lionfish

maturin; "he would pun would pick a pocket"

rear wale pinned for gluing 

 

 
gunwales glued in place

 

 

 
 
one issue i will have to deal with is the rear wale is a bit too wide, im going to have to slim it down to have the rails fit properly

looking great,

despite my inablity to do any modeling right now, chuck your work serves as a source of inspiration for me.  if i can get my HMS bounty built the Cheerful is on my list.

hi john, the combo kit and pasted balsa are both used to hone and maintain straight razors, so the tools are very capable of creating very good edges. the pasted balsa with micron grits might be a little far but experimentation would prove usefull

hi john, the combo kit and pasted balsa are both used to hone and maintain straight razors, so the tools are very capable of creating very good edges. the pasted balsa with micron grits might be a little far but experimentation would prove usefull

hi john, the combo kit and pasted balsa are both used to hone and maintain straight razors, so the tools are very capable of creating very good edges. the pasted balsa with micron grits might be a little far but experimentation would prove usefull

depends on the steel, arkies are great, but you need the right oil to do the job, or the clog and dont cut, they are also a bit slower than most other stones. i use a small pocket hard ark to sharpen fish hooks, file my nails, smooth pen nibs, just a whole bunch of odd jobs. if you wanted to go with a whetstone, norton makes a combo kit that has a 220/1k and a 4k/8k, flattenting stone, and prep stone. for about 150. if you really want a keep edge, get some balsa wood, and micron paste, for after using the stones. but the sharper the edge the more delicate it is, so its a balancing act. i lap all my stones using a piece of granite tile and loose SiC powder. hope this helps

depends on the steel, arkies are great, but you need the right oil to do the job, or the clog and dont cut, they are also a bit slower than most other stones. i use a small pocket hard ark to sharpen fish hooks, file my nails, smooth pen nibs, just a whole bunch of odd jobs. if you wanted to go with a whetstone, norton makes a combo kit that has a 220/1k and a 4k/8k, flattenting stone, and prep stone. for about 150. if you really want a keep edge, get some balsa wood, and micron paste, for after using the stones. but the sharper the edge the more delicate it is, so its a balancing act. i lap all my stones using a piece of granite tile and loose SiC powder. hope this helps

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs. 

despite my inablity to do any modeling right now, chuck your work serves as a source of inspiration for me.  if i can get my HMS bounty built the Cheerful is on my list.

despite my inablity to do any modeling right now, chuck your work serves as a source of inspiration for me.  if i can get my HMS bounty built the Cheerful is on my list.

despite my inablity to do any modeling right now, chuck your work serves as a source of inspiration for me.  if i can get my HMS bounty built the Cheerful is on my list.

Thank You guys.
 
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube.  In this case 1.5 mm brass tube.  I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image.  Not to hard.  The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear.  They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
 
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model.  Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo.  See how much longer and smaller it is.  Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

also be aware that brass hardens the more you work it, so it might be necessary to anneal every now and them. http://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-photo-etch-tools
these tools are designed for photoetch, but i dont see why they wouldnt work on similar sized brass parts. 

Hi friends.
 
Pictures of the 74 gun-ship by Alexey Konzelko.
 
Karl

also be aware that brass hardens the more you work it, so it might be necessary to anneal every now and them. http://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-photo-etch-tools
these tools are designed for photoetch, but i dont see why they wouldnt work on similar sized brass parts. 

To make the bowsprit....start with a square stick of boxwood 5/16" x 5/16".  The inboard section will remain square.  The outboard side is rounded off and tapered.  There are three square holes on the inboard sides.  But these start out as round holes made on the drill press while the entire stick is still square.
 
There is also a sheave on the outboard end.  The holes for this simulated sheave are also drilled while the stick is square.
 

 
Then the outboard end is measured and marked for the 7-10-7 ratios to make it an octagon.  From an octagon it is then made round.  There are many way to do this.  Mini-plan...files...by hand....then rounded off on a lathe or even chocked in your hand drill.
 

 
Then I made it round...in my hand drill...and taperred it to match the plan while doing so.
 

 
Once that was done...the simulated sheave on the outboard end was detailed.  I used a #11 blade to connect the holes and carve it out a little.  Then mini-files were used to round off the simulated sheave.  Later I will darken it with pencil.
 

 
The three inboard holes need to be made square...again there are many way to do this.  I decided to just use my #11 blade to carefully square off the corners.  The inboard portion will eventually be painted black.
 

 
The outboard end also has a metal band with four eyes around it.  This was made from paper.  You could use art tape or even brass if you wanted.  Again there are so many choices.  It was painted black and weathered so it looked differently than the wood elements painted black.
 

 
Then it was mounted in the hole at the bow and the fit tweaked.  Once it looked good,  the bowsprit step was slid onto the inboard end.  You wouldnt be able to slide the bowsprit in position if the step was already glued in place.  So this is a bit tricky.  But soon after I was able to get it all in position and glued securely.  Then I touched up the paint and cleaned it up.
 

 

 
Next up the long guns can be positioned....but I am unsure of I will add them.  They will look very crammed in there.  I will have to contemplate that for a bit.

Hi friends,
 
construction mistake removes,
some accesories there made.
Karl

Hello friends.
 
Artillery of the vessel 74. gunship.
Second batterie gun 18,pdr
Scale 1:15
 
Karl
 
 
 
 

Canoe21, thank you i hope that you will make best as you can! do it slow and without many attempts it can not be a good model.
 
Chidokan, if you could buy book Anatomy of the ship, lets do it, cos the book is much much better base than everything by Sergal. My opinion is, wait with making hole for rudder on the board if you will whole hull complete. After that you will start with rudder fitting, make mark and the hole.
 
cheers,
 
there is more pics, sorry in last time i am very lazy with upload

maturin; "he would pun would pick a pocket"

Hi All,
 
Not a real update, but figured I'd post this early in case this helps someone out. I know Udo is currently working on his beakhead planking.
 
In doing a test fit of the beakhead doors, I found they did not fit as they were too high for the openings in the bulkhead.   Checking the plans, I found the doors matched the drawing of the completed beakhead on sheet 4, but were indeed higher than the door openings for the beakhead bulkhead G as detailed on sheet 3. An early test fit of a door should show if your kit has the same issue.
 
I've now increased the height for two of the four doors as you can see in the picture below of a test fit. I've also put a door next to the unchanged openings as a reference using a deck plank to set the height.  Pretty glad I found this now as normally the doors are added after finish out of much of the interior bow decking, furniture and painting.
 
Hope this is useful.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 
 

A little update concerning the progress in rigging HMS Surprise.
 

 
It was a surprise for me how time consuming the detailing of each and every sail turned out...
 

 
...and there are quite a few very specialized objects to create. In scale 1:48 you see allmost everything.