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Canute

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Fellas, I can validate some of the conjecture. As a lad, my maternal grandfather (Italian immigrant) had two wood wine barrels out in his "shanty", a garage extension. He made some strong red wine, in the 50s and earlier. The barrel bungs were cork, one on the side and one on the end. I do remember the side bung having some material around it, making it easier to pop out to pour the wine through the spigot/tap on the end. Every year the family pitched in to harvest the grapes and fill one barrel with new wine. My dad and uncles took the squeezings and poured it thru a funnel into the barrel, skins, pits and twigs included. The family drank the wine in the other for a good portion of the year. The wine got strained thru cheesecloth when it was poured into a serving jug.The wine was a dinner time staple. Even us kids got a little, well diluted with soda. I believe the barrels held 25 gallons or so.
  2. Hi Chief, thanks for sharing the background info. I have a number of buddies who served in the Silent Service. I've been in a few boats and admire all of your dedication. I too will be following your build. I'll be interested in how you hide the wood grain. I've used sanding sealers to some effect, but am not happy with my results.
  3. Somewhere down this road, you may want to get an ultrasonic cleaner. They can be had inexpensively and they have a dual use. One is cleaning your airbrush hardware (caked on paint, usually). The other is the Admiral's "bling". Cleans the stuff nicely. Just use the correct solvents for the jewelry. For the airbrush parts, I use Windex (ammonia version). My old Badger 350 had gunk caked in the nozzle but a few runs in the cleaner took them off the nozzle. There are other solvents used for ultrasonic, but I've only used Windex.
  4. Tuff, I agree with the Cap'n. Riveting appears large. You might want to check out Dubz' Syren build, starting on page 9. He makes up a punch to emboss rivets.
  5. The boatyard is alive and well. I got in a stock of .020" or 1/64" strips the other day. Conditioned and stained the strips and transom. They're drying over night now. I will be covering the laser branded Transom on Sunday. And attaching said transom to the mold. Man, it has been way too long. The planking I stained last week dried OK. I've been reading the kit instructions and on line tutorials for planking. And the 5 or 6 build logs, too. So much information, so few remaining functioning brain cells.
  6. Well, where are the bungs & plugs, Mr Squirrel-meister? Inquiring minds want to know. This is quite the tour de force, Matt. Well done.
  7. I've used one for a while and like it. I also use a lighted magnifier attached to my work bench. I'd say the best thing to do is increase the lighting you work under. Old eyes don't adapt as well as younger eyes. Those reading glasses you can buy in pharmacies work, too. Just try before you buy. Do cricket balls have seams on them, like baseballs do? Different rotations make 'em do different motions (curve, slider, knuckler).
  8. I've used their red on plastic and resin kits, no problem with adhering. Good brick color and OK for some lower hulls of ships (IJN, AFAIR). And it's a thin coat. Of course, I only spray this stuff outside and mask/glove up.
  9. In the USA, check out JoAnn's Fabrics, too. They seem everywhere.
  10. Good idea to include the masts. And I like the colors, even in the indoor light.
  11. Nice joinery, Jack. I'm following along and taking copious notes. Thanks for sharing.
  12. Grant, glad you feel up to the work, but be careful around power tools. One of my buds has had back issues for years and the drug he's on now makes him kind of loopy for a while after taking them. He can't drive for a while. He's an outstanding craftsman and his work on his model railroad has dropped off due to the pain meds. Really glad Mobbsie and you have worked up some fixes. Looking forward to seeing them.
  13. Testor's Model Master paints carry Engine Black and Grimy Black, in enamel and acrylic. Vallejo acrylic shows theirs as 70.924 #94 Russian Uniform WW2. Good to see the Badger equivalent colors. Thanks, Kurt.
  14. Are those iron parts painted? That's a nice faded/bleached out black.
  15. Marc, there are some card models of blockade runners. Check out: ecardmodels.com. There is a web site for Ironclads and Blockade Runners at: http://users.wowway.com/~jenkins/ironclads/ironclad.htm Maryland Silver Company has some plans, although not much for runners: http://www.marylandsilver.com/Ship.htm
  16. Dee Dee, just started reading your log. Well done! Several techniques of yours will find their way into my "bag o' tricks". I'll continue to follow your build, too. p.s. Your avatar looks like one of my resident mouse-banes, name of Socks.
  17. Augie, well done. And I like the shrink wrap for strapping. May try it on some barrels.
  18. I read on Augie's current thread where he used shrink wrap on his elm pumps as the iron strapping. Looks good.
  19. Matt, thanks. I dithered over doing just that, worrying over the plank lengths. My muddled noggin over the holidays didn't help. Cathead, thank you; that's my plan right now. I'm in the midst of staining the planks right now. I have some 1/32" stock to do the job. And I'm waxing down my mold boards for the cherry frames. Yeehah!
  20. Tuff, love the barrels. Well done! A question: would real thin plastic strip work for hoops?
  21. Cap'n Steve, we may have to report you to the Admiralty for coffee abuse (almost as big a sin in these parts as alcohol abuse). Leaving it under yer bed?? 3 weeks, eh? I hope you used instant, since it's not considered real coffee anyway. Seriously, I've got coffee and I don't know how many teas the Admiral has stashed in the Purser's Store Room. Some might work better than others. I'm guessing the black teas and pekoes should work better than the herbal stuff. It's that engineer in me coming out again. Third Engine Wiper
  22. Been busy working on non-ship stuff. I'm the membership guy for an organization I'm in and January is very hectic doing renewals and compiling a couple of reports. It's my first time doing this, so I'm proceeding with all due diligence. I'm itching to get back to more fun (?) stuff. I'm sanding down the transom to remove the laser label and make it look like it's built up with separate boards.
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