NMBROOK
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Dimitris71 in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Thank you Mr Pett The break is only a temporary one.Far too much going on in my personal life at the minute to devote the time to get back into the build.
When things settle down,I have every intention of putting all my other projects on hold to move this one forward.
I wish you well with your build,it certainly looks like you have done some great work so far.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from WBlakeny in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Thank you Mr Pett The break is only a temporary one.Far too much going on in my personal life at the minute to devote the time to get back into the build.
When things settle down,I have every intention of putting all my other projects on hold to move this one forward.
I wish you well with your build,it certainly looks like you have done some great work so far.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Mr. Pett in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder
Dear Nigel,
what a pitty, that the work on your amazing model has stopped.
As I am building the DeAgostini SotS as well (with influences of the Morgan drawing, as far as my skills allow) I have taken a lot of inspirations, suggestions and ideas from your build log.
Here are two pics of my current build. Unfortunately I don't have much time for model building and I have started approximately two years later.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from tadheus in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from captain_hook in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much Don and Jason
The reason I chose epoxy in this instance Jason is two fold.Firstly,I couldn't guarantee a perfect fit to the inside of the planking.The epoxy fills gaps whereas pva does not.Secondly,epoxy sticks to ebony better than pva and I needed this joint to be as strong as possible.
Ok,I have now started work on the decorative figures that run between the windows.These are to be carved out of boxwood(yes I know,I can see where this is heading )I could cast them,but they are all different due to the angles involved.I am trying to mirror what is illustrated on the kit castings.
This is the start of the first piece.It comprises of two figures on top of one another.I have started with the top one as I want the feet to fall on the rail below the windows.This is very much in the roughing stage.Weight loss,breast reduction,then detailing are on the menu
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Chuck in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Lower hull planking progresses. Chuck says that Cheerful can be planked without spiling by edge bending the planks (and has proved it beautifully on his own model). Well, so far, so good. I have now done the upper belt of the port side lower planking. While it doesn't look anywhere as good as Chuck's, I'm reasonably satisfied.
Each plank was first tapered, then bent, then edge beveled where necessary for a tight fit. I followed the butt pattern shown in the plans.I must admit that it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks, and I went back to my old methods of plank bending, using water and heat, rather than the method used and shown by Chuck. In any event, it's now on to the same work on the starboard side.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
The grating has also been fitted to the beak head deck
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NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
Hi All,
The head rails are completed except for the second half of the top rail under the beak head deck which runs up to and over the knee supporting the catheads. These will be fitted once the catheads are installed.
You will also notice that the beak head deck supports have been covered by vertical strips of etched ply
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Peter,
Thanks for your very nice compliments, very much appreciated.
Yes Murphy’s Law is certainly a ghost for millions of people, many know his name, but many more are visited by him not knowing who he is, but nonetheless he seem's to be a constant annoyance in their lives J
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As a follow up to your last suggestion (the semi-nudes), I wasn’t comfortable with the results; though better than before. These pics, chronologically, go through the history of my obsession with looking backwards at this build. This bit has finally been put to rest.
As has been stated by other builders as well, this part also highlights how the Corel deck is too narrow.
Cheers,
Michael
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Frank,
Yes noted. Thanks,
I did take that into consideration for this platform. The others will need much wider openings for the ratline ropes. this one is the easy one. The ropes, as you know wrap above at the next cap. Yours, BTW looks excellent.
Here are a couple of pics of where I am so far (nothing has been glued into place yet.
I hope that I'm not missing something that I don't yet see??
Michael
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in How to store milled wood
I keep my workshop heated to roughly the same temperature as our centrally heated house.Theory being,store the wood in the same conditions as not only what the model will be built in,but also displayed in.Don't have AC,not many houses do in the UK,so regulating humidity is a bit hit and miss.
I have found Swiss Pear to be far the most sensitive timber to moisture,any damp and it soaks it up from the air like a sponge and promptly warps.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Build the Sovereign
I subscribed to this model when it was launched in the UK.The marketing pictures were not of the complete partwork but something else.The number of differences left me disgruntled and I cancelled the subscription.The model I started building ended up being modified to such an extent that my log has been moved to the scratch section.About two inches of the bottom of the bulkheads is all that remains.
My advise would be to save up and buy the Sergal kit,I wish I had!
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from GLakie in How to store milled wood
I keep my workshop heated to roughly the same temperature as our centrally heated house.Theory being,store the wood in the same conditions as not only what the model will be built in,but also displayed in.Don't have AC,not many houses do in the UK,so regulating humidity is a bit hit and miss.
I have found Swiss Pear to be far the most sensitive timber to moisture,any damp and it soaks it up from the air like a sponge and promptly warps.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in How to store milled wood
I keep my workshop heated to roughly the same temperature as our centrally heated house.Theory being,store the wood in the same conditions as not only what the model will be built in,but also displayed in.Don't have AC,not many houses do in the UK,so regulating humidity is a bit hit and miss.
I have found Swiss Pear to be far the most sensitive timber to moisture,any damp and it soaks it up from the air like a sponge and promptly warps.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Build the Sovereign
I subscribed to this model when it was launched in the UK.The marketing pictures were not of the complete partwork but something else.The number of differences left me disgruntled and I cancelled the subscription.The model I started building ended up being modified to such an extent that my log has been moved to the scratch section.About two inches of the bottom of the bulkheads is all that remains.
My advise would be to save up and buy the Sergal kit,I wish I had!
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from captain_hook in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Sian in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Jason I do think this taper is frequently overlooked by Kit builders.Whilst I am not familiar with kits from American manufacturers,the only European kit maker that depicts this taper and indeed that of the prow is Euromodel.I feel that addressing this point Jason,will take you model away from one of the typical 'kit traits'.You only need to look in the scratch build section and see how many parallel stern posts you can find
I can only applaud your decision for going this route
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S.you probably know me better than I know myself My carvings will be returning to natural wood
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NMBROOK got a reaction from captain_hook in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed Nigel
The upper character is now complete(well apart from the great lump of boxwood to be cut off later )
I have now started on roughing out the lower one.This one is crouched down with hands together
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Captain Poison in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much Don and Jason
The reason I chose epoxy in this instance Jason is two fold.Firstly,I couldn't guarantee a perfect fit to the inside of the planking.The epoxy fills gaps whereas pva does not.Secondly,epoxy sticks to ebony better than pva and I needed this joint to be as strong as possible.
Ok,I have now started work on the decorative figures that run between the windows.These are to be carved out of boxwood(yes I know,I can see where this is heading )I could cast them,but they are all different due to the angles involved.I am trying to mirror what is illustrated on the kit castings.
This is the start of the first piece.It comprises of two figures on top of one another.I have started with the top one as I want the feet to fall on the rail below the windows.This is very much in the roughing stage.Weight loss,breast reduction,then detailing are on the menu
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Ulises Victoria in Build the Sovereign
I subscribed to this model when it was launched in the UK.The marketing pictures were not of the complete partwork but something else.The number of differences left me disgruntled and I cancelled the subscription.The model I started building ended up being modified to such an extent that my log has been moved to the scratch section.About two inches of the bottom of the bulkheads is all that remains.
My advise would be to save up and buy the Sergal kit,I wish I had!
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
OK,I have to admit everyone knows me better than I know myself,the carvings will be natural finish,just need to buy something to strip this one back to natural wood If I use the kit castings,the challenge will be on to find a paint colour that mimics this timber when the poly has been applied No pics for a while,I have now started the second carving,it may take some time to produce all four
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Aussie048 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Michael I have carved a few Turkeys on Xmas day in my time but would fancy doing it with a rotary tool
Kind Regards
Nigel
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