lionfish

Lionfish,

 

Thanks for the reply checked the website and reviews they look good for the money, especially the combo kit you suggested reasonably priced. Your take on the Balsa very interesting.

 

Thanks again

hi john, the combo kit and pasted balsa are both used to hone and maintain straight razors, so the tools are very capable of creating very good edges. the pasted balsa with micron grits might be a little far but experimentation would prove usefull

Searched the tool site could not find an answer to my dilemma. In the past I have purchased tools based on reviews most of the time they are ambiguous. Want to purchase sharpening stones they cover the gamut from oil to water to diamond stones expensive to cheap The problem is I do not want to spend hundreds of dollars when I know there  are reasonably priced stones that do the same job for a lot less money.

 

I want stones that will sharpen micro chisels and gouges, to exacto knives and chisels up to 3/4 inch. I am aware of the stropping and sandpaper. I have an Arkansas stone but am not pleased with that as an all around stone.

 

I have bought tools that were pricey and found them not as good as a low or mid-line tool.

 

I have bought cheap based on reviews in the past and they are now in some landfill.

 

Want good based on your reviews, and experience, is two stones with fine and medium grit do the same job as 3 or 4 stones with different grits.

 

Awaiting your responses hope I have not confused everyone because I am totally befuddled after writing this.

depends on the steel, arkies are great, but you need the right oil to do the job, or the clog and dont cut, they are also a bit slower than most other stones. i use a small pocket hard ark to sharpen fish hooks, file my nails, smooth pen nibs, just a whole bunch of odd jobs. if you wanted to go with a whetstone, norton makes a combo kit that has a 220/1k and a 4k/8k, flattenting stone, and prep stone. for about 150. if you really want a keep edge, get some balsa wood, and micron paste, for after using the stones. but the sharper the edge the more delicate it is, so its a balancing act. i lap all my stones using a piece of granite tile and loose SiC powder. hope this helps

despite my inablity to do any modeling right now, chuck your work serves as a source of inspiration for me.  if i can get my HMS bounty built the Cheerful is on my list.

Capt. Jack Aubrey: "Do you see those two weevils doctor?" 

 

Dr. Stephen Maturin: "I do." 

 

Aubrey: "Which would you choose? "

 

Maturin: "Neither; there is not a scrap a difference between them. They are the same species of Curculio." 

 

Aubrey: "If you had to choose. If you were forced to make a choice. If there was no other response... "

 

Maturin: "Well then if you are going to push me, I would choose the right hand weevil; it has significant advantage in both length and breadth." 

 

Aubrey: "There, I have you! You're completely dished! Do you not know that in the service, one must always choose the lesser of two weevils!"

maturin; "he would pun would pick a pocket"

one thing that comes to mind is deck conditions, i would imagine that coiled rope on the deck would roll and move, especially if the ship was in heavy seas. hanging would seam logical for busy ships or rough weather, or anything other than at port or a special occasion. then again, its up to our own interpretation 

Hi mates, Does anyone have a preference for plating keel up or water-line down when using individual pieces of copper. I've coppered a blunt bow ship before but I will be working on a sharp bow and was wondering if the starting point would make any difference.

Thanks

i think most if not all coppering is done keel to water line, at least on the real ships, ive seen many people start with the stern keel and work towards the bow, next line of plates stern keep to bow and so on.

Hi Chuck - 

 

Breeching rope looks good, and the rest of the carronade is up to your usual excellent standards.

 

I don't know if you have seen this, but E.W. Cooke did a drawing of a 12-pounder carronade on an English brig of war in the mid 1800s.  Although I usually trust an artist to reproduce what he sees, the breaching rope here sure looks like there wouldn't be much recoil allowed, unless the excess line is coiled at the bulwark.

 

Following along with interest.

 

Dan

 

Cooke carronade.jpg

i would assume most artists would do exactly that, the recoil rope is almost taught save for the ring that attaches the recoil rope to the bulwark. unless they took all the excess robe and hide it on the other side, plus i would imagine that natural fiber rope has some give. interesting illustration though

"She has a bluff bow, lovely lines. Shes a fine seabird: weatherly, stiff and fast... very fast, if shes well handled. No, shes not old; shes in her prime."

DSC07770.JPG

Well, there she is, in full size and something like a weird memorial of the beautiful sailing frigate she may be, when finally finished.

DSC07486.JPG

First thing that had to be replaced was the carefully "tail docked" bowsprit I used in the earlier stages of the build.

As a working mast it had to be done completely new.

DSC07794.JPG

It may not be the easyest thing to start with, but it´s quite servicable. In the end you have to invent a convincing "look" for the rigg, something like a "used look" in my case.

 

DSC07568-001.JPGDSC07567.JPG

The lower foremast in comparison to the drawing of the massiv 36gun mainmast.

 

In scale 1:48 at least some parts are exposed to permanent stress which could cause significant damage in the long run.

DSC07805.JPG One of this fragil looking elements are the fighting tops. This is the foretop and the smaler mizzentop.

DSC07588.JPGDSC07594.JPG

 

DSC07788.JPG

The "mouse" of the forestay as a workpiece and in action

DSC07791.JPGDSC00962.JPGDSC00966.JPG

im convinced you just invented time travel and a shrink ray, went back in time, shrunk the HMS surprise, and brought it back. then "disassemboled" select parts to put back together to tease us. all kidding aside, seriously amazing work, i wish there was more descriptive words for this but i am at a loss.

