UpstateNY

Hi Augie,
 
Just my 2c to say she is looking just wonderful. I love the way these wider angle shots pull the whole model together somehow.
 
I also really like the alternation of the open decking fore and aft....a very neat detail!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hi Augie,
 
Just my 2c to say she is looking just wonderful. I love the way these wider angle shots pull the whole model together somehow.
 
I also really like the alternation of the open decking fore and aft....a very neat detail!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

The planking on the foredeck has been completed with the addition of the treenails (drill and fill method) and the finish applied.  The belfrey and it's railing have also been completed.  I left this mostly in natural finish to complement the similar railing on the quarterdeck.  Here are a couple of views:
 

 

 

 
Now it's easy to see the alternating open decking areas fore/aft.
 
Next shall be the fabrication/installation of some head timbers and the catheads.  The cats are quite large and require some 'surgery' to install so I'll be moving slowly ---- only get one shot at this.  Cutting slots in the finished hull is not my forte.
 
 
 
 

Hi All,
 
Spent the last few days redoing the ships boat to make it about 50% larger. I used the same method to build it as the first version except I changed up the design a bit to accommodate a larger crew and add some side rails. I also made a larger platform and then took a try at making the mast, yard and oars from some toothpicks. Just have to remove some dust I just noticed in the pictures!
 
Overall I am pretty happy with how this version turned out and thanks to all for helping me   !
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 

Hi All,
 
Thanks for the more than kind words guys....making this little boat was a lot of fun.
 
So to follow up on Augie's point, I made up a simple base today. I think it adds a nice detail and help the boat fit into the rest of the deck furniture. Still mulling over if it needs to be a bit larger but I think it looks better.
 
Inputs welcome, as even if consensus is it should be larger...no worries. I've figured out I can make some davits and hang this boat off the stern to add another neat detail. 
 
Cheers, 
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

Hi All,
 
Made my first attempt to scratch make the ships boat. Thanks to Igor for sharing his methods in his SIB scratch build Lena log.
 
Floor of the boat was made from some walnut strip and shaped. Square walnut strip was used to make the stern, forward and center storage lockers and 1x5mm walnut strip to form the bow. These were faired to the shape of the hull and also acted as the planking supports.  I used some left over sapelle strips to plank the hull, spilling them slightly to get a decent fit.  
 
End result is not exactly the same as the reference I posted above, but overall pretty happy at my first attempt. I am wondering from the pictures on the deck if it is actually a bit small.  May take another crack at this and make it a bit bigger by perhaps by 1cm in length and 0.5mm or so in beam.
 
Thanks again for the comments, likes and for reading!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi All,
 
Spent the last few days redoing the ships boat to make it about 50% larger. I used the same method to build it as the first version except I changed up the design a bit to accommodate a larger crew and add some side rails. I also made a larger platform and then took a try at making the mast, yard and oars from some toothpicks. Just have to remove some dust I just noticed in the pictures!
 
Overall I am pretty happy with how this version turned out and thanks to all for helping me   !
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 

looks great Nigel. Definitely an upgrade to the first edition of the boat. Nice work with the oars too - must have used really fine sandpaper to get so smooth.

Thanks for your compliments! I found a brass wire used for beading that is stronger than the blackened copper wire. However, it must be slightly stretched before using. One end is held by a vise while the other end is slightly pulled to stretch and straighten.
This stiffened brass wire is then formed around the block. First, I formed a "U" the width of the block using needle nose pliers, slipping the block into the "U" trapping a line if necessary and then gluing with CA before twisting close. As twist is formed when close to the block there will be a triangular opening formed; grip twist with pliers and carefully press the twist to close the triangular gap against the block.   
 

