WackoWolf

Hi everyone,
 
Thanks for the nice words about my first attempt.
 
I just posted several pics in the completed ships section, if you care to visit that would be very kind.
 
Nigel she looks as she did forty years ago. I attempted, then to "age" her a bit. The stairs for example. I also used an air brush to highlight certain areas with stain, then Watco oil to preserve the wood.The oil was rag applied.
 
Then finished the rigging. My nineteen year old girlfriend did the sewing for the sails (She's still by my side). The only changes are with some of the rigging which has lost some of its original color and "relaxed a bit. I hesitate to go in and adjust things.
 
Here are a couple more pics. Thanks for dropping in. Its been almost a time capsule looking ship, hard to believe that it was such a long time ago. A couple for footnotes; I paid $70.00 USD, and I only had sandpaper, a basic Dremel and rarzor blades. Whoa how our hobby has improved with helpful machines. I note that this ship is still being produced today with full color booklet instructions (:-)
 
OK now back to the Vasa.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi everyone,
 
Well it took about forty years, but I finally took some pics of my first build. Here are a couple of pics. I will put some together and post them in the completed ships section in the next couple of days. I was in my early 20s and it was the Mantua Santa Maria. She has been untouched in all of these years. She held up fairly well. 
 
 

Keel blocks ... Not processed after casting.

Which you won't do if you bring out the rotary tool.  This is an operation to which the rotary tool is not suited.  It can take too much off too easily.
 
Colin

Without seeing what your model actually looks like, i can only offer a general suggestion. Measure and mark out the hole first. Now check it again!  Drill an undersized hole slowly, backing up with a pad of scrap wood. Holding the pad tightly against the inside of the hull will prevent tearing out when the drill bit breaks through. Slowly enlarge the hole to the size and shape you want using Swiss files. That way you maintain good control over the operation.

Thanks Brian.Yes I have a rather large stash of boxwood and ebony in hand now for this build.Yes I will replicate the scarphs on keel and prow and the rudder will be a multipiece affair.I would say though,if ever a kits material would come close to me using it,it would be this one.The quality of the walnut is beyond reproach and anyone considering this kit,but wanting to use the walnut would be more than happy.
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks Mij,I thought this might be up your street.I was originally planning on scratch building Lennox next,but due to the extensive development work required,that has been put on hold for now.Richard Endsor's 'restoration warship' book is an excellent read though and provides a very big insight into construction of the period.It will prove invaluable in filling in a few gaps in Euromodels' drawings.For whatever reason they provide a longitudinal section through and sections at a couple of stations but no deck top elevations at the various internal levels
Kind Regards Nigel

I am going to try and get technical now and provide text with each picture  
The first step is to copy the drawings regarding the bulkheads.This is due to the between deck areas not be cut out from the factory.These were pasted to the relevant bulkheads to allow cutting out with the scrollsaw.Some areas were not shown,mainly the first and last bulkhead which will require some drafting to get the cutouts.

The design of the kit intends for a 3mm by 7mm stringer to be fitted each side of the hull.This stringer does not coincide with anything and to a certain extent will be in my way,so the bulkhead notches were filled with scrap timber.

These are pictures of the skeleton so far.You will notice I have cut my own notches out on the lower deck.These are for 5mm square stringers supplied by me.These provide support for the lower gundeck,which is the only deck that will have a plywood subdeck.The plywood additions to the structure are to incorporate dimensional stability and resistance to twisting.The triangle design makes the skeleton rigid,it is impossible to twist it for and aft.The lower hull will be infilled with lime wood.This triangular structure reduces the wood required and also prevents any distortion that can occur due to the moisture from the glue when fitting the infill.                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
That brings things up to date for the time being.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Matti
Yes she will be natural wood.I am hoping the only paint used will be to make her look old.The task is made easier by the fact the only colour is black as I don't think I will be going for the Red on the internal planking.However if I did,this would only be on the upper deck,as according to my research,Deptford where she was built had a habit of using unseasoned timber to speed up production.They didn't paint the inside walls of the hull in an attempt to let the timber breath.This didn't work and they soon had lot's of ships with rotten hulls!!!.
Yes I have plenty on and starting another log next week as well          That is for me though .That will bring my log count up to four,probably some sort of record    Caroline has moved on a lot this week but I will update probably at the weekend.I am working on five different things at once to combat drying times So I will take some pics when it comes together.
Kind Regards Nigel

My dear friend Remco, do you know what you are doing to me          You are pushing the envelope for me - - - brass mine bun lids - - indeed    Now, that would be the easy way out, at least for me and if this wooden thingy is not working out I may just go that route.  It seems a shame to make it from brass because it'll be painted anyhow.   But then again, it aint over till it's over - - - or after the fat lady sings. 
 
