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Philg88

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Everything posted by Philg88

  1. Thanks Keith, Your use of the words "cut and shut" is much more elegant than my "bodged" It would of course help if the instructions were more detailed ... or the drawings were better .. or there were actual photos ... Cheers, Philip
  2. Planking strips and part of the rear gallery installed as well as the nine LED's in the stern cabins. There were a few places where the parts didn't fit together exactly but a bit of bodging sorted things out.
  3. Nice job with the hammock cranes, Boyd. You'll soon be on to the masts and rigging then she'll finally be done ... Cheers, Philip
  4. Small update as the Victory seems to be taking up most of my time at the moment. I connected the paddlewheels and made the small posts that carry the railings at the stern. These are 3x3x14mm and were drilled 5 mm with a 0.7 mm diameter drill then a snipped up off tack was CAed in the hole. These posts are not mentioned in the instructions or the parts list, which is a bit naughty of AL. However, they do appear in the instruction booklet and on the supplied drawings if you look very closely.
  5. Nice piece of research Izzy,. The other bonus is of course that you can drink what's left over of your blackening solution. Cheers, Philip
  6. Planked the now split quarterdeck, leaving spaces for the planks that will mate with the waist section once installed after hull planking and coppering. Mounted the LED's for the two cabins on the end of some brass rod and cut out a bit of the framing so that the light will shine up through the skylight. I have also installed the rest of the wiring for the stern cabins so it looks a bit like Spaghetti Junction in there. Poop deck also now installed ready for planking ...
  7. This is an excellent series of posts, Robert, thank you. I will be using them as a blueprint when I arrive at the coppering stage on my Vic. Cheers, Philip
  8. Finally finished the quarterdeck cabins! The window bars were made by rebating 0.5.mm styrene strips into the face of the bulkhead, painting them walnut brown then adding a layer of 0.6mm walnut veneer with a cut out for the window. Next, another layer of veneer with holes cut out around the edges of the panels. Finally, small infill pieces were glues into the centre of the holes to give the panel effects. I only did the dual layer veneer for the front bullheads as it's an incredibly fiddly and time consuming task. Besides, the others will be largely hidden once the binnacle, mast and ship's wheel are installed. I also went ahead and cut out the quarterdeck waist to maintain access to the upper deck - so far so good and the cut out pieces slot back in very neatly with no distortion.
  9. Support posts installed on the first deck and the third deck planked, varnished and fitted. Don't trust the dimensions given for the deck posts in the parts list - I found it best to measure and cut each one individually. It's much easier to fit the triangular fill pieces with the ship flipped upside down.
  10. Flickering LED Tea Lights These are ideal for simulating candle/lamp light in period ship builds. They are cheap (I picked up this box of 12 for £2.99 on Amazon) and have the advantage that you get the flicker effect from the LED itself rather than via a complex and expensive external circuit. Once taken to pieces, which is trivial, the yellow LED can be desoldered or snipped out and used like any other 2.2V/15 Ma LED in a lighting circuit. As a bonus you get a miniature switch and three AG13 1.5v batteries with each light.
  11. Thanks Boyd. Although I love the detailed work on this build, I am trying to tear myself away to get on with the quarterdeck cabins for the Victory - those will have some really nice details. Watch that space! Cheers, Philip
  12. Hey Boyd, we missed you! Glad you're back to show us more shining examples of the model shipbuilder's art. Cheers, Philip
  13. Nice work Keith. I was planning to use CA for my coppering so I'll be interested to see how you get on with the dolls house tape and may well follow your lead. Cheers, Philip
  14. Thanks for the kind words Robert. The decking is all down to the fishing line - crisp lines, doesn't fray and is easy to cut at 90 degrees. Well worth the one month wait for shipping from China for just short of two and a half quid inc p&p. Search "0.45mm Black Monofilament Cable Spool 100m Fishing Line" on Amazon if you want to get hold of some. Cheers, Philip
  15. I was planning to make my own plates but your sterling work has me pondering - I don't think there should be too much of an issue using 1:72 parts on a 1:75 build but did these come with the kit or are they the Amati ones from CMB? Cheers, Philip
  16. Thanks Rick. I like Billing kits too, it's the documentation that leaves a lot to be desired. Fortunately, there is so much reference material out there for the Vic it isn't really an issue. I also had a warp problem at the stern of this build, which I fixed by gluing in a 30 x 30mm strut between two of the rear bulkheads that was cut a couple of mm too long to force the frame back into shape. That seems to have fixed it. Cheers, Philip
  17. Stairs installed and second deck lighting installed and operational. The construction and fitting of the stairs seems to be the trickiest part of this build (so far!)
  18. There is a colour chart for the Victory at the end of this document http://www.billingboats.com/instructions/Modeling%20Hints%20EN.pdf which cross references to the diagram at the end of this document http://www.billingboats.com/instructions/BB498%20HMS%20Victory_Instruction.pdf Same ship, different kit but the colours are the same Cheers, Philip
  19. Gratings installed along with the stairs. Precut gratings were glued to 1mm plasticard to raise them above the level of the yet to be fitted shot garlands. Access holes were lined with 0.7 x 5mm lime (subsequently painted walnut brown). Stair balustrades were 14mm (just short of 1 meter at scale) and cut from a toothpick, drilled with a 0.5 mm hole through which was inserted plain hemp thread of the same dimension. The fixing end was filed flat and glued with CA at 45 degrees at the bottom of each flight.
  20. I agree. What I've decided to do is to cut out the waist sections of the quarterdeck, which will preserve access to the upper deck. The cut lines are shown as red dotted lines in the picture while the green squares are 4mm plywood tabs glued to the underside of the planked front and rear sections that are then glued to the framework. Planking, coppering etc can then proceed and once finished the cut out sections can be glued in and planked. Sound like a plan to you or an instance of congenital insanity? Philip
  21. Ha ha! Could be either! What I'm not looking forward to is trying to fit the cannons on the upper deck once the quarterdeck is glued in place. With the restricted access it will be hard to rig the cannons but fitting them now means that they have to be prealigned with the gunports and be at risk from damage during planking etc. Decisions decisions ... Cheers, Philip
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