 
I moved on to the rigging of the yards and after a couple of futile attempts with the .012" unruly rope I reverted to and airplane technique I used for steel wiring. I cut lengths needed and suspended them with pins into the edge of workbench and weighted the free end with a small spring clamp and added 60% white glue/40% water and soaked the rope using a small paint brush and rubbing gently with fingers to evenly distribute the mixture; I then added more glue worked it in with fingers. Once soaked two more small spring clamps were added to the first for additional weight and slight stretching. Allowed to dry overnight.
The ends were inserted into the loops from the end of the yard towards the middle and seized at the appropriate jack stay. Curves were then carefully formed and attachment points carefully crimped with the edge of pliers for a crisp joint. Curves the repeated to the end and the end seized with a clove hitch.

 
Here the course yard sling has been added at the center point and checked for balance while hanging. The lashing is between the two thimbles; I selected brown as indicated on the replica ship. 

 
I will now address the rest of the yards working from the deck up and adding any blocks or other details prior to adding the yards to the masts.
 
 
 

Thanks Sal, Bob and Per.
 
 
I used furniture wax on the wooden plug, and glued each plank by wiping the glue over the seam instead of trying to glue the edge.
 
To prevent the hull from spreading while fitting the ribs I made a jig. I had that problem with my Cutter - this will do the job nicely :
 

 

 
Here's a tip for edge sanding very small or thin planks - another jig :
 

 
  Danny

Hi All,
 
Spent the last few days redoing the ships boat to make it about 50% larger. I used the same method to build it as the first version except I changed up the design a bit to accommodate a larger crew and add some side rails. I also made a larger platform and then took a try at making the mast, yard and oars from some toothpicks. Just have to remove some dust I just noticed in the pictures!
 
Overall I am pretty happy with how this version turned out and thanks to all for helping me   !
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 

Hi All,
 
Thanks for the more than kind words guys....making this little boat was a lot of fun.
 
So to follow up on Augie's point, I made up a simple base today. I think it adds a nice detail and help the boat fit into the rest of the deck furniture. Still mulling over if it needs to be a bit larger but I think it looks better.
 
Inputs welcome, as even if consensus is it should be larger...no worries. I've figured out I can make some davits and hang this boat off the stern to add another neat detail. 
 
Cheers, 
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

Hi All,
 
Spent the last few days redoing the ships boat to make it about 50% larger. I used the same method to build it as the first version except I changed up the design a bit to accommodate a larger crew and add some side rails. I also made a larger platform and then took a try at making the mast, yard and oars from some toothpicks. Just have to remove some dust I just noticed in the pictures!
 
Overall I am pretty happy with how this version turned out and thanks to all for helping me   !
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks George, and no I don't need any help with drinking the contents .
 
I've finished the planking. It turned out even better than my 1:48 scale cutter :
 

 
There were no problems at all when I pulled it off the plug. Nothing   needed cleaning up inside :
 

 

 
  Danny

Another small items - davits
 

 

Thank you Mark!
 
As you can see I was able to make this ladder only the third attempt ((.
Theoretically, I could have done this ladder of thin plastic, but I try to maintain the certain style of the model and I think the plastic ladder was be irrelevantly in this cause.
 
Meanwhile, I continue the my build.
The next stage - the making of handrails along the hull sides. I again used the photoetched parts with the wooden stanchions.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here we are with rigging fixed. That cost me about 2 1/2 hours....
 
One question/thought on the anchor setup. In the model instructions, the picture of the anchor up has the anchor ring tied to the double block used for hoisting. It doen't make sense. Wouldn't some kind of hook be used to get the anchor once coming out of the water after hoisted up? What does that look like?

So far this weekend, I got the gun ports framed out and I lined them with a very thin piece of walnut.  I then planked the bulwarks with walnut and the gun deck with maple on the port side.  the starboard side in the process of getting its planks now.  Once that is done, I will sand it all smooth and treenail the deck planking.  Then I will need to finish off the little details needed on the guns and install them.
 
As always, any and all comments, questions, complaints are welcome.
 
 

Thank you .

Apologies for slow updates, but since we had weekend, i wanted to spend some time with my family as well . Today my son had his first ride on my bike and he loved it to bits! Later I took daughter out, just to watch sunset somewhere in countryside, we found some horses as well, took us a while .

