davyboy

Sorry, Piet, but I don't see the fuse screwed into the nose of that shell for the deck gun!  
 
John

What I should have added yesterday is one more reason for me having the gantry boom hanging kinda low is that I need to run antenna wires over the top of the gantry.  Normally, when loading a torpedo the boom is pulled up to a higher angle, of course, to get a good loading angle on the torpedo.  I don't know yet if I'll change things later on to show the torp actually being in the process of sliding into the loading tube below deck.  That would really be the cat's meow but then I would also need a bunch of characters on deck handling the operation and that's not in the plans - - - so far    But one never knows - - - - - -
 
Today has been very slow in the dockyard.  I have been mulling things over to what project / model I should tackle next.  I have been procrastinating the propellers for many months now and think it's time to cut the mustard - grab the bull by the horns - and make the props.  I'm really a little apprehensive tackling this difficult project.  But then again, I have enough copper sheet so I can botch-up a lot of blades.  
 
As I was thinking and thinking I made a proto shell for the deck gun.  I wanted to see what was involved making a bunch to fight off those large and heavy guns from Sjors and Mobbsy and perhaps a few others who want to do battle             
I know, they need to be a little smaller and the grenade more pointy but the idea is there.  At least I don't have to make powder bags, water mops, stampers and steel balls 
I have not filled the shell with black powder (yet) so it's still a dummy ((like me  ))
 
One thing I see is that I really should use brass for the shell casing, copper won't do.  But it's just a prototype.
 
Thanks everyone for visiting and your likes, it's really very encouraging.
 

Here is the prototype deck gun shell standing on the deck next to the loading breech.  I still need to add the outlines of that on the gun.
 

This is a plastic boat from my Thermopile clipper kit to hang it temporarily on it's boom.  I was tired of seeing a socket wrench hanging off the hook.
 
Cheers,

Thank you Frank !
 
And Popeye, this reminds me nicely on an issue we had already :-)
 
...
 
Nelson: "Damn it man! We are on the eve of the greatest sea battle in 
history. We must advance with all dispatch. Report from the crow's 
nest please." 

Hardy: "That won't be possible, sir." 

Nelson: "What?" 

Hardy: "Health and Safety have closed the crow's nest, sir. No 
harness; and they said that rope ladders don't meet regulations. They 
won't let anyone up there until a proper scaffolding can be erected." 

Nelson: "Then get me the ship's carpenter without delay, Hardy." 

Hardy: "He's busy knocking up a wheelchair access to the foredeck 
Admiral." 

Nelson: "Wheelchair access? I've never heard anything so absurd." 

Hardy: "Health and safety again, sir. We have to provide a 
barrier-free environment for the differently abled." 

Nelson: "Differently abled? I've only one arm and one eye and I refuse 
even to hear mention of the word. I didn't rise to the rank of admiral 
by playing the disability card." 
 
...
 
See:
http://www.strategypage.com/humor/articles/military_jokes_200782222.asp
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3609-politically-correct/?hl=%2Bpolitically+%2Bcorrect
 
XXXDAn

BannnnnnAnnnnna!
 
I still owe you my banana ...
 
... small but important detail: As the man with the lead has no hand to hold himself, he uses a breast belt that is fixed in between the lanyards of the deadeyes.
 
And here he hangs in his belt, throwing the lead far to the front, while the line runs quickly through his fingers, him watching the marks, 2 fathoms leather with 2 stripes, 3 fathoms leather with 3 stripes, 5 fathoms white, 7 fathoms red, 10 fathoms leather with hole 13 fathoms blue, 15 fathoms white, 17 fathoms red  - the line stops, the lead is on the ground, one can hear the chant "By the deep 17".
 

 

 

 
Cheers, BannnnAnnnnaDAn

..... continued.
 
