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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    I missed the point about the ladder and think you're probably correct there. Looking at the original sketch I always felt there was a slight slope to the top towards the aft which would have made sense as you really don't need a flat surface for water to sit on. The height is going to need to be cut down by 3~4 mm ! There isn't any set convention on orientation, in fact with cutters it seems you get a basic hull then outfit it to you personal taste ! I like your rudder and will confess that I still have trouble mounting this particular item. Gunports are now open but I'm not doing anything about the others - I'm really not sure if they were painted on blanks as was sometimes done, or actual ports. there are a couple that really would have been impossible to fight, the one between the stays and the one at the bows with the windlass immediately behind it. Rick
  2. Rick01
    Firstly excuse my lack of correct terminology. I'm re-working my first model H M Cutter Mermaid and where the kit has a top sail all original documents indicate a flying Gaff. However I'm unable to find anything which shows clearly what rigging I should have on the mast and gaff to support this. I assume a block at the mast head to hoist it and then one foot of the sail would be controlled by a line directly to point on the bulwarks, the other sail foot seems to be fixed in some manner to the tip of the gaff. Is this in fact through another block and again down to the bulwarks? I can't see that they'd lower the sail just to attach the gaff sail before flying it. Hope this makes some sort of sense. Rick
  3. Rick01
    Here's a shot of my deck layout and companionway. I've got to remove mine (as I said) and reverse it and possibly lower it a little to match the cutaway sketch. Next shot is the spreader using a more sensible method than in the instructions, it does mean re-building the lower mast cap. Next some much needed extra belaying pins at the transom (that tiller has to be re-built). and some more detail on the companionway now it's been detached. Note that using the kitchen bench to work on isn't recommended except when the admiral happens to be some 10,500 miles away and hasn't got the password to this forum! Rick
  4. Rick01
    Just to add confusion to things this article https://www.arc.id.au/Cannon.html gives average barrel length for carronades as 32" so scaled to 1:48 this is 17mm. Smallest carronade barrel I can find is 20mm so I'm going to go with that and then build my own carriage. This looks to be around 2/3rds the length of the barrel on those not on slides so I'll work around that. Rick
  5. Rick01
    Just found this contemporary instruction on naval carronades. Looks as if the 6lb carronade will probably only measure around 24". The previous length I got was taken from a carronade (supposedly 6lb) on a field carriage on the Isle of Wight. https://books.google.com.au/books?id=bWRHAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA36&lpg=PA36&dq=carronade+length&source=bl&ots=9YHTlde_Kg&sig=ACfU3U0S-dMkpQUvFtt_8jEzRWyFgsNIHA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjuk9yXvKnjAhV-7XMBHfQvCQU4ChDoATADegQICBAB#v=onepage&q=carronade length&f=false Scroll back to page 33. Rick
  6. Rick01
    No worries - just concerned that the ship may have foundered! Rick
  7. Rick01
    Hey Chris - how's your build coming on? Haven't seen you for a little while. Rick
  8. Rick01
    Thanks for the tip on the carriage rather than slide and for the Careening Bay note also. The deck furniture really needs some time playing with as the kit is so far from King's own sketch, as soon as I've peeled my model out of it's case (takes two people to lift it off the ship) I'll photo the deck as is for you and show the companionway before I turn it round. Rick
  9. Rick01
    I've had a bit of a hunt around the internet and it seems a 6lb carronade barrel is around 43" in length, scaled down this would be about 22mm, nearest I can find in model fittings is Caldercraft's 18lb carronade in 1:64 scale at 22.6 mm with a full base and fittings. Looks like I'll have to order these in. At least buying in the UK I avoid GST 😉 Rick
  10. Rick01
    If you're feeling brave you can cheat with these type of fittings and use a heavy black paper impregnated with PVA glue. Give the appearance of iron fittings and is a hell of a lot easier to fit/fix. By the way I'm looking at getting mie out of it's case and doing some re-modelling. I did a quick scan through King's log and it seems that she was fitted with 6lb carronades so out with the 4lb cannon. I also cannot find any cutters ever fitted with gun port lids so they're coming off. Companionway needs to be turned around and I'll be fitting bars to my skylight. Probably do another check of the rigging as well, although I'm pretty happy with it (at the moment). Rick
