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NMBROOK

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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 28, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from md1400cs in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 27, 2015

Part two

Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 26, 2015

Thank you very much indeed Mark

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from md1400cs in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 27, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from tkay11 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 26, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Beef Wellington in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

Part two

Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.

Part one

After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.

TBC

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Jeff-E in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.

Part one

After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.

TBC

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

Part two

Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from fnick in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.

Part one

After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.

TBC

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from janos in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

Thank you very much indeed Jparsley,John,Nils and Bob

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from gjdale in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

Thank you very much indeed Jparsley,John,Nils and Bob

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Jeff-E in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

Part two

Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.

Part one

After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.

TBC

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED February 20, 2016

Excellent work Bob The treenailing looks great,to be honest,I have used every material for doing these bar fishing line,but I don't think the filler route looses anything to the others unless you are after a structural fixing

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from Jeff-E in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

Part two

Standing the mdf on edge and using some scrap strip as a spacer,the first boxwood stop was glued to the MDF(this ensures it is parallel to the edge).The rest of the fixture was then assembled,the pics are self explanatory,but note the doors are only glued with tiny spots of epoxy at the corners,the boxwood is thoroughly glued to the MDF.
Next the fixture is set on the mill table,the sander guide is used to set the angle so that the grooves running across the doors can be milled.

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from UpstateNY in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 24, 2015

I have successfully completed the two pocket doors that will go either side of the stern balcony.The lightbulb idea worked I have taken MANY pics of the actually quite simple process.To make it easier,it will be in several posts.

Part one

After making a template for the angle(all the panel detail on the stern comprises of parallelograms ) I cut two doors and the top and bottom angle was set on the proxxon disc sander.The blank comprises of 3mm ebony laminated with 0.6mm boxwood veneer.The parts for a fixture for the miller was cut from scrap MDF and boxwwod strip.The MDF was perfectly square and parallel(this is important later on )The guide for the proxxon sander was kept set as this will be used later.Note the only reason the ebony is so thick is that the back will be shaped to mate with the inside of the hull planking.

TBC

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from RichardG in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed August 25, 2015

And finally part three

Using a dremel ball end cutter 1.2mm diameter the grooves were machined between the lines previously marked in several light passes,the total depth being 1.5mm.The fixture was then moved parallel to the table to mill the vertical grooves in the doors.

After a light sand the corners were 'squared' using the tip of a scalpel blade and job done.

Now to make the ebony panels these sit into so they can be fitted on the model

Kind Regards

Nigel
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED August 25, 2015

Excellent work Bob The treenailing looks great,to be honest,I have used every material for doing these bar fishing line,but I don't think the filler route looses anything to the others unless you are after a structural fixing

Kind Regards

Nigel

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NMBROOK

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