
4a. IF the deadeyes are too long AND the tension of the shroud is insufficient, you need to tension the deadeyes more.
 
4b. IF the deadeyes are spaced correctly but the shrouds are insufficiently tensioned, release the crocodile clip and add more tension to the shrouds.
 
4c. IF the shrouds are correctly tensioned but the space between the deadeyes is too long, release the shroud alligator clip and feed back the exact number of mm you need to shorten the deadeyes by. The deadeyes will become slack - re-tension them and they should be the correct length.
 
4d. IF the shrouds are correctly tensioned but the space between the deadeyes is too short, release the shroud alligator clip and pull up the exact number of mm you need to lengthen the deadeyes by. Feed the thread back into the deadeyes to lengthen.
 

 
5. Once you are satisfied with both deadeye spacing and shroud tension, tie a knot under the alligator clip and secure with a dab of white glue.
 

 
6. Complete the seizing.
 

 

 
Looks pretty good doesn't it! I'm going to make this Launch so beautiful that Bligh would have preferred to sail in this thing than that breadfruit carrying ship full of mutinous ingrates!
 
And that's it for now. I have to say good-bye to my wife, my home, and my little boat for a few weeks while I fly out to remote Australia. Well, not so remote - it has a beautiful beach There are worse places to work!
 
(edit) ARGHHHH I forgot to make and install the thwart knees before I Tung Oil'ed the thwarts!!! I can still make them, but ... what glue will stick to Tung Oiled thwarts? CA? PVA? Help please!

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

Yes. Go http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php'>here and read Russell Barnes' tutorial on silver soldering. Note that he uses silver solder paste. Apply the paste to your joint, then hit it with a blowtorch. 
 
(edit) the link didn't work, so here it is again: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.

I have also done more work on the hull.
 

 
These are the rear seats. The kit would have the side seats resting on top of the thwarts. I preferred the look of all the seats on the same level, so that's what I did.
 

 
This is the grating as supplied in the kit. It looks rather cheesy, and I can not find any reference to the grating in AOTS: Bounty or any other source I have on hand.
 

 
I therefore cut up some spare wood and fabricated myself a replacement. This hasn't yet been glued in, it was a rough fit for the photo!
 

 
I added a wale, then masked it off and painted it yellow.
 

 
Gunwales added! All the other build logs seem to use the same method to clamp down the gunwales while waiting for the glue to dry. I had plenty of chopsticks on hand, so that's what I used.
 

 
The masts have been completed (L-R): maintmast, foremast, bowsprit. The bowsprit has been finished as per McKay. I calculated it at 82% the length of the foremast. In this kit, the foremast is 32cm, so the bowsprit works out to be 26.2cm.
 

 
Everyone seems to have a different method for aligning the gunwales. Mario (Cap'n Rat Fink) assembled his on the plans, then lofted the entire thing on the model. I didn't like that idea, so I came up with this. After I glued in the gunwales, I masked off the gunwales and levelled off the bow gunwale cheeks. After a good sanding, these were re-stained. They are now beautifully flush.
 

 
A number of build logs on MSW have also commented that the rear gunwale cheeks are too short. Not mine - mine dropped in perfectly after I shaved off half a mm. This is the completed rear of the boat, with the rear thwart, the backrest, and the completed gunwales.

Finished early today. Rushed home, ripped my tie off, and within seconds was changed from an urban work drone and into my dingy modelling clothes
 
Today, I fabricated new thwarts for positions #1 and #4, and completed much work done yesterday.
 

 
This is the fore thwart (position #1). The reason why I need a new one is because I did not read the instructions properly! It says to position the foremast stay in relation to the fore thwart to achieve the correct rake. Well, I positioned my foremast stay according to the plans. When I came to test fit the fore thwart, the mast raked forwards!
 
As you can see, my new fore thwart is much wider than the one provided in the kit. It doesn't need to be that wide - in reality I probably need a couple of mm less. I will trim it when I come to fit the fore thwart so that it sits snug against the grating.
 
You should probably note that the thwart provided in the kit is too large for the mainmast - see the gaps around the dowel in the picture? The diameter of the fore thwart fits the mainmast perfectly though.
 

 
On the other hand, the thwart for the mainmast fits perfectly. This is pictured with my new #4 thwart.
 
And finally, here are some pictures of the boat as of right now. I painted on a blue stripe to match my Bounty. The planks look slightly shiny because they have just been given a coating of Tung Oil. I have to wait for the oil to cure before proceeding, so that's all for tonight.
 
