Rick01
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Everything posted by Rick01
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The beauty of the first planking is that you can stuff it up pretty badly and still get away with it with careful sanding and filling. Additionally using PVA glue it's not impossible to remove some planking if it goes horribly wrong. With one of mine I had to strip nearly half off one side, it had just got a mind of its own! It's a learning curve and first planking is a pretty good exercise, just treat it as that and take your time. Rick
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- Lady Nelson
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Can't go past this advice for a good build. I took around 8 months to complete mine, I didn't complete a build log at that time I'm afraid so no pictures.
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- first build
- lady nelson
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Remember when doing research that this is not a model of an actual cutter, but a representation of cutters in general. This allows you more scope in finishing. It's a nice model and fun to build. Rick
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No - part of the reason for the rabbet it to take the first layer, as I mentioned this will then provide a smooth run and with 2nd planking at .6mm it will all fall in place neatly. You do need that area to taper off smoothly and at the moment you have a bit of a hump there, if you don't want to try removing and re seating then a bit of judicious sanding should work. Rick
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You should also have taken those first two planks right up to the stern post, otherwise you'll have a nasty lump instead of a smooth run to the keel and stern post.It's not too late to CAREFULLY remove those two plank and replace with one's running the full length of the ship. I know they'll be slightly damaged but the can still be used elsewhere. Rick
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Figure 4 almost has it.This is a light weight yard and as such, I'v a lift going from the yard tip, up through a block lashed to the mast then down to a belaying pin on the pin rail surrounding the mast (obviously this refers to each side). Which pin you use is dictated by ensuring the halyard doesn't chafe on any other lines. Rick
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No worries - glad to help here. As this isn't a model of a specific cutter feel free to make any variations you want, it does make a pleasant little kit. Rick
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I don't know if it's due to the photography or not, but it does seem to have a slight longitudinal curve. Noticeable in the first side shot and last head-on shot. If so, at this stage packing out a filler on the inner side of the curve should be enough to fix it. I run a steel straight edge along the keel when I check mine as I fit any fillers. Basically how I handled mine, I also fitted these items before planking, not after as the instructions indicate. Rick
- 18 replies
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I usually temporarily fit the mast so that I can drop a couple of lines down to simulate shrouds, then I can line the chains and dead eyes up correctly. Also, for future reference fit the chains then add the reinforcing strips, it does save these problems. Rick
- 92 replies
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- artesania latina
- le renard
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We've all done something similar at least once!! Rick
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Bilge pumps! Needed as much as water barrels 😉 I sat mine where you've got the barrels but there's plenty of room just aft of the barrels for two pumps. Great representation of the cutter. 😊 Rick
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I keep a small supply of .5, .6 & .7 mm drills. All cheap Chinese but for the amount of time I need them (and break them) they work fine. I see you've beefed up the davits etc. as well. Or were they supplied in the kit in that thickness? Making good progress now. Rick
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Much better (and stable) stand, plus doubling the thickness of the other components gives a more realistic look to the kit. You only going with the one anchor? I did purchase a second one and have rigged them slightly differently. Rick
- 110 replies
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- le renard
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When you do get this far, consider placing a yoke on the cross bar. Currently there is no support for the boom when the sail is not hoist, this seems to me an obvious place for a "rest" and that's the way I worked. There is a photo out there showing the replica with a rest (removable I assume) on the stern but like a lot of other bits and pieces it seems to be a matter of "best guess" . Rick
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28 on my version of the ship!! 😄 Rick
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I lashed all mine. No wire twists used anywhere, I'm afraid I pretty well junked the whole AL rigging plans and used my copy of Petersson's Rigging fore and aft craft. In addition I hunted the net for photos of the current replica to check on how it has actually been rigged as the instructions are really a drastically cut down and basic "looks good" set up. If you check my photo here https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24327-le-renard-by-gaffrig-artesania-latina-scale-150/page/3/ you should be able to see what I've done. Rick
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You could join this forum and ask for some assistance in locating a Kiwi Hurricane pilot. http://www.rafcommands.com/forum/forum.php The guys there are very helpful and have a wealth of knowledge between them all. Rick
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Have you decided how you're going to handle the anchor cables? Mine run across the deck and down through the main hatch which needed holes cut in the "grating". Note also only one anchor provided not the two that the original would have carried. Rick
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Hi Tom - rather than hijack any more of Gafriggs build I'm happy to tell you how I've arranged various items here. I've fought with this kit for eight months now and have decided that I'll claim it as my "representation" of the original given that the plans really only follow the replica not the original. Looking good so far. Rick
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Hi Tom, One of the AL problems is less than clear instructions. In this case the "connections" are eye bolts, just above and forrard of them is a hole that the running rigging for the yard arms is passed through before attaching to the relevant knight heads. I rigged mine model with somewhat more complexity than AL show, so if you look at this photo you'll see a block at the yard arm tips. The yard brace is then run up to the block and back down, through the gunwales and then looped round the knighthead (if that's the right word). It just makes more sense to me to run the braces this way than the way AL illustrate. These two shots should make it clearer. Apologies for sort of hijacking your thread here Gafrigg 😞 Forgot the cleats - just a drop of supa glue and a prayer that I didn't become part of the attachment. Rick
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Thanks for the nice comments. As for the stand - it's an old one that I use when building as it fits most hull shapes but I will be making one myself as the supplied one just doesn't sit right. I'm not adding sails as I feel that the supplied ones aren't convincing enough and my skills aren't such that I can make them from scratch. Still got the case to make and one or two little bits to tidy up but otherwise that's it. I had a fair bit of trouble interpreting the rigging plans supplied and eventually reverted to Petersson's "Rigging fore and aft craft" for help, so what you see isn't quite as proposed. Rick
- 110 replies
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- le renard
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Love the dinghy, particularly the rope bumper. I chose to provide two seats rather than the single that you've provided. I've finished mine after a reasonable tussle with the rigging, eventually examining photos of the replica, models of le Cerf and various American cutters of that period as the French rigging seemed to compare with the American style rather than British navy. Anyway here are a few (bad) shots of the finished product. Rick
- 110 replies
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Long time since my build but if I recall correctly I used Lego blocks as squares for the bulkheads and transom. Nice and square and they fit neatly between keel and bulkheads. Have fun with it. 😄 Rick
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Heads up for you - if you haven't already I'd dump the furry rigging thread AL supply and change to one of the others. I use mainly Amati, it's much better quality without any of the fluff that the AL stuff has. I'm using a combination of 1 mm black for the main stay, .5 mm and .1 mm in both black and natural for the balance of the standing and running rigging. Looks more proportional to me. Rick
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I'm thinking I should let you get ahead of me for a while then I can check with you for instruction errors/omissions. 😉 I'm just starting on the masts already I've one error, but at least it isn't hard to fix. Main mast requires the top to be painted black for 62 mm, the only trouble is that the cheeks fitted under the "crows nest" are 26 mm long which added to the 52 mm tip of mast to "crows nest" isn't the 62 mm indicated on the instructions!! So it needs 80 mm of black to work properly. The next bit is just personal preference. I can't see that the shrouds on the top mast would be tied directly to the mast without anything preventing them slipping down as they expand/contract with the weather, so I've provided a shoulder to loop them over, a little delicate rough carving it but I got there. I'll fully dress the masts before fixing them in place and I'll probably just use the various stays to hold the main mast in place rather than glue it as I find this just as effective with no fear of it moving whilst the glue sets. Rick
- 110 replies
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- le renard
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