bdgiantman2

Today we have great weather in Denver, so I happily brought out the scroll-saw and was able to do the rough cutout of first rib for Eagle. The Yellow Alaska Cedar is fun to cut on the scroll-saw. A picture of the rib by itself on a table, and another sitting in the building jig. It still is not fitting right in the space for it, I have more sanding to do to make it fit right.

Between working and doing a lot of research, I have been able to make small amounts of progress on Eagle's construction. Last night I finished the assembly of the first rib of the hull. Naturally, Frame X being the easiest to make. It came out looking rougher than I would like, but for the first rib I know it will be a learning experience. Already have realized two things: first of all, building each layer of ribbing individually (gluing the two halves together after all parts have been assembled together -- and I think Gene was mentioning about this in his own practicum 😧); and that I need to make cleaner cuts as well as tighter joints while gluing. Crazy cold weather hampering being able to bring the power saws outside to use on my small patio right now. Not sure I am wanting to use them indoors, especially over carpeted areas knowing that sawdust will be flying. I live in a condo community, on the second level of my building which is three stories tall. Appreciating all the likes and feedback.
 
Brian D

Is there a reason that the swivel guns have a more rustic/aged look compared to the main long guns?  I can only assume the crack gun crew you have was polishing the main battery and haven't gotten to the swivel guns yet with the polish and grease.

Continuation: Cleats for topgallant lifts and royal lifts 
Mostly it comes differently than one thinks! 
So in this case. While I had thought that binding the filigree cleats to the topmast shrouds would be very difficult, my first attempt showed that it would be relatively easy.
Before I started with the shrouds for this model, I first built a corresponding jig for experimental purposes. This served later among other things also with decisions for attaching the ratlines. And now it served to test how best to attach the cleats to the shrouds.
The trick, if you can call it that at all, is to tie the cleats comfortably to the shrouds from the front, and then simply turn them backwards to the desired position. 

 To be continued ...
 

Great model progress and very high quality skills as usual.  I am assuming that this room that you showed us today is going to be the pump room. What advise would you suggest for someone like me new to using chisels for modeling?? Thank you so much.
 
Brian D.

Actually Brian I believe this is to be the sail room. The ventilation louvers would facilitate air circulation and help dry out stowed sails.

This is the sail locker, not the pump room.
I don't have a lot of experience with chisels, but lately I've been learning to use them and I must say that the feeling is very good, so much so that I prefer to do some work with these hand tools rather than with the milling machine.
The very important thing is to keep the chisels perfectly sharp at all times. and this can be achieved in a variety of ways, some of which are well explained in tutorials on you tube.
In addition, chisels must be of high quality, so it is better to invest a little more money in better tools than to make do with poorer tools that will soon lose their sharpness and ruin our work.
The kit of mini chisels of Russian origin that I bought a few years ago and that you see in the photos is really excellent and helps me a lot in the small joints that you can see in the construction of the decks.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

Cleats for the topgallant lifts and royal lifts 
I almost forgot!
Wasn't there something else with the shrouds? There are a few details I'd better mention now.

The description of the monograph for La Créole itself does not clearly state how the lifts for the topgallant yards and royal yards are to be attached. As far as I could tell from the description, the lifts were attached somewhere in the area of the top. On the original photos of the Paris model of the La Créole, you can clearly see two cleats on each of the topmast shrouds. Until now, I could not clearly identify the ropes used there. However, after some research, my suspicions were confirmed. These are the lifts for the topgallant yards and royal yards.
 

Source: Monograph by J. Boudriot, detail of original model
 
The next step was to clarify the shape and size of these cleats, a total of 3 x 4 pieces, which I derived from the original photograph and drew.
 I made the cleats from service tree. The following pictures show different stages of the production. 



     
      
The last picture shows the result.

 
Attaching these cleats to the topmast shrouds will probably be another small challenge to master.
 

Yes, it’s true. I spent a lot of time on those columns. That said, Chuck’s attention to detail when laser cutting parts really makes all the difference. He lays out the foundation, but the work has to be done beyond that in order to get a satisfying result.
 
Mike

Hey Tom, your model of Niagara is looking really good.
 
Depending on how the playoffs go, the Red Sox are going to have their hands full if compete against the Dodgers in the World Series.  Will have to see how the National League playoffs proceed. I am not a Dodger's fan at all, just to let you know. In fact I will be rooting against the Dodgers any chance I can get.