The aft end of the rail finishes in a Knighthead :
 

 
Moldings are cut and scraped into the outboard faces :
 

 
A Planksheer is fitted to the top of the rail to give it protection from the elements and also add a bit of strength. The whole unit is extremely strong, due to it's design :
 

 
The rails fitted to the ship. They need to be carefully placed to ensure they are vertical :
 

 

 

 
No finish has been applied to any of the headworks yet - I'll do that when all parts have been fitted.
 
  Danny

Hello again and today was rather productive and enjoyable.  It's nice when things work and fall into place without any snags.  
 
Started out in the morning finalizing the parts for the dingy loading boom.  I had to install the few 3 mm pulleys in their brackets and secure the pins.  Then I made the cable shackles a bit smaller yet to see if the cables still go around them and it worked.
 
I whipped two of the cables that I put around the shackles and secured them with nail polish.  So I thought why not assemble the whole blooming thing!  It only took about half an hour for the boom and rigging was completed  
 
Then I heard some thunder and figured to quickly mow the backyard before the rain.  Then I had some lunch, read the mail and ventured back into the garage aka the dockyard.  I took a few pics of the assembled loading boom and discovered I had reversed the boom cable and the loading cable, so I quickly re routed them, no prob, done in a few minutes.
 
With the success in making the shackles smaller I now also made the ones for the forward torpedo loading boom smaller and what a difference that makes.  I "quickly" whipped the cables around them and prepped a few more parts for the forward boom.  By that time the grass was dry enough to finish mowing the southside of the backyard.  I don't like to mow when it's whet, I'm using an electric mower and one never knows - - -  
 
By that time it was time to call it quits and downloaded the pics and put them in my O19 file.
 
Okay, here are a few pics of todays work.
 

This shows the whipping of one of the shackles.
 

Here are all the parts laid out for the dingy loading boom on top of the drawing.
 

Here is a side view of the dingy loading boom, sorry about the camera movement.
 

A shot from the rear.
 

Looking straight forward through the torpedo loading gantry at the dingy boom.  It's getting busy.
 

A close-up of the dingy loading boom.  I had to hang some weight on the loading hook to keep the cables taught.
 

A look kinda from above.  I had to stand on a small ladder here. 
 
Cheers,
 

Today I managed completing the rigging of the aft torpedo loading gantry.  I'm not really happy with it, primarily about the cable thimbles.  They are way too large for my scale and look bulky.  I have to do some thinking on how else I can "fake" the thimble issue before I tackle the forward gantry.
 
We are getting into a realm where the real full size thimbles are not much more then perhaps 2 inches long or 1 mm.  There is no way in the world I can make them that small and make 'm look realistic.  
 
For now though I'll just leave things as they are and when I have figured it out for the forward gantry I'll redo the aft one.  
 
Overall it didn't come out too bad and everything works as well, even the boom elevation "come-along" gizmo, which is a plus.
 
I also painted both mines black as well as the torpedo (you see John, I do listen and take advice  ).  They don't look to bad either. Menacing even 
 
Here are a few pics of today's accomplishments.
 

This shows the gantry sideways pretending to load a mine to the deck.  I needed some weight on the boom to keep things from jumping off - - - the "cable" is rather stiff and needs a little tension.  I also temporarily, stuck the torpedo into the loading tube to show the prop and black paint.  This is never done in real life, just in case somebody makes a smart aleck remark       I just wanted to how the finished mines and torpedo painted in black.  Loading torpedoes is a rather delicate operation that requires quite a few men.
The black cord at the exhaust pipe is to haul the torpedoes up or lower them.  In reality this cable is connected to an electric winch below decks. 
 

Here is another shot looking forward,
 

A side view shot with a RG 58 coaxial cable spice thingy for weight.  I still have "stuff" from my days when I owned and operated an aircraft repair facility in New jersey, about two lifetimes ago, or so it seems.  Hmmm, we could call it a secret weapon 
 

So sorry, I moved taking this shot looking forward with the "secret weapon" hanging on the boom.
 
Cheers,

Thanks everyone for dropping by and your likes, it's really much appreciated.
 