  11. Rick01
    Have a look at the cutters in https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/category/4-gallery-of-contemporary-models-from-museums-and-private-collections/ page 2 . You'll notice that the boom at the mast is sitting there purely due to weight. If you've a problem with the kit not sitting down properly then maybe a touch of glue where the yoke sits on the mast will solve your problem. Rick
  12. Rick01
    Middle one - it wouldn't hurt to put a couple of "iron" bars lengthways across the frame as well. Have them fine and if possible raised slightly then you don't get the appearance of multiple small panes like your third option. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Hi Eric - welcome (and a quick Heads up). It sounds as if you're going from a good basic starter (as I did) straight to one of the more complex kits available. Hopefully you'll build a couple of others between as the skills learnt in the first build will realistically only be of minimal use on the Victory. Obviously I don't know your skill level but just wanted to give you a warning in case you suddenly find you've bitten off more than you can chew. 😉 Rick
  14. Rick01
    If you look closely at King's cut-away sketch you'll see that he has shown a similar companionway (I've just noticed that I faced mine in the opposite direction to the one Ollie installed need to revisit the model for some amendments!). I used a similar construction to his for my skylight. 2mm glass with frames glues to the glass to give the appearance of separate panes. Rick
  15. Rick01
    They all seem to have a vent on top - dispels the heat from the oil lamp inside. Rick
  16. Rick01
    Have you tried the UK National Maritime Museum? I've a permanent short-cut there for cutters in general https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!csearch;authority=subject-90254;collectionReference=subject-90254;innerSearchTerm=cutter;start=0 . Should be worth checking out. Rick
  17. Rick01
    On the kit plans there's a topsail yard fig. 31 Doesn't exist on any of Kings sketches that I've seen but a flying jib does. It shows pretty well here and this modern representation of the Mermaid also illustrates it. It's a free flying spar with sail attached hoist(I'm guessing) via block at the masthead. By the way, here's a three section binnacle which can be scaled down if needed. Sorry to hijack your thread James but I hope these do help. Rick
  18. Rick01
    Don't know if you James or Chris have got a hi res version of this cut-away. If not here it is, blows up very well and really helps with positioning deck furnishings, rigging and flying jib etc. I've a couple more somewhere showing flying jibs a bit better. Just ask and I'll post them if needed. Rick
  19. Rick01
    Think I may nick over to your place tonight Chris and check it out. If I bring my version of "Mermaid" with me we can compare notes!! 😉 Rick
  20. Rick01
    Given that we know the length of the deck and the binnacle may be seen on King's cutaway sketch, you just need a pair of dividers to obtain the height and width of the binnacle. Set the dividers at the measurement you want then walk them down the length of the deck, a quick division will give an approximation for you. As for breadth just go with something that looks proportional that will hold a compass and a light either side. Rick
  21. Rick01
    Any bowsprits I've seen sitting on rather than through the gunwales have sat in a shallow "fitted" scoop in the gunwales with the capping rail coming about half way up the diameter of the bowsprit. Everything appeared to be a close fit. hope this helps. Rick
  22. Rick01
    Sounds as if you fell foul of the same problem another couple of us did. Nowhere in the plans does it say that the bulwarks are around 1mm higher one end to the other, so if you install with the high end to the bows then you have this problem of the bowsprit sitting too high. I did have a "discussion" with Modellers Shipyard over this and they did say that this would be noted in their next print of the instructions but as far as I can tell it's never happened. Rick
  23. Rick01
    Ouch - I missed that completely when I looked at it. Rudder's not going to work too well that way round. Rick
  24. Rick01
    I dropped mine down the depth of the cap rail and added my interpretation of the ring. Another point of interpretation in both sketches is the anchor cable/chain. It appears to me almost as if it's a chain rather than cable unless King was showing it as a thick cable by putting lines on it. I ended up with cable but still look at the pictures from time to time and wonder. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Not Startrack by any chance? Around our way they throw the parcels into corners that you can't easily access! Rick

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