Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click here to order
×
Special NRG Webstore Information - See NRG News and Information
×
Bob Blarney
-
Posts
467 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Cheap Chinese Table Saw...
Perhaps the membership could start a separate discussion about safe cutting techniques for modelmakers' saws. I have methods that I employ on my full-size cabinet saw, but I'm not certain that they're applicable to small saws. Generally, a sled that carries stock has several advantages. But in the meantime, here's a video for you to view, about how to safely resaw thin veneer slices on a bandsaw. I believe the technique can be scaled down:
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from kuya in Cheap Chinese Table Saw...
It looks like you've thought this through. Until you put a decent sharp blade on it, I'm not sure you'll have an assessment of the runout/slop in the arbor bearings. One thing you could do that would probably help is to make/buy some stiffener-stabilizers to place on the arbor beside the blade. Another thing that you might do instead of screwing down some perfectly good walnut to the table, would be to put down a thin layer of baltic birch with plastic laminate (or just acrylic window glazing) on top for a smooth surface. A sled would improve performance too, and maybe a better fence is a good idea.
Oh, and if those miter slots are 3/4" wide, then you might be interested to know that US pennies are exactly 3/4" in diameter. I've glued them to sticks used as runners for sleds on my full-sized table saw.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Moab in Cheap Chinese Table Saw...
It looks like you've thought this through. Until you put a decent sharp blade on it, I'm not sure you'll have an assessment of the runout/slop in the arbor bearings. One thing you could do that would probably help is to make/buy some stiffener-stabilizers to place on the arbor beside the blade. Another thing that you might do instead of screwing down some perfectly good walnut to the table, would be to put down a thin layer of baltic birch with plastic laminate (or just acrylic window glazing) on top for a smooth surface. A sled would improve performance too, and maybe a better fence is a good idea.
Oh, and if those miter slots are 3/4" wide, then you might be interested to know that US pennies are exactly 3/4" in diameter. I've glued them to sticks used as runners for sleds on my full-sized table saw.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from tmj in Cheap Chinese Table Saw...
It looks like you've thought this through. Until you put a decent sharp blade on it, I'm not sure you'll have an assessment of the runout/slop in the arbor bearings. One thing you could do that would probably help is to make/buy some stiffener-stabilizers to place on the arbor beside the blade. Another thing that you might do instead of screwing down some perfectly good walnut to the table, would be to put down a thin layer of baltic birch with plastic laminate (or just acrylic window glazing) on top for a smooth surface. A sled would improve performance too, and maybe a better fence is a good idea.
Oh, and if those miter slots are 3/4" wide, then you might be interested to know that US pennies are exactly 3/4" in diameter. I've glued them to sticks used as runners for sleds on my full-sized table saw.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Gregory in Cheap Chinese Table Saw...
It looks like you've thought this through. Until you put a decent sharp blade on it, I'm not sure you'll have an assessment of the runout/slop in the arbor bearings. One thing you could do that would probably help is to make/buy some stiffener-stabilizers to place on the arbor beside the blade. Another thing that you might do instead of screwing down some perfectly good walnut to the table, would be to put down a thin layer of baltic birch with plastic laminate (or just acrylic window glazing) on top for a smooth surface. A sled would improve performance too, and maybe a better fence is a good idea.
Oh, and if those miter slots are 3/4" wide, then you might be interested to know that US pennies are exactly 3/4" in diameter. I've glued them to sticks used as runners for sleds on my full-sized table saw.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Cheap Chinese Table Saw...
It looks like you've thought this through. Until you put a decent sharp blade on it, I'm not sure you'll have an assessment of the runout/slop in the arbor bearings. One thing you could do that would probably help is to make/buy some stiffener-stabilizers to place on the arbor beside the blade. Another thing that you might do instead of screwing down some perfectly good walnut to the table, would be to put down a thin layer of baltic birch with plastic laminate (or just acrylic window glazing) on top for a smooth surface. A sled would improve performance too, and maybe a better fence is a good idea.