Well, the mines are finally finished and painted.  Yuns are probably sick and tired of hearing about and seeing these buggers, well, so am I    On to other things now such as completing the torpedo loading gantries and dingy boom.
 
I managed to engrave remco's name in the 6 mm pulleys and his initials on a few of the 3 mm pulleys, really!  Some of them were not as good as most but it's the idea that counts.
I blackened the pulleys and some other hardware and painted all the pulley brackets licht grey and started to assemble the pulleys into them.
 
I also cemented both the forward and aft gantries to the deck.  Now it's just a matter of mating all the parts and pieces to where they are suppose to go.  
 
This has been a very successful day and expect to have the gantries up and running in the next few days.
 
Here are a few pics to show today's progress on the mines and the pulley engravings.  No sense showing all the hardware because they haven't changed a bit from previous pics, only now they are painted.  I'll show it when the gantries are fully operational.
 

Here are the 6 mm pulleys with Remco's name engraved on them and only 2 of the 3 mm pulleys with his initials, which are hard to see under the glare but they are there.  Unfortunately they are all very hard to see after I blackened them, but rest assured that they are engraved.
 

I have loaded one mine in the bin and placed the other on the deck for show.  You can now also see the arming cable.  I thought to paint the fuse tips red for "danger."  
 

Here is another view of the mines.
 
Cheers,

Since that last view was popular, I will have to take some more. Without the use of mirrors or other micro devices this has to be done while the camera will still fit down in he hull. The picture was taken with a 2 1/2" x 4" Canon Powershot set down onthe keelson. The photo was then cropped. The Powershot is not the smallest of cameras, but it is a lot smaller than the slr I use for most of the pictures. The light from above plays tricks with the colors. I could have done a better job with the post-processing. The picture is a bit light. Here is a better version.
 

 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 65 – Lower deck framing continued
 
More of the same, I’m afraid.  It looks like the lower deck framing is going to take about a month.  The first picture, taken from directly overhead, shows the lower deck framing back as far as the midship beam.
 

 
Once the last beam forward of the midship view port is installed, I intend to work from the stern forward so the last frames will be those at the  view port.  Having only one hanging knee to fit on these beams will reduce the fitting of these in the last tights spaces – and also to allow plenty of room for fitting the aftermost small beams by doing those first.
 
In the next picture a hanging knee is being fit to one of the small beams at the stern.  The limited space is apparent.
 

 
This knee was cut using the new pattern shown in the last post.  In the next picture the installation of that beam has been completed – except for the lodging knees
 

 
The next picture shows the aft framing progressed past the mizzenmast step.
 

 
A ledge is being glued in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the extent of the lower deck framing currently completed.  I need to get going on some of those lodging knees.
 

 
This picture gives a good idea of how for forward the "deadflat" midship frame is placed.  Finally, a look forward below deck along the keelson.
 

 
The height of that keelson is 4 feet above the floor frames.
 
 Ed

The outside planking of the hull is complete. The next step is the main deck, hawse holes and transom framing
 

 

 

 

 
 
The spaces between the protruding main deck beams will become scuppers. I have no idea what form the deck waterways will take yet.
 
Dick

I think certain newspapers and news networks would grab that one and blare it in 72 point type.

All books have to sell. Usually it is of the 'Nelsons favorite ship' , 'the real hornblower' or 'Nelsons favorite leg of beef'  or alternately deliberately trying to wind up more knowledgeable readership i.e 'why america lost the war of 1812' or 'why britain lost the war of 1812', 'Waterloo the German victory' etc etc (one of those is real though I vaguely recollect one of the 1812 ones was used recently as well). 
 
You can imagine what accurate book header text would be
 
'south american huts, in detail!',  'shock news that english midshipman prefers portsmouth tarts to savana lovelies!'

Hello again,
 
I played around a bit with one of the prototype mines to see how the hardware would look.  In doing so I saw several problems with making them all in one piece.  Soooooh, I decided to make them in three sections, the loading lid, the mine body and the sinker.  As explained to Popeye I'll have better control over making the body shape.  It won't add that much time to them but they'll look much better. 
 
