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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Rob, the file appears to be rounding your inside corners. Use your chisel and or #11 blade to carefully "sweeten up" those corners. Nice work on the frames.
  2. Greetings all, My first foray into building a wooden vessel is this gem. I've been lurking a little while, as I've been evaluating my tool chest and selecting this build. Over the years, I've done any number of wooden structures and car kits, as a model railroader. Thought I should learn how to twist straight boards into boats aka planking. In my prior endeavors, we sealed and stained before we put any glue on any surfaces. Plus we had to fight warping wood ( due to using water based paints) with extra bracing. Should I treat the wood before any construction? Since this is primarily a basswood boat, should I apply some MinWax preconditioner? How about the cherry frames? Since I'll have to soak these to bend them, I suspect they get taken care of after the boat come off the mold. A few of the obligatory pix are attached: Kit box Some of the wood
  3. Jonny, Looks good to me. White is always a tough color to get good coverage. And in acrylics, even tougher. Maybe you should tell folks you're going for a "weathered" look. I'd like to do a bomb vessel at some point, so your log is much appreciated. Thanks for sharing.
  4. Gee whiz, Cap'n. That's only half my top speed. On a good day. Get better soon, but be safe.
  5. 'Tis no fun, to doeth deeds wrong handed. Didst breaketh me wrist whilest in a blizzard. Och, the paine didst feel. Spendeth weeks to the number of seven wearing a fixing device. Dost feel thy paine, Cap'n.
  6. Rob, Patience, grasshopper! I think I'd do one frame to check if my cutting & fitting techniques were good. This isn't a race; precision does count. Relax and enjoy the build.
  7. Inverting the bottles works, too. Some old square Floquil bottles, too. But, I will stir the heck out of the paint and maybe even strain it before using it.
  8. The sealer material in model airplane "dope" is talcum powder. Scalecoat, a model railroad solvent based paint, also makes a sanding sealer. Takes many coats and buffing out with superfine steel wool to turn wood parts into steel siding on a boxcar. But for wood parts looking like wood, it works well. And some craft store chains, like Micheal's in the States, also carry sealer in aerosol cans.
  9. Jonny, Yellow is a bit translucent, so an undercoat of white or pale gray would be in order. If you're doing much more yellow on the boat, carefully mask it. And paint the edges of the tape with the base color to keep the paint from bleeding under it.
  10. Aye, Cap'n. Ye've finally let the hands partake of these spirits. No matter they be Black Strap, dago red or goodly rum. We be missing a good wet! Let's hear it for the Cap'n, lads!
  11. Julian, try Micro-Scale's Liquid Decal film. Brush a little on a corner of the old decal to see how it covers. And you may be able to take some of the yellowing out by putting it in some bright sunlight.
  12. Jonny, you'll have to learn the art of compromise; an art not seen much these days. Maybe you can rig up a storable building surface for your ships and another for her cards. I'm fortunate my Admiral/spouse of 31+ years participates in some of my hobbies (although not this one) and encourages me. Yep, she's a keeper.
  13. Cardely, that would be a pretty good assumption. Unless the artist spent a lot of time at sea, observing the action first hand, he'd be working on estimates. Back in the day, I suspect they only drew details of what they saw from the beach. Navies back then weren't too concerned about the small details of their ships involved in action. Some of the current maritime and aviation artists can take months to do "prototypically correct" paintings. My flying squadron wanted a profile painting as a nice piece of memorabilia. We had to take a large number of photographs of the aircraft and shipped the package off to the artist. About 3 months later, we got a draft copy. After correcting that we waited another few months and got a very nice rendering of our Phantom.
  14. Ah, another Microsoft "feature". I'd try FireFox; used it for several years now.
  15. Hello. May I grab a seat here to follow along. Looks like a good primer for rigging. Best of luck.
  16. Mark, let me "throw my nickel in the grass" (old fighter pilot expression) and add my appreciation for the work you are doing. I want to some day get to that level and I want to see excellent examples for my journey. And the other stuff; that's not so much. Your work is something I will follow closely, as the best of examples. Just as a padawan follows a master to become a Jedi. Thank you for showing us how to do it.
  17. North West Short Line or NWSL makes a lot of model railroading goodies along with these tools. I've used a few of them - gears, diesel wheels, electric motors. The various cutters work for a time, but eventually the groove where the razor blade contacts the Masonite or cutting mat gets to a point where the cuts wander. I have seen folks put two small pieces of tool steel either side of the spot where the 90 degree cut fall on the Masonite versions parallel to the blade. This leaves a thin slot for the blade to cut through and supports both sides of the cut stock. You can turn the self healing mats and do the same thing. Use fresh blades, dull ones just bend the thinner stock. And it's more pronounced in thicker stock. I'd get a small miter (or mitre) box for that.
  18. Great, another interesting build! Grabbing an adult beverage and requesting permission to join?
  19. Hey Mobbsie, I'd like to grab a seat and follow along with the gaggle. I'm jumping into an Echo cross section build soon and need all the examples of any scratchbuilds. Best of luck.
  20. If you want to try a card model, in 1/250 scale, go to Papermodelers.com. They have a number of American Civil War models. Or if you want a pewter one in 1:600 scale, check out Thoroughbred Models.
  21. Wahoo, that is some of the finest weathering and "aged" wood I've had the pleasure to see. This one is bookmarked for additional study. Slainte!
  22. If I may summarize: clean parts with extra fine steel wool (or Scotch-brite scrubbie), a half hour bath in vinegar, rinse off in acetone, dunk in blackener/browning solution for ? minutes and neutralize in baking soda for X minutes. Are these the concensus, esteemed crew? I'm drafting a buy and want to ensure I get all the goodies. Western NC is pretty thin for any kind of hobby shopping. Thanks in advance for your help. Ken
  23. My mates from OZ, will do. Hope I do it justice! Ron, thanks for that tidbit. Ken
  24. I'm considering several PoF ship's boats for my first build; both happen to be HMS Bounty boats. The kits are the MS Bounty Launch or the AL Bounty Jolly boat. I picked these two based on scale - 1:16 or 1:25. The MS one is rated as Intermediate, the AL is beginner. I'm leaning toward the MS kit, if only based on the excellent instructions. I intend to run a build log and continue studying all the materials we have available on this board, especially the existing build logs. I am continually amazed at the information and willingness to share with this board. Your assitance is respectfully requested. Ken
  25. Drug store (in the USA) reading glasses may be an inexpensive route. Purchase several different pairs, so you can swap out. Me? I use an Optivisor and or a magnifier/light, as required. Gluing teeny parts onto bigger parts calls for an "I'll try most anything, once" approach. Ken
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