NMBROOK

Thanks Ulises yes HUGE is the word that springs to mind         I may get around to posting pics at some stage
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I agree Druxey that would be a little challenging.I don't say you can eliminate spiling completely,just reduce the amount required.To date,i haven't had any spring back issues,however all my final planking is glued to a continuous substrate,be it solid wood infill or a first planking layer.I know Chuck single planks over bulkheads or frames albeit closer together than one would find in a standard kit.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I agree Druxey that would be a little challenging.I don't say you can eliminate spiling completely,just reduce the amount required.To date,i haven't had any spring back issues,however all my final planking is glued to a continuous substrate,be it solid wood infill or a first planking layer.I know Chuck single planks over bulkheads or frames albeit closer together than one would find in a standard kit.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Fish
 
I disagree with David,you can edge bend planking and many builders far more experienced than myself have shown techniques for doing this.I have even successfully edge bent Ebony.
 
The odd stealer was using in planking of many full size vessels,however,if you want to emulate the planking on contemporary models,then stealers are undesirable as they were very rarely used on these models.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel.

Thank you very much indeed aferox and Ferit  
 
I wish you all the best with Mordaunt aferox.You will have to start a build log,it will be nice not to be the only Mordaunt build on here  There is a good video slideshow build on youtube.I may be wrong,but this may be the build of Murpys77,a member on here.
 
Excellent to hear from you again Ferit my friend.I myself am now suffering post moving blues.I spent years getting everything how I wanted it and have to start over again However I have resumed work but it may be a little while before I post updates.
 
Biggest issue with moving is my carving has gone AWOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!It was put in a safe place,that safe I can't find it              
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Druxey,
 
In my "scrap" and "misc" piles, I have pieces that I soaked and bent with a curling iron set to "MAX".  The pieces are still bent after several years.  
 
I did do some steambending way back on my Constellation but the parts on the ship and I'm not finding any scrap... so that's inconclusive.

Hi Fish
 
I disagree with David,you can edge bend planking and many builders far more experienced than myself have shown techniques for doing this.I have even successfully edge bent Ebony.
 
The odd stealer was using in planking of many full size vessels,however,if you want to emulate the planking on contemporary models,then stealers are undesirable as they were very rarely used on these models.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel.

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

WOW! If at 1/90 I thought the hull was humongous, can't even start to think about it at 1/60. Best wishes with your project, Nigel.

I agree Druxey that would be a little challenging.I don't say you can eliminate spiling completely,just reduce the amount required.To date,i haven't had any spring back issues,however all my final planking is glued to a continuous substrate,be it solid wood infill or a first planking layer.I know Chuck single planks over bulkheads or frames albeit closer together than one would find in a standard kit.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The idea is to prebend the plank off the model Druxey,I totally agree that bending as you lay the planks is fraught with problems.Chuck uses a hair dryer,Dr Mike uses an iron or a toaster!Prebending the planks removes any inbuilt stresses and prevents problems later on.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Fish
 
I disagree with David,you can edge bend planking and many builders far more experienced than myself have shown techniques for doing this.I have even successfully edge bent Ebony.
 
The odd stealer was using in planking of many full size vessels,however,if you want to emulate the planking on contemporary models,then stealers are undesirable as they were very rarely used on these models.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel.

Looking good Ulises
My 1/60 scratchbuild to Mamoli's plans going along in the background only highlights the problems you must have faced getting a fair hull.The bulkheads are miles away and unsymmetrical.Admittedly all errors on the plans are scaled up 1.5 times on my build,but the errors are as much as 3mm on my skeleton.Much packing sanding and checking will be required before I even think about planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking good Ulises
My 1/60 scratchbuild to Mamoli's plans going along in the background only highlights the problems you must have faced getting a fair hull.The bulkheads are miles away and unsymmetrical.Admittedly all errors on the plans are scaled up 1.5 times on my build,but the errors are as much as 3mm on my skeleton.Much packing sanding and checking will be required before I even think about planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The idea is to prebend the plank off the model Druxey,I totally agree that bending as you lay the planks is fraught with problems.Chuck uses a hair dryer,Dr Mike uses an iron or a toaster!Prebending the planks removes any inbuilt stresses and prevents problems later on.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Fish
 
I disagree with David,you can edge bend planking and many builders far more experienced than myself have shown techniques for doing this.I have even successfully edge bent Ebony.
 
The odd stealer was using in planking of many full size vessels,however,if you want to emulate the planking on contemporary models,then stealers are undesirable as they were very rarely used on these models.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel.

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Okay,I admit and apologize for what comes across as a 'knee jerk' response earlier.
 
Here is my take on things in greater depth.I do not deny having the ability to scarchbuild,in fact my frustration with drafting errors on Royal Williams sheer plan means that my first and probably only fully framed model will be that of la Renomee to the Ancre monograph.
 
My stance is this,I have spent over twenty five years making simple parts to complex assemblies in my day job,I want a release in my hobby.Scratchbuilding a ship,whilst requiring manual skills,is essentially being able to read drawing,manufacture these parts and then work on a sequence of assembly.Exactly the same as my day job.
 
Kitbashing presents a different set of problems to solve.This problem solving and also the use of artistic flair is the difference that attracts me.I say artistic flair as I now take historical accuracy with a pinch of salt in some respects.No kit is 100% accurate historically,this relieves the pressure to be committed to accuracy in my eyes.Following a monograph,you are bound to do everything by the book.No disrespect to the purists out there,but that is not for me.I would rather create a plausible artistic representation.
 
Now on to timber choice.There are a few builders who inspire me and I am in awe of their work.When I reached a certain level I realised the biggest thing that detracted away from my skills was the choice of timber.No matter what talent I possessed,my models would always look inferior due to the use of the kit supplied timber.I bit the bullet,dug deep into my pocket and chose to give boxwood and pear a go.Whilst these do cost serious amounts of money,not only do they add to the 'quality' appearance they make the work more pleasurable.Too many years of frustration trying to shape small details in walnut only to have a piece 'flake' off.
 
This is not a 'cheap' route to take.The current spend on timber for Mordaunt is equal to the cost of the kit,however,the build may take 3000 hours of mainly enjoyment,so the cost per hour equates to a negligible amount.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking good Ulises
My 1/60 scratchbuild to Mamoli's plans going along in the background only highlights the problems you must have faced getting a fair hull.The bulkheads are miles away and unsymmetrical.Admittedly all errors on the plans are scaled up 1.5 times on my build,but the errors are as much as 3mm on my skeleton.Much packing sanding and checking will be required before I even think about planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks guys,
I decided to install the hanging knees now because the inner part of bulwark will be colored.
Some pictures of parts prepared for the stern.

Instalation of hanging knees.

Thank you very much indeed aferox and Ferit  
 
I wish you all the best with Mordaunt aferox.You will have to start a build log,it will be nice not to be the only Mordaunt build on here  There is a good video slideshow build on youtube.I may be wrong,but this may be the build of Murpys77,a member on here.
 
Excellent to hear from you again Ferit my friend.I myself am now suffering post moving blues.I spent years getting everything how I wanted it and have to start over again However I have resumed work but it may be a little while before I post updates.
 
Biggest issue with moving is my carving has gone AWOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!It was put in a safe place,that safe I can't find it              
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you albert and Burroak.
I would like to wish everyone who watches my log Happy New Year and of course a lot of joy from your hobby.
Preparation of cathead. Before final installation will be supplemented by even ornaments.