As the pictures show I was not particularly careful in cementing some of the hardware to it, it's "just" a prototype to play with.  Now that I figured on a better approach I'll be much more attentive to detail.
 

This shows some of the hardware that'll be cemented to the mine.  There are still a few pieces missing but I figure I'll make them for the real McCoy.  No sense in wasting more time on the prototype.
 

This is a close-up shot so you can see my impatience 
 

Okay, I moved - - - here is the prototype next to the drawing so yuns can see that the hardware matches the drawing.
 

A top view next to the corresponding drawing.  I may make the loading cap bolts from small brass nails and file the round heads into hexagonal shape to mimic real bolt heads, hmmm - - perhaps not   Here I used sewing pins and the heads are still too large.
 
Cheers, 

My thanks to all who came to visit and liked my posts.
 
Today was another doctor visit day and with doctor "Bendover" the proctologist.  I'm kidding of course, his name is not Bendover but Ritter.  We had good news and just keep on trucking   
 
This afternoon I made the dingy tackle handwheels that'll be cemented to the port aft side of the conning tower where the engine exhaust pipe comes up for snorkeling.  I have a photo of the location but the exposure is such that the black painted handwheels do not show.  But I do have a copy of a drawing so yuns get the idea where they are located on the boat.
 
It was a little tricky soldering 0.1 mm  brass wire to the 0.8 mm brass rod that I made into a ring of 5.5 mm OD.  But with enough small heat sinks it worked okay.
 
I also sprayed primer on the gantries and some of the attaching hardware.  The rest of the hardware like the pulley brackets and so will wait till tomorrow after I mow the lawn.
 
Well, that's it for now, pics below.
 

This photo was taken at the commissioning of the O19 where I was present at the ripe old age of 4.  You can't see the handwheels because they blend in with the black paint but they are located under the light fixture cutout.  The drawing below will show it better.
 

This drawing shows clearly where these handwheels are located and you can even see how the cables run.
 

This show how I secured the 0.1 mm brass wire to the 0.8 mm brass ring.  This steel office clamp also served as a heat-sink.  To solder the cross spoke I used a second clamp, it was kinda getting crowded and had to crank the heat up on the soldering iron.  
 

This shows the completed handwheels.  Don't forget that this is extreme magnification and shows all the little scratches and solder I was not able to clean away.
 

This shows the torpedo loading boom secured to it's securing fixture that'll be cemented to the deck.  It's now also painted as we speak. 
 

This is an extreme close-up of the boom secured to the deck fixture.
 
Cheers,

Thanks to everyone who came and visited my shipyard and your likes, much appreciated!!
 
@ Ian:  Thank you Ian for visiting.  Yes indeed, the fingers do a splendid job but, as you said, they are also closer to the tools like files and drill bits.  But so far I have been lucky with just a few minor scrapes and punctures.
 
Today I finished up on all the pulley brackets needed for both the front and aft torpedo loading gantries and the dingy loading boom.  Soooooh - - - I really needed to do something about those pesky thimbles.  I wrecked my poor brain on that for several days in how in the world I could make thimbles close enough to scale.  So, as I was mowing the front yard I thought about it and hit on a possible solution.  It was one of those "ah yes, of course with a slap to the forehead" moments 
 
After lunch I went back into the hot garage and started on the prototype for a thimble.  I took a 0.5 mm brass rod and bend it into a thimble shape as small as I could possible make it. I figured that if I sandwich it between two 0.1 mm brass shim pieces and file then to be a little larger then the bend piece rod I would have a workable thimble.
 
After about one hour I had the prototype done and found it to be quite workable.  I even wrapped a 0.021 inch rigging cord to it.  This'll need some practice or go for a smaller diameter cable.  I may have to visit a sporting goods store for fishing line as John Texnn5 suggested.
 
Now that I had the process pretty well in hand I made the second one, which turned out really good and is just slight larger then scale but once on the boat it'll not be too noticeable, I hope     This one took "only" 45 minutes.
 
