lagrayjr

Another photos:
 
 

 

 

 

 

.......
 
                              soon with new updates   Rekon54

Hello there,
thanks for the nice comments. That makes me happy.
Original the tholes were made of wrought iron. For the model
I made this in brass.
The last picture shows the sloop in its future position.

 

Ed,I just received your new book this week, absolutely outstanding just as the other two books on the Naiad. Of course, the plans included are extremely detailed and  are the best. I have not had a chance to read the book in its entirety; however, what I found interesting were several new building techniques that I had not thought . These will be helpful with my current build of the Naiad,  which I have just finished all of the framing. Laman.

Hello,
Carl and Greg,
Here are the next attempts .... :D

The nailing I made with holes diameter 0.5 mm. The filling is made of furniture wax.


Before I put the parts in the sloop I have it coated with "Ballenmattierung".

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

Ed,I just received your new book this week, absolutely outstanding just as the other two books on the Naiad. Of course, the plans included are extremely detailed and  are the best. I have not had a chance to read the book in its entirety; however, what I found interesting were several new building techniques that I had not thought . These will be helpful with my current build of the Naiad,  which I have just finished all of the framing. Laman.

Thanks,
your nice remarks are a pleasure again.
Latest photos of the chaloupe:

 

 

 

Ed,I just received your new book this week, absolutely outstanding just as the other two books on the Naiad. Of course, the plans included are extremely detailed and  are the best. I have not had a chance to read the book in its entirety; however, what I found interesting were several new building techniques that I had not thought . These will be helpful with my current build of the Naiad,  which I have just finished all of the framing. Laman.

Hello Dirk,

do not worry, I am not bored ...
 
Hello Joe, Carl and Mark
I am very pleased about your nice comments, thanks!

Here is a small update:

Hello friends.
 
The all remaining frames mounted, aligned and bonded.
Now handwork is called for sanding.
Help in this case, belt-sander, long-neck angle grinder
and various sanding blocks.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  3
 
 

Hello,
thanks for the nice comments.

The finished rudder looks like this.

 

 

BUILDING A BOARD
 
My most recent sub-project has involved constructing a “building board,” essential for accurately aligning the bulkheads with the false keel of my model. The board needs to keep the false keel perfectly straight and perpendicular, while providing a flat surface for gluing the bulkheads at right angles to the keel.
 
I started the board by cutting a 1/4“ groove into a 32" long piece of MDF sheet. The groove is just slightly deeper than the false keel on the model, providing a full view of the rabbet, and fits tightly so that the keel remains perfectly straight.
 

Marking the groove on the MDF sheet. The board is 12" x 32 ".
 

I cut the groove into the board with a table saw. MDF is brittle, so care is needed at this stage. 
 
The stern and stem of the model also needed to be kept perpendicular to the board. To achieve this, I designed two supports, one for the stern and one for the stem, which would slot into the building board groove.  I used a laser cutter to make these from 1/4” MDF sheet; they fit together somewhat like a piece of Ikea furniture.
 

My custom plans for the stem and stern supports. The idea for the interlocking pieces came from children's toys.
 

Cutting the pieces from 1/4 " MDF. My local library provides a 60 watt laser cutter for public
use. 
 

The pieces after cutting.
 

The finished supports (stem on left, stern on right).
 

It's hard to see, but the support has a rail designed to fit into the groove for proper alignment. 
 

The supports were glued into place, and their alignment was double-checked with a square.
 

I lined the groove with painter's masking tape to prevent damage to the model's keel. 
 

I lined the supports with masking tape as well. 
 

The finished building board.
 

Instead of using set screws, which might damage the model, I used rubber bands to secure
the model in place. In practice, the fit was tight enough that rubber bands weren't really
necessary. 
 

The bulkheads fit tightly and relatively squarely, but it was necessary to use a carpenter's square to 
ensure that they were at perfect right angles to the keel. These stainless steel squares from
Lee Valley were perfect for the task.  
 

The second-to-last last bulkhead is put in place. 
 

The completed superstructure. It's hard to see here, but two of the forward stations have
alignment issues at the area of the chock channels and bulwarks and will need to be
sanded and/or modified with  trim.  I double checked the plans, and the errors, around
1.5 mm off, seem to have crept in from my original measurements. These errors weren't
large enough to force me to re-cut the stations. 
 

I'm quite happy with the alignment (the stern looks slightly twisted here, but it's
just a trick caused by the camera angle). 
 

Midships bulkheads at the position of the rabbet.
 