Oh, and if those miter slots are 3/4" wide, then you might be interested to know that US pennies are exactly 3/4" in diameter. I've glued them to sticks used as runners for sleds on my full-sized table saw.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in Swann-Morton Scapel
There is another way to instrument tie other than as shown in the video. It involves passing the longer end of the thread alternatively over and then under the jaws of the instrument. It is also useful when space is restricted. I'll see if I can find a video that shows it, or maybe I'll make a vid if I have some time to set up a 'studio'.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in What brand of #11 blades do you use
I prefer Bard Parker Rib-Back - they have a strengthening spine.
https://us.vwr.com/store/product/4637618/bard-parker-rib-back-carbon-steel-scalpel-blades-nos-1015-sterile-aspen-surgical
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in mni lathe
That's $20 worth of my time. And that looks like an extrusion of standard dimensions that I might be able to find i a longer length. And if I couldn't, I suppose a carefully dressed piece of wood or baltic birch ply would be adequate.
-
.thumb.jpeg.fc5d633a7b34428fcf19419a73d56d55.jpeg)
Bob Blarney got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in a wooden plane for sharpening plane irons, chisels, and maybe other things
Hello, I hope you might find this useful.
I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound.
https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
I'm not familiar with this particular jointer, but It's possible to make or buy a block of wood with neodymium magnets embedded in the surface. These will hold the blade at the correct height while cinching down the locking screws. Another source of very powerful magnet is from disassembling an old computer hard disk. You'll also obtain a very very flat mirror-polished disk that is an excellent front-surface mirror. I use it for various things, but that's another story.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Voyageur in a wooden plane for sharpening plane irons, chisels, and maybe other things
Hello, I hope you might find this useful.
I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound.
https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from BANYAN in a wooden plane for sharpening plane irons, chisels, and maybe other things
Hello, I hope you might find this useful.
I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound.
https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
I'm not familiar with this particular jointer, but It's possible to make or buy a block of wood with neodymium magnets embedded in the surface. These will hold the blade at the correct height while cinching down the locking screws. Another source of very powerful magnet is from disassembling an old computer hard disk. You'll also obtain a very very flat mirror-polished disk that is an excellent front-surface mirror. I use it for various things, but that's another story.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in a wooden plane for sharpening plane irons, chisels, and maybe other things
Hello, I hope you might find this useful.
I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound.
https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in a wooden plane for sharpening plane irons, chisels, and maybe other things
Hello, I hope you might find this useful.
I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound.
https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in a wooden plane for sharpening plane irons, chisels, and maybe other things
Hello, I hope you might find this useful.
I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound.
https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Ryland Craze in a wooden plane for sharpening plane irons, chisels, and maybe other things
Hello, I hope you might find this useful.
I really prefer to use a blade on wood instead of sanding. It's quicker, gives a better surface, and doesn't produce airborne dust or noise. But this necessitates keeping the irons and chisels sharp. Here's a link about how I do it, using a shopmade wooden plane, a granite floor tile and abrasive autobody papers (100-2000 grit), and/or an optional diamond stone. I neglected to discuss stropping on a leather-covered board charged with abrasive compound.
https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6105
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Archi in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
If it sounds like hammering, the blades are dull. (By the way, never plane wood that has any kind of finish on it - that will destroy blades.)
If there are longitudinal lines on the wood, then the blades are nicked. It may be possible to shift one blade slightly to one side so that that blade will compensate for the defect.
It's possible to hand plane to thickness. Below, you can see how I planed a guitar backplate to 3/32" (2.3 mm) by this technique. I placed 3/32" plywood on either side of the rosewood, roughed it down with the No.4 plane, and then used the No.6 plane to plane to final thickness by riding the toe and heel of the plane on the plywood, with the blade cutting only the rosewood. The paste wax on the soles of the planes greatly reduces friction and allows me to put most of the work into cutting the hard rosewood. The wax does not cause any problems with finishing or gluing. I've also planed to 1/16" by placing plastic laminate (e.g. for kitchen countertop) on either side of the stock and then passing the plane over all with the blade cutting the only the stock. Thus the laminate controls the final thickness.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
Here is a handplaning jig that may be more applicable and convenient for you. It's possible to make this type of jig adjustable for any thickness that you desire.
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/thickness-planing/
The easily adjustable jig: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-72513-precision-planing-jig/
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
If it sounds like hammering, the blades are dull. (By the way, never plane wood that has any kind of finish on it - that will destroy blades.)