Then I made a second one and that one came out slightly smaller yet, so I know that I can make them close to scale.  The problem comes in with the center hole for the attaching pin.  This is the limiting factor in size and I must be satisfied with it.
 
Okay, here are a few pics showing me efforts with the thimbles.
 

This shows the parts for the thimble.  A smal pice of 0.5 mm brass rod bend into a thimble shape and a piece of tinned 0.1 mm brass shim.  I put them on my ruler to show the size.
 

This shows the second step in the process.  I first soldered the rod part to the tinned brass shim, then shaped that to a little larger then the rod piece.  Next I drilled the hole in the center of the bend rod for the attaching pin.  The next step is shaping the brass shim to slightly larger then the rod and removing some of the excess solder.  Then I soldered the second piece of brass shim to the rod piece and final shaping the whole assembly. There is really no way to hold that in a pair of pliers so I first cut away most of the excess with a pair of scissors and then filing.  Yes, my poor left index finger took the brunt again with the file    I now reverse drilled the hole in the second shim piece and started to dress everything with a fine file.
 

This shows the completed prototype and as mentioned above, the seizing of the cable needs work.  I'll have to make a jig to hold this thing so the cable doesn't come off and unravel on me.  
 

This is a face side of the first production thimble, 
 

and this is the side view of the first production thimble.   
 
Cheers,

After some garden work I ventured back into the garage a k a shipyard, and tried to finish the dingy boom pulley brackets.  Got all but one done.
 
The raw parts were already made last Friday so I could dig right in.  I started with the top of the boom "loading" bracket.  That one seemed to be the most troublesome because of its shape and not much to hold onto.  
I shaped a small piece of wood to fit inside the pulley location and now I could hold it with a small pair of pliers and my left hand fingers.  This worked just fine and I managed not to ruin it.  After this was done I made two hooks to attach into the holes at each end.  Holes are #77 drill bit for all.
 
Next came the idler pulley with that funky ball end to the cable that attaches this pulley to the top of the boom.  That worked out okay as well, so far no goof-ups      I used a piece of 0.021 inch rigging cord as cable, poked it through a small hole -#77 drill -  and tied a knot in it on the inside of the bracket to simulate the ball end.  The other end will have to go over a simulated thimble.
 
Okay, so far so good, knock on wood    The last one I could manage to do today was the pulley bracket that hooks to the top of the AA gun deck.  For that one I thought to put a swivel-able eye in the end where I can attach a hook into.  This may be to large of an assembly and will most likely make another one that can be pinned directly to the "steel" part of the AA gun deck per the drawing. 
 
I started with the final pulley bracket that hooks onto the dingy or whatever other light loads we may have.  It can even assist with loading the torpedoes.
 
Here are a few pics for yuns to view and critique.
 

This shows the "load"pulley bracket that'll hook to the top of the dingy loading boom.  The next pic shows the side view.
 

This is the side view of the load pulley bracket and yes, all of the brackets still need some final trimming with a small file or sandpaper on a stick.  Yep, that's blood under my nail, poked it with a brass rod trying to pick it up.  Mutter, mutter, domkop.
 

This show the next pulley bracket I have dubbed idler pulley 1.  You may be able to see the knot inside the bracket.
 

This is another view of idler pulley 1. it's 0.15 mm thick.  The bleeding in my thumb stopped and I cleaned it with some water and ordered all the germs to stay away, or else 
 

This bracket I dubbed pulley bracket 2.  The way I made that swivel-eye is to first make an eye rod from 0.5 mm brass and a small piece of 1 mm OD brass rube.  The thickness of that piece of tubing is about 0.2 mm.  I first drilled a hole through the end with a #77 drill bit, then inserted the eye rod and held it with a small wooden clothe pin.  Holding it straight up I then clamped the clothe pin in my mini vice and then soldered the tubing piece to the pin.  I lucked out that I didn't solder everything solid, it swivels !!!!         Yeah, it's getting pretty long this way and then with a hook yet. 
 

