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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    I based my thoughts on the traveller on a number of cutters built during the appropriate period, this link gives a close-up of the bowsprit for le Cerf a slightly larger French cutter of a similar period. https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/34-monographie-du-cerf-cotre-1778.html . I agree the bowsprit does retract but probably no more than the length of the squared off section, however as my experience with sailing is in a negative value I can only look and guess based on what seems to me to be the simplest solution. 😉 There is one item I've added and that's the bilge pumps which you may also see in this link. As there don't appear to be any set dimensions for these pumps mine do vary somewhat from the illustrated ones (found after I'd built them) but at least they do help with deck furniture. Rick 🙂
  2. Rick01
    Quick "Heads Up". Have you looked at the rigging book yet? Not the best one I've ever seen and there appear to be a number of short cuts being used. It seems to be missing the traveller with its in-haul and out-haul. As far as I can see this has just been replaced by a block wired to the end of the bowsprit, so it you're near fitting it you may want to consider constructing the traveller ring etc. before fitting the end ring on the bowsprit. Do you have any other books giving basic rigging for this type of ship? It will help interpret these instructions. Rick
  3. Rick01
    You're welcome to use any ideas I put up - that's what the forum is all about! With my bowsprit I've made a separate octagonal section that I intended fitting to a shortened dowel (after tapering). Before I go down that route however I think I'll try your method. By the way, that's a lovely paint job you've done, talking of which I'm puzzled by the suggestion that gun port lids be painted red on the inner face. This will end up with a rather odd checkerboard pattern on the inner face of the gunwales, just doesn't make sense to me. I'm actually considering leaving the lids off as 99% of all cutters of this size (and bigger) have open ports check this as a sample https://www.amarsenal.be/fr/membres-modeles/helmut-dejardin/le-cerf . Rick
  4. Rick01
    Welcome Andrew - beginning to look like we have enough Aussies to set up a sub-forum by now! Rick (Another Locked Down Victorian) 🙂
  5. Rick01
    ... and my revised boat davits and boat. The davits and cross bar were doubled in thickness 5mm removed from the davits length and the holes for the block and tackle were set back 5 mm from the end. This is all based on a couple of photos I found on line for the replica and make more sense than the kit version. The boat is also built as a clinker design. Rick
  6. Rick01
    Whilst I'm re-writing the instructions I've made an executive decision and gone down a different route for the fore fife rail. This is an illustration of belaying pin spacing on a working replica ship of the same period. This is the fife rail with pins fitted as per kit instructions. Very close together, I am using slightly larger pins but even with the metal ones supplied it was still to tight. So off came the original rail, a quick look around the internet and I've come up with an acceptable solution based on other contemporary models. You'll also notice two hawse holes where I intend bringing the anchor cable onto the deck rather than through the hull into what would probably be crew quarters. In the replica they must have had an electric winch below decks, whereas originally the anchor would have been been hoist by either windlass or block and tackle as a best guess. The next interesting build will be the octagonal section on the bowsprit - as it stands I can't see that their instructions will work. Rick
  7. Rick01
    Remember that the davits holding the boat will hide some "mis-fitting" of the cap rail. However as with the catheads these will need to be doubled in thickness. Currently the kit asks you to believe that the ship's boat is held safely by a couple of 2 metre lengths of timber 10 cm sq. Here's my version. ... and here's an illustration of a more realistic method of rigging the lifts. Similar to the catheads rigging. I've been looking at the various photos of the replica and it seems that the arms should also be shorter as the boat when hoist appears very close to the transom - still thinking about that item. Rick
  8. Rick01
    Much better idea - I've a nasty little problem where my cap rail doesn't sit neatly with the transom as the latter was fitted first and ended up positioned a fraction low. 👿 Rick
  9. Rick01
    ... and how long before all the surfaces are covered again! 😉 I never seem able to keep my work area tidy for more than five minutes. Rick
  10. Rick01
    I'm working on the prow and have attached the belaying pin rail but had to add a brace each end as there was insufficient room on the capping rail to attach according to the plans. Note also the reinforcing bar is running prow to stern not port to starboard. Just about every ship of this size I've seen has had the mainstay braced by lines through a block or heart down to 3 or 5 holes in the prow not to a single pin. Tip here use a heavy black cartridge paper soaked in PVA glue easier to work and looks just like a metal reinforcing strip. Given the pressures involved I prefer to use this system. I've also started on the blocks for the carronade tackle, look a little rough close-up but when finished they should be reasonable. Rick
  11. Rick01
    Looking good there - it's surprising what a little paint will disguise but from what I can see I don't think you need worry about them not being presentable. We're all going a little stir crazy at the moment but this sort of occupation does help keep us sane (sort of). Rick 🙂
  12. Rick01
    There's not a lot out there that I can find, however both these secondary sources state that the cutter is pierced for 14 guns. 10 carronades (as supplied) plus 4 4lb guns see https://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/le-renard/602 and http://renard.dechorgnat.com/artillerie.html (Google will translate this page). I only had a couple of correct size cannon spares so the captain must have a couple of them stowed below for some reason 😉. Catheads - really bad design, way too thin and poorly set up for the lifting rope. I've doubled the thickness and drilled the top with four holes to represent pulley wheels as per this illustration. Next is the binnacle which I've fitted further from the companionway so that the doors on the companionway can actually open! I've chosen to treat the upper sections as if they were glassed in - I can't see why they would be cupboard type if the helmsman needed to see a compass. I may also add tie downs to the binnacle as it's my understanding that this would be stowed below in battle (fewer splinters to fly around). I'm also not happy with the length of the bars on th deck to steady the helmsman's feet - they look disproportionately long to me. My 3mm blocks arrived today so next job it to sand the edges down to give a rounded appearance then construct hooks and add rope - eyestrain here I come! Rick
  13. Rick01
    When you come to fitting the gun tackle you may want to try smaller blocks than those provided. I've used 3 mm and also added the restraining rope to the carronade itself. Still not as good as I'd like but I just can't handle 2 mm blocks! I've also dug up a pair of 6lb cannon left over from another build and will add these at the prow. I haven't completed the tackle yet as I'm waiting on a mail order - we're in complete lockdown so it's mail or nothing at the moment. Rick
  14. Rick01
    Have you offered up the carronades to see that they all clear the ports? I found that I'd slipped the gunwales down a fraction and the barrels of the central two guns fouled the ports and needed the slide base sanded down a little to allow them to fit neatly. Rick
  15. Rick01
    Deck layout I'm using. A number of items have been omitted as they appear to be requirements on the replica. Items at the bow not yet installed as a couple of 4lb cannon need to be built and space needs to be checked.
