davyboy

Ciao ☺️
 
All raw:

work ion progress are slow but steady, lot of practice, still some improvement to be set.
 
ac

Hi
Some works on the Mahonesa battery pont
 
 
Adrián Sorolla
 
 
 
 

Continuing on the outside of the hull, we arrive at the fore ship, preparation of the curves  bowsprint and the eyes of a ship:
 

 

 


 


 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 


 
cordially

Hello everybody,

Small progress has been made; the columns supporting the transom arch, are now in place.
Attached are a few pictures of the corinthian capitals being made and the finished columns on the model.
 

 

 

 
 
The corinthian capitals are difficult; apart from the scale (they are 7x7 mm at the base), they are tilted outwards and forwards.
I'm trying to manage without the 3D specialists and their milling machines for this model. Of course, they can do this kind of thing better, but somehow you want to try it yourself. Let's see if I can keep it up until I get to the figures...
 

 

 

 
Here are my cardboard laser-cut strips for the gun port hinges. The parts were dabbed with Tamiya aging powder, color: soot.
 

 

Best regards,
Matthias
 

The main wale jig-saw pieces are installed on the stbd side. I've one piece to add to the port side and then some sanding.
I think I've done an acceptable job of it for my very first ever (and likely last) time.
I found it very difficult, in fact impossible, to make the one side perfectly identical to the other. Human error.
The saving grace is you cannot look at both sides at the same time... except from the bow and stern, in which case they seem to match fairly well.

I did receive one personal message regarding the my bow: "The sheer should flatten out under the hawse holes as it heads to the bow rabbet."
I've looked into it quickly and found my measurements and layout for the underside of the main wale is correct. The width (up/down) expanded a wee bit in cutting out and shaping, and the top side was initially wet and pinched when clamped. The top sides on port and starboard match.
I need to go into it in more depth after I get the stern completed. Some adjustments are in order. I am certain there is accumulative error involved in the top side of the wales and the underside of the hawse holes.
Some slight of hand may be in order.

Some more done on Le Rochefort.
 
Taking the advice given I made some pads for the gudgeons on the un-planked side and also recessed them further into the stern post.  Great advice as they definitely look and fit better.  I did make a real mess of the recesses though - Now I know what I know I would mill these when making the stern post in the future.  It would make the process much easier and tidier.  I don't think these pieces are my best work and the rudder does sit slightly high but I've learnt a lot during the process.
 




A picture of the ship with the rudder fitted

The next part to make was the tiller arm which is quite a prominent part so it needed to be as accurate as possible.  I made the arm and the knob on the end separately and used a treenail to help get a good bond between the two parts. 
 


I also straightened up the metal banding around the rudder to make it all look a bit better.





Another little milestone in my build is now complete.  I am so tempted to now finish off the stern and fit the railings and taff rail but I know that they will get broken at some point.  So instead I will resist this and make the main hatches and the pumps.
 
Thanks for the help
 
Mark

Front deck - deck clamps, deck beams.

My thoughts also,the Helmsman must have had bruised ribs fairly often. I imagine relieving tackles would have been fitted though nothing on the original model shows this.
 
Dave 

Ciao☺️

Good morning.

Mounting platforms for main caliber guns.

The mainmast is almost completely assembled.

Assembling the upper platform.

Thank you all for your feedback and likes, and I continue...
 
Mainmast.
Soldering the ladder brackets and assembling the tripod.

Ciao ☺️
 
 

Ciao ☺️
 
 

Its time to start on the head of the ship.
First the starboard side showing the portlids. The were not hinged and the two halflids were removed before running out the gun. The tip of the gun and its tompion plugged the hole when portlid closed.

The next pic shows the several components of the head including the hooked gammoning knee, the knee of the head and curved cheekpieces. 

Thinner filling pieces have been made to go between the curved cheeks

the assembled head prior to final shaping. Note the hook on the gammoning knee to accept the stay. This was comon french practice.

a trial attachment with duble side tape and a clamp to make sure the gammoning knee lines up with the stempost and support for bowsprit

Dick

And here is the other version...or one of them just so they are all in the same place.  This was the different lower counter design.   
 

 
sternfriezespeed.pdf
 

I was in model-building deprivation, with no time to do anything and not even to document what I had already built.

The version of the Launch with sails has to be stored in the back for now, as martens have damaged it by chewing on the sails ...

That's why I continued with the version equipped with a davit for anchoring and fishing. Here some pictures last stage.

First, there was the question of where to put the cable that had been hauled up. Instinctively, I had stowed it in the bow during the first test.

But in order to attach a pulley to the capstan that can only be attached forwards to the stem and the cable accordingly had to go to the rear. So I decided to store it in the middle of the boat, which is also better balanced, and you can see that this is a good solution.

But first, a little bit of small stuff, which also makes a difference http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

The pulleys are pre-assembled; this one should hang loosely, so I shaped it with wallpaper glue.

The grapnel anchor and ladles have also arrived.

To tie in the anchor rope, I clamped a pair of tweezers in my vice.


And then I built a nice bunch with the rest of the rope.

And here it is the small menagerie.

And now it got pleasantly exciting, but see for yourself...












While two lads secure the pulley, the capstan bar is being changed on the other side. The lieutenant keeps a watchful eye on the whole process, while one man checks to see if anything is happening at the back end at the cable. In the middle, one man holds the cable taut and clears it neatly. That setup certainly wouldn't have worked with the rope at the front in the bow, as crowded as it already is there.

Cheers, Daniel

Exactly as wefalck says using a slitting blade. I get good results using quite a course 4” diameter blade and attach the brass to a piece of wood. 

Yes, I understand you. Apparently, it's something like this machine.
On these rollers, the square that is produced is indeed far from ideal.

After removing the wire from the drum and removing the manufacturing allowances, I obtained 2.1 m of the semicircular profile I needed.
I think that with a little modification to the drum, it could also be used to produce a square profile.

After being sharpened with a cutter, the wire on the drum took on this appearance.

Then I wound it with 2 mm diameter wire and inserted the drum into the lathe. The length of wire that fit onto this drum was 2.3 m.