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amateur
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amateur got a reaction from Eddie in Vasa by puckotred - DeAgostini - Scale 1:65
Two tips from my own practice:
Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished
Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from Eddie in Vasa by puckotred - DeAgostini - Scale 1:65
Two tips from my own practice:
Whenfairing your frames, make sure you go all teh way: the plank should make contct everywhere, most of the time that implies that the whole charring on the outside has gone when you're finished
Second: dont start a new plank on the frame, but in between, and glue a part of wood behind the connection, that way, there will be a smoother run of the plank.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from mtaylor in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
Why only 'relatively happy', why not just unconditionally happy?
From the pivctures it looks all fine.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from Omega1234 in Surabaya by Piet - 1/80 - Mid 17th-Century VOC ship
Sorry Sjors,
Couldn't resist this one.
Here is your lion!
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amateur reacted to kees de mol in Pelikaan 1999 by kees de mol - FINISHED - scale 1/75 - Dutch Beamtrawler
Working on the Pelikaan.
I started on the bullwarks and realized they are the last structural things I have to build. All the other parts have been build and now is the time to put together everything.
Untitled by Model Fishingships, on Flickr
Yesterday I glued the spraydeck on the hull (and with this the maindeck and the structure under the spraydeck which were attached to the spraydeck)
Untitled by Model Fishingships, on Flickr
After that I finished the bullwarks and the next thing is to finish (sanding etc) the hull so I can paint them.
Untitled by Model Fishingships, on Flickr
I also made the metal stands. They are attached to the hull and will be fastened to a wooden plank. It's just the structural part the finishing will follow. The pipes are hollow so I can lead electric wire through them later.
Untitled by Model Fishingships, on Flickr
Untitled by Model Fishingships, on Flickr
Cheers
Kees
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amateur got a reaction from Julie Mo in Planking Clamp Use
i used these pushpins lot cheaper, and essentially the same functionality.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from PeteB in Sternwheeler "Zulu"
I dont see major errors, but then, I've only your version which looks pretty good.
Will the model be live-steam?
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from druxey in PRINS WILLEM by juzek
Are you following Ketting wirh a fore-deck, or do you take the model as it is, without a forecastle-deck?
That deck in the reconstruction is quite a debate, most scholars taking the view that it should not be there.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from KevinR in Confused newbie
Actually, i dont think this will be a rewarding kit.
It looks like a bunch of slightly-out of-scale-put-together-parts.
It is not size as such which is the determining factor, it is scale. Anything below1:64 is kind of fiddly. A large scale model of a small ship is easiervin that respect.
Plastic is a different terrain, but not necessarily easier. Most plastic models are small scale, and therefore have their problems in painting, and detailing. Mking a convincing model out of a plastic kit is something quite daunting:)
With respect to starter: I would choose a model of a relatively snall ship (not a rowing boat;) ), from a fairly known company (so you can find fellow builders)
Solid hull or pob? Each their own problems. I did a couple of solid hulls when i was a kid. Problem was that the raw hulls in the kot weren't symmetrical. Took me ages to get them reasonable .... when the basic is OK, it should be easier.
Jan
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amateur reacted to realworkingsailor in HMS Diana by realworkingsailor (Andy) - Caldercraft - 1:64
Update time! Hooray!
Planking continues slowly and steadily on the starboard side. The second layer of the wale has been added, my first attempt at top and butt (anchor stock). You can just see the shape of the planks through the black paint. I used castello boxwood for the second layer, which was a pleasure to work with. Having the black strake 0.5mm proud of the surrounding planking gave a nice line for the first strake to butt up against.
Below the wales, I've carried on using the kit supplied walnut planking. It is incredibly splintery, Caldercraft must supply some other variety of walnut from that supplied by Amati (go figure). It works after a fashion, and doesn't look too bad. Most of it will be coppered anyway, and I find the the colour contrast to the castello appealing. Also, because the kit supplied planks are also about 1m long, cutting them down to more manageable lengths has made things a lot easier when it comes to bending and tapering, it also makes it easier to get a nice fit and finish where the planks meet the stem and stern counter.
