sonicmcdude

A milestone has been achieved.  The lower deck structure has been finished.  I have been applying finish to the underside of the beam sets before installing them.  The gap in front of lodging knee 17 in the fourth photo occurred because the assembly is not glued in yet and it shifted.  The last photo shows it better positioned.  I will not put on any upper surface finish until after the decking is installed.  Now on to the mizzen partner.
 

 
    
 

 

Hi,
 
I'm getting back into ship modelling after an enforced break.  One of my first projects before I get too serious is to build a workshop.  Just waiting for a renovation to finish, then will show off the new shed.
 
Until then I'm confined to the dining table, and whilst I'm just starting a 1/350 Titanic, a wooden ship won't be far behind.  Anyway, I did manage to fit my main hand tools into a box that was used for 2 bottles of wine (one of those presentation boxes they sometimes come in).  So, a few small 'drawers' later, here's what I ended up with.  Add a cutting mat and I'm set to build...(see attached pics).
 
Whilst it proves you don't need a full workshop to do this, I certainly won't complain when I have one again 
Regards,
Darren
 
 

Looking very good,I will be looking forward to the planking.    Larry

Hi Sinan,
 
Just catching up with your POB build, very nice and clean work, Sir, she's coming along very nicely 

Hello friends,
Thanks for the nice comments.
Here are some pictures of the current state for manufacturing of carronaden.

 

 

 

 
We'll see you again soon.
 
 
 
 

......
 
 
            rekon54

... placing the deck planking.
 
The planks have been made very exact. Still, each plank needs to be "fine-tuned" in order to fit well (I do not like the word "perfect" since nothing is perfect ).
 
Dražen
 

Thanks Pete, Mark, Paddy, Martin, Bob, Ben and Grant.
 
Thanks Russ, I was hoping the colors would look good and was pleased with the results.
 
Thanks Chris. Sounds like a good way to do them and I’ll try it next time.
 
Here they are the hatches just set in place.
 

 

 
And here I have glued them in place and started the deck planking. I'm continuing to use
Holly planks with black paper for the caulking
 

 
I'm off to continue the planking and will use boxwood for the tree nails like on the lower deck.
 

Hello everyone for the kind words and comments.
 
These are the last pictures of the
LE BONHOMME RICHARD 1779  Part 2.
 
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  24

Finished the bulwarks. I’ve painted the remaining planks of the bulwarks seperately. Covered the contact surfaces with masking tape and handpainted with Humbrol enamel matt paint.  Again used white glue(PVA) for glueing.
Sanded the corners off which needed some touchup afterwards.
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets
Best go into the set and choose slideshow or
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets/72157626433922489/detail/?page=46
 

The final pieces of the rudder itself - I've inserted 52 blackened brass "bolts" into the pintles and also the 19 bolts that go through the main piece and blade to hold them together :
 


 
  Danny

Thanks for looking in again John, Druxey, Adeline, Ben, Allan and Pat.
 
 
Right on the waterline Ben. The way it's been drawn in TFFM leads me to believe it's rebated, though it isn't mentioned in the text.
 
Hi all,
 
There are three Bands around the upper section of the rudder to strengthen it. These were hammered on hot on the real ship and not bolted, although I don't know how they would have done that with the lower one - the rudder is thinner in section at that point than it is at the top. I silver soldered the two top ones and just epoxied the lower one.
 
All the pintles, bands and spectacle plate have been epoxied in place - they will also be "bolted". The epoxy makes a bit of a mess, especially when you make a slip with the toothpick. It's easily cut off after 15 minutes drying time - a lot better than trying to wipe it off when wet ... that makes an even bigger mess   .
 
The hole for the Tiller has also been cut in - this hole tapers from 9" square to 7" square at the aft end - quite a trick to get right. I made the taper on the tiller as well to ensure it will fit later on.
 





 
  Danny

Daniel,
my drawing skills are little off, I've tried a photo tutorial instead. If you need any clarification, just ask. Please bear in mind I'm a novice ropemaker, still learning as I go. The motors are reversible 12v DC type, rotating @ 70rpm. The gearing speeds this up to about 290 rpm.
 

 
I apologise for the clarity of the inserted text, it looked great on the originals, but has not worked out very well here. If you can't make out what's been written, please let me know, I'll translate.
 
Regards,
Grant.
 
 

Ahoy Mates
 
Sorry for the delay, BUT
 
As we all know the ladies can take some time to get ready
 
After much deliberation, testing, posts and some beer, well maybe a lot of beer,  I have decided to let the lady show some skin. Many hours of testing only confirmed that for this build “not staining” would be my best move. After wiping down the hull with mineral spirits I found that this “look” suited my lady better then any other.
 
Thank you all for your patience and help on my build. I would have never reached this point alone, “Really” Thank you, (place bowing emoticon here)
 
Back to the build:
 
Using Buck’s suggestion to make patching dust with finer grade sandpaper I came up with Basswood Patch Mk2. The finer dust was collected and then water added. About five times as much as needed. The dust was then allowed to ‘soak’. After which I stirred in a very small amount of PVA glue. Then I put drops on areas I needed to fill. The surface tension used to keep the mixture in place. It usually took three to four applications to fill a small void. 
 