The chesstrees are made just like the fenders.  No need to show it being glue together.  The middle layer is slightly wider to accommodate a sheave. The one thing I did do was round off the sheave before gluing up the three layers.  It is difficult to see the sheave in the photo but I will try and get a better picture.
 

The boarding ladder is pretty straight forward.  No laser cut parts here.  I made a scraper for the profile....then scraped a strip of boxwood.  Then I used some files and chisels to shape the sides.  There is no silver bullet here.  The best way to make these is to do it by hand like this.  I used a 3/32" x 5/64 strip of boxwood.
 
Here is how I made them on Cheerful and I made these the exact same way.  The profile is a little more fancier however.
 

 
Here is what they look like on the Winnie.  I opted to folow my reconstruction for placement.  It wasnt fun cutting away the molding neatly.  But I managed it.  You can do the same or opt for the way it was done on the contemporary model.  Its up to you.
 

I printed the frieze for the top step on tissue paper.  I used a glue stick to adhere it.  Then I carefully used a toothpick to push the frieze into the recesses etc.  It did require some paint touch up on the sides but I am very happy with the results.
 
Make sure you bevel the back side of each step so the top is flat.  Otherwise the top face of the steps would tilt one way or the other.  I still have the starboard side to do.
 
Here are some photos of the model with the exterior almost completed.  We only have the swivel mounts left after the ladders are done.  I added all the eyebolts shown on the plans which were made from 24 gauge wire.  Swivels will be next once I complete the ladder on the other side.  She's getting there!!!
 



 
 

Hello Friends, and Happy Easter/Resurrection Sunday to all of you.
 
I am finally able to post again on my blog. After a rollercoaster employment situation since the end of last year, I am back on my feet with steady income and been able to splurge a little too. I am back to the Eagle.
 
So I have been working slower than evolution it feels on the rib sections of the Eagle.  I have made the first ribs of the model, it turns out joint Frames 7-8 and not X as had originally thought it was. Placing the frame on the model I see that I need to do more trimming both inside and outside. It was the inside part giving me the most trouble. Also apparently the rib is too thick even though I am using 3/16 thick boards as drawings indicate. In trying to get the insides of the ribs better I have found two issues. First I rigged one of my Dremel units to a router tabletop and tried using it as a spindle sander. Took too little off and wasn't effective. I knew would need something bigger with more bite to it. So after researching I bought a Wen Spindle sander with an angled top. It arrived today and I eagerly tested it. This machine is a BEAST!!  Made substantial progress compared to the Dremel, going to need to trim more with scroll saw first and get closer before I use the Spindle sander again -- I left too much meat on the bones. Also in the meantime I have been construction of several futtock pieces that have yet to have rest of frames glued on.
 
And following some ideas from the Winnie projects, I have ordered some supplies from CraftySailor which should be arriving next week.

Congratulations on both employment and the ship work.   

Hello Friends, and Happy Easter/Resurrection Sunday to all of you.
 
I am finally able to post again on my blog. After a rollercoaster employment situation since the end of last year, I am back on my feet with steady income and been able to splurge a little too. I am back to the Eagle.
 
So I have been working slower than evolution it feels on the rib sections of the Eagle.  I have made the first ribs of the model, it turns out joint Frames 7-8 and not X as had originally thought it was. Placing the frame on the model I see that I need to do more trimming both inside and outside. It was the inside part giving me the most trouble. Also apparently the rib is too thick even though I am using 3/16 thick boards as drawings indicate. In trying to get the insides of the ribs better I have found two issues. First I rigged one of my Dremel units to a router tabletop and tried using it as a spindle sander. Took too little off and wasn't effective. I knew would need something bigger with more bite to it. So after researching I bought a Wen Spindle sander with an angled top. It arrived today and I eagerly tested it. This machine is a BEAST!!  Made substantial progress compared to the Dremel, going to need to trim more with scroll saw first and get closer before I use the Spindle sander again -- I left too much meat on the bones. Also in the meantime I have been construction of several futtock pieces that have yet to have rest of frames glued on.
 
And following some ideas from the Winnie projects, I have ordered some supplies from CraftySailor which should be arriving next week.

Hello Friends, and Happy Easter/Resurrection Sunday to all of you.
 
