sonicmcdude

Here are few notes about the construction a part which is a very good example for the use of the milling of the holes for the sheaves which is done in 3 steps:
 
The length of the milling cutter being about the half of the thickness, grooves are milled half way
 
A drill bit is use  to break through the part. These holes bored at one end only will serve as references to mill the other half of the thickness
 
The part is then turned 180 degrees and the other half is milled
 
Then the scroll saw which has to cut some angles which are about 1 inch thick needs the appropriate blade. Mainly I use 2 kinds of blades from Olson; one for thin and one for thick cuts. I am not sure about the name but it is about skip-tooth or reverse tooth  . No sanding is required after the cut. The combination of the Hegner scroll saw and the blade allows to cut in straight line with precision and even to cut as thin as paper if required and with 0 vibrations.  
 
I tried to work at different heights on the table and I continue to believe that working at the ‘’good’’ height makes the difference at least it makes the job easier. As an example, here is a picture in Junghans German watch office.  Another advantage for the Jewelers to work on a high table allows them to see their work closely.  

Hello People!
At last something to post on! I could not make some work since June… three months doing nothing but frames and doors for my house. I have been around visiting amazing logs and willing to post something like I am actually doing
.
Someone said once “do not attempt to do all the frames, just do them one by one and raise them”. Well as you can see I went the tough way and now somehow I can see the hull in some way. Now I know I am going to be able at least to make the whole structure.
 
Here are some pics. I did all of them in just one month more or less.
 

 
All the frames ready to put in order.
 

 
Nice and clean...
 

 
Our dinner tonight, Kebabs rolls for all.
 

 
Or maybe ribs...
 
 
NOW the fun thing starts since I have all the frames. Thank you all for the nice words during these months!

Hi friends.
 
 
A. Hold  -  Lagerräume
     9 Magazine and Powder-rooms
        Lager-und Pulverkammer
 
B. Orlop  -  Unterdeck
    12 Bread-rooms
         Brot-Lagerraum
 
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  3 4

Hello friends,
new pictures of the construction ,  BHR model.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  33

Sinan, very nice start...

Hello:
 
Don't know why but for some reason can't get started.
Hear are some pic on how I started the lights on the quarter galleys. 
Soaked the frame for a long time it seemed that the sharp Conner just wouldn't  bend without braking. The frame is 1X1mm, made a jig to press 1X1mm between the two pieces clamped it and the legs. Seemed to work well.
I'm not sure if this is the right way to build the quarter galleys, may be should of spot glued frame in and temp stations to set the frame shape, took it off and built it on a jig then reinstalled the finished product. May still do that as I put my thumb through the port light fitting the other light. 
When installing the Taffarel made big mistake and didn't get the stern rounded enough consequently the angle of the Taffarel extension doesn't match the angle of the lights, hopefully it can be hidden some what or just won't be noticed where it's going. I finely got the stern lights to match and installer that was only the fourth time I think. The pic looks like there uneven but there really not.  
 
Love this learning process
 
TJ
 

Hi Alex,
 
I am very pleased about your nice comment.
 
Here is an update of the report:
 
Completion of the fittings for the carronades.
So now the fittings are manufactured for the carronades. For assembling the brass parts still need to be blacked.
In the following picture you can see almost all the parts to build a Carronade.
 
All parts are now neatly sorted in a plastic box, ready for final assembly. Thus, over 50 items come together for a Carronade. For 20 carronades which means about 1000 parts.

Hi.
Another step done.
A Photo with the ship on my 14 year old lads Wheelchair tray. for Yves.

 
Close up of the frames.

 
The timber cut and ready to put into place.

 
I will colour the timber before fitting (not sure yet on what colour/stain).
 
More as I progress.
Regards Antony.

The firs results



 

Thanks you Chris and Sinan!
 
Two days later...
 

 
The plastic sheets are not covered with varnish now, so they looks just like plastik
 
Alex

What a beautiful work Ed!
 
Every single part is so well explain that in some way is like reading a book in fascicles delivered every single week…
 
I just could not resist to attached some pics from Charles G. David´s book (The Built-Up Ship Model). Has nothing to do with the YA but are quite inspirational pictures. The size of the ship is going to be amazing and fully framed!
 
Best wishes.
 