This is a close-up of all the parts.  And yes, it still needs some cleaning up with fine sandpaper and then we can prime and paint everything.
 
Cheers,

Again my thanks to everyone for your like votes, I'm overwhelmed.
 
Today I had to split my time in doing some needed garden chores till my back told me to quit before it caused roubles, and the sgipyard.
 
After lunch I tried my other method in making the 3 mm pulley brackets.  I soldered the two strips of 0.1 bras sheets together, making in 0.2 mm.  The joggle had to be narrower of course because the 3 mm pulleys will be 1.5 mm wide.  So instead of using the 0.8 brass bar to bend the sheet I used a knife shaped file.  This really worked great.  Hey, you have to use whatever works 
Next I soldered the two pieces together and started to file the brackets into shape to what the drawing shows.  I had no longer the problem of them twisting when filing them crosswise.  However, I still had to be kinda gentile with it though.  Now I also could make it a little smaller, which really tickled me, I'm a happy camper  
 
Okay, three more of the 6 mm pulley brackets and 4 or 5 more for the dingy gantry and then making the pulleys
 
I think that I'll use the front torpedo loading gantry operable with a torpedo in a sling because other wise the aft part will be too busy with the dingy hanging in its tackle.   Hmmmm, the dingy, that's another model to be made      
 
Oh, btw, I also reduced the diameter of the brass nails to 0.5 mm and reduced the diameter of the head as well.  Now it looks mucho better.
 
No more pictures till all these pulleys are done and the gantries put together.  Yuns are sick and tired by now looking at nothing but pulleys and their brackets     
 
Cheers,

Hello Michael, you see, duck soup baby!  It IS easy, once we know how.  Have I ever lied to you???  
It becomes more interesting when we have to bend thicker and harder metals.  Then we need to calculate the bending radius on what material and thickness other wise it will certainly crack at the outside of the bend.  
 
That's why we had several blades with increasing radii on a rack near our bending brakes.  Oh well, there is a lot more to bending sheet metal then meets the eye and fortunately we don't encounter this much in ship model building     Yup, there's math involved being a good "tin pecker."  
 
 

Hello again all y'all and thanks to all who visited and liked my efforts, much appreciated!
 
Well, we'll continue with the saga of the pulleys.  Today I completed one more 6 mm pulley assembly and one 3 mm pulley assembly.  That 3 mm bugger was a real doozy to do but after a few tries I think I got it.  I may remake this one after I try another method tomorrow.  I'm not quite happy with it but we'll see.  
 
Here is a picture of it and you should realize that the pulley inside the brackets is 3 mm in diameter and 1.5 mm wide for comparison to the size of the brackets.  I also mounted it temporarily to the three way junction unit.
 

The brass nails are 0.6 mm in diameter.  I made the brackets from 0.1 brass shim but that's too flimsy and difficult to file to size.  I'll do the same as with the 6 mm pulleys and solder two of the 0.1 shims together for one bracket to make it stiffer, that way it's easier to file without it twisting out of shape.  
 
Cheers,
 
 

The finished sail was provided with the necessary lines and furled to the yard. The buntline blocks were installed as descript in Lees. After putting up the yard with parrel ropes, ties and lifts the cluelines and sheets were installed.
 
For the lifts I choose (together with my bosun) a rather unconventional instalment. During the period of Pegasus’ build and live usually the topgallant sheets were used also as topsail lifts. In earlier or later times the lifts ran from the masthead; the same arrangement that is shown in the kits plans. The yard by yard build up seems easier for me, if I use separate lifts and sheets. Therefore, upon a suggestion of my bosun, I decided on a clove hitched span around the cap and seized the topsail lifts to it.
 
Another problem is the belaying of all those lines. The space is rather cramped and I try to find reasonable belaying points using the plans and Lees while not overcrowding the bitts and rails.
 
In the meantime the sail maker has started to work on the main topgallant sail.
 
 

Parrel ropes attached
 

Yard held with ties...
 

