amateur

It took a lot of hours work, but man, what a result!
 
Jan

There was no real progress over the last months.
There will be none in th coming. As we are going to move over to a ne place, everything will be boxed up for the coming months.
And no: the new place has no base,ent that could be turned into a wonderfull workshop
 
Jan

How does one's buildlog disappear: not building....
Actually I did some rope-work thes summer (not too much, there was also a garden to attend)
 



(btw: still missing picassa..... and needing glasses )
 
Jan

Are you going to do furled sails, or sails that are partially taken in ( like in the original Heller version )
 
Jan

your hourly wages for this job must be down to sub-zero values.....
But the result is stunning: the owner of the model should be pleased:
 
Jan

your hourly wages for this job must be down to sub-zero values.....
But the result is stunning: the owner of the model should be pleased:
 
Jan

your hourly wages for this job must be down to sub-zero values.....
But the result is stunning: the owner of the model should be pleased:
 
Jan

your hourly wages for this job must be down to sub-zero values.....
But the result is stunning: the owner of the model should be pleased:
 
Jan

your hourly wages for this job must be down to sub-zero values.....
But the result is stunning: the owner of the model should be pleased:
 
Jan

Are you going to do furled sails, or sails that are partially taken in ( like in the original Heller version )
 
Jan

How does one's buildlog disappear: not building....
Actually I did some rope-work thes summer (not too much, there was also a garden to attend)
 



(btw: still missing picassa..... and needing glasses )
 
Jan

No lanterns totday, but plain rope.
 
I tried to belay some of the lines. Its maddening work: you cant reach the belaying points down the main mast (down teh fore are no belaying points: all lines vanish into the deck). I fear for my ratlines: the ends are coming loose as I get stuck in the shrouds with my fingers or rigginghooks and other helpfull tools.
 

  Mizzen mast: braces of the main topgallant (I did not keep my camera properly upright, no worries, the mast is still the correct way up ) Not very clear picture, but the braces of the cro-jack,attached to the main shrouds, and belayed down the main mast.  As my rigging here does quite deviate the Corel-stuff, I was a bit anxious that the braces woud interfere with the backstays, but they are running nice and with sufficient clearance.   I'm now puzzling on the braces, sheets and clewlines(?) of the fore and main sail, Corel, Ketting, the original model all show something different, and none of them following the book...... to be continued   Jan

As a small inbwtween job, I did not do any rigging today, but tried to make a stern lantern. (i definitely refuse to use teh Corel-stuf from the kit)
I came up with a third prototype (still to be improved upon, yes, I know)

The problem are still numerous:
1. gluing of the window-panes
2. the orientation of the six-sided top and bottom (the whole thing should end up symmetrically )
3. the copper wire was glued in with CA. It turned the window-panes into the famous milky-white (on the inside of course....)
 
Jan

Long time ago, I did sometimes post an updat ehere.
Let's continue that tradition.
 
I did some work on the Mizzen:   The mizzen-yard has a halyard(?) using a tripple block. The parrel has to come around the strop of the lower block, to get the whole thing slightly closer to the mast. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b6oUhGBUNvA/VkNafExV2uI/AAAAAAAABys/gP0vdGbftWQ/s800-Ic42/IMG_1057.JPG[/img] The parrel is slightly too short, I have to put another bead on the rope. Next it has to go round the mast, the ropes through the deadeye, and a violin-block attached to it. (fun to do: the block can only be fitter after the parrel is installed (wish my eyes were better, and my fingers less thick:) ) The bowlines were a bit opf a problem. Andersson shows tham attached to the last aftmost shroud. (as most of the contemporaneous models do) However, the distance between the mizzen and the shrouds is relatievely large, so fitting them to the shrouds was visually not so pleasing. Therefore I followed Ketting, in attaching them to a block attached to the railing, just in front of the half-deck.     Last puzzle: getting all ropes on a fair amount of tension, results in the mizzen going up and aft, while it should go (by sheer laws of gravity: down and foreward). (not too much, otherwise it touches the great capstan, and that should be left free)   To be continued .....(sometime in the distant future  :mrgreen:)      (pics are a bit fuzzy, because macro and flash don't go together too well)   Jan

Photo's are lying yes, but most of the time I see things in my macro-pictures that aren't visible to the naked eye.
So I tend to believe pictures.
Still, I think you are doning a great job to the model!
 
Jan

Photo's are lying yes, but most of the time I see things in my macro-pictures that aren't visible to the naked eye.
So I tend to believe pictures.
Still, I think you are doning a great job to the model!
 
Jan

Photo's are lying yes, but most of the time I see things in my macro-pictures that aren't visible to the naked eye.
So I tend to believe pictures.
Still, I think you are doning a great job to the model!
 
Jan

Photo's are lying yes, but most of the time I see things in my macro-pictures that aren't visible to the naked eye.
So I tend to believe pictures.
Still, I think you are doning a great job to the model!
 
Jan

Why only 'relatively happy', why not just unconditionally happy?
From the pivctures it looks all fine.
 
Jan

Two tips from my own practice:
Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished
Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank.
 
Jan

Two tips from my own practice:
Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished
Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank.
 
Jan

Two tips from my own practice:
Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished
Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank.
 
Jan

Two tips from my own practice:
Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished
Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank.
 
Jan

Two tips from my own practice:
Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished
Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank.
 
Jan

Why only 'relatively happy', why not just unconditionally happy?
From the pivctures it looks all fine.
 
Jan