 
Daniel.
 

 

 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 7 – Stem and False Stem
I decided to do the stem next because I still have some checking to do on the drawings of the sternpost.

The first picture shows the four pieces involved.  They are all sided 16" - same as the keel.



In this picture the gripe and the false stem have already been assembled. Once the pieces were cut out and trimmed to their final shapes, the patterns were removed to permit close fitting of the joint. The two stem pieces in this picture have been cut to “almost” final shape and still have their patterns attached. Once the assembled forward assembly is fit and attached to the keel the stem pieces will be added – lower stem first then upper stem.

The next picture shows the connection to the keel assembly – not yet fit up.



The desired result in fitting this joint is that the false stem adheres to the line on the underlying drawing, and of course, that the joint gripe/keel assembly seams are tight.  The unfinished end of the keel rabbet can be seen in this picture.

The CAD patterns are extremely accurate. On these pieces I cut up to the 1-pixel line before final fitting. I use a disk sander where possible to keep the edges square. The final adjustment of the joint faces was done with a #0 barrette file with many test fitting. Some adjustment is being made in the next picture.

.



In the next picture the back face (port side) of the joint is being checked for fit. The joint will be visible from both sides.



In the next picture the assembly is being glued to the keel while aligned on the drawing. Waxed paper is being used under the glue joints to protect the drawing..



Once the glue has dried and the assembly has been cleaned up, the lower stem is fit into place on the drawing to assure final alignment - as shown below.




The next picture shows the lower stem permanently attached and the upper stem being fitted. Again, patterns have been removed to be able to see the final joint line.




The last picture shows the finished assembly.







The forward edge of the rabbet runs along the joint between the stem and the false stem. Forward of the rabbet the false stem and the gripe taper to a smaller thickness forward – roughly in line with the planking. The rabbet should probably be at least partially cut at this stage.

It is also time to start thinking about bolts.


Ed

Hi,
 
the time for update here. Further work with chennels and chainplates, completting of them. I hope the images are explanable.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The guns are not fixed now.
 
Alex
 

Thank Daniel!
 
The hull was then oiled with linseed oil bellow the main wales:
 


 
Here some images of gratings, hatches, ladders and gun deck framing, is now completed and is ready for planking.
The lower deck is also completed and oiled, the after part is painted black.
These are also some close views of main ladder and other things.
 












 
To be continued...

Best regards

Alexander

Some images from my home made draw plante with treenails 0,6mm for treenailing the hull, and the tools used for:
 


 
And here the hull while treenailing:
 




 
The main wales are painted with acrilic paint:
 


 
To be continued...
 
Best regards
 
Alexander

Pride in the Pacific 1982
 
In late 1976 I got a job as a laborer on a construction site in Baltimore's Inner Harbor.  At the site they were building a Baltimore Clipper schooner named Pride of Baltimore.
Pride under construction in November 1976, just about when I started there.
 
Five years later, on my 21st birthday, I reported on board as Pride's newest crew member.  I spent two months aboard the boat in charge of her guns as she took part in the bicentennial reenactment of the battle of Yorktown.
    Yours truly is at the top right, in the cocked hat.
 
A summary history of the boat is available at my site, as is an album of the few photos taken during my time aboard.
 
In 1982 I acquired a copy of her plans from Thomas Gilmer with the intent to build a sailing model, but I was young, moved around a lot and it just never happened.
 
In November of 2011 I got to seriously thinking about actually building a model of Pride and figuring out what size to make her.  The upper limit was as large, overall, as Constellation, but there was a lower limit also.  I tried scaling her the same as Constellation (1:36), but looking at what she would need in terms of batteries, winches, servos, etc; I didn't see how I could fit the equipment needed to control so complicated a rig.  I decided to make her 1:20 scale, as large as I could and still stuff her into a van or SUV.
 
With her lines scanned and scaled up I printed her stations on paper.  There were glued to 3/8" CDX plywood, cut out, sanded, etc, and stood up on the old building board Constellation was built on.
A work in progress: every item I draw in scale gets added to this plan.
 
 
 
There they stood for nearly a year.  On November 19, 2011 I cut out the keel, mounted it on the forms and began planking.  I learned my lesson on Constellation and fully planked the hull, but I taped the edges of the forms so the planking wouldn't be glued to them, and they could be removed - leaving me with full access to the very limited space.
 
