sonicmcdude

..

I’ve started to build the bulwarks on the fore- and aftercastle. To fix the stanchions at correct angles I’ve built two  casings to guide
the structure and fixed these casings temporarily using the holes for the masts. I’ve cut the stanchions from pear strip and drilled the
ends 0,7 mm (diameter of an ordinary pin). Using the guide casing I’ve marked the positions, drilled the deck, and glued the stanchions with CA.
 
Ilhan Gokcay
 
 
 
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For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets
(Best go into the set and choose slideshow)

Nice sanding tool and great tip.  You've done a great job on the Triton and I'm looking forward to seeing more.

Leeetle update.... I almost finish with the outside and inside fairing (You can see the hull on some parts it looks like the creature from Frankenstein because I sand to deep and then I glued some thin strips of wood I think is a boo boo). For rough sanding I use a small disc sander attach on the rotary tool. The small disc is made out a bottle  cap  cut to a disc with oversize sandpaper glued on. I "steal"  this idea from The Matthew project  and is work really good not only for fairing but almost for any sanding. Here are some pictures

Hello,
thank you for your comments, Gyula.
 
There are some pictures illustrating the macking of guns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
So thats it for now, hope you like them.
 

Ahoy Mates
 
 
Sport: There will be treenails galore
 
Martin: I think Hahn has the right idea. Rock beats scissors, looks cover scale
 
Sinan: I find virtual reality a great place to check my ideas.  
 
Back to the build:
 
After many trials and tribulations, I am posting my new procedure on planking for review. My hope is to document it here in this log so when I approach this stage on my next build I have a reference. As I am still learning this version which is now 2.0 will I am sure become 2.1, 2.2, and so forth.
 
First, I roughly cut a plank from stock, at least one bulkhead longer then required. I also do not use the same stock for the following plank on this strake. On future builds I might consider lying out and numbering planks (similar to what is done with tiles) to have some control over the pattern in the hull. Forming a plank longer then needed and cutting it back after bending/shaping it causes it to lay on the hull in a way that better transitions to the following plank in that strake. This was not true for planks first cut to exact length.
 
Next, I place a vertical line at each bulkhead position on the plank. An arrow is added on the plank along with its strake number and the last bulkhead letter. The arrow faces the deck with this side trued using a flat sanding block, done with the plank mounted in the cutter. A slight taper added to this edge to reduce the seam between the next strake. This side is only changed in extreme circumstances such as the narrow width required at bulkhead at Bulkhead “K” and “L” on my current build. Otherwise, it is untouched to provide a known surface for the following strake/plank.
 
The measurements used to mark plank widths on the hull are transcribed (via tic marks) to the plank at the bulkhead locations (vertical lines). I have a cheat sheet. The plank then placed in the plank cutter. After carefully aligning these tick marks, I secure the plank in the cutter; for difficult cuts I position the tick marks at or near the bolt locations to facilitate the bend.  After cut, it is test fitted and this cut side is now sanded, also at an angle to reduce any seam. Due to the curve cut in the plank, this sanding is done by hand with a shorter block. The vertical bulkhead lines create an easy reference to the areas needing additional sanding, preventing the thinning of areas not needing it.
 
Next, the plank goes in the soaking pipe for no less then fifteen minutes. Enough time to cut the next plank, take a break or perform some other task. After soaking, it is affixed to the hull to dry noting the method needed to make the plank comply. This same method being repeated to glue the plank to the hull (in most cases). I prefer sideways pressure to downward. Sideways pressure reduces seams and for most planks is sufficient to hold it in place. A hole is drilled in the excess length; this end pinned to its bulkhead. I have found I can have up to three planks drying on the hull at one time.
 
Once dry the plank is cut to the correct length and checked. This end cut also having a slight angle to reduce any seams. Any additional sanding to keep the plank on the lines is done at this time (the entire hull was marked for every strake) If everything looks good, the plank is glued to the hull. I usually bat about 650 here.
 
This is a slow procedure; but a relaxed and enjoyable one. Each plank treated as its own small project. I only do one strake at a time; doing the strake on the opposite side as planks are soaking or drying on the other side . The bow and stern done first with planks fitted between.
 
You can see by the following pic that Belt “C” is almost complete. We are on the home stretch “Yeah baby”  
 
 
 
 
Comments are most welcome and appreciated

John , Johann, thanks for your kind words.
 