I am finally able to post again on my blog. After a rollercoaster employment situation since the end of last year, I am back on my feet with steady income and been able to splurge a little too. I am back to the Eagle.
 
So I have been working slower than evolution it feels on the rib sections of the Eagle.  I have made the first ribs of the model, it turns out joint Frames 7-8 and not X as had originally thought it was. Placing the frame on the model I see that I need to do more trimming both inside and outside. It was the inside part giving me the most trouble. Also apparently the rib is too thick even though I am using 3/16 thick boards as drawings indicate. In trying to get the insides of the ribs better I have found two issues. First I rigged one of my Dremel units to a router tabletop and tried using it as a spindle sander. Took too little off and wasn't effective. I knew would need something bigger with more bite to it. So after researching I bought a Wen Spindle sander with an angled top. It arrived today and I eagerly tested it. This machine is a BEAST!!  Made substantial progress compared to the Dremel, going to need to trim more with scroll saw first and get closer before I use the Spindle sander again -- I left too much meat on the bones. Also in the meantime I have been construction of several futtock pieces that have yet to have rest of frames glued on.
 
And following some ideas from the Winnie projects, I have ordered some supplies from CraftySailor which should be arriving next week.

The channels were made and installed next.  These were glued and pinned to the hull.  The covering strip is only temporarily installed.  These also have a carved edge, similar but slightly narrower than the sheer rail.

The deadeyes were turned from swiss pear.  The chains are brass,  The middle link was silver soldered and shaped first.  The toe link and deadeye binding were then installed.  These were shaped and the deadeye installed after they were soldered.  The ironwork was then blackened and given a coat of matte finish.  The preventer plate was cut out from sheet brass.

Next up was making the drift rail and hance.  The hance is a section of rail that forms almost a ninety degree bend as it connects the drift rail with the planksheer.  I tried several times to carve it from a single piece of costelo.  I finally gave up and made it from three laminations, heat bent to shape.  This has the same molded edge as the planksheer.  Below the drift rail is the wider drift molding which terminates in a volute just behind the hance.  We are now up to eight molding profiles.

I decided to paint the rails and their extensions onto the hull, the planksheer and the drift rail.  To prevent getting paint on the hull, the undersurface of these would be painted off the model, the rails installed and then the upper surface and edges painted.  The planksheer offered no difficulty.  Because the curvature of the roughtree rail was gentler, I was able to heat bend a strip of costelo to the required shape.  The photo is after a few coats of very thin artist acrylic paint.  It still needs cleaning up and a coat of finish applied.


 
 

Hello Friends, and Happy Easter/Resurrection Sunday to all of you.
 
I am finally able to post again on my blog. After a rollercoaster employment situation since the end of last year, I am back on my feet with steady income and been able to splurge a little too. I am back to the Eagle.
 
So I have been working slower than evolution it feels on the rib sections of the Eagle.  I have made the first ribs of the model, it turns out joint Frames 7-8 and not X as had originally thought it was. Placing the frame on the model I see that I need to do more trimming both inside and outside. It was the inside part giving me the most trouble. Also apparently the rib is too thick even though I am using 3/16 thick boards as drawings indicate. In trying to get the insides of the ribs better I have found two issues. First I rigged one of my Dremel units to a router tabletop and tried using it as a spindle sander. Took too little off and wasn't effective. I knew would need something bigger with more bite to it. So after researching I bought a Wen Spindle sander with an angled top. It arrived today and I eagerly tested it. This machine is a BEAST!!  Made substantial progress compared to the Dremel, going to need to trim more with scroll saw first and get closer before I use the Spindle sander again -- I left too much meat on the bones. Also in the meantime I have been construction of several futtock pieces that have yet to have rest of frames glued on.
 
And following some ideas from the Winnie projects, I have ordered some supplies from CraftySailor which should be arriving next week.

A snow day here in Denver, so am spending some time doing ship building. Yesterday we had nice weather, so I took the time to cut out the remaining keel pieces of the bow. These are in Boxwood like the rest of the keel. I did not take any pictures of the loose pieces, unfortunately. Then last night I started gluing some of the pieces together, and then attached those to the rest of the keel. There are still two more parts to glue on.  This is how she sits right now. The rib you see is Frame X and is not attached but just sitting in the jig, further aft of where supposed to be. Also the Transom piece sitting above the sternpost is not glued down yet. But I may be attaching two of the taffrail pieces in the near future.  I am waiting on that transom piece until after I can get the rabbet made in about two weeks.
 
