lionfish
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lionfish reacted to UpstateNY in USF Confederacy by UpstateNY - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hi All,
A little more progress over the past week. The 16 (!) bulkheads have been scraped clean of the top layer of laser char. The char was very sticky and thick. I prefer to scrap using the back of a dull Xacto blade rather than sand to minimize the dust. I left a thin char layer as recommended to help guide the fairing of the hull later in the build. Bulkhead and former slots needed a lot of filing to enable the them to engage evenly using just gentle finger pressure...initially the bulkheads would not slide into the former slots at all.
Images are below including the last one which is just for fun showing just how large this build is when compared to my Red Dragon! The Dragon seemed pretty large when I was building her, but she is completely dwarfed by the Lady Confederacy. So...lots of fun to come....
Thanks again for all the kind comments, the likes and for just simply stopping by!
Cheers,
Nigel.
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lionfish got a reaction from Canute in airbrush for wooden ship?
dons an old friend of yours? thats awesome, i use his site all the time. my first airbrush was an aztek, it needs some TLC but im sure would still work great.
if your set on that brand, id get the ultra or evolution. they are the base line models and are more than adequate for our job. honestly id go with the ultra, its half the price and will do the same job. you can always upgrade later.
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lionfish reacted to overdale in airbrush for wooden ship?
Bill,
If you sit the can in a saucepan of warm (IMPORTANT..warm not boiling) water for five minutes the internal temperature and pressure is increased and the spray is a lot finer.
Practice on some scrap first but you will notice quite a difference. The paint dries much faster too with the elevated temperature the solvent evaporates quicker.
I rarely use an airbrush now. A spray can works fine for me.
Dan.
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lionfish reacted to dgbot in airbrush for wooden ship?
Michael, if Amazon does business in Israel try them I think you will find an airbrush for less. My advice would be to go with a Paasche H or Badger Anthem. I have been a happy user with the Paasche. And I have heard many good things about the Anthem and they are both more than adequate for our hobby.
David B
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lionfish reacted to popeye the sailor in airbrush for wooden ship?
I use an air brush........wouldn't do without it. I have a very low cost spray outfit which is sold by Testor's.......does just as good a job, as a high priced brand. it's a kit called the 'Amazing Air' airbrush kit. it run with a can of compressed air, but I adapted it to my 25 gal compressor. I also have a spraycraft gravity feed, and an Aztek 320, which I have all the accessories and two of each tips {never used} to know more about the Testor's airbrush kit:
http://www.testors.com/category/136949/Airbrushes
I thought I had another link........but I guess I deleted it. here is an old friend of mine.....he's tried many airbrushes and may give you more info on them.
https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home
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lionfish got a reaction from Canute in airbrush for wooden ship?
single action means the button does a single job, meaning the paint flow is set by a screw and the button just runs the air. double action means the button controls paint mixture and air flow. single action is great for beginners, and consistency. double actions are better for experienced people and those who need to change line widths and paint flow on the fly. anyone who uses airbrushes a lot tend to have more than one, i have a single and a double action. the badger 200 old style is a single action, wereas the badger 155 anthem is a double action.
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lionfish got a reaction from Canute in airbrush for wooden ship?
save your money on the harder-steenbeck, those are marketed to professionals, get a paasche or badger, great brushes for a great price. then use the money you save to get a nice compressor. i will direct you to this site: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ it helped me with the research and knowledge to get a good airbrush. good luck and feel free to ask any questions, ive been building plastic models for nearly 15 years
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lionfish got a reaction from justsayrow in airbrush for wooden ship?
save your money on the harder-steenbeck, those are marketed to professionals, get a paasche or badger, great brushes for a great price. then use the money you save to get a nice compressor. i will direct you to this site: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ it helped me with the research and knowledge to get a good airbrush. good luck and feel free to ask any questions, ive been building plastic models for nearly 15 years
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lionfish got a reaction from granta in airbrush for wooden ship?
i dont see why you couldnt use one, and airbrush is just for application of paint and other media. i also build many other models so i already had an airbrush on hand, this is what i use http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/ba155aiandki.html plus you need a compressor to run it. although as i see many model ships arent painted very much, and often in hard to reach or complex situations that airbrushes arent too good for unless youre using a very fine detail brush with a hand as steady as a brain surgeon. just my 2cents worth, if your unhappy with traditional brushes try using better quality ones or using sponge brushes.
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lionfish got a reaction from thibaultron in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
also be aware that brass hardens the more you work it, so it might be necessary to anneal every now and them. http://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-photo-etch-tools
these tools are designed for photoetch, but i dont see why they wouldnt work on similar sized brass parts.
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lionfish got a reaction from thibaultron in Long Term Paint Storage
it depends on what kind of mix you have, a mix of pure paint will keep for a while. but its not recommended to return thinned mixtures back into the bottle. you could get some gasket rubber from home depot and a circle cutter to make gaskets for the cap. other than that, reduce the amount of air in the jar and turn them every now and then.
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lionfish got a reaction from druxey in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
also be aware that brass hardens the more you work it, so it might be necessary to anneal every now and them. http://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-photo-etch-tools
these tools are designed for photoetch, but i dont see why they wouldnt work on similar sized brass parts.
