bdgiantman2

That book (assuming does get written), combined with the book by Bernard Froliche would be the ultimate guiding sources bundle for all model ship building especially prior to the 1830s when more metal became increasingly in use.

I’d have to make an Autopay account to the swear jar.

On my my my. That is soooo small and soooo tempting. I'd really have to give it a go if it becomes available. The swear jar would get a hefty donation too!

The 3/32 inch scale model of Speedwell could be very tempting, I also have a possible eye on the 1/48 scale model as already provided plans for in the books of the ship.

Another update. Even though I have yet to remake the keel as don't have money right now to buy more wood plus still needing to fix my saw, I have began the shaping of the hawse timbers for my model of Eagle. This will be a long process in making and shaping these pieces more, especially on the insides.  I am planning to be installing 1/32 inch spacers between the frames of the hawse timbers that have yet to be ordered. But this is where I am as another snow day in Denver.

The 3/32 inch scale model of Speedwell could be very tempting, I also have a possible eye on the 1/48 scale model as already provided plans for in the books of the ship.

Just a small update on the progress.  Getting into the stern framing now.   But first I needed to add 3 more aft cant frames under the quarter piece.
 
The cant frames are self explanatory and the same as the others.    Just sand off the char and add them.  But before I added them under the quarter piece I had to glue a small block on the inside of the quarter piece on both sides.   The block is laser cut and matches the shape of the bottom of the quarter piece.   This makes the area thicker which we will need when we fair the inboard side.   This will all be covered up on the inboard side so it wont show.  It will be planked over on the inboard side.
 

The small blocks will be faired along with the inboard frames when we do that much later.  But it is probably a good idea to start that now and do a little preliminary removal of material.  Its just easier to do at this point.   I did it after gluing them in but they could just as easily be shaped before you glue them in.
 

 
Now the stern framing starts.   First up are the fashion pieces.  These are very very complex.   This hull has a square tuck much like the Cheerful.   So to simplify things it will be made in two layers.   Only the first layer will be added at this time.  They are laser cut for you and 5/32" thick.   There are laser etched lines on both sides.   You can see how I faired the shape into it following the etched reference line.   The two ends also need to be tapered slightly.  I am talking very slight tapering to sit against the deadwood and under the wing transom.   The other side of the piece has those etched reference lines.  Just sand in the bevel to match on both ends.  Then give it a test fit.
 


 
I found it easier to test fit these while the hull was upside down.  They will need to be 1/8" away from the stern post as mentioned.   This was easy enough to do.   I just drew a reference line in pencil.  I used a 1/8" wide strip and held it against the stern post and just drew the line on the deadwood.
 

When test fitting these the bottom will sit along the curved edge on the deadwood.   Right along the bearding line.  Try and get a nice clean and tight fit there.   The top end will fit under the bottom of the wing transom.   The aft edge is flush with the same on the wing transom.  Then I faired them along with those last three cant frames I added.  Its all coming together now.  Just a bit more framing to go.   
 
Next up will be that last aft cant frame.  It actually sits against the fashion piece we just added.  This is why that needed to be added first.  Then a small cant filler will be added which essentially finishes up all the hull framing.   After that there are the stern frames and a few odds and ends to finish it all up.
 

 
 
 

Nobody is getting rich selling this stuff unfortunately...but its a living!!!
 
Beats sitting behind a desk though....I prefer sitting in front of a workbench,  LOL.
 
So the quarter pieces are not that easy Greg!!!  Ok yes they are...
 
Basically there are two really not so hard things you must do to this piece before you glue it on the model.
 
First....sand a bevel onto the inboard side.   Not the outboard side with the laser etched reference lines.....the inboard side.   If you bevel the outboard side side the piece will be ruined.
 

Then step 2.....on the outboard side you have to bevel a few parts.   The two tabs that sit against the last aft cant frame.   And then the aft side of the piece.   As shown below.
 

 
Also note the reference marks for your fixed block and where the other aft cant frames will fall along the bottom edge.
 
