Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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Tuff, love the barrels. Well done! A question: would real thin plastic strip work for hoops? -
Cap'n Steve, we may have to report you to the Admiralty for coffee abuse (almost as big a sin in these parts as alcohol abuse). Leaving it under yer bed?? 3 weeks, eh? I hope you used instant, since it's not considered real coffee anyway. Seriously, I've got coffee and I don't know how many teas the Admiral has stashed in the Purser's Store Room. Some might work better than others. I'm guessing the black teas and pekoes should work better than the herbal stuff. It's that engineer in me coming out again. Third Engine Wiper
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Been busy working on non-ship stuff. I'm the membership guy for an organization I'm in and January is very hectic doing renewals and compiling a couple of reports. It's my first time doing this, so I'm proceeding with all due diligence. I'm itching to get back to more fun (?) stuff. I'm sanding down the transom to remove the laser label and make it look like it's built up with separate boards.
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Matt, nice sewing. I may have to get the Admiral's old Singer tuned up to do these.
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Brian, excellent work! You might look for "yello-glo" leds. Model RR folks use them for old kerosene burning headlights. Not sure if they come in that size, yet.
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Mobbsie, you adapted and overcame the "issues". Well done. Oopsies are a learning situation. I like your rubber band trick to hold the frames.
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beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.
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Do you plan to paint the outer hull or leave it stained? The planking looks great.
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All I can say is WOW. I love your workmanship. It is inspiring to this neophyte.
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- confederacy
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Rob, Nice crisp shots. And I second using a tripod.
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Like Eamon said, too. Follow the doctor's orders and don't shirk the PT, once you can do some.
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Gene, Looking good. Keep up the good work. Slow & steady works better than fast.
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You might want to try putting some fine sandpaper under your metal templates to eliminate slipping. I did it to a steel ruler that I use for both marking and cutting out pieces. Might also consider cutting out those little triangular glue tabs and curved parts with a small chisel blade. Might be easier than pressing down a #11 with your index finger.
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Jonny, you might also try Mozilla Firefox. I've used it for years and haven't had any bad incidents. IE is too easy to hack, apparently.
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Sort of been on hiatus, due to a nasty head cold. Mostly scheming and dreaming. I do have some thin basswood on order, so I can jump onto the transom fix. I did get a belated, surprise Christmas present of a Mamoli Constitution cross section. More fun!
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Clare, I was looking at #6 or so bird shot (shotgun shell ammo), since I have some dark gray stuff. Unfortunately, it's about 3 mm diameter - way too big. Might work in 1/4" scale. The deck and rails look good. Are you using Shipyard paint?
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Ouch! Looks like my black case one; which is quite ancient. Another good reason to upgrade the old piece, since it won't fit or work with any of the newer accessories. I got one of these kits as a surprise Christmas present, so I'm closely following. Can't do much else with a rotten head cold. Making dust in my wee "shop" aggravates it.
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The Bondo Spot Putty works well. Doesn't shrink or crack, sands smooth. And you get a lot more for your money. Sticks to polystyrene, PVC pipe, ABS.
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Cathead, good thought. I ended up using some sanding sticks I got from MicroMark some time back. These skinny sticks only have grit on 2 opposite sides; theother sides are clean. I got right up to the sheer tab and faired the forms that way. I did see the beginnings of a notch in places, but it's not the most critical surface. Still playing with fixing the transom board.
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Ski, put some masking tape around those ports to protect the details. The old kits, with raised details, are a pita to work with, but I saved some plastic car kit details with this little trick. And you might try some Bondo glazing and spot putty. Got a 4.5 oz tube for $5-6. Sands OK, doesn't crack. Has some odor, so be careful.
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