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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    I don't know if it's due to the photography or not, but it does seem to have a slight longitudinal curve. Noticeable in the first side shot and last head-on shot. If so, at this stage packing out a filler on the inner side of the curve should be enough to fix it. I run a steel straight edge along the keel when I check mine as I fit any fillers. Basically how I handled mine, I also fitted these items before planking, not after as the instructions indicate. Rick
  2. Rick01
    I usually temporarily fit the mast so that I can drop a couple of lines down to simulate shrouds, then I can line the chains and dead eyes up correctly. Also, for future reference fit the chains then add the reinforcing strips, it does save these problems. Rick
  3. Rick01
    We've all done something similar at least once!! Rick
  4. Rick01
    Bilge pumps! Needed as much as water barrels 😉 I sat mine where you've got the barrels but there's plenty of room just aft of the barrels for two pumps. Great representation of the cutter. 😊 Rick
  5. Rick01
    I keep a small supply of .5, .6 & .7 mm drills. All cheap Chinese but for the amount of time I need them (and break them) they work fine. I see you've beefed up the davits etc. as well. Or were they supplied in the kit in that thickness? Making good progress now. Rick
  6. Rick01
    Much better (and stable) stand, plus doubling the thickness of the other components gives a more realistic look to the kit. You only going with the one anchor? I did purchase a second one and have rigged them slightly differently. Rick
  7. Rick01
    When you do get this far, consider placing a yoke on the cross bar. Currently there is no support for the boom when the sail is not hoist, this seems to me an obvious place for a "rest" and that's the way I worked. There is a photo out there showing the replica with a rest (removable I assume) on the stern but like a lot of other bits and pieces it seems to be a matter of "best guess" . Rick
  8. Rick01
    28 on my version of the ship!! 😄 Rick
  9. Rick01
    I lashed all mine. No wire twists used anywhere, I'm afraid I pretty well junked the whole AL rigging plans and used my copy of Petersson's Rigging fore and aft craft. In addition I hunted the net for photos of the current replica to check on how it has actually been rigged as the instructions are really a drastically cut down and basic "looks good" set up. If you check my photo here https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24327-le-renard-by-gaffrig-artesania-latina-scale-150/page/3/ you should be able to see what I've done. Rick
  10. Rick01
    You could join this forum and ask for some assistance in locating a Kiwi Hurricane pilot. http://www.rafcommands.com/forum/forum.php The guys there are very helpful and have a wealth of knowledge between them all. Rick
  11. Rick01
    Have you decided how you're going to handle the anchor cables? Mine run across the deck and down through the main hatch which needed holes cut in the "grating". Note also only one anchor provided not the two that the original would have carried. Rick
  12. Rick01
    Hi Tom - rather than hijack any more of Gafriggs build I'm happy to tell you how I've arranged various items here. I've fought with this kit for eight months now and have decided that I'll claim it as my "representation" of the original given that the plans really only follow the replica not the original. Looking good so far. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Hi Tom, One of the AL problems is less than clear instructions. In this case the "connections" are eye bolts, just above and forrard of them is a hole that the running rigging for the yard arms is passed through before attaching to the relevant knight heads. I rigged mine model with somewhat more complexity than AL show, so if you look at this photo you'll see a block at the yard arm tips. The yard brace is then run up to the block and back down, through the gunwales and then looped round the knighthead (if that's the right word). It just makes more sense to me to run the braces this way than the way AL illustrate. These two shots should make it clearer. Apologies for sort of hijacking your thread here Gafrigg 😞 Forgot the cleats - just a drop of supa glue and a prayer that I didn't become part of the attachment. Rick
  14. Rick01
    Thanks for the nice comments. As for the stand - it's an old one that I use when building as it fits most hull shapes but I will be making one myself as the supplied one just doesn't sit right. I'm not adding sails as I feel that the supplied ones aren't convincing enough and my skills aren't such that I can make them from scratch. Still got the case to make and one or two little bits to tidy up but otherwise that's it. I had a fair bit of trouble interpreting the rigging plans supplied and eventually reverted to Petersson's "Rigging fore and aft craft" for help, so what you see isn't quite as proposed. Rick
  15. Rick01
    Love the dinghy, particularly the rope bumper. I chose to provide two seats rather than the single that you've provided. I've finished mine after a reasonable tussle with the rigging, eventually examining photos of the replica, models of le Cerf and various American cutters of that period as the French rigging seemed to compare with the American style rather than British navy. Anyway here are a few (bad) shots of the finished product. Rick
  16. Rick01
    Long time since my build but if I recall correctly I used Lego blocks as squares for the bulkheads and transom. Nice and square and they fit neatly between keel and bulkheads. Have fun with it. 😄 Rick
  17. Rick01
