lionfish

I once cut the back of my left hand nearly severing the tendon in my left forefinger whilst carving a point on a piece of dowel. A friend was using a craft knife when it fell off the work bench, he went to grab it & pushed it deeply into his thigh, just missing a "vital organ"! Moral always cut away from yourself if possible!

i would add dont ever try to grab any sharp object thats falling, its a recipe for an ER visit.

i usually dont wear PPE, gloves that can protect against cuts and punctures are very bulky, and can lead to a decresed sense of where your hands, fingers, or the tool is. ive poked and cut myself many times, just part of the learning curve. that being said you can wear as much or as little as you feel necessary.  

are your masts perpendicular to the water line or the deck?

my dowel pins and drill bits have arrived, so the next step is to secure the deck to the hull, luckily my step father has a drill press,  

Lionfish, here's your answer from the description in the "Modelling Tools and Workshop Equipment"  forum :

 

 

  Danny

thanks, some forums i know have an area specifically for reviews and have a forum to keep everything uniform and understandable.

tweezers. I hate them. they either fire the part I want half way into oblivion or dont grip/pick up where I want them to. I got passed a loom a line and yes they are useless...the pins need threading and the lower plate should be steel, then it might work... any tension and the pins just pop out.

 

As an engineer I sometimes have to deal with kilograms per square inch.... don't ask.

ive had that happen before, but ive found that soft tweezers, i.e, ones that dont take a lot of force to close, work a bit better. plus i tune my tweezers to grip at the tip, i just bend them. just my 2cents.

tools that are a waste or useless are any you dont use. i will say power tools bought from home depot are a waste, they basically tell companies how much they are going to pay for tools, as part of the deal they get so many free tools, and they tell the company to put through QC and pass any failed tool. i work for an industrial supplier and one of my customers was looking at a cordless drill, got a quote from me and one from home cheapo. they are charging less than what it takes my company to buy direct from the manufacturer. my customer was making a big about it so i made him a deal, he will buy the home cheapo tool, ill get direct from manufacturer. we will take both tools apart and look at the construction, if my tool isnt made better then i will pay to have both tools fixed, and give him mine for free. needless to say, when we took the tools apart he was shocked to see the difference, a lot more plastic is used in their tools, in mine was a lot of metal and well made parts. so he gets all of his brand name tools from us now. dont get me wrong buying a tool for cheap because you arent going to use it a lot or do anything demanding is fine. another customer bought identical tools one from me and the other from HD, after two years my tool is still going strong and the HD tool died after a year. granted both of these customers work in construction, but i think its the principal that sucks. companies making things cheaper and cheaper to stretch profit margins. anyway rant over, do we have an area just for tool and equipment reviews? or is it just the tools section?

Well I had to figure out how to get useable lumber out of those boxes of odd shaped cutoffs, I've not done that much woodworking since the 80's having worked mostly in metal the last 25 years so im rusty and have forgotten a lot of tricks.I found this one on youtube and it works great.Had to make an indicator holder for my little saw I bought way back then, a maple carrier board and a zero clearance throat plate, buy some tape and off to the races. This tape is only 10 bucks for 42"s and it STICKS, I use L thinner to clean up.

So you start by getting a flat edge on your work piece, sanded,jointed or sawn, attach it to the board and zero your indicator and make a first pass, there after just add the saw kerf and desired thickness.....I've been able to cut as thin as 10 thou using this. It will work until I have my little bandsaw back online and tuned up but I think this might work better anyway....and I still have all my digits

thats a really cool idea, my step father has a table saw and a bunch of raw apple wood, gives me some ideas

get well soon chuck, i check my notifications everyday with anticipation. 

Gorilla Glue foams up and expands to much.  It is messy to work with on the parts we are gluing up.  Titebond and Elmers are better suited as they are easy to clean and I think a better joint.

David B

even the wood they make foams up? i know the normal stuff does, but if their wood glue isnt good ill just go grab something else

Hi Lionfish liking your start on the ship and wanted to add that I remember having read somewhere years ago that they found the remnants of copper bottom plates when diving on the Bounty's wreck so I think that would be a correct choice. I've just finished a carved stern assembly for the ship for a scratch build im starting  but its in 1-64 scale, I plan on making them in 1-48 also but I don't think it would translate down to 1-110 to well , the window frames at 1-64 are only about 0.015" thick. I have some pics of it in the scratch build forum if your curious.I've accumulated a lot of photos etc. of the current Bounty's if you cant find something let me know,Kev

thanks for stopping by, yea 1-110 scale can be hard, a lot of this ship is out of scale or looks odd, but ive decided to do it out of the box for the most part just to practice on. im vary interested in your build as well. 