...and lifts. You see the span around the cap with the lifts sized to it.
 

Lifts
 

In the beginning there is still some space to belay the lines on the quarterdeck rail
 

Buntlines are in place
 

Captain Jack asks for more order around the bitts...
 

...and the bosun tries to live up to this rather untimely request.

Hello again everyone and after dinner I watched a Greenland fishing trawler catching prawn in the Arctic Ocean south of Greenland, very interesting.  
But I also want to thank all those who visited and clicked the like button.  It does give a warm fuzzy knowing that all y'all like my efforts.
 
Today I spend quite some time shortening the booms and the forward gantry.  I could then start making the 6 mm pulley attaching hardware that are fastened to the top of the boom.  Instead of making them the traditional way I decided to make them in two pieces, each one with a joggle so the pulley can be pinned in between and the other end pinned to the boom bracket.
 
The question was, how to make this joggle small enough for a 2 mm wide pulley and also have enough space for the two plates to slide over the top bracket that sandwiches in between.
I have no box and pan brake nor a regular sheet metal brake, these parts are too small anyhow for that sort of equipment.  So, I took an old duck-bill plier, squared the ends on my bench grinder and used that as my brake.  See pics below for the process.  That was okay for one bend but now I had to make the next bend in reverse order.  So, I reversed the plier and fitted a 0.8 mm wide brass bar between one of the plier ends and the sheet metal.  I used the bar as the blade of a brake and bend that part down to 90 degree.  
There is of course a lot more to it with some additional handling between these bends, like tapping the bends with a small hammer to make the corners of the bends as sharp as possible.
 
Then it was just a matter of filing these peaces into what the drawing tells me they should look like.  
 
I had an additional problem in that 0.4 and even 0.3 mm brass sheet was too heavy for these tight 1 mm joggles.  So, I made the pieces from 0.1 mm sheet by 5 mm wide and soldered then together making one piece.  This also stiffened them due to the solder.
 
Okay, it would be better to show this process with pictures.
 

This shows only one half of the assembly and magnified too.  I used a tiny brass nail for the pin and the pulley is still that wooden 6 mm one I now use as a guide.  The holes are 0.5 mm.
 

This is another shot.
 

Here I have laid it next to the image on the drawing.  They can still be filed down some more and prettied up before primer and painting.
 
Here is the sequence of my method.
 

I started out with a strip of 0.1 mm by 5 mm wide brass sheet.  I drew a rough outline of the shape of the part.  The two straight lines indicate where to about put the ends of the plier.
 

Here is my pair of pliers with the ends nicely ground flat and true.
 

I placed the plier ends and the furthest away line for the first bend.
 

Here I made the bend a little beyond 90 degrees.   Now, what's not shown is that I tapped the bend with a small hammer against the plier to make the radius as square as possible.
 

Next I reversed the part to be bend and placed the plier close to the second line.  The final position here is determined by holding a 0.8 mm by 4 mm brass bar between one leg of the plier and the upstanding sheet.  see next pic.
 

Sorry, I moved the camera, it's difficult to hold the plier with one hand and shoot extreme close-up with the other hand.  In any case, you can see that I have placed that 0.8 by 4 mm brass bar between the plier and the sheet.  Now it's just a matter to use that brass bar as a part of a bending brake and holding everything as tight as possible twist the bras bar down against the bottom leg of the plier.  It should come out with a nice enough bend.  I put my small flat file against this joggle and tap it with a small hammer to flatten the joggle.
 

Here is final joggle, it looks quite nice and measures 1 mm, just enough for a 2 mm wide pulley with the second part on the other end of the pulley.  Now, remember that I had to make two of these to make one of the two pieces that holds the pulley, thus a total of 4 of these buggers for one pulley.  These two parts will be soldered together to make the one piece.
 

Here are the two pieces soldered together and ready to be shaped into that part as shown in the top pics.
 
Simple but very time consuming.
 
Cheers,
 
 

First of all I want to thank everyone for your "like" votes.
 