A view of the bottom of the ship. Again, I'm quite pleased with the alignment
(the stem and stern are still little wobbly and will need some filling blocks).
 

Mini-Crozer stands on his deck. It's been a long time. 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects the stern, noting that work is needed on the bearding line.
Though Terror was small by Royal Navy standards, a 102 foot ship was still a
substantial vessel, as this image indicates.
 

Mini-Crozier stands at the Captain's sacred spot on the quarterdeck.  
 
Now that the bulkhead of the model is finally assembled, I can move towards planking it. A significant amount of fairing is necessary, and I hope to finish that shortly. Meanwhile, I've almost completed the "Phillips' Patent Capstan", and I hope to reveal my plans and model here soon. 
 
P.S. If you are interested in some new cabin accommodation plans for the lower deck, please see my blog (in my signature).

I am re posting this from another topic so its easy for folks to find should they need it.
 
Its very difficult to measure rope using any method.  That technique of wrapping it around a dowel is not very good either.  There is too much variation depending on how tightly you wrap it.  It would flatten out the rope and distort it.   It is also hard to get a consistent space next to each revolution around the dowel.   One may be closer than another.  It may be squishing the wrap next to it etc.  If you did it ten times or asked two different people to measure the same rope that way you would never get the same measurement.  It may be close but you would be surprised.
 
Thankfully You would also be surprised how sophisticated our software has become.   I use Corel Draw and Illustrator all of the time.   When you draw a line in either program its thickness is measured in points.  Lucky for us there are many conversion tables and apps that will convert points to inches.....or metric.  Whichever you prefer.
 
If you know that a line you need is .018" and you want to see what that exact thickness or diameter in our case is....then do the conversion.  
 
.018" is equal to 1.296 points.   If you create a line in any of those programs and make it 1.296 points thick.....its pretty darn accurate.  You will know what a .018 size rope should be....
 
Here is a chart I have on my site for folks that need a more visual way to see what these sizes actually look like. 
 
http://www.syrenship...pesizechart.pdf
 
Its pretty darn on the money and I have one close by at all times when I make my rope.  Its leaps and bounds the more accurate way with technology to measure rope accurately.   Also set your printer for the highest quality print job........
 
Maybe when I get some time I will create a new chart which contains even more size variations.  Maybe every .005" or something.  Here is a good inches to points conversion calculator.   Its the one I use.
 
http://www.thecalcul...s-to-inches.php
 
Chuck

Thank you Greg and John.
 
 
I started Scratchbuilding not long after I started the AL kit of HMS Supply and found that the entire kit was not only wrong but contained a lot of garbage parts. That was about 7 years ago. After that I used the hull bulkheads of a Modeller's Shipyard kit of the Norfolk Sloop which I'd bought for my grandson to build (he didn't start it) and Scratchbuilt the rest, including milling my own timber from a chunk of Norfolk Island Pine for all the planking, masts etc.
 
Sure, lots of guys build models as good as or better than mine using just hand tools. It takes a bit longer though, especially when making multiples of the same part which can be "mass produced" on a Mill in next to no time. Others use a drill or Dremel tool to turn parts if they don't have a lathe.
 
Personally, I find it more accurate using the machines. I couldn't do some of the things I do without them.
 
An update on the Flags. I painted some Egyptian Cotton white on one side and let it dry. Then I cut a 5mm wide strip from it to make the Hoist Cloth. I glued half the width to the flag using Industrial Strength Contact Cement.
 

 

 
Next I glued a loop into each end of some 0.20mm line and PVA glued it to the middle of the hoist cloth and let it dry. Finally, I Contact Cemented the 2nd half of the cloth over itself. All that remains is to soak the flags and shape them. This is why I used the Contact - the PVA would have softened and let go :
 

 

 
 Danny

Hi.
Well its the end of this build and its been a nice steady build.
Started in September 2013. with a couple of breaks IE summer holidays. Daughters wedding.
 
A few photos are in order..
 

 
The Enclosure is made from Fire resting poly-carbonate, as its Health and Safety thing.
Top .bottom and back are 12mm plywood.
 

 
There is also a Mirror at the back of the model..Gives it more depth. Doctor Who cheat.
 

 
The Red button is a press to make switch. and holds the power on for 30 seconds.
Lights that are in the Hold and Orlop deck flicker like oil lamps.
 

 
The two Dolphins are carved from Boxwood (not by me) . Local shop sells then cheap.
 

 

 

 
I did not put gravel into the hold in order to keep the weight down.
 