 
The hull was planked in pine strips 1/8 thick and 1/4" wide.  They were glued to each other, but only pinned to the forms.  The pins were akin to half-length straight pins and bent at the slightest look, making planking extremely tedious and hard on the fingers.  I wasn't doing the next one that way.  I also didn't spiel the planks, but just laid them on from the keel up, and the sheer down, leaving that football shaped hole to fill.  The hull being glassed and painted, it wasn't an issue visually, except that it bother's me constantly.  I'm not doing that again either.

 
By Halloween, the hull was planked.

 
The hull was filled, sanded, filled, and sanded some more.  The aft-most form with the counter and transom forms was given a tap with the handle of a screw-driver and came right out.  Soon the other forms followed, leaving the hull open.
 
 

 
The inside was sanded and then  painted with diluted Tightbond III to get into the nooks and crannies of the planking and glue everything up.  It was then given two coats of poly resin.
The stern post was too tall, a sign of advanced planning.  I cut it down with a rotary tool - you'll see why later.
 
The stern and then the sides were fiberglassed with 4 oz cloth.
 
 
  Pride's plan compared to Macedonian's
 
  The concept
 
I restarted the build logs for Constellation and Macedonian that were lost in the crash.  There never was a build log for this model on MSW, but, what the heck, there is now.

..

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 6 – Keel Rabbet and Waterstops
The keel rabbet provided a seat for the garboard strakes – the strakes of bottom planking next to the keel.  These strakes were 9” thick and were bolted through the outside edge into the keel as well as into the frames.  The v-notch of the rabbet on these ships was slightly different than the 60 degree triangle of 18C RN ships.  It was less sharp and deep. 
 
(Note:  Having just finished an 18th Century Royal Navy vessel and knowing there is a large following for these types on the forum, I will try to point out differences in structural design that may be of interest.  To do this I will use the abbreviation "18C RN" for the earlier types.)
 
To form the rabbet,  I used a scraper cut from a piece of stainless plate.  I have a lot of these small pieces lying around and they have been useful for this.  The first picture shows the scraper being roughed out with a jeweler’s saw.
 

 
The picture below shows the final filed out shape of the scraper.  The cutting edge is left square - but with sharp cutting corners on both faces.
 
 
 

 
The scraper is dimensioned to ride along the bottom of the keel.  The cut is finished when the scraper bottoms on the side.  Both these rubbing surfaces were rounded over and smoothed to avoid marring the sides and bottom of the keel.
 
The next picture shows one of the first passes on the keel
 

 
The next picture shows the keel with the finished rabbet.  Actually, I did not go all the way to the sharp edge at this stage.  I can use this cutter later, after the frames are set to finish the rabbet – when that sharp upper corner is more protected.
 
 
 

 
I may have mentioned earlier, that these ships had no rising wood (or hogg) over the keel.  Generally the frames were bolted directly to the keel with long through bolts.  Because of this, waterstops were needed to prevent leakage through the joints in the keel into the hull.  The rising wood effectively blocked this path in the earlier ships.   Although the garboard strakes would be caulked along the rabbet, this did not seal off the keel itself.  To eliminate this leakage, holes were bored through the keel at the inside of the rabbet and plugged with long fir dowels, effectively sealing off the top lip of the scarph.  I decide to install these.
 
The first picture shows the keel being drilled through the rabbet to accept a three inch waterstop cylinder.
 

 
The next picture shows a drawn 3" dowel being test fit.
 

 
These were actually driven in with a touch of wood glue.  The excess was then clipped off and the V of the rabbet formed at the ends with a razor blade.
 
The last picture is one of those close-ups that make me cringe, showing a scarph joint,  the central wedge and the waterstop under the upper lip.  This picture also shows the joint line left using the dark glue.
 

 
 
The slightly flat edge, left – for now - at the top of the rabbet can be seen in this picture.  The picture also gives a pretty good idea of the finish left by the scraper.  The rabbet has not been sanded – nor should it be – to avoid rounding over the corners.
 
These waterstops are a nice little detail.  Of course no one will ever see them without having very good eyesight and knowing where to look.  they went rather quickly, however, so the cost was small.
 
