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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Cap'n, like the thole pins; they look good. I hope you break that lathe out soon. I got a little dough to spend and I think a lathe might be the thing. Need some hands-on, first person experience with this Proxxon jewel.
  2. Ah, the joys of domesticity! This from the guy about to take his Admiral out for her birthday dinner.
  3. Tuff, like the carriage color. Looks very good. And the remodeled carriages themselves are excellent.
  4. Ditto for me. Can't have too much light or magnification, even for young eyes.
  5. I'll second Jason's recommendation for the Hypo glue. It's watch crystal cement. I've attached clear styrene window glazing to wood and plastic without any crazing. Beats the CA, which causes the clear styrene to fog up from the fumes.
  6. Mobbsie, the poly really makes it pop. Looking good. Thanks for sharing.
  7. Jon, careful with your repaired back, mate. A technique I read about, but haven't tried yet, is to draw up the ratline diagram on some white paper/card stock and place it under the shrouds. Tie the lines with your preferred knots. I favor white glue, since it dries clear. The CA may discolor with aging.
  8. I'm very interested in how you will make this treenailing process happen. I'm still a noobie in this field.
  9. Matt, the Alert and Granado AOTS books have 1/24 scale drawings of 4 & 6 pounders. Might they be of some help?
  10. Cap'n, glad you're back. Follow the doctor's orders for healing up. Nice work on the rudder gudgeons and pintles.
  11. Bill, they do insert a block under the aft end of the barrel to adjust elevation. That's called the quoin, the triangular block or, as Tuff calls it, the cake shaped block above the rear wheel. Two gun crewmen, one per side, used crowbars to allow changing the gun's elevation. The quoin is slid forward to lower the gun's mouth and slid back to raise it.
  12. Hang in there. Time plan and plot your other work on the bomb.
  13. Matt, have you looked at the AOTS Alert book. It's a somewhat older ship, but a nice looking cutter. Lots of detail for you.
  14. I had forgotten many old kits had raised detail, so yes, no washes. Although, you may want to sand around the deck furniture to remove the raised grain effects on the deck "wood". It would go a ways towards making the plastic deck look like wood. I looked at the kit instructions for a railroad flat car I did a while back. Plastic was gray to start. Washed it in "Dawn" to remove mold release agents; paint sticks better to clean plastic. I painted the plastic an enamel earthy/woody color - light tan. Let dry a day or so. No paint odor. Sanded the boards to remove maybe 25% of the tan paint. Dry brush - streak the boards - with a darker brown enamel. Let dry (no odor), maybe 30 minutes. Lightly sand again. Could add a black acrylic wash to bring out the caulking. Lightly steel wool the deck with 4 ought wool to even out color.
  15. It makes sense to do so with these cutters. Shallow draft, packs a punch. It will be interesting to see how the bulwarks get reinforced. And increasing armament to 12 3 pounders. Bravo Zulu, little squirrels!
  16. Tom, looking good. On your deck, is it black plastic or some other color? I've used a medium to dark grey for the base coat on the plastic. Flat black may be too stark. Light sanding to expose the grain will work well. Some have used an india ink in isopropal alcohol wash to highlight, too.
  17. Spales, eh. Great idea; I'll have to make a few. Can't have too many clamps.
  18. Long as that idea wasn't copyrighted, use it. The first rule of war is "If in doubt, cheat!"
  19. Folks, thanks for all the capsule bios. Screen handles now make more sense.
  20. Well, a minor doubling back on myself. I've been busy digging out of the snow we had here in WNC, so I hadn't looked at the launch since Sunday. I was contemplating the port sheer plank and noticed it looked like a hockey stick on the hood end. How'd that happen, I opined. I looked at my first 3 molds and realized I hadn't faired them after adding the cherry frames to molds 4 thru 15. If you look at the first and third photos in #50, you can see, in HD, that they aren't faired in yet. Frame 1 left a crimp in the sheer plank worthy of one of those hand planking benders. So, this afternoon, I "handled" that little issue. All nicely faired in. The port garboard turned out much better; fits into the rabbet better than what the photos show. So, I'm hoping to get the planking started this weekend.
  21. Augie, awesome milling and joinery. Up to your usual high standards, sir.
  22. STSCM, good luck with the build. It's a Chuck Passaro kit, so parts and instructions should be excellent. And MSW is a great resource, too. As you've already seen.
  23. Nihil illigitimus carborundum! Don't let the bas**rds grind you down. (With apologies to Virgil and all those other old Romans )
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