Hmm, maybe I have time to start tapering the dowels for the masts ...
 

 

 

 

 

 
The instructions remind you that this is a working boat, and should not be finished "like a yacht". Well, it's MY boat, so i'll finish it like a yacht if I want to

Thanks Tom and Jeff. I managed to do more work tonight - sober this time, and not hung over
 

 

 
In my previous post I described how to get a nice, crisp finish on a treenail. The first photo shows the treenail pushed through a plank. Note the top of the treenail is rather dull and has some stain. The second photo shows the proud area chiselled off - it now looks brighter.
 

 

 

 
After 5 coats of paint, I removed the masking tape. Not bad, but there are some errors which need to be cleaned up. I have also installed the thwart risers.
 
I did not show a picture, but I also dry fit the thwarts at this stage. All the other build logs have noted that either the thwarts are not wide enough, or the boat became more wide after removal from the jig. Well, I have the same problem! I measured the boat at 2mm wider than it should be - enough for the thwarts to fall off. 2mm isn't such a bad error, I could correct it simply by squeezing the boat together.
 
I will have to fabricate some new thwarts anyway to accomodate the repositioned mainmast. Thankfully there is enough spare material in the kit to do so. But - I think I will squeeze the boat when installing the thwarts. There should be enough glue power in the thwarts to hold the boat together.
 

 

 
I followed usedtosail's method of making the quarterdecks. First, I fit all the beams. Then, I laid down the center planks (along with spacers, as you can see). I then removed the quarter deck and transferred it to the plans, where I pinned it down. From there it was easy to trim the planks to fit as I went along. It would have been extremely fiddly to build it on the boat!
 
I should note that MS specified 1/4" planks for the quarterdeck, but they didn't supply any! Instead, they supplied 3/16" planks. Also, despite promising to supply "enough" square cherry dowels, I had just enough to install the frames with none left over. Fortunately I had spare square dowel from another kit. I went ahead and built the quarterdeck with the 3/16 planks. If I am not happy with the result, I will ask MS to send me 1/4" planks.
 
Tomorrow - I will treenail the quarterdeck.

Ingenious method for placing the treenails. When I treenailed my boat, I drilled the treenails out from inside. Very tricky work - I had to remember to keep my drill 90deg to the wood at all times, otherwise the outside hole would be uneven! Your treenails are beautiful!
 
My boat is constructed of the same basswood as yours. I found that dry sanding with successively finer grades was enough to produce a good finish.

Small update for those following.
 
The hull is now almost complete. I mounted the thwarts and chose the angle of the masts today. This is how I did it:
 

 
The most horizontal part of the ship is the middle floor plank, so I put a spirit level there and adjusted the height of the stand until it was level.
 

 
I was then able to align the masts, using the door frame (not in the picture) as my vertical reference.
 

 
I mounted the rudder with the pintles and gudgeons. I know of the problems others have been having with it (Meredith burnt a cake because she found it exceptionally fiddly), but I had no problems. It might be because my kit includes different pintles and gudgeons ... other build logs mention having to fabricate it out of brass strip. Not so here, mine came pre-bent and pre-drilled. However, the pre-drilled holes were a little off so I ended up fabricating my own anyway.
 
For trouble-free mounting, try what I did - mount the gudgeons to the rudder and the keel. Make sure they are aligned properly. Then mount the pintles onto the gudgeons, then slide the rudder into place. Once in place, pin the pintles securely.
 

 
These are the shrouds I made using my really poor soldering skills. At least I didn't blacken the deadeyes by burning them!
 

 
This is how I align the deadeyes prior to rigging. Pin the deadeye to the hull, then thread some rope through the deadeye. Pull the rope tight against the point where the shroud attaches to the mast, then CA the deadeye in place.
 

 

 
Ready to begin standing rigging tomorrow.

First step is to build the keel. There are 7 parts to this keel, and they need to be joined precisely. The instructions suggest to use the plans as a guide, with some plastic wrap for protection - so that's what I did.
 

 
The next step was to build my building board and assemble the construction jig. I bought the squares from a hardware store.
 

 
After the glue on the keel had dried, I cut out the rabbet. The kit designers made it easy by inscribing the rabbet line in laser. It was a simple matter of removing the material with a chisel. I bought this chisel for this project, and I was surprised by how sharp it was. It goes through wood like butter. Next to it is my Japanese carving knife, also incredibly sharp.
 

 
Rabbet completed.
 