 

 
The drawings are bits that I had lying around.. They cover the plywood nicely.
 

 

 
The tape measure is showing the physical size of the enclosure
 

 
I really appreciate the help and encouragement you people have given me throughout this build.
I would also like to thank my friend Roy for supplying my with the timber for the build.
 
And of course the person who keeps everything running in the house while I have my head buried in the model. Marian.
 
And all the likes... There are soooooo many.
Any questions.. Please ask.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 

Still hammering away...    Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Here's the latest pics.  Starboard side wide wale planking is complete.  Needs final sanding and bit more caulking (  ) of some planks that I didn't quite get fitted right.  Relatively minor fix, in my opinion.  the splotchiness is from wiping it down with water to raise the grain for the final sanding.  An interesting effect is that not all Swiss Pear is the same color.. some is darker than the others.   Interesting.
 
Next comes the narrow planks.  per measurements, I need 28 strakes.  Seven strakes at the stern to the deadwood so I need to take those into account as they are 9" planks on the counter to the deadwood. After that, they can be wider as they run to the garboard.  The bow will need serious tapering and I'm starting to mark everything out.
 
Any tips, oops, or advice appreciated.
 




 

Hello,
to build the sloop for my French corvette I have a lot of research on the Internet. I have seen this many wonderful plans and construction reports of a large long boat. This sloop can carry a 24 pound cannon. With a length of 13 m was used on large ships of the line.
Many of these modelers build this sloop "Chaloupe armee en Guerre de 1834" according to the plans of Gerard Delacroix (Boudriot series) in scale 1:36.
Current construction reports are good studio objects for all the details, just only bigger, like my small sloop for La Créole.
Many of these models are fantastic works that have been produced with absolute precision.

Therefore, I felt the need to compare the two models in terms of size.
This I have done with a picture assembly.
That's interesting?

Danny, great tutorial on clue blocks. Just curious, what is your next build going to be? We are all looking forward to it. Laman

Danny, great tutorial on clue blocks. Just curious, what is your next build going to be? We are all looking forward to it. Laman

Danny, great tutorial on clue blocks. Just curious, what is your next build going to be? We are all looking forward to it. Laman

Hi all,
 
Here's a small "tutorial" on how I make the rather tricky Clue (aka Clew) Blocks. The ones here are scale 9" blocks and are just 4.5mm long in 1:48 scale. I'm also making 8" and 6" blocks using the same techniques.
 
I start by cutting the stock for as many as I need from English Box. I find this the best wood to use for these as it has no grain and is very dense, important features on something this small that requires a number of holes.
 
Next I set the 0.020" kerf blade on the table saw to cut a shallow groove for the sheaves.
 
Then I drill the sheave holes using my mill - saves a lot of time and ensures accuracy, but it can be done using a Dremel or Pin Vise. Here's a pic up to this stage :
 

 
Back to the table saw again, and I cut the various steps required :
 

 

 
Using a very narrow chisel made from an Xacto blade I clean up the holes and round off the shoulders of the "sheaves". This not only improves the look of them but makes the line pass through them more realistically. The two blocks on the right in this pic have been shaped :
 

 
Next I drill the two holes for the strop through the head of the block using a Pin Vise :
 

 
A sanding stick fitted with 240 grit paper is used to shape the head of the block in both planes, and I cut the **** of the block with a sharp Xacto. The sides of the block are rounded with a small flat needle file :
 

 

 
Once detached from the stock I tidy the rest of the block up with the sanding stick, and also cut a notch for the strop (that stops it from slipping off the block later on). Here's the finished article, the coin measures about 19mm in diameter :
 

 

 
I use most of the above techniques for making all my blocks, the only real variation to these is the shaping of the head of the block and the drilling of the two strop holes. On normal blocks I use the table saw to cut a 2nd shallow groove in the stock for the strop.
 
 Danny

Hi,
as previously announced here are the pictures from the removal of the boat shell.
Before removing the shell I've sanded the hull.
Sanding I was doing outdoors.

 
With great excitement and nervousness I loosened the screws.
 
I am satisfied with the result.

 

 

..... continued
 
The "bolts" were the last things to add. I started with two long pieces of wire and soldered them into the holes :
 

 
I cut the inner bolt flush as drilling both holes will be nearly impossible. One pin will suffice to hold the stanchion in position until the epoxy dries :
 

 

 
Finally the cranes were blackened :
 

 

 
 Danny

Karl, Mick, Cog and Greg, thanks for looking in.
Slowly but surely, the planking is completed.
I hope that it is the way I imagine it.