Anyway, progress untill yesterday's morning



After that I glued upper deck with its brass plating, bent stairs down, fixed bulwarks completely, painted some cannons, glued hatches, bent bowsprit countless times (it is much easier than it seems!), glued two cannons to the deck...

Hamilton, thanks for advice re guns. It worked for some of them, but since my ship is not pefrect, I might be guilty of poor fit now...

One thing that made build much less enjoyable are all metal parts. All, with no exception. They bend easily, also break easily, are not easy to clean up and a total nightmate to paint! Any coat will come off as soon as I look at it, in addition paints don't really stick well to it.... I'd much rather have plastic cannons and hatches and ply bulwarks.

Instructions state that masts should be painted too. I am not too keen on that, but will try. If I don't like finish, I will just polish them and leave without paint at all.

I finished just now cause there is work tomorrow morning... Photo is of very low quality, but at least shows what I had done so far



Only two guns, deckhouse, anchors and some paint touch-ups and I can get to work on what I like the most - masts, lines, sails! . I think she might be finished by the end of the week, but that's not for sure...

More to follow soon...

Hi folks
 
As I'm fast approaching the completion of my current model, "Symphony", now's a good time to reveal my next project - a miniature model of a 37 metre luxury motor yacht, which I will name "Majellan". The plans will be loosely based on an existing ship, whose plans I found using using Google.
 
The model will have a fully detailed interior (well, as much as I can replicate at this tiny size, anyway)! Majellan's interior layout consists of the following decks:
 
-Lower Deck;
-Main Deck;
-Upper Deck; and
-Sun Deck.
 
The profile of the ship is provided below:
 

 
I hope to commence construction as soon as I can figure out how to build the darn thing!! Talk about a challenge.
 
If you're able to, I'd love it if you could please join me on Magellan's journey.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

washington galley part 7.....stern framing
 
 
hi all
been a busy little bee making frames.
the aft most gunport has now been framed. all frames have been left slightly over length....i will mark in the sheer and trim the frames at a later date.
 
you will see from the photos that i have been trying to ensure as much accuracy as possible.
 
however the top of the lower starboard gunport sill is approx 0.28mm lower than the port sill.
 
in my book this is accurate enough! im not sure what tolerances the original shipwrights would have worked too but this difference equates to about 1/2 inch in real life.
 
ive also now started to construct the first two half frames at the bow.
you can see from the photos how much offset there is between the front and rear components of the frame.....the bevel when cut will bled all of that in.
 
i have also ganged up ablock of 1/8 inch stock ready to cut the hawse pieces at a later date.
 
anyway photos enclosed for your perusal...comments....critiques....most welcome 
 
cheers....mick

Sorry to hear about your illness Dave...hang in there and keep fighting!
 
Wonderful thought to build this for your surgeon...I will follow along if you don't mind.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hi All,
 
Spent the last few days redoing the ships boat to make it about 50% larger. I used the same method to build it as the first version except I changed up the design a bit to accommodate a larger crew and add some side rails. I also made a larger platform and then took a try at making the mast, yard and oars from some toothpicks. Just have to remove some dust I just noticed in the pictures!
 
Overall I am pretty happy with how this version turned out and thanks to all for helping me   !
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 

Sorry to hear about your illness Dave...hang in there and keep fighting!
 
Wonderful thought to build this for your surgeon...I will follow along if you don't mind.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Opened up the plans only three days ago. I do recommend, for anyone who is thinking about building this beautiful "Scratch Build" project, the low cost of having Chuck laser cut the bulkheads for you is money well spent.
 
The photo here is with the bulkheads inserted as a dry fit....and I will tell you every single one of them slid in place like butter and the top surfaces aligned absolutely perfectly.

 
The keel pieces have been added and sealed with a single coat of wipe on poly...

 

 
Chuck recommends using boxwood for all of the exposed parts, but due to the expense and difficulty for me to get boxwood lumber, I am using basswood. There will be a slight difference in color and grain, but I will accept that under the circumstances.