I would advise you not to use Gorilla Glue and go with a PVA glue.  Titebond or Elmers.  The stuff may be useful for furniture but not for models.

David B

is there a specific reason for this?

im still waiting for some dowel pins to come in so i can glue the deck down, so my building has stopped for the most part. im also wondering if i should wax the threads for my rigging or not.

so ive been doing a lot of research on ropewalks and such. i even brain stormed my own design but then i watched some videos on domanoff rope walks and holy crap do i really like those machines. guess one might be in my budget in the near future. just wish it was in a kit form so i could have the pleasure of building it.

great, ill have to add this to my list, your building is very clean on this. do you plan on doing any upgrading for the kit fittings you mentioned?

looks great, how would you rate this kit so far?

had to take a pause in building, but im always looking for improvements for my model. so soon i will be ordering a few things for her, such as belay pins, new anchors, cannons and the like. i also went to home cheapo the other day and picked my first set of clamps; 10 spring and 2 small trigger clamps. plus some gorilla wood glue. my issue right now is how to attach the false deck to the hull. i came up with two ideas. the first me use some sewing needles pushed through the deck into the hull at the mast points, then glue and clamp. or i can drill out the holes for the masts in the hull and the deck, then use dowel pics to align the two parts, glue and then clamp. ive also been doing a lot of reading on rigging and such to get ahead of myself. so im probably going to build it as is in the rigging to get my feet wet, any suggestions or tips for rigging are always welcome. all i need now is a few hours to sit down, play a movie, and build my model. after my model is done im going to have a fun time building a display case for it. i really gotta remember to take some more pics along the way.

Gunther you seem to be a Master Jedi Wizard when it comes to this stuff lol. I shouldn't need anymore thin CA glue for awhile but now I know another location to look for a deal. 

i keep thin, standard and gel type super glues around, i use standard and gel for my reef keeping and such. i love the gel, it doesnt move around and smear as easy. i stopped at home cheapo yesterday and picked up some clamps and wood glue, i hope to get the false deck glued but i am hesitant because of alignment 

i know you can get super glue in different viscosity, i feel like ive see that exact bottle under a different name though, hhmm, oh well glad its working for you 

looks awesome, gives me hope for when i get to build this beauty of a ship

looking good, but like like gunther said, double check the rear most bulkhead, looks like it might need some more work. how did you do your bending?

my fathers calipers work wonders for taking measurements and transferring them.

Hello again!

Easy nights work today. I added a small shim to one of the bulkheads that were a little shallow in comparison to its neighbors. This is of course over a few glasses of fermented grapes and then I got to thinking.

 

I'm thinking about replacing the problematic pieces of plywood with some stock wood I have laying around from the hobby shop. This would get around the splitting problem and I can use the existing piece as a rough template. The reason why I say rough template is because the rail height is way off in comparison to the multiple decks I have. I'm thinking I can measure the right height from the plans and transfer this to the stock wood.

just dont down too many glasses of said grapes, knives are sharp wouldnt want an MUI. but id say just get rid of the ply wood, i read its only good for the bulkheads and such, plus now you dont have to finish the edges of the plywood.

ive been using airbrushes for years, and ive honestly never had an issue with "pulsating". i can imagine that if your shading or doing some really delicate work it would be a factor, but in the years ive been build plastic scale models ive never had an issue. here is the kit i recived as a gift:  http://www.tcpglobal.com/ECOKIT-17.html#.Vii1udKrReh

the airbrush is OK, not like a badger or iwata, but the compressor is great. i recommend it.

Well after my mini stoke and or temper tantrum I think this is fixable. It's just gonna take some more time and effort. There's no time line on a model well at least not this one.

 

The bend held up pretty good after being clamped but all 3 layers of the plywood split apart. I plan on gluing them back together using some diluted PVA so it doesn't bubble up and hopefully dries flat. This part calls for trim planks on both the inboard and outboard sides so any blemishes will be covered up.

 

So this weeks plan / goal is to bend the other side and prepare for the worse. I need to go back and fair the bulkheads some more. Then maybe after this get to preparing the false decks. This means evening the tops and fixing the curve in the decks (can't remember what that is called. Counter maybe?)

i was doing some reading about bending planks. one site says not to use heat or liquid on plywood as it will split and splinter. they say to score the back side to achieve the curve. worth a try to avoid the trouble you had before.

Hi

I looked up the pic of The Bounty anchor and it looks like a typical admiralty design from that period, it is missing the wooden stock that it would have had. With the stock It would have looked very similar to this one from the HMS Sirius from the same era

Cheers

Steve

thats what i figured, the online stores that have anchors say its a Spanish design, though who says they are accurate with that. thanks, i know which anchor to get now