Then glue it on...thats it.   The two tabs are flush with the outboard face of the cant frames.  This means you will need to fair the outboard side of the hull before you add these.  It wont work if you dont.  At least not as well.
 
Here are photos of both quarter pieces on the model.  They have been faired on the outboard side as well although not completely.   I will wait for those last few aft cant frames.
 

 

 
And I couldnt resist just test fitting the transom piece.  We wont need this for a while but if my design skills and concept didnt work for the hull framing and this didnt fit....then it would be firewood.   But lucky me it fit just perfectly.   The hull has ended up the perfect width and shape.
 
I can finish up the framing with confidence.  
 

LOL!  I've been waiting all day for this comment!

Greg is unhappy with you for turning an extremely difficult area of the model into a "fun" diversion. A lot of innocent boxwood pieces sacrificed their lives in order for me to successfully frame that area. And then there was the errant elbow strike elbow...
 
Seriously, brilliant work Chuck!

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

 

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

 

Alrighty, friends! Needing a break from all the political hubbub and thankfully I have been finding answers. With enormous thanks to Mr. Passaro as well as Greg, I have been doing research involving the cant frames and hawse timbers. Plans of the Eagle originally done by A&M University when Dr. Crisman found the wreck off Lake Champlain clearly show two cant frames (the area circled in red in picture 1, Frames Q and R using the plans from Bill Edgin. And there is spacing where Frame S should be that perfectly makes the third cant frame). I have decided to copy the idea by Mr. Passaro used on his Speedwell blog for the cant frame areas. Then, using a compass,  I was able to get the angle of the frames off the keel (the angled lines done in cyan). Then the dark blue box shapes in picture 3 will be the hawse timbers but will need to redo this incorporating the spacer pieces where the anchor cable openings will be.  And for those of you wondering, the green boxes are following the construction Mr. Passaro used in the Winnie project strengthening the cathead pieces with the forward mast bitt frames. Hopefully very soon will be making sawdust again! Peace ✌️

 

With the deck down in the hold done,I can began building the storage rooms,towards midship the beams are two piece which are milled out then fine tuned with files,not very complicated work to be done but  i ⁹really have to pay attention to where parts of the deck beams cut thru the walls in places.

Just a quick update...all of the aft cant cant frames in this step have been completed.  This includes framing the sill for the aft-most port and the frames there.  Then I just completed the remaining few.  Fairing was done on both sides as well.  But I still have to add the treenails to those aft cant frames.  I will do that first before moving forward to the next step.
 

 

 
There are still a few cant frames left but that will be done in the next step...
 
That will require a new jig along the top of the model for alignment and I must make the wing transom as well.
 
More updates to follow soon.   But its getting there.
 

 
 

I strongly agree with Vossy.  If new to wooden ship modeling, jumping in with scratch builds can be overwhelming.  Check out the topic "New to ship modelling? But what do you build first? " to get an idea of first time builds.  While these first time builds are not all that glamorous, they give a feel for how the wood works and insight into the various techniques.  I respectfully disagree with Gregory about the 16th Century Longboat.  I found that to be more advanced in that you need to be near the top of your game with your planking.  LIttle room for error.
 
    ....but your question was about tools.  Some of the tools I find most valuable are; Dremel or similar rotary tool, #11 Exacto knife or similar surgical scalpel, sand paper/sanding sticks (I use finger nail Emory boards and sandpaper glued to popcicle sticks), wood glue.  Clamps...you can never have too many clamps.  Acquire them as you need them.  Magnification.

Build board (pt.1)
The boards platform was made from a sheet of 1/2" MDF cut to 12”x 42".  For support I added primed 3/4”x 1 1/2” strips underneath. All of the strips where shaved on the table saw in order to establish a straight edge when gluing them to the board. The shorter cross strips were shaved slightly deeper than the two long ones in order to recess them. Clamps were used to hold everything in place while the glue dried overnight.

