-
Posts
2,305 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
The ring bolts and the eyebolts for the gun tackle were also added to the upper gun deck, note only thee eyebolts for the gun tackle have been fitted as the eyebolts for the breech ropes will be fitted to the ropes first and then glued on.
The mast partner has also been fitted.
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
Hi All,
The gammoning of the bowsprit was completed with the second set being added. After the knots had dried and were trimmed both sets were given a couple of coats of diluted PVA glue.
The next job will be to make and add the rest of the head rails.
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
The roundhouse entry ports, after they had door handles and hinges fitted, were also fitted and the paint was touched up
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
Hi All,
A quick update on the gammoning of the bowsprit the first set is complete. I used 0.75mm black cord to do the gammoning it was started with a clinch knot at the heel end of the bowsprit and after the knot was dry and trimmed 9 turns of the cord were wrapped around the bowsprit and then 9 frapping turns around the gammoning in the centre, the free end was then seized to one the gammoning turns.
Hopefully the photos may explain it better than I can
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very indeed Jeff,Grant,Janos and Don
The bevel guide was actually off the Proxxon disc sander Don.The idea being,that the angle set was used to sand the ends of the doors to the correct angle and had been checked on the model.The table saw has a similar one(the guide is actually fatter on the saw one),but cutting the ends on the table saw would have risked material breakout on the trailing edge.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to Daniel Dusek in Dusek Ship Kits-news+info
Hi all,
Nigel-I agree, the 3D print is great think. I bought FORM 1+ 3D printer three months back and it is great toy .
Ken-Thanks, I also think that work with resin is much better than usually used white metal casting.
JP-Thanks, I hope too
Don-Thanks for your support, the statenyacht will be released at the end of next year I suppose. I have to finished the prototype model which may take 3-4 months and that it will take about 6 months to prepare instructions for the kit.
Bets regards
Daniel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Daniel Dusek in Dusek Ship Kits-news+info
Wow Daniel,those are exciting planned releases
You will have to have a chat with my friend regarding Trinnidad Here his log on 3D modelling her stern http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1990-stern-gallery-of-santissima-trinidad/page-1
A 3D printed stern of this design included would really raise the bar in the kit world and would build into a mind blowing model
Kind Regards
NIgel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very indeed Jeff,Grant,Janos and Don
The bevel guide was actually off the Proxxon disc sander Don.The idea being,that the angle set was used to sand the ends of the doors to the correct angle and had been checked on the model.The table saw has a similar one(the guide is actually fatter on the saw one),but cutting the ends on the table saw would have risked material breakout on the trailing edge.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed Mark
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from md1400cs in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Dusek Ship Kits-news+info
Wow Daniel,those are exciting planned releases
You will have to have a chat with my friend regarding Trinnidad Here his log on 3D modelling her stern http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1990-stern-gallery-of-santissima-trinidad/page-1
A 3D printed stern of this design included would really raise the bar in the kit world and would build into a mind blowing model
Kind Regards
NIgel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very indeed Jeff,Grant,Janos and Don
The bevel guide was actually off the Proxxon disc sander Don.The idea being,that the angle set was used to sand the ends of the doors to the correct angle and had been checked on the model.The table saw has a similar one(the guide is actually fatter on the saw one),but cutting the ends on the table saw would have risked material breakout on the trailing edge.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to donrobinson in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Great work, never would have thought of using the square from table saw to do that.
Excellent !
-
NMBROOK reacted to gjdale in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Great work Nigel and thanks for showing your technique.
-
NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Hi Nigel,
Very nice work on the doors and thanks for showing how they were made
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from md1400cs in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Part two
Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from tkay11 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Beef Wellington in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Part two
Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed Mark
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from fnick in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Part two
Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.
Part one
After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.
TBC
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Jeff-E in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.
Part one
After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.
TBC
Kind Regards
Nigel