Earlier this month I was browsing around on YouTube and happened upon a fascinating documentary about The War of 1812. During the documentary, the narrator was sharing excerpts written by Theodore Roosevelt (pre-presidency, as he was only 23 at the time), who was a history buff especially concerning this war and wrote a book about it still in publication and use today. Roosevelt wrote, "It will always be a source of surprise that the American public should have so glorified Perry's victory over an inferior force, and have paid comparatively little attention to McDonough's victory, which really was won against decided odds in ships, men, and metal.... Lake Erie teaches us the advantage of of having the odds on our side; Lake Champlain, that, even if they are not, skill can counteract them."

Today we have great weather in Denver, so I happily brought out the scroll-saw and was able to do the rough cutout of first rib for Eagle. The Yellow Alaska Cedar is fun to cut on the scroll-saw. A picture of the rib by itself on a table, and another sitting in the building jig. It still is not fitting right in the space for it, I have more sanding to do to make it fit right.

Between working and doing a lot of research, I have been able to make small amounts of progress on Eagle's construction. Last night I finished the assembly of the first rib of the hull. Naturally, Frame X being the easiest to make. It came out looking rougher than I would like, but for the first rib I know it will be a learning experience. Already have realized two things: first of all, building each layer of ribbing individually (gluing the two halves together after all parts have been assembled together -- and I think Gene was mentioning about this in his own practicum 😧); and that I need to make cleaner cuts as well as tighter joints while gluing. Crazy cold weather hampering being able to bring the power saws outside to use on my small patio right now. Not sure I am wanting to use them indoors, especially over carpeted areas knowing that sawdust will be flying. I live in a condo community, on the second level of my building which is three stories tall. Appreciating all the likes and feedback.
 
Brian D

The truth of the matter,  honestly,  is that after I have made my own scale pieces and seeing how small they really are, it highlights all the more just how great a feat it was making all those tiny metal parts and to do so with such accuracy is completely amazing 

Thank you, Mark. I appreciate, buddy. I am learning a lot from this forum, you all are a library on here.

I have been working two jobs lately and so stretched very thin on time to be able to do modeling among my many other adult duties. Thankfully I have been able to do small amounts in very limited progress but it all adds up sooner or later. I have finally indeed gotten my deadwood timbers straightened -  had to soak in water and then place under weights on a flat surface until dried. Now it is attached to the rest of the keel. I still have the stem pieces to cut out as well as finishing the sternposts. Today I was able to get some cutting done. I made the deck transom piece which will be sitting on top of the sternpost, two of the stern frame pieces, as well as the two frame pieces for one of the carronades. I will in no way be able to match the modeling details of some people on here, especially Archjofo, but this will be an interesting undertaking.

It took longer than I was desiring and expecting, but I have finally finished cutting out the top-board of my building jig. As I mentioned in my last post, I removed a big piece out of the middle using a jigsaw and then was forced to slice and whittle away at the groves using my Dremel scroll saw. Still needing to get the blade back onto the wheels of my bandsaw.  Going to glue the top board onto the support pieces overnight and tomorrow I will attempt to drill in the holes for the hex-bolts that will be holding everything steady. Then I will be finishing the remaining pieces of the stem. 

Hello everyone, just a small update.  I think that I have better straighten out the deadwood for Brig Eagle after triple-clamped it to a spare piece I have of half-inch ply.  I will have to keep it clamped down for a while longer, but I think it looks better. Will have to provide a picture of this later.
 
I am continuing to slow make progress on the building board for this project.  After carefully cutting by handsaws a section of desired size, I proceeded to glue a spare copy of the top-view of all frames onto both top piece and bottom piece of the build jig.  A while back someone in the condo complex I live in was throwing away a piece of wood that was 1.5x1.5x72 inches that I helped myself to use for this project. I carefully cut pieces off to the right height needed and then sliced in half using hand saw and bandsaw.  Having a bandsaw can be super helpful but also have quirks. Today I started to carefully cut out the middle sections of the upper board of building jig only to have the blade twist and slide right off the wheels. Also bought a jigsaw from Home Depot which helped some as an alternative but still cuts too rough in comparison to bandsaw.