NMBROOK

I find the Brynes drawplate does exactly what it is supposed to do.To my knowledge this is the only drawplate designed to reduce the diameter of wood by cutting(I use boxwood)Other drawplates for jewellers purposes are designed to gradually reduce the wire diameter by forming,not cutting so these are not designed for wood.Two slightly different designs and you feed the material in the opposite way round.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

I find the Brynes drawplate does exactly what it is supposed to do.To my knowledge this is the only drawplate designed to reduce the diameter of wood by cutting(I use boxwood)Other drawplates for jewellers purposes are designed to gradually reduce the wire diameter by forming,not cutting so these are not designed for wood.Two slightly different designs and you feed the material in the opposite way round.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

Your creativity and innovation never ceases to amaze me Daniel Excellent work
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
p.s I look forward to development pics of Trinnidad although I have silly thoughts of full interior and crew now

I find the Brynes drawplate does exactly what it is supposed to do.To my knowledge this is the only drawplate designed to reduce the diameter of wood by cutting(I use boxwood)Other drawplates for jewellers purposes are designed to gradually reduce the wire diameter by forming,not cutting so these are not designed for wood.Two slightly different designs and you feed the material in the opposite way round.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

I find the Brynes drawplate does exactly what it is supposed to do.To my knowledge this is the only drawplate designed to reduce the diameter of wood by cutting(I use boxwood)Other drawplates for jewellers purposes are designed to gradually reduce the wire diameter by forming,not cutting so these are not designed for wood.Two slightly different designs and you feed the material in the opposite way round.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

I find the Brynes drawplate does exactly what it is supposed to do.To my knowledge this is the only drawplate designed to reduce the diameter of wood by cutting(I use boxwood)Other drawplates for jewellers purposes are designed to gradually reduce the wire diameter by forming,not cutting so these are not designed for wood.Two slightly different designs and you feed the material in the opposite way round.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

I find the Brynes drawplate does exactly what it is supposed to do.To my knowledge this is the only drawplate designed to reduce the diameter of wood by cutting(I use boxwood)Other drawplates for jewellers purposes are designed to gradually reduce the wire diameter by forming,not cutting so these are not designed for wood.Two slightly different designs and you feed the material in the opposite way round.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

So glad you are posting this Morey     You have built one STUNNING model!!!!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi all - proceeding along without any more bumps in the road so far. After dry fitting the bulkheads & decks I left the decks in place & glued the bulkheads - they all lined up nicely with the decks in place. Almost no adjustments were needed to the deck slots. I also left the decks in place when gluing the stringers in place. Extra supports were added between the bulkheads which made the framework very strong. Then I glued the lower gun deck in place along with the stern blocks - I hope they are in the correct place - it would have been nice if they would have given some kind of measurement as to their placement. I also added some bracing to the top of the stern frames as it would be very easy to break them at this point.
 

 

 

 
Mark

Hi Mark,
 
The way you assembled this seems very innovative to me.  A question: how did you manage to glue the bulkheads to the keel with the decks in place?  Individual bulkheads could not be removed with the decks in place.  My guess: did you first fix all the bulkheads together by fitting the stringers and extra supports, then lift the bulkhead and deck sub-assembly away from the keel, apply glue to all the keel slots in one go, and then press the keel back into place? 
 
Also, I believe the Euromodels/ Como kit provides half cannon and false canon posts for the lower decks.  Will you use those, or will you make complete cannon for the lower decks and replace the half cannon provided by EM?  I am very impressed that EM provide all decks.  Have you thought of providing some kind of "cut out" view in part of the hull, maybe only from one side of the model, so a part of all the internal decks can be seen, perhaps with some deck fittings / scratch built ladders / rigged canon etc for the visible area?  For me, when I can afford the RW, I think I would use a 2mm perspex sheet as a "window" between two or three of the frames, and cut "gun ports" into it, as well as fixing part of the canon rigging and gunnery accessories to the side of the perspex.  Perspex can be moulded quite easily by gentle heating and applying pressure where it needs to bend.
 
If you haven't seen it already, there is another build in progress on another forum, build log here

Thanks Jason - welcome aboard.
 
Rob - what I did was run some medium CA glue down the joints to hold the bulkheads in place. I plan to add some regular wood glue to the joints to make sure they stay in place. I do not plan to show any cut away for the interior - I will just use the false cannons for the lower decks. Unless I put lights inside it would be hard to see any interior detail & I am not adding lights. 
 