3/4" Polyester Felt Tape was added to the two long strips to allow for sliding the board on the work table. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01455QMX4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I primed the MDF with a few coats of Krylon colormaxx white primer. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K05584007-COLORmaxx-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B07LFWPFLC The primer was then lightly sanded smooth with a  flat sanding block and some 400 grit sandpaper. The build board was now ready for the plan sheet.
 
I trimmed the plan to a desired dimension, leaving a view of the lower frames on the sheet as a reference. To protect the printed lines I sprayed on some Krylon Workable Fixatif. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01306-Workable-Fixatif-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7U Once I established the positioning I placed some blue masking tape on the board to aid in the alignment of the sheet. I placed a centering tic mark on both the tape and plan sheet. I used Scotch Repositionable Spray Adhesive to adhere the plan to the build board. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Spray-Artists-Adhesive-MMM6065/dp/B00006IFBF My amazing wife helped me to hold this long sheet of paper while we carefully placed it on the board. 


Mike
 

Work continues.   Started on the aft cant frames.
 
The first thing that needed to be done was to add the aft cant frame jig.  This is added the exact same way as the fore cant frame jig.  Glue the small laser cut square under the last cross beam.   Then add the jig.  The jig like all the cross bars are not glued.  They are just taped together.  That works very well.
 
Make sure to line up the jig with your center line thread.  You have the etched reference lines on the cross jigs to do so.   But you will notice I also added the small cant frame strip for our first cant frame.   That is aft cant frame 24. It is the last slot in the jig.  You will need to line up the forward edge with the same mark on your base board plan.  Lining up this jig so your cant frames are even on both sides is very important.  As is making sure all your square frames were perpendicular to the keel and the same height etc, and all follow the center line.  
 
If for any reason you need to tweak this jig or any of the others, I have left some wiggle room.  Do that before taping.  In fact,  if I didnt mention this little tip before,  you can just add a toothpick as a shim on one side to adjust the aft jig until l you are back on the center line and your cant frames all line up with the base board plan.  This is a neat trick you can use with any of the cross bar spacers for the square frames as well.  It works really well to keep you on that center line.  I exaggerated in this photo so you can see how to adjust any of them.
 

Lining up the strip with the baseboard plan below...
 

Then just like the fore cant frames are started working my forward after assembling each cant frame.  They are made in two pieces.  I have added six working my way forward.  But now I will switch directions and start working from the other end of the jig for the next six. More pictures will follow when I get that done.
 
Note how two laser etched lines on that last cant frame 24 face aft.   Shown in red. That is important because we will need those to line up our some pieces later.
 
Also not how the first aft cant frame on the jig I added,  that same number 24...you have to make sure you place it in the correct deadwood slot. 

This is what the hull looks like at the moment.  I will work on the remaining aft cant frames this weekend.  Im getting close to completing all the hull framing.  It wont be long now.
 

 

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

Hello friends. I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a very long time any progress on the ship. To give an update, I have decided to totally remake the keel of this ship as I have broken it a few times unfortunately and am wanting to mimic some of the construction styles that Mr. Passaro is using on his model of Speedwell. Also I did not plan well for doing the groves in the deadwood as my plans show and I have some new thoughts on how to do these. But all is not completely at a standstill for me with my Brig Eagle. Been doing lots of research and figuring out future steps as best as able. For example I was recently able to finally get useful information about interior of Niagara and it appears very similar to what Bill Edgin drew up with a few modifications and I of course want to make a few more.  A friend of mine tried helping me fix my bandsaw last fall and I was trying the saw again only to immediately see the blade fall off again after turning on the saw. 🤬🤬🤬So until I can get the saw fixed again it's going to be difficult for me to make any new progress. Once I get more money coming my way again I want to see about getting a Byrnes tablesaw as many of you keep raving about it in blogs.

First time I have seen this idea for the model display base but I like it and your hatches came out great!

Great progress, Mr. Passaro. Your model of the Speedwell looks amazing thus far, and I am looking forward to seeing much more happening with her.
 
Brian D

Yes that wont work at all.  I will absolutely do so.  Once I put the final touches on the template I will print both and show them.