Hello Andy, good to see you and yes, that was indeed the Type 21 boats.  The German engineering were way ahead of any other country.  Not only in subs and surface ships but in aircraft, armor and rockets.  Brilliant minds.  I think that some time ago I did mention the Type 21 subs from the Kriegsmarine.  Thanks for the input, great stuff.
 
Well, today I continued with the small stuff for the gantries.  It was not easy and then to think that I have to yet make another set for the front 
As mentioned above, I had to remake a few pieces because they either didn't turn out to my liking or I cut too much away or some other goofy reason.  In any case, the rear gantry assembly is now mostly done except for the "come-along" and the pulleys with their brackets. 
 
I also forgot that my drawing was a little larger then my scale so I had to cut the gantry posts down a few mm's and I'll also need to shorten the boom some.  Oh well, that's what happens when you are not paying attention, being a "domkop" as the Dutch would say   
 
I made a bunch of pictures for my own records and share a few with yuns here.  Unfortunately some are a little out of focus or I moved the camera but you get the idea.
 

This shows the gantry boom attach bracket being made ready to solder.  I cut a small strip of brass shim to add some material to the bottom so I can solder the pivot pin securely.  The pin protrudes a few mm into the wood of the jig / holding fixture and this way the solder could creep under the small plate and into the other side of the bracket.  I actually had to ad some more solder to the inside of the bracket though and machined the excess of the pin away with a narrow Dremel cut-off wheel.  After everything was securely soldered I trimmed the whole thing to make it look goed.
 

This shows the completed boom attach bracket.  Yup, it's small.
 

Here I have temporarily attached the boom to the bracket and then stuck the assembly to the post bracket. Later on I also removed some of the excess epoxy cement because it interfered with the rotation of the brackets.
 

Here I started with making the pulley bracket.  This is one of the parts I had to remake because as you can see it is wider then the 2 mm for the pulley.  However, it's the idea behind it in how I bend the pieces of brass shim into a U form.  After this fiasco I shaped this piece of wood to 2 mm wide and bend a new piece of brass shim.  This piece of wood also functioned as a jig and holding fixture to make the pulley bracket like I did for the boom attach bracket, except of course for the pivot pin.  That was still going to be a real worry in how to solder the two together with the post bracket between them without desoldering the whole mess but It worked out okay.
I had to assemble everything on the gantry and clamped a small steel office clip to the boom bracket as a heat sink and a wooden clothe pin under it to keep the boom bracket tight against the post bracket.  Then, with the gantry upside down and in a small vice I soldered the pulley bracket to the pin while gently pushing it against the post bracket with a toothpick and guiding it in line with the boom bracket.  It worked without a hitch, which made me smile and gave myself a high-five   
 

Here I am holding the pulley bracket with the dummy wooden pulley in it, looks rather neat.  That's a 6 mm pulley.
 

Here I have both brackets successfully installed to the post bracket and just for fun I have installed the boom and the pulley.  Yes, that whole assembly does pivot too, wonders are not out of this world yet   
 

Here is another out of focus close up looking diagonally aft.  The cable for this pulley is the actual lift cable for the torpedoes and runs down below deck to an electric winch.  I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see if I can thread a "cable" to the loading tube access hatches.  That way I can demonstrate the operation with a model torpedo.  
 
Cheers,

Good morning everyone
 
and that concludes this thread, i think i have posted something everyday, at present i have nothing to replace it with, thank-you for the support you have given it

Further work!
 
I got a calm sunny day - so got the chance to take her out and sand the upper hull - that job is 90% complete.  I can still see a couple of places that need smoothing down a little more.
 
I've been working on the interior (most of this is not glued or varnished - just placed for assessment).
  Shot racks mostly done.  I ran out of 6lb shot, so need to get some more
  Jeer bits are well under way - the decorative bar at the top cost blood to make.
 



 
after redoing the gunport height it's nice to see the trial gun sitting nicely in the port.
 

 
Which gives us my latest full hull picture!
 

 
Colin