NMBROOK
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NMBROOK got a reaction from md1400cs in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Part two
Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.
Part one
After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.
TBC
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from md1400cs in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed Jparsley,John,Nils and Bob
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from tkay11 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from fnick in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed Jparsley,John,Nils and Bob
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Beef Wellington in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Part two
Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Jeff-E in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.
Part one
After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.
TBC
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Excellent work Bob The treenailing looks great,to be honest,I have used every material for doing these bar fishing line,but I don't think the filler route looses anything to the others unless you are after a structural fixing
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from gjdale in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Part two
Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.
Part one
After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.
TBC
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Excellent work Bob The treenailing looks great,to be honest,I have used every material for doing these bar fishing line,but I don't think the filler route looses anything to the others unless you are after a structural fixing
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Excellent work Bob The treenailing looks great,to be honest,I have used every material for doing these bar fishing line,but I don't think the filler route looses anything to the others unless you are after a structural fixing
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Daniel Dusek in Dusek Ship Kits-news+info
That makes two of us Ken ,I ordered mine on Saturday as well.No plans on starting it for the foreseeable future,however the discount is massive,it would be silly to pass up.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
A beautiful piece of work Nigel.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Back from another summer trip and eager to to get back to Cheerful.
I chose to deviate from the sequence that Chuck and the other Cheerful builders have followed at this point. Rather than doing the wales and the lower planking, I decided to treenail the upper planking. My reasoning was simple -- I hate to do all of the treenailing at once, and this allowed me to break it up. The treenailing was done by the drill and fill method, but I chose to use a more visible filler, rather than the subtle ( and likely more accurate) route taken by Chuck. I must admit that I simply like the look of the more visible treenails better. After completing the treenails, I applied a coat of Wipe-on Poly as a sealer.
Now I will move on to the wales and lower planking.
Bob
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Jeff-E in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
And finally part three
Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.
After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.
Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I have finally fitted the remaining glazing bars in the lower stern windows(yes another five to go above these and numerous ones on the deck bulkheads )
The three on the right are complete,the two on the left have had the bars sanded flat and awaiting another coat of matt poly.
I have now moved on to fitting the balcony floor.Three copper pins were bonded into the edge of the floor and correspond to holes drilled in the transom.The softwood former underneath is temporary,it is purely there to hold the correct camber as I had a small amount of springback when the floor was released from it's jig.The floor has been epoxied to the transom and lower edge of the planking.The protuding sides will be trimmed and sanded flush when the epoxy has cured.This will also release the softwood former which is held with blobs of epoxy at each end.
I am looking forward to the next stage,I had a lightbulb moment this week.I have worked out how to produce decorative paneling in boxwood with an ebony architrave detail.It is based on DrMike's technique for creating these panels,but with my own twist.All will be revealed in due course
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you very much indeed B.E.,Michael and Nick
sadly B.E.,we currently live in a most unpicturesque part of Yorkshire,I hope to be within 'spitting' distance of the 'white horse' if we ever get moved,so that should change
I think one of my biggest influences in the choice of woodtones Nick,is Dr Mike's Rivoli,I am simply in awe of this model and his use of colour
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Part two
Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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