 
I stained a scrap piece of wood with a selection of stains. Oak and Elm look too similar, and both are too dark. Maple is too red. Old Baltic was acceptable, but too brown. Golden Teak was close to the finish I wanted (a light honey wood), but it was too bright. I decided to mix Golden Teak and Old Baltic 50:50 (panel on the far right) to obtain the finish that I wanted.
 

 
Having decided on the finish, I then stained the planks prior to construction.
 

Thanks Bob and Dan. To be honest I think that the photographs flatter the model. I can see all the mistakes, I just make sure that it doesn't show in the photos But if you look carefully, you will find them!
 
Anyway, this will be my last update for a few weeks. Tomorrow, I fly out for work I managed to get started on the rigging, but I had a rather busy evening so I only managed to complete two shrouds.
 

 
I noticed that McKay's book shows both the foremast and mainmast with sheaves, so I installed the sheaves.
 

 
This picture shows rigging thread as supplied by Model Shipways (below) and Artesania Latina (above). Note the MS thread is slightly shiny and has no fuzzies. I suspect that it is synthetic fibre, maybe nylon. In use, it is more difficult to handle than the AL cotton thread - knots want to come apart, and it doesn't form compact, tight knots as easily. But I suspect that in the long run it will look better.
 

 
The bowsprit holder has been painted and installed. McKay shows the bowsprit holder mounted on a plate running down the side of the keel, but I think that my solution looks nicer.
 

 
The bowsprit is secured at the rear end simply by tying it to the foremast.
 

 
This is my method for rigging deadeyes. Again, I have not seen it described in MSW or anywhere else. This method uses no jigs. The major advantage is that it allows you to adjust both length and tension easily and perfectly. This is how:
 
1. Prepare the deadeye thread - CA one end (to make it stiff and easy to pass through holes), and make a stop knot on the other end.
 
2. Loop the upper shroud around a deadeye and secure with an alligator clip.
 
3. Rig the thread through both deadeyes loosely.
 

 
4. When the deadeyes are fully rigged, tension the thread by pulling them one by one through the holes. When fully tensioned, check the tension of the shroud and the length of the deadeye. When checking the tension, also make sure that the rake of the mast is correct AND it has not been pulled laterally. You will come across these possible scenarios:
 
4a. IF the deadeyes are too long AND the tension of the shroud is insufficient, you need to tension the deadeyes more.
 
4b. IF the deadeyes are spaced correctly but the shrouds are insufficiently tensioned, release the crocodile clip and add more tension to the shrouds.
 
4c. IF the shrouds are correctly tensioned but the space between the deadeyes is too long, release the shroud alligator clip and feed back the exact number of mm you need to shorten the deadeyes by. The deadeyes will become slack - re-tension them and they should be the correct length.
 
4d. IF the shrouds are correctly tensioned but the space between the deadeyes is too short, release the shroud alligator clip and pull up the exact number of mm you need to lengthen the deadeyes by. Feed the thread back into the deadeyes to lengthen.
 

 
5. Once you are satisfied with both deadeye spacing and shroud tension, tie a knot under the alligator clip and secure with a dab of white glue.
 

 
6. Complete the seizing.
 

 

 
Looks pretty good doesn't it! I'm going to make this Launch so beautiful that Bligh would have preferred to sail in this thing than that breadfruit carrying ship full of mutinous ingrates!
 
And that's it for now. I have to say good-bye to my wife, my home, and my little boat for a few weeks while I fly out to remote Australia. Well, not so remote - it has a beautiful beach There are worse places to work!
 
(edit) ARGHHHH I forgot to make and install the thwart knees before I Tung Oil'ed the thwarts!!! I can still make them, but ... what glue will stick to Tung Oiled thwarts? CA? PVA? Help please!

Stained and the seats installed. I am pleased with my choice. And a picture of my next step. So tiny!

The HMS Victory has been on my bucket list for years. I think I have finally accumulated enough skills to attempt it. The question is - which kit version is the best? By this I mean - which has the best fittings, the best instructions, the most historically accurate, and the one which will come together with the least amount of pain? 
 
The last time I looked, there were HMS Victory kits from: 

- Caldercraft / Jotika
- Mamoli
- Corel
- Artesania Latina
- Billings
 
I am leaning towards the Caldercraft version - I have seen many build logs on MSW, I have downloaded the instructions, and the company does seem to be very supportive. 
 
Any opinions? 
 
(I did a search for Victory and there were 6 pages of results. I looked through every page, and have read at least a dozen build logs!)

That carving is stunning! You must be the Michelangelo of ship models!