If there are longitudinal lines on the wood, then the blades are nicked. It may be possible to shift one blade slightly to one side so that that blade will compensate for the defect.
It's possible to hand plane to thickness. Below, you can see how I planed a guitar backplate to 3/32" (2.3 mm) by this technique. I placed 3/32" plywood on either side of the rosewood, roughed it down with the No.4 plane, and then used the No.6 plane to plane to final thickness by riding the toe and heel of the plane on the plywood, with the blade cutting only the rosewood. The paste wax on the soles of the planes greatly reduces friction and allows me to put most of the work into cutting the hard rosewood. The wax does not cause any problems with finishing or gluing. I've also planed to 1/16" by placing plastic laminate (e.g. for kitchen countertop) on either side of the stock and then passing the plane over all with the blade cutting the only the stock. Thus the laminate controls the final thickness.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
If it sounds like hammering, the blades are dull. (By the way, never plane wood that has any kind of finish on it - that will destroy blades.)
If there are longitudinal lines on the wood, then the blades are nicked. It may be possible to shift one blade slightly to one side so that that blade will compensate for the defect.
It's possible to hand plane to thickness. Below, you can see how I planed a guitar backplate to 3/32" (2.3 mm) by this technique. I placed 3/32" plywood on either side of the rosewood, roughed it down with the No.4 plane, and then used the No.6 plane to plane to final thickness by riding the toe and heel of the plane on the plywood, with the blade cutting only the rosewood. The paste wax on the soles of the planes greatly reduces friction and allows me to put most of the work into cutting the hard rosewood. The wax does not cause any problems with finishing or gluing. I've also planed to 1/16" by placing plastic laminate (e.g. for kitchen countertop) on either side of the stock and then passing the plane over all with the blade cutting the only the stock. Thus the laminate controls the final thickness.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from Jolley Roger in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
If it sounds like hammering, the blades are dull. (By the way, never plane wood that has any kind of finish on it - that will destroy blades.)
If there are longitudinal lines on the wood, then the blades are nicked. It may be possible to shift one blade slightly to one side so that that blade will compensate for the defect.
It's possible to hand plane to thickness. Below, you can see how I planed a guitar backplate to 3/32" (2.3 mm) by this technique. I placed 3/32" plywood on either side of the rosewood, roughed it down with the No.4 plane, and then used the No.6 plane to plane to final thickness by riding the toe and heel of the plane on the plywood, with the blade cutting only the rosewood. The paste wax on the soles of the planes greatly reduces friction and allows me to put most of the work into cutting the hard rosewood. The wax does not cause any problems with finishing or gluing. I've also planed to 1/16" by placing plastic laminate (e.g. for kitchen countertop) on either side of the stock and then passing the plane over all with the blade cutting the only the stock. Thus the laminate controls the final thickness.
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
Here is a handplaning jig that may be more applicable and convenient for you. It's possible to make this type of jig adjustable for any thickness that you desire.
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/thickness-planing/
The easily adjustable jig: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-72513-precision-planing-jig/
-
Bob Blarney got a reaction from druxey in Proxxon Planer DH40 Issue
If it sounds like hammering, the blades are dull. (By the way, never plane wood that has any kind of finish on it - that will destroy blades.)
If there are longitudinal lines on the wood, then the blades are nicked. It may be possible to shift one blade slightly to one side so that that blade will compensate for the defect.
It's possible to hand plane to thickness. Below, you can see how I planed a guitar backplate to 3/32" (2.3 mm) by this technique. I placed 3/32" plywood on either side of the rosewood, roughed it down with the No.4 plane, and then used the No.6 plane to plane to final thickness by riding the toe and heel of the plane on the plywood, with the blade cutting only the rosewood. The paste wax on the soles of the planes greatly reduces friction and allows me to put most of the work into cutting the hard rosewood. The wax does not cause any problems with finishing or gluing. I've also planed to 1/16" by placing plastic laminate (e.g. for kitchen countertop) on either side of the stock and then passing the plane over all with the blade cutting the only the stock. Thus the laminate controls the final thickness.
Our Emblem ®