As for the Sanding gala. I used an eraser as my sanding block. It was one of those moments when you look at something completely unrelated to the task and say, Hummm.
 
The finish so far is one coat of “General Finishes” satin Gel Topcoat wipe on Urethane thinned with mineral spirits. I want to paint the wales black and keel tallow, and then I will put on a few more coats of Poly: Oh yes, and a million more treenails
 
Suggestions, comments welcome and “again” thank you MSW

Ahoy Mates
 
Buck: Always welcome here, I added balsa filler and H2O to that recipe
 
Ben: thanks for all your help
 
Back to the build
 
Well I finally completed “one side” of my hull. The other is not far behind and as I waited for some planks to dry; I decided to sand this side. At first I told myself I would only do a ruff sanding.
 
I did have a few issues. One in the stern another two in the bow. The bow was caused by spiling the wood across the grain. I had this problem while fitting planks too but could and did replace them. Small chunks of wood fell out where the planks met the bow while sanding, in the stern I have no idea how a corner got nicked but it is in my last post pic. I have highlighted them in the pic. I mixed some sawdust, balsa filler, water, and PVA. I was disappointed but also realistic. $#it happens and I am still learning. I thought the repairs came out well but I was shooting for zero filler. Please deduct another two points from the scale card.
 
As for the planking, I thought my plan worked very well. The bow planks took a considerable amount of time to fit but I am proud to say I got both of them on the first try. The mid section followed; the bow and stern closed on different strakes had minimal if any effect here. I did not glue the last two planks in at the same time on the mid section either (as done on the bow and stern).
 
 
As for the finish am really stuck. I am considering either doing a white wash (it will be a tallow white) or just a clear coat in shellac or poly. The shellac would introduce a slight yellow hue and darken the wood it a bit. Clear is easy but not very flattering. I am leaning heavily towards the wash, simply because of the problems I am seeing with stain. Suggestion and comments are welcome here.
 
My staining tests have clearly demonstrated that anything except yellow in very low doses has a very high potential for disaster on basswood. I did have some nice results but consistently was just too a big and issue for me. Even with yellows
 
Thanks for stopping by

I find these to be rather useful, but also danged difficult to control.
 

Michael, very clever design. I like it.
If you have not yet solved the flapping ends, you might consider making a whipping for the last few windings. 
Here is an animated way, but I am sure you are well aware of this already.
http://www.animatedknots.com/commonwhipping/index.php?Categ=ropecare&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Thanks Salty and everyone else that has been following this log, I have enjoyed it immensely and with all your encouragement I have done a lot more than I thought I could! There also seems to be a bit of a motorbike subculture among us modellers as well!
 
Finally it is finished, mounted on small brass pillars and installed in the glass cloche acquired by the admiral.
 
It took about 200 hours.... I am looking forward to doing another!
 
 
Matt
 










 
 

I  use the Proxxon Mini Band Saw for over 7 years and I don't think I would ever change it with a scroll saw. The only weak point I can state is that, having a band saw, you might will need a scroll saw just to make the gratings.
But there is no need to buy one... 
Thx

 
 
 
 

...

The couplings for the motors arrived, everything is assembled. The two parts are separated by about 1.4m. I plan on making them about 2.5 - 3m apart after working out how to make rope of a consistent quality.
The control box circuitry was designed by one of the MSW members (cristikc, I think) several years ago. I have misplaced the diagram, which almost had a disastrous impact. Being an electronic illiterate, I connected the power supply back to front, resulting in a vile smell and wisps of smoke from the original control box. Fortunately, there was no apparent damage, everything still functions.
 

 
All the reading I've done on ropewalks make it seem a relatively simple exercise to produce good quality rope. It took 4 attempts to get the desired result, only to realise the rope was wound in the wrong direction. Getting the next length with the right twist took another 5 attempts. I don't know if it's me, or if all the articles were a little optimistic. Anyway, I think I'm starting to get the hang of this set up, and should have it worked out over the weekend. Pictures of the rope are not as good as hoped.
 

 
Thanks to cristikc(?) for the control circuitry design and Keith (Jack Nastyface), for his input and experience with the mechanical side of things.
 
Grant.
 
 
 
 

Just an update on the build.
 
I replaced the Douglas Fir beams that I had already made and bent to the proper camber with Oak ones. I believe they look a lot better and are stronger. I have cut all of the carlings and ledges and have managed to install the pillars and beams for the lower deck. I have started to work my way across the deck by cutting the joints by hand using an Exacto knife ( thanks to Rusty for the tutorial ). It's a little awkward but it can be done and I think it doesn't look too bad. Not worried about the gaps too much as I will be planking the whole deck.
 
 

After the previous post I decided to make a rope with the ropewalk. First I made a crank because all my K'nex motors were dead and I didn't have any batteries then I made the tailstock and track. The finished rope is 12 strands (72 feet in total) of contractors twine and about 3 feet long.

Hi all... this is my recently started build of the complete model POB of the Triton...here are some pictures...

That is looking good
 
Great idea on the sanding...will have to remember that
 
Also   Happy Birthday