I guess the next work will be either the stem or the stern post.
 
Ed

Breast Beams
 
The aftermost beam on the Forecastle and foremost beam on the Quarterdeck are known as Breast Beams. These are shaped differently to the other beams in that they have a rabbet to accept the ends of the deck planking and a molded spurnwater on the top edge. There is also a decorative molding beneath the outer edge:
 

 
The beam was originally made from heavier stock in one piece to add strength to the edges of the decks. I chose to make them from three pieces - a "normal" beam, the rabbeted top and the molding. When all glued together there is no difference apparent as the joints are hidden.
 
To cut the molding I filed a scraper from a square ended Xacto blade :
 

 

 

 
To attach the moldings I used a High Strength PVA glue named Rapi-Bond which I found recently. This stuff sets almost as fast as thick CA, and has a lot more bond strength than the Fullers Maxbond I've used to date :
 

 
Some pics of the moldings being fitted :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny
the fore

Ask and you shall get, Ben. Two photos of Triton in her case. The case was obtained from Collecting Warehouse ( the link is in Rusty's log). Quick service and a nice product -- thanks, Rusty for the reference.
 
Bob

As indicated earlier today, attached are the final photos of the cross section build.
 
 
This was a really fun build, made even more so by being part of a great group of talented builders and warm, encouraging and helpful friends. As with all builds the end is bittersweet -- nice to be done and looking forward to the next, but sad to part with a "member of the family".
 
This was also a learning experience for me. I learned that it was possible for me to do a framed scratch build with only hand tools, including tools like chisels, which I had never used before. On the other hand, I learned that it is highly unlikely that I will ever attempt a full framed ship -- simply too much time and effort at my age (I might consider another cross section at some point). I'm happy to be looking forward to a return to kitbashing (or kit enhancement as B.E. calls it). Essex is sitting here waiting and I'm starting to figure out how I'll "enhance" it.
 
Thanks again to all who have followed and supported this build.
 
Bob
 
 

In a burst of activity over the last few days, I completed all of the remaining work on the cross section. This included making and installing the gangway brackets, the gangways, the cap rails, the ladders, bits of deck planking for the gangway ladder landings, the skid beams and the tiny slivers of the quarter deck rail.
 
Because of my fear and loathing of working with metal, I made the brackets from wood, with the exception of the skid beam crutches, which are brass. The gangways were done with holly, with boxwood trim. The skid beams are boxwood, as are the ladders. The cap rails were made from laminations of ebony, sanded to create a molded outer edge.
 
The fussiest part of this work was mounting the brackets so that they aligned properly and were level for the installation of the gangway. It required a lot of time and even more bad language.
 
Later today, I will post photos of the fully completed model and my thoughts about the project.
 
Bob

The guns have now been mounted and rigged. The blocks are from Chuck (my last scratch build "cheat"). They are very nice. The rigging was straightforward and presented no problems.
 
Into the home stretch. It's on to the gangways and their supports and then the ladders.
 
Bob

I've done the hatches and bitts. The hatch coamings are made from boxwood strip with lapped ends cut in. The gratings were my first ( but not last) concession to lack of power tools. Although I'm sure that there's a way to cut them by hand, I opted to use Model Expo cherry grating strips.
 
The bitts are also made from boxwood.The bitt pins are laminated strips to create the sheave openings. I've never had much luck cutting slots in solid pieces. The sheaves are slices of walnut dowel. The round portion at the top of the pins was done by hand sanding square boxwood strip. The gallows was cut from boxwood sheet.
 
I also drilled the holes for the eyebolts and ringbolts in the bulwarks and installed the eyebolts at this point. Next up are the guns.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 

The outer hull is now complete with the addition of the molding, trim, fenders and steps. The molding is pear, made of two rounded and laminated pieces, rather than using a scraper on a single piece. The trim piece at the top is a piece of ebony. I chose to do this rather than another pear molding as a matter of artistic license. The fenders are cut from boxwood and sanded to shape. The steps are also boxwood and were filed to shape. Unlike some others, I chose to mount the fenders first and then added the molding and trim in pieces to fit. I just find it easier to get tight fits this way, rather than first mounting the moldings in one piece and trying to notch them perfectly.
 
It's now time to do the hatches, bitts and guns.
 
Bob