Anyway, that's about it for now
Andy
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amateur got a reaction from popash42 in De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by YankeeD - Scale 1:50 - according to drawings by Mr. O. Blom - First wooden scratch ship build
In the cross sections drwan of the hollandisvhe zweidecker, you can see that there is no need for ventilatipn: these orts are on the same deck as the windows. Above. Also you can see they are in exactly the same height above deck as the ports in the side. These ports are intended as gunports.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from FrankWouts in De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by YankeeD - Scale 1:50 - according to drawings by Mr. O. Blom - First wooden scratch ship build
Those ports are in the main cabin, located on the upper gundeck.
Well above the waterline. The size of the ports is about the same as the size of the gunports in the side of the upper gundeck, so, yes, it would fit.....
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from FrankWouts in De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by YankeeD - Scale 1:50 - according to drawings by Mr. O. Blom - First wooden scratch ship build
Are you sure these are not for guns?
I thought they were namrd 'retraitepoorten' used the same way the chaseports were used.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from mtaylor in Surabaya by Piet - 1/80 - Mid 17th-Century VOC ship
Sorry Sjors,
Couldn't resist this one.
Here is your lion!
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amateur got a reaction from Eddie in HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - by G.L. Scale 1:24
That will be a massive model...
Jan
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amateur reacted to puckotred in Vasa by puckotred - DeAgostini - Scale 1:65
Hello folks...
Due to a lot of things happening at home I have not been able to do any building...
I have to do a lot of sanding and fairing on the frames and can not do this in the kitchen.
My work has also moved to a larger building and we have a lot to do there putting everything in place so I just can't sit down there and sand my ship as the others run around doing all the work...
But a new shipment has arrived. Issues 29-32.
This was in the bag:
Mostly hull planks (81 of them. Good quality), one section of the deck and 3 decorations.
There are now 188 hull planks at 300mm each. Thats 56,4 meters...
(Around issue 48 the second planking will start so the poor quality planks will be covered)
And the decorations:
I will start painting the decorations again as soon as things quiet down here. Have patience...
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amateur got a reaction from PeteB in Confused newbie
Actually, i dont think this will be a rewarding kit.
It looks like a bunch of slightly-out of-scale-put-together-parts.
It is not size as such which is the determining factor, it is scale. Anything below1:64 is kind of fiddly. A large scale model of a small ship is easiervin that respect.
Plastic is a different terrain, but not necessarily easier. Most plastic models are small scale, and therefore have their problems in painting, and detailing. Mking a convincing model out of a plastic kit is something quite daunting:)
With respect to starter: I would choose a model of a relatively snall ship (not a rowing boat;) ), from a fairly known company (so you can find fellow builders)
Solid hull or pob? Each their own problems. I did a couple of solid hulls when i was a kid. Problem was that the raw hulls in the kot weren't symmetrical. Took me ages to get them reasonable .... when the basic is OK, it should be easier.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from geoff in Confused newbie
Actually, i dont think this will be a rewarding kit.
It looks like a bunch of slightly-out of-scale-put-together-parts.
It is not size as such which is the determining factor, it is scale. Anything below1:64 is kind of fiddly. A large scale model of a small ship is easiervin that respect.
Plastic is a different terrain, but not necessarily easier. Most plastic models are small scale, and therefore have their problems in painting, and detailing. Mking a convincing model out of a plastic kit is something quite daunting:)
With respect to starter: I would choose a model of a relatively snall ship (not a rowing boat;) ), from a fairly known company (so you can find fellow builders)
Solid hull or pob? Each their own problems. I did a couple of solid hulls when i was a kid. Problem was that the raw hulls in the kot weren't symmetrical. Took me ages to get them reasonable .... when the basic is OK, it should be easier.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from Eddie in Machine a curer les ports 1750 by guraus (Alexandru) - FINISHED - 1/36
That's something quite different and interesting!
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from mtaylor in Sternwheeler "Zulu"
Is this th link you meant to include
http://steamboats.com/museum/lossingmodels.html
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amateur got a reaction from mtaylor in Sternwheeler "