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lionfish got a reaction from Canute in HMS Surprise by Palladio - Scale 1:48 - as she may have appeared 1805 -1810
awesome looking guns, i couldnt cast near that quality. the finish on the guns look great, i always had a hard time with finding the right look for weathered guns, i experimented with a mix of ghost grey with aluminum. anyway still a great job
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lionfish got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Surprise by Palladio - Scale 1:48 - as she may have appeared 1805 -1810
awesome looking guns, i couldnt cast near that quality. the finish on the guns look great, i always had a hard time with finding the right look for weathered guns, i experimented with a mix of ghost grey with aluminum. anyway still a great job
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lionfish got a reaction from Canute in Tool for Shaping Brass Strip
also be aware that brass hardens the more you work it, so it might be necessary to anneal every now and them. http://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-photo-etch-tools
these tools are designed for photoetch, but i dont see why they wouldnt work on similar sized brass parts.
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lionfish reacted to UpstateNY in USF Confederacy by UpstateNY - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hi All,
Thanks again for the kind comments and the likes.
Assembly of the bulkhead former, keel and stem has been completed which finishes Chapter One of the instructions.
Former was sanded to the thickness of the rabbet strip at the bow and stern following the provided bearding lines. Stem was then tapered to 1/8in thick where the figurehead will sit and was glued to the former after re-staining and a coat of protective poly. Keel was assembled with the scarf joint being filed to fit in the same way as the bow and the false keel was added. All keel parts were initially stained and poly'ed before assembly. Scarf joint bolts were simulated using a #70 drill to make the 2 sets of 8 holes and the tips of toothpicks glued into the holes. The tips were then sawn off and sanded smooth before a light staining to darken the end grain and a final coat of wipe on poly.
Images below and next up is assembling the bulkheads and numerous filler pieces to start Chapter 2.
Cheers,
Nigel.
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lionfish reacted to Chuck in what is the ship at the backdrop of the forum?
My bad...yes it was the Cumberland....its been a few years. I was torn between the two and did go with Cumberland....and yes if anyone is wondering we do have permission to use it.....
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lionfish got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Surprise by Palladio - Scale 1:48 - as she may have appeared 1805 -1810
i can almost hear the creak of the wood, and feel the spray of the sea. im going to have to watch master and commander: far side of the world again. amazing job, if you play with the lighting a bit you could pass these off as photos of a real ship.
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lionfish got a reaction from Canute in HMS Surprise by Palladio - Scale 1:48 - as she may have appeared 1805 -1810
i can almost hear the creak of the wood, and feel the spray of the sea. im going to have to watch master and commander: far side of the world again. amazing job, if you play with the lighting a bit you could pass these off as photos of a real ship.
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lionfish got a reaction from Bobstrake in HMS Surprise by Palladio - Scale 1:48 - as she may have appeared 1805 -1810
i can almost hear the creak of the wood, and feel the spray of the sea. im going to have to watch master and commander: far side of the world again. amazing job, if you play with the lighting a bit you could pass these off as photos of a real ship.
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lionfish reacted to JesseLee in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
The family cat Izzy decided she wanted to sleep on my work bench last night so she cleared an area of it off to lay down. Along with sanding sticks & mini files she shoved all the wood scrolled molding I've been reworking & dozens of pre-made eyebolts & tiny things like that. Still cant find all the wooden parts. Will have to re-do again some of the head rail pieces again. The carpet has swallowed up many of the tiny metal pieces that will probably never be recovered. Weeks of fabrication lost!
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lionfish reacted to UpstateNY in USF Confederacy by UpstateNY - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Welcome one and all and very glad for all the company! Better make yourselves comfortable as this won't be a fast build!
Yep Sal, no "cooling off"! Quite apart from the fact, I've been itching to start the Lady Confederacy for months, modeling is what helps me "cool off" after the usual work day challenges!
Cheers,
Nigel.
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lionfish reacted to UpstateNY in USF Confederacy by UpstateNY - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hi All,
Firstly, thank you Don and Nick for stopping by and of course to all for the likes. Nick, looking forward to seeing the start of your build....please start soon!
So, some progress as the bulkhead former has been assembled. Took a few days to remove a slight warp in the pieces by dampening them and weighting them down on a flat board. The rabbet strip was glued to the center of the former after shaping it follow the bow shape using some light heat.
While the former was being flattened, the stem was assembled. It took some time to remove the angles formed on the cut faces by the laser cutter so they would fit together evenly. Shaping was slowly done using needle files and often checking both sides for fit by holding them together flat on a glass plate. The 3rd image shows the pieces in a test fit.
Following Chuck's instructions, I then stained all the pieces before gluing. I already had some Minmax Golden Pecan stain so tried a test piece after a light sanding to clean up the basswood surface. After 2 coats, with each left 15 mins before removing the excess, the basswood was a nice warm red/gold color. I hope you like it! The last two pictures show the stem after staining and glueing along with my reference piece. I plan to use this reference through the build to try and keep the color consistent.
Cheers,
Nigel.
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lionfish reacted to Palladio in HMS Surprise by Palladio - Scale 1:48 - as she may have appeared 1805 -1810
Lets have a little surprise gathering tonight
a litle tribute to Capt. Marryat, the almost (al least in Germany) forgotten godfather of naval storys.
Ther are a lot of thíngs that make a quarterdeck looking "authentic", the capstan, the wheel and of course the binnacle.
... and aft of the wheel the (one and only) ships lamp.
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