Lionfish - I've never seen that at Home Depot. Where would that be located?

its by the faucet and sink repair section, http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-6-in-x-6-in-Rubber-Packing-Sheets-59849/203193498

I use an air brush........wouldn't do without it.   I have a very low cost spray outfit which is sold by Testor's.......does just as good a job,  as a high priced brand.   it's a kit called the  'Amazing Air'  airbrush kit.  it run with a can of compressed air,  but I adapted it to my 25 gal compressor.  I also have a spraycraft gravity feed,  and an Aztek 320,  which I have all the accessories and two of each tips {never used}  to know more about the Testor's airbrush kit:

 

http://www.testors.com/category/136949/Airbrushes

 

I thought I had another link........but I guess I deleted it.  here is an old friend of mine.....he's tried many airbrushes and may give you more info on them.

 

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

dons an old friend of yours? thats awesome, i use his site all the time. my first airbrush was an aztek, it needs some TLC but im sure would still work great.

thank you!

the point is that im leaving in israel and im not like to order expencive thing over the internet

we have a good website that selling airbrush

Which one to take?

 

and he has :

Harder & Steenback

 

H&S Ultra

125503- 80usd

Ultra two in one

125533- 109usd

Evolution CRplus 0.15

126204-156usd

Infinity two in one

126543-287usd

 

which one to take?

 

if your set on that brand, id get the ultra or evolution. they are the base line models and are more than adequate for our job. honestly id go with the ultra, its half the price and will do the same job. you can always upgrade later.

thank you all.

the point with the infinity is that its have a stopper for not to push the batten moreand less

and its will give you the same  mount of color all the way ...

is it necessary? because i dont want to make a damage on painting... 

 

and what make the different between single action to double action  ?

 

regards

Michael.

single action means the button does a single job, meaning the paint flow is set by a screw and the button just runs the air. double action means the button controls paint mixture and air flow. single action is great for beginners, and consistency. double actions are better for experienced people and those who need to change line widths and paint flow on the fly. anyone who uses airbrushes a lot tend to have more than one, i have a single and a double action. the badger 200 old style is a single action, wereas the badger 155 anthem is a double action.

thank you all!!!

 

someone know something about the infinity ?

http://www.amazon.com/Harder-Steenbeck-Infinity-126544-SprayGunner/dp/B010XWRDSQ

save your money on the harder-steenbeck, those are marketed to professionals,  get a paasche or badger, great brushes for a great price. then use the money you save to get a nice compressor. i will direct you to this site: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/   it helped me with the research and knowledge to get a good airbrush. good luck and feel free to ask any questions, ive been building plastic models for nearly 15 years

i dont see why you couldnt use one, and airbrush is just for application of paint and other media. i also build many other models so i already had an airbrush on hand, this is what i use http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/ba155aiandki.html  plus you need a compressor to run it. although as i see many model ships arent painted very much, and often in hard to reach or complex situations that airbrushes arent too good for unless youre using a very fine detail brush with a hand as steady as a brain surgeon. just my 2cents worth, if your unhappy with traditional brushes try using better quality ones or using sponge brushes.

it depends on what kind of mix you have, a mix of pure paint will keep for a while. but its not recommended to return thinned mixtures back into the bottle. you could get some gasket rubber from home depot and a circle cutter to make gaskets for the cap. other than that, reduce the amount of air in the jar and turn them every now and then.

awesome looking guns, i couldnt cast near that quality. the finish on the guns look great, i always had a hard time with finding the right look for weathered guns, i experimented with a mix of ghost grey with aluminum. anyway still a great job

also be aware that brass hardens the more you work it, so it might be necessary to anneal every now and them. http://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-photo-etch-tools

these tools are designed for photoetch, but i dont see why they wouldnt work on similar sized brass parts. 

very nice work, i do have a question, what do your plans say about the mast rake? is it in relation to the waterline or deck?

its been a while since i did much work on her yet, im still trying to come up with the best way to get the correct rake for the masts. my idea is to use a protractor to transfer the angle onto a small block i can use as a tool rest for my bits. one issue i also ran into was the point that the railings meet is off, unless the rails on the side wales arent centered. 

i can almost hear the creak of the wood, and feel the spray of the sea. im going to have to watch master and commander: far side of the world again. amazing job, if you play with the lighting a bit you could pass these off as photos of a real ship.

love it, cant wait to see more

all i can say i had to pick my jaw off the floor, i am always amazed at the talent on this forum. im following, no way am i going to miss this model completed

amazing, really wish i could find the time to do work on my models, you guys keep me awed

What I have done is to take the angle off the plans and make a fixture.  This would help me to make the hole. plus I would increase the diameter of the hole so I could make adjustments.

thats what im thinking, but the plans i have for that measurment are pretty much useless. so im going off a set of admiralty plans, ill be using the deck to mast angle to get it right and reduce error on my part

Hi Lionfish,

 

I just used a small hand drill to start my mast holes and then slowly widened them using progressively larger drills. Final sizing of the holes can be done using fine sandpaper on a tapered rod which is slow, but avoids any rip out. Hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

thats what i planned on, but getting the mast rake is going to be a bit harder