    Heads up for you - if you haven't already I'd dump the furry rigging thread AL supply and change to one of the others. I use mainly Amati, it's much better quality without any of the fluff that the AL stuff has. I'm using a combination of 1 mm black for the main stay, .5 mm and .1 mm in both black and natural for the balance of the standing and running rigging. Looks more proportional to me. Rick
  18. Rick01
    I'm thinking I should let you get ahead of me for a while then I can check with you for instruction errors/omissions. 😉 I'm just starting on the masts already I've one error, but at least it isn't hard to fix. Main mast requires the top to be painted black for 62 mm, the only trouble is that the cheeks fitted under the "crows nest" are 26 mm long which added to the 52 mm tip of mast to "crows nest" isn't the 62 mm indicated on the instructions!! So it needs 80 mm of black to work properly. The next bit is just personal preference. I can't see that the shrouds on the top mast would be tied directly to the mast without anything preventing them slipping down as they expand/contract with the weather, so I've provided a shoulder to loop them over, a little delicate rough carving it but I got there. I'll fully dress the masts before fixing them in place and I'll probably just use the various stays to hold the main mast in place rather than glue it as I find this just as effective with no fear of it moving whilst the glue sets. Rick
  19. Rick01
    I based my thoughts on the traveller on a number of cutters built during the appropriate period, this link gives a close-up of the bowsprit for le Cerf a slightly larger French cutter of a similar period. https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/34-monographie-du-cerf-cotre-1778.html . I agree the bowsprit does retract but probably no more than the length of the squared off section, however as my experience with sailing is in a negative value I can only look and guess based on what seems to me to be the simplest solution. 😉 There is one item I've added and that's the bilge pumps which you may also see in this link. As there don't appear to be any set dimensions for these pumps mine do vary somewhat from the illustrated ones (found after I'd built them) but at least they do help with deck furniture. Rick 🙂
  20. Rick01
    Quick "Heads Up". Have you looked at the rigging book yet? Not the best one I've ever seen and there appear to be a number of short cuts being used. It seems to be missing the traveller with its in-haul and out-haul. As far as I can see this has just been replaced by a block wired to the end of the bowsprit, so it you're near fitting it you may want to consider constructing the traveller ring etc. before fitting the end ring on the bowsprit. Do you have any other books giving basic rigging for this type of ship? It will help interpret these instructions. Rick
  21. Rick01
    You're welcome to use any ideas I put up - that's what the forum is all about! With my bowsprit I've made a separate octagonal section that I intended fitting to a shortened dowel (after tapering). Before I go down that route however I think I'll try your method. By the way, that's a lovely paint job you've done, talking of which I'm puzzled by the suggestion that gun port lids be painted red on the inner face. This will end up with a rather odd checkerboard pattern on the inner face of the gunwales, just doesn't make sense to me. I'm actually considering leaving the lids off as 99% of all cutters of this size (and bigger) have open ports check this as a sample https://www.amarsenal.be/fr/membres-modeles/helmut-dejardin/le-cerf . Rick
  22. Rick01
    Welcome Andrew - beginning to look like we have enough Aussies to set up a sub-forum by now! Rick (Another Locked Down Victorian) 🙂
  23. Rick01
    ... and my revised boat davits and boat. The davits and cross bar were doubled in thickness 5mm removed from the davits length and the holes for the block and tackle were set back 5 mm from the end. This is all based on a couple of photos I found on line for the replica and make more sense than the kit version. The boat is also built as a clinker design. Rick
  24. Rick01
    Whilst I'm re-writing the instructions I've made an executive decision and gone down a different route for the fore fife rail. This is an illustration of belaying pin spacing on a working replica ship of the same period. This is the fife rail with pins fitted as per kit instructions. Very close together, I am using slightly larger pins but even with the metal ones supplied it was still to tight. So off came the original rail, a quick look around the internet and I've come up with an acceptable solution based on other contemporary models. You'll also notice two hawse holes where I intend bringing the anchor cable onto the deck rather than through the hull into what would probably be crew quarters. In the replica they must have had an electric winch below decks, whereas originally the anchor would have been been hoist by either windlass or block and tackle as a best guess. The next interesting build will be the octagonal section on the bowsprit - as it stands I can't see that their instructions will work. Rick
  25. Rick01
    Remember that the davits holding the boat will hide some "mis-fitting" of the cap rail. However as with the catheads these will need to be doubled in thickness. Currently the kit asks you to believe that the ship's boat is held safely by a couple of 2 metre lengths of timber 10 cm sq. Here's my version. ... and here's an illustration of a more realistic method of rigging the lifts. Similar to the catheads rigging. I've been looking at the various photos of the replica and it seems that the arms should also be shorter as the boat when hoist appears very close to the transom - still thinking about that item. Rick

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