Mark

Your creativity and innovation never ceases to amaze me Daniel Excellent work
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
p.s I look forward to development pics of Trinnidad although I have silly thoughts of full interior and crew now

Your creativity and innovation never ceases to amaze me Daniel Excellent work
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
p.s I look forward to development pics of Trinnidad although I have silly thoughts of full interior and crew now

When you get finished with this"BEAUTY", would you please load her up with some of your delicious Greek olives and send her
on her madien voyage over here to sunny California  ......... just kidding Dimitris..... beautiful work , that is one great! looking
build.
 
Frank

I also hope that I will find some time this week to make some photos of new kits which I prepare now-Ducht Statenyacht and Santisima Trinidad.
Best regards
Daniel Dusek

Then I tried to make some figurines of sailors in 1/72 scale. I hope I will be able to prepare some figurines for resin production, here are some pictures of virtual model and printed one, height of the figure is 25mm.

Hello All,
Last two weeks I tried to do some sculptures for the new kit-Dutch Statenyacht. I decide to try to learn work in 3D sculpting software-SCULPTRIS and then to print in on 3D printer. As I found the SCULPTRIS is superb software for that and it is free, here is the link: http://pixologic.com/sculptris/
On the lictures you can see the SCULPTRIS virtual model of fish sculpture and result from 3D printer.

The framing started and progressed as shown, using a jig to hold the frames in position unitl I was able to add some internal planking for support and stability

I then paused to take on my biggest challenge, which was to carve the figurehead.  I estimate that it took me a total of about 70 hours to complete the four major pieces of the group.

some carving work

further progress January 2015

some finishing details I forgot to post, flag making , blocks and cleats. Used deadeyes , small blocks and hearts from Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model company, but made many of my own as well.

You're doing an awesome job with her Michael, despite the lousy plans Corel provided. 

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing with the foremast cap (platform?) I decided to try to make a ring for the lowest one on the platform. This may seem old school to some of you, but for me it was new thinking J I used Corel’s metal ring as a template.
 
I modeled my attempt, for this cap, from looking at the 1/10th. I also realized that I would need to attach the chainplate deadeyes through the lower ring (four to a side), and not at the base of the platform as was done for the bowsprit cap.
 
That said, it also appears as if there are variations in the cap ring designs when comparing the 1/10th to the 1/1 rebuilt cap rings; again Vasa and its question marks.
 
So those small basswood rings that I curved, would not accept chainplate deadeyes. It would have been a mess. So a larger ring it had to be.
 
I used the Vasa museum plan sheet as a guide for placing the ring braces.
 
The foremast had an issue as well; as I made the mid smaller foremast I then realized after also making the trestles that the mid mast just slipped right through.
 
So back to re-adjust trestle spacing and a bit of sanding and squaring off the tip of the lower foremast (note the pics) all fits ok now. Enjoying this part of the build.
 
Always BIG thanks for dropping by!
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 

Rob,
 
There has been MUCH discussion from several Vasa builders. The overwhelming consensus is that Corel’s is by far the least accurate example.
 
If you care to look back into my log (the first three pages, page 10, page 13, page 15&16, ) you will see glaring examples of errors, most of which I actually returned to fix. Billings is spot on with all of my “fixes”
 
For example;
 
•The stern is totally incorrect, including the windows.
•The weather deck (hence the entire profile [including the stern]) is much too narrow.
•The gilded figures, especially at the galleries are incorrect and not representative.
•The galleries are very difficult to mount in their proper location.
•The poop deck entry doors sit much too high on the weather deck.
• All deck cannons are just “parts bin” examples, not even a resemblance of accuracy.
 
These examples are just at the top of my head.
 
Fred Hocker, the museum’s curator was wise in choosing the Billings – considered the most accurate of the three kits available. SO your choice was actually an informed choice, though from an expert.
 
Yes I have the Corel. I bought it way before I knew what I was doing, nor did I expect the kit to be so “way off” after I really started learning and being consumed with this build. 
 
The Billings example would have allowed a much more “by the instruction book” approach.
 
PS: You will note that some of my photos are missing (also from all build logs) the MSW server crashed and after the return from the dead many builders lost photos, as well as their logs (;-(
 
One the plus side, excluding sail rigging, several non Corel builders appreciate the fairly accurate Corel rigging sheets!! 
 
Cheers,
 
MIchael