Bob here is a couple of pictures that will hopefully show the way that the blade is clamped.
 
The screws are 4x40 the top one is a regular cap screw the bottom one is a round head cap screw
 
for the top one I drilled a #43 hole and slotted the end with a .010 slotting saw and the bottom one is by having a clearance hole #33 through the brass arm and a piece of 1/4x 1/4 brass threaded with the 4x40 to clamp to the main bar.
 


 

 
Michael

hello
next to the ship I made ​​cannon (bronze material)
Only 8 pieces and make took me a couple of weeks.
All of the cannons are made by me

Go for that plank Sinan!
 
 
Daniel.

Thank you for your comments, Danny and Sjors.
To Danny:  No problem to explain how I create this or that. I usually take some pics (sometimes videos) from the process - it is better to understand the tutorial and description.
 
After two days of careful work i have finished the capstan - it is made according to plans from the book Anatomy of Royal Caroline.

I used wood (nut), card and self-adhesive foils (with wooden and gilded look - for the star on the top). The nail heads are created with thick colour ( gun metal + flat black - mini acrylic paint from Tamiya). For application I use a metal tip from micro-pencil (0,3mm).
 



 

Thanks Janos and Joe .
 
To those other Swan builders (and anyone else for that matter) who intend fitting Guns to their ship I STRONGLY advise that you drill the holes for the Breeching Rope and Port Tackle Eyebolts BEFORE you add too much Upper Deck "furniture". This can get a bit awkward if you don't :
 

 
  Danny

Thank you for sharing your so far beautiful build! keep the pictures coming!

Hello Sinan,
Thanks for your compliment.In the making process of the TRITON, I also refer to a book——Conway‘s Anatomy Of The Ship《The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora》&《The Construction And Fitting Of English Man Of War 1650-1850》.According to the content of these books, I again on the original drawings for processing.This job is very interesting, requires a lot of time to think—The basis of archaeological recovery,Ship construction theory,etc.I am a Chinese, to western shipping history knowledge know very little.So in the process of making is sure to appear many mistakes.As a weekend hobbyist,I tried my best to be the best.
I think that hands-on practice, is the most important prerequisite for success.I think I made it.  

Some time ago I read up on making a ropewalk. The important part is that the three or four threads making up the rope have to be spun independently. It required three sets of gears.
 
Along comes my grandson and his KNEX ‘tool box’. This toy is great for youngsters who have some interest in building things. It is a modern version of the ‘erecto set’ I used to have. I scratched my head and decided to use the various gears and shafts to build my ropewalk.  
The pictures below probably explain the details better than I can in words.

 
 
The end to the left is the sled which has to be able to slide in the track. A string with the grey pulley has some weights hanging down to keep an even tension. Notice a little crank at one end. That was quickly replaced with an electric hand drill. Likewise another hand drill spun the other end.
This worked fine and I made lots of rope.
 
The problem was, however, that I have to be able to turn both ends as I am making rope. I would give one end a few spins, stop and go to the other end. One reason they call this a ‘rope walk’, I guess. Sometimes my admiral would help me, but she is not always available. So back to the KNEX tool box.
 
 
I jury rigged one end with a large and smaller gear driven by a variable speed hand drill. Notice the twister tie on the trigger. Now I can ‘control’ the speed, use a switch at the other end to operate the drill while I was holding a hand drill at the far end.
Still not good enough. KNIEX has several types of electric motors. I mounted one on top of the moving sled, hooked it up with another set of gears.
 
 

 
Now I stand back and watch the action without touching anything except the switches. Besides, the results are much better with a more uniform twist all along the eight foot length of rope.

Thank you so much for your kind words.
 
Popeye, That’s a first for me. Another neat design by Chuck.
 
Andy I know you can do it!
 
Augie, The plans are the best I’ve ever seen but it’s Chucks design and
outstanding instructions that put it way over the top.
 
John, It’s always nice to hear from you. Thanks
 
Daniel, The wood is Holly and it simulates white paint really nice. Thanks.
 
Well we have completed our trip down memory lane. It was a fun one.
 
Thanks again to all of you who shared it with me.
 
Here are some pictures of the finished model.
 
Cheers!  
 
 

Thank you all so very much. This walk with you down memory
lane has been a lot of fun.
 
Here are the ships boats.
 
 

Thanks russ will go back aln look at the keel drawing.
 
Thank you Sinan, Perhaps you will be the one person that will get me through the build!