  16. Rick01
    Inspired guess here. Block/wedge under the keel, then ropes from the eyebolts in the gunwales that would secure the cannon/carronades, over the hull and across to eyebolts along or near to the centreline. These latter should be there anyway to pull the cannon inboard. Rick
  17. Rick01
    I recall that when I was researching my version I saw a note somewhere that one of the boats was "broken down" and stored below. However I can't now recall where that was. By the way the instructions with the kit are not the best with the deck furnishings not positioned as per King's sketch and in particular the topsail yard should be "flying" and the halyards for the gaff also not per the sketch. There are some other problems but I can't remember them at the moment. 😞 Rick
  18. Rick01
    Tip of the day. Cut the hole for the rudder (page 41), BEFORE fitting assembly K (page 23). Less chance of splitting decking planks or finding the rudder post binds against the transom. Not saying this may have happened to me , however ... Rick 🙂
  19. Rick01
    Quick tip for you. If you haven't put the bars in your deck furnishings yet, get a long .6 mm or .75 mm drill and run it through the holes that the bars fit in. I found that the holes didn't line up perfectly and had problems fitting the bars until I ran the drill through and effectively lined them up. As for the bars themselves I just heated them up til they glowed then cooled them, it gave an authentic iron colour without having to paint! Should add that I'm using a roll of .75 mm steel wire instead of the supplied item - you can afford to make a lot of mistakes cutting correct lengths when you've got 10 metres of it! I'm a couple of steps ahead of you at the moment having just finished the hull painting. Rick
  20. Rick01
    Hi - I've built one ship from Modellers Shipyard, HM Cutter Mermaid. Ideal for you with it's Australian history, regretfully it's not the most accurate kit given how much information is out there but there are a number of good builds on this forum that detail this little cutter well and it's not at all hard to alter the kit slightly to become a truer model. It was my second build and I found it straight forward and gave a pleasing result. Rick
  21. Rick01
    If you check the companionway here you can get an approximation of the side profile and it should really only be wide enough for a man to get down the steps/ladder. It looks as if the binnacle here has a slightly sloped top and the compass and oil lamps at the top. Rick
  22. Rick01
    Don't know if you've found this site http://renard.dechorgnat.com/index.html which covers some of the errors that appear in both the Soclaine and AL kits. Also there is no windlass and the anchor cable appears to go into the hull rather than onto the deck then down to the rope locker via a windlass. There wouldn't be room for a windlass below decks on a cutter so hoisting the anchor via a windlass or by hand appear to be the only option. Another possible error is with the siting of the various deck furnishings. Coming forward from the stern there's an item that may or may not be the binnacle housing for the compass almost directly after that is a companionway. These are sited so close together on the plan that you would not be able to open the doors on the companionway fully, in addition the binnacle is fixed to the deck but my understanding is that it would be lashed down and could then be stored below decks during any action. In fact the AL kit seems to be a copy of the replica with its amendments to comply with current regulations not of the original. Rick
  23. Rick01
    I've always used a dilute PVA glue on knots, likewise a very dilute solution used to soak the flags allows you to move them into any position you want. This is best experimented with beforehand to get the correct solution - sorry but I can't remember the ratios! Rick
  24. Rick01
    Have you looked around at previous builds of this model. There's a very good one by Vossiewulf ( although unfinished) that would be worth your while looking at. Easy way to hold the false deck down it using a number of heavy duty rubber bands. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Literally just started this kit a week back although I haven't started a build here. It seems to be a fairly accurate model of the replica rather than the original as far as I can tell. Instructions are not the best either! It'll keep me busy but I feel that I'll have a fight most of the way. If you want a cutter and are prepared for a bit of bashing then look at H. M. Cutter Mermaid, there are a few builds here and plenty of historical detail out there to enable you to take the basic kit and turn it into a nice reasonably accurate model. Rick

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