As it is I had to remove one ply from the plywood so it would cooperate with me in making the bend.  I now have a piece of bywood        This morning I cemented the little braces to the lid cover but then had to go to the dentist for my FINAL visit on the restoration project - - - hip, hip, hurray   
 
I'll be going to the shipyard right now and clean that little sucker up and dry-ft it.  If it doesn't look good I may just go for the brass.  It really would solve my hinge concern too - - - hmmmmm - - - thanks for the hint though 
You know, when I was puts'n with the inside of the ballast tank yesterday I had this fleeting but sickening thought popping into my mind - - - why not do the one next to it as well.  Well, like I said, it was a fleeting though.  No, I'll leave it with on.  You all know what happens when you do two, from there it's three then ten, then - - - you want to see me totally nuts and berserk and run into the sunset to Beserkistan - - - never to be seen again????  Doomed to a life making brass thingies   
 
The styrene bun is also made and dry fitted, seems okay.  I also figured out how to cement that one in place.  I hope to have a few pics this evening.
 
Oooh - -  what tangled webs we weave but thanks for the hint Remco  
 
Cheers, 

Really great to see you're doing the mine bin. Although I had expected you would make the lid from brass as you did such a fine job on all the lids on the conning tower........(hint...)
 
Remco

Hello dear friends and wow what a response, thank you all for dropping in and "liking" my build.
 
Hello Doris, I'm so happy and pleased seeing you here and thank you for your compliments.  I am also enjoying your build of the Royal Caroline, which is an inspiration to me to do my best in making my model acceptable to my father.
 
Hi Popeye, thanks you for your accolades, much appreciated.  Yup, I bit the bullet and waiting for the consequences 
 
Hello Mark, yes, I got your "tongue in cheek" funny alright but my remark was directed at what Sailor posted  yesterday on post 839.  And yes, I figured why not doing the mine thing and see where the chips may fall.  So far it seems to be working okay for me.
 
Cheers,
 
 

A small but fun item accomplished. I made and installed the remaining cabinetry at the stern in the Great Cabin. This consisted of the rudder head housing and two benches. They were made from boxwood sheet and strip and finished with Wipe-on Poly. The "cushions" on the benches are boxwood, shaped and then painted a maroon color. The cabinet knobs are the smallest nails that I had on hand. The penny in the first photo gives an idea of the size of these pieces.
 
Bob

bell and ladders

A great little video Doris I have the very deepest respect and admiration for modelers like yourself that achieve results like yours with the most basic of toolkits
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Now that´s one evil looking paint scheme, go for it Tim! 
 
/Alfons

Thanks Alfons, actually this wont be the final color, what you see now is just the primer coat.  I still need to decide which color to go with, I'm leaning in the direction which they were delivered from ELCO to the USN which are two shades of gray, one for the hull and one for the deck and above, this measure was known as "Standard Gray."  
 
   
 
Cheers,
Tim       

At this point I need to be sure the chart house matches the camber to the deck.  I have applied a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to the deck where the chart house will be glued.  I'll work the chart house back and forth until it matches the deck camber.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
Tim

PopJack,
 
I agree,if you can't drive in the white stuff stay off the road.  A majority of the drivers in Hampton Roads can't drive in the rain, let alone anything more challenging.    
 
Best bet!  Stay home and work on a ship model!    
 
Tim

Great project and great work.  I kind of smiled when you mentioned the forward rake of the turret. To a non-expert like me, I'd probably see the slope and figure your guide on the sander wasn't square! 
 
I've lived in the "South" for a while.  The lack of experience the drivers here have in any form of white stuff is startling.  Today I just closed my offices for non-essentials until the roads had a bit of time to clear.  The risk to these folks when they are forced to be on the road is just "to terrible to contemplate."

John,
 
Slow but sure!  I managed to get a little time at the bench after shoveling snow.  Virginia Beach was hit pretty hard, most people down here don't know how to handle this kind of weather.  I grew up in Michigan, so needless to say I'm loving it!
 
Thanks,
Tim

Hi Glenn,
 
I don't think there's any advantage to starting to plank up from the keel at some point in your first planking.  You may want to consider doing it with your second planking depending on the effect you want to create, keeping in mind that it's all going to be covered with copper plates and paint anyway! If you'll pardon me posting a picture on your log, here's the effect I created with my second planking by planking down from the gunports to about the waterline and then up from the keel.  Not that it makes any difference, it's all copper and paint now!
 
Patrick

Bob, you mention that the moon gears turn once for every turn of the solar disc, I think that the sun gear would have to be the same diameter as the moon gear for that to be the case. It look to me like the moon gears turn twice as fast as the sun disc because the sun gear appears to have 28 teeth and the moon gears appear to have 14 teeth.
 
I could be wrong would not be the first time.
 
Michael

Like seeing what you have done to this rope walk, especially the provisions for an un-spun center wire or line. Now you have a completed rope walk. You will probably be continually  making improvements, but you now have a machine that represents what you should have received in the first place.
jud

Dear friends,

thank you very much for your compliments and kind words, I appreciate them a lot.

Today I took a video to show you the tutorial, how I make the belaying pins. All is handmade, cause I have not any special tools.
The pins are solid enough, even if they are made of two parts.  
 

 
 
And what's new on RC.....
I have finished spiral staircase - it is made of paper and covered with foils to imitate wooden look.
 







 
Kind regards
Doris