NMBROOK
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NMBROOK got a reaction from tarbrush in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hi Matti
I am sorry to hear of your condition and my thoughts are with you.I wish you a speedy recovery and hope you and your family have a fantastic Christmas.
Your work is fabulous,as always and I look forward to seeing the 'work in progress' look you are going to depict.I do not think I have seen this shown before,at least,when not part of a diorama.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from themadchemist in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Sjors in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Ferit in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hi Matti
I am sorry to hear of your condition and my thoughts are with you.I wish you a speedy recovery and hope you and your family have a fantastic Christmas.
Your work is fabulous,as always and I look forward to seeing the 'work in progress' look you are going to depict.I do not think I have seen this shown before,at least,when not part of a diorama.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kurt Johnson in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Hi Eamonn,check other thread on 'hotlist'now,Antonyuk started this one off I got the only copy abe books had but Amazon have a rapidly decreasing supply listed around the 30 Quid mark.You can have a new copy if you have the best part of £300!!!I nearly book the book new when it was released Think there is a moral in there somewhere.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Many thanks fellas! Yeah, the meds seems to be working well, and after all the tests I know everything else is in order.
I haven't decided fully about the figures. One idea is to have one for scale. My thoughts about figures is that they tend to make the model feel like a photo, not like it would be "live". This doesn't mean I don't love to look at models with figures as I definately do so.
Nigel, I haven't seen any examples either. Landström has one fantastic painting of a ship after a storm and the masts stroked (thats the words I hope). It looks very cool. I also think this gives me a chance to make the models proportions interesting, for me it makes her look like a 17th century dutch yacht. Finally it's a nod to the ship at the museum, as she has the winter set up.
Merry Christman to you too Framk!
/Matti
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hi Matti
I am sorry to hear of your condition and my thoughts are with you.I wish you a speedy recovery and hope you and your family have a fantastic Christmas.
Your work is fabulous,as always and I look forward to seeing the 'work in progress' look you are going to depict.I do not think I have seen this shown before,at least,when not part of a diorama.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hey all! I´ve got ill since posting last time, a small inflammation in the heart. I now eat medicine that will cure the inflammation and after that I should be fine again.
Anyway I made some small progress on the model last days. I have decided what setup I want and I will make her when she got her masts in place, perhaps during the early summer of 1628. I think the unfinished look is interesting and dynamic.
So I have made the second step of the main mast and the rigging for how to raise it after info from Fred Hocker. When it was in place I could glue the tops and then continue with the ropes that connect the shrouds to the tops.
I have also prepaired the railing. Fragile stuff so fingers crossed I will be able to add them later on.
/Matti
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Wasa by marktiedens - FINISHED - Corel - scale 1:75 (Vasa)
update-
Decided to work on the bow construction. The trim pieces provided in the kit didn`t seem correct to me(forgot to take a picture of them)so I cut & filed a bit to make them closer to what seemed more correct. After painting & installing trim I am pretty satisfied with them.
/Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Hit a big milestone... framing is complete and ready for planking. Well, one minor tweak to the transoms to get smooth run to the counter but that's not going to be a stopper.
Right now, I'm having second thoughts about the bulk of the planking in Swiss Pear and am considering cherry. I'll ponder a bit more.....
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Royal Caroline by marsalv - FINISHED - Panart
The belaying pins and cleats are installed on the shrouds.
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Royal Caroline by marsalv - FINISHED - Panart
Thanks for nice comments to all .
To GuntherMT: The catharpins are made form one thread - see picture tutorial.
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
The burton pendants, shrouds stay and preventer stay are now done on the lower main mast. The rope sizes were, of course, larger than for the mizzen, but the procedures followed were the same. This phase of the work will be completed next with the same lines on the lower foremast. This may be delayed a bit since my kids and grandkids are all arriving for an extended holiday visit.
Let me take this opportunity to wish all who visit this log a very happy holiday season and a healthy New Year.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to Drazen in De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by Dražen - Scale 1:45
Just few photos of the progress…
Dražen
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NMBROOK reacted to Drazen in De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by Dražen - Scale 1:45
The outer part of the gunport lids glued together with epoxy…
Dražen
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NMBROOK got a reaction from dgbot in How to hand paint larger areas of a model
Great tutorial Alistair
I use a very similar process but with acrylics exclusively.The biggest thing I have found with acrylics is to use Tamiya thinners.Yes they are expensive,but they include a retarder and flow enhancer,normal water doesn't.The difference with the thinners added really is 'night and day'.It is important to keep adding thinners to the paint on the palette as it starts to thicken whilst you are working.
The biggest difference is I spray the clear which is a polyurethane varnish.I use a professional automotive touch up gun with a large compressor.This enables perfect atomisation and because of the volume of material delivered eliminates the drying of the clear as it immediately touches the surface.This gives it a chance to 'flow out' and stops the grainy appearance you can get from spraying.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from butch in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Hi Boyd
The one piece of advise I would offer,if you do decide to buy a table saw don't make the same mistake as me,save the extra and buy the Byrnes not the Proxxon FET like me.Whilst the saw itself is fine,the precision repeat-ability of cuts using the saw guide is questionable.Yes there are ways around it involving lots of faffing,but this is one component I am less than impressed with.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Royal Caroline by marsalv - FINISHED - Panart
Little bit more pictures.
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Royal Caroline by marsalv - FINISHED - Panart
Little progress - futtock staves nad catharpines are installed.
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Wasa by marktiedens - FINISHED - Corel - scale 1:75 (Vasa)
Thanks Nigel,although I have a ways to go to come close to your workmanship.
/Mark
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