Angarfather

Hello guys!
 
The summer 2018 was to warm to stay in the dockyard for modeling. It was a good time for barbecue, swimming and lazing around with old friends sitting in the garden enjoying an ice-cold beer. And last but not least there were to wunderfull journeys together with my admiral to the Lofoten islands in Norway and the Møn Island in Danmark.
 
In the last two weeks the planking was done. Here are some pics of the Golden Hind today.
 
 

 
 
 


 

 
 
Best regards 
 
Angarfather
 
 
 

Hello guys!
 
The summer 2018 was to warm to stay in the dockyard for modeling. It was a good time for barbecue, swimming and lazing around with old friends sitting in the garden enjoying an ice-cold beer. And last but not least there were to wunderfull journeys together with my admiral to the Lofoten islands in Norway and the Møn Island in Danmark.
 
In the last two weeks the planking was done. Here are some pics of the Golden Hind today.
 
 

 
 
 


 

 
 
Best regards 
 
Angarfather
 
 
 

The "netting" in the photo above is a good example of what is often encountered in kits: rigging that doesn't work. When examining it, "think like a sailor." What conceivable mechanical purpose could such a thing ever serve. At the end of the day, a single peak halyard would serve as well. There is no way to support weight distributed across the length of the spar from a single halyard unless there are blocks there which equalize the strain on the spar. It's obvious that people who draw plans like the one described know nothing about their subject, save perhaps their inaccurately copying a picture they saw in a book somewhere. Your "good eye" and common sense spotted this one straightaway.

Here is a photo of lateen rigging on my Golden Hind.

Aye, Sjors!
 
Congratulation to the finishing of this marvelous model!  
 
And yes, she is a real beauty! 
 
Best regards !
 
Hartmut

Welcome aboard, thibaultron, amateur and Jack. 
 
Jan: no interior, waterscrew or wheel. For my first garden windmill that is way over my head and the plans don't call for that. Will be looking for something like that in my next mill.
Thank you for the pictures of the different windmills. 
 
I plan to add the cloth on the frames. Joanne sewing store has nice heavy brown cloth. I saw that when I bought the sail cloth for the Utrecht.
This or next week I will get the 'outdoor' plywood in several thicknesses. I have created all the templates on heavy cardboard, so it is time to start it. 
 
I completed the two windows and doors and casements for the items. Still needs to be primed, painted and several coats of lacquer.  
 
The acrylic colors I am using are: titanium white, van Dyk green, medium cadmium red, dark cadmium red, cobalt blue, Mars black, yellow ochre, and orange. (some of the colors are the same as the Utrecht).  The instructions also call for chocolate brown powder. 
Once I get to the items that need painting, I will mention the color I am using. 
 
This project will be slow going as I am also building a Boyer, another scratch boat and spring, summer and fall I spent a lot of time outside. 
Marcus 
 

Besides building ships, I build windmills as well. This eight sided drainage windmill is a replica of one that is still in existence. When my father retired from the Dutch foreign service he worked in this mill as an accounting manager and gave me the plans of this garden windmill. 
 
Dimensions:
Roof height 28-1/2"
Max. Height 48-1/2
 
The plans, dimensions and how to build it are all in Dutch. So first I took all the measurements and recalculated them in inches so I know how much wood to purchase. Once I have all the wood I can go back to mm. 
The axel and other metal parts for the vanes I searched on Google, got a picture and recognized what it was so I know what to ask for in the store and I know my plumbing lingo. 
This goes for some of the wood as well. 
In Dutch M18, stands for multiplex watervast and the 18 is the thickness of the wood in mm. So in English the M is plywood for outdoors and 18 is about 3/4" thick. Did this with all the M's. Other wood involved is 1/8" Baltic birch and hardwood (any type). The outdoor plywood I can get at a big box store. I have plenty of hardwood in all sizes. 
Other parts are copper and aluminum tubing,  outdoor glue, tile glue to imitate the straw sides, glossy paint, primer, acrylic paints, etc. Waterproofing I am also using a spray can with that foam in it and lots of lacquer. 
 
Xeroxed two copies of the plans and started gluing templates on stiff cardboard and cut them out. 
 
Also cut out the 2 doors and 2 windows. Instead of using glass for the windows I'll use plexiglass. These will be painted van Dyk green. 
 
Marcus 

Update :
 
all 6 shrouds of the main mast are on, together with the 6 haul lines for tensioning the tackles, these are now the only lines oft the main mast standing rigging.
Note all the toggle connections ( as shown in Amati plan)
 
Nils
 

some of the rigging members
 

 
 

all belaying points are exactly in the foreseen place
 

the rounded spacer lugs are necessary to give the yard sufficiant movability and clearance to the mast
 
 

Update :
 
started the main mast rigging today. New to me are the toggle conections in combination with the violin block tackles of the shrouds. Even the shroud fastening to the bulwark is made with a sticked through loop and a toggle stick on the outside bulwark. There will be six violin block tackles for the main mast. 
This ship bears no ratlines with the shrouds, as the sails are operated ( the large yard) and controlled from deck.....
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Update :
 
for the mainmast I made a preliminary dummy mast-top to see how the shrouds and stays will be lead, and how it would look like.  Some sufficiant clearance to the mast is required due to the thickness of the mighty lateen yard, and hoisting it up to the top position. The main mast begins with 10mm square through the deck and reduces to appr. 8mm octagonal in section at the top. A parral set will hold the yard close to the mast. The mast-top again is 10mm square and fitted with brass rollers, for operating the falls
 
For the bottom boom of the mizzen mast sail support, I`ve fitted a dummy to check out the angle and alignment. I `ve been thinking of adding a light sun shade canvas and attaching some additional spars to the appropriate framing there
 
the bow sprit  is from 6mm square and reduces to appr. 4,5 mm round at the end. It is resting on two spacer lugs giving clearance to the figure head, and tied down with two rope ends......
 
Nils

arrangement bow sprit
 

 
 

Dummy mast top

dummy boom for tying the mizzen sail bottom line, and frame work (perhaps for sun protection canvas, together with some spars)
 

 
 
 

the decoration of the aft transom plate is held quite simple and will not be overloaded with additional decore.....
 
 

Aye, Mates!
 
Many thanks for your kind words and all the likes.
 
The  last weeks was not so much time for modelling the Golden Hind. There had been many interesting job. Thats ok. Here are some pics from the last days.
To finsh the wales in the bow I first did mount the upper and the lower wale. After this I use spacer blocks to mount the bow part of the wale in the middle 

The last  wale piece

 
 

Next step was planking the space between the two lower wales and the stern.
 

 
 

 

 
Cheers!  Hartmut
 

Aye, Mates!
 
Many thanks for your kind words and all the likes.
 
The  last weeks was not so much time for modelling the Golden Hind. There had been many interesting job. Thats ok. Here are some pics from the last days.
To finsh the wales in the bow I first did mount the upper and the lower wale. After this I use spacer blocks to mount the bow part of the wale in the middle 

The last  wale piece

 
 

Next step was planking the space between the two lower wales and the stern.
 

 
 

 

 
Cheers!  Hartmut
 

Aye, Mates!
 
Many thanks for your kind words and all the likes.
 
The  last weeks was not so much time for modelling the Golden Hind. There had been many interesting job. Thats ok. Here are some pics from the last days.
To finsh the wales in the bow I first did mount the upper and the lower wale. After this I use spacer blocks to mount the bow part of the wale in the middle 

The last  wale piece

 
 

Next step was planking the space between the two lower wales and the stern.
 

 
 

 

 
Cheers!  Hartmut
 

Aye, Mates!
 
Many thanks for your kind words and all the likes.
 
The  last weeks was not so much time for modelling the Golden Hind. There had been many interesting job. Thats ok. Here are some pics from the last days.
To finsh the wales in the bow I first did mount the upper and the lower wale. After this I use spacer blocks to mount the bow part of the wale in the middle 

The last  wale piece

 
 

Next step was planking the space between the two lower wales and the stern.
 

 
 

 

 
Cheers!  Hartmut
 

Aye, Mates!
 
Many thanks for your kind words and all the likes.
 
The  last weeks was not so much time for modelling the Golden Hind. There had been many interesting job. Thats ok. Here are some pics from the last days.
To finsh the wales in the bow I first did mount the upper and the lower wale. After this I use spacer blocks to mount the bow part of the wale in the middle 

The last  wale piece

 
 

Next step was planking the space between the two lower wales and the stern.
 

 
 

 

 
Cheers!  Hartmut
 

Aye, Mates!
 
Many thanks for your kind words and all the likes.
 
The  last weeks was not so much time for modelling the Golden Hind. There had been many interesting job. Thats ok. Here are some pics from the last days.
To finsh the wales in the bow I first did mount the upper and the lower wale. After this I use spacer blocks to mount the bow part of the wale in the middle 

The last  wale piece

 
 

Next step was planking the space between the two lower wales and the stern.
 

 
 

 

 
Cheers!  Hartmut
 

Thanks, guys for your  kind compliments!
 
Next steps was to make the keel, the stemson and the bob stay piece of the head. I have made the pieces from mahogany, planed with the thickness planer.
 




Next I make and bring in the walls.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 

Aye, Mates,
 
many thanks for your kind interest in my new project.
 
I am building the hull in an unusual way. Instead of a first planking I glue in plywood between the bulkheads. Than I had to sand it into its shape. Here are some pics from this way.







This construction results in a very stable hull. Next. I'll plan the material for the wales, the keel and the deck beams. I still have a few pieces of mahagony that will work well for that. The planks I will make from pear.That can look pretty good together.
 
Cheers  Angarvater

Thanks, guys for your  kind compliments!
 
Next steps was to make the keel, the stemson and the bob stay piece of the head. I have made the pieces from mahogany, planed with the thickness planer.
 




Next I make and bring in the walls.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 

update :
 
now all guns rigged and in position....
 
Nils
 

the first 3 stb. guns are retracted for cleaning and reloading, the last 4 stb. guns with barrels through the gun ports, all port guns secured with closed gun ports
 

 
 

 
 

Hello Nils.
 
fantastic work, 
 
I think the last picture of the main deck is particulary impressive. It makes it clear to me what dangerous weapon systems These ship had been.
 
Cheers
 
Hartmut

Thanks, guys for your  kind compliments!
 
Next steps was to make the keel, the stemson and the bob stay piece of the head. I have made the pieces from mahogany, planed with the thickness planer.
 




Next I make and bring in the walls.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 

Aye, Mates,
 
many thanks for your kind interest in my new project.
 
I am building the hull in an unusual way. Instead of a first planking I glue in plywood between the bulkheads. Than I had to sand it into its shape. Here are some pics from this way.







This construction results in a very stable hull. Next. I'll plan the material for the wales, the keel and the deck beams. I still have a few pieces of mahagony that will work well for that. The planks I will make from pear.That can look pretty good together.
 
Cheers  Angarvater

I have started the next project, an elizabethanian galleon.
I use some plans I did find in two old german modeling books, Mondfeld, Historische Schiffsmodelle, a german classic from the early 70., and Stoeckel,Risse von Schiffen des 16. und 17. Jahrhunderts. Both authors showed very similar plans of an elizabethanian galleon, named Golden Hind or ex Pelican. It may be a model of Drakes Golden Hind. How Golden Hind looked exactly is unclear. But I like the plans, and they also seems quite right for the type Galeone of the english sailors in the time of queen Elizabeth Tudor.
 
Fist step was to modify the slipway. For the aligning of the frames on the keel plate I use a cross line laser
 

The plans
 



 
The bulkheads
 

 
Mounting of the bulkheads on the keel plate
 

 

 

 
The shipyard guard (named Michel ) after work
 

cheers!  Hartmut

Thanks, guys for your  kind compliments!
 
Next steps was to make the keel, the stemson and the bob stay piece of the head. I have made the pieces from mahogany, planed with the thickness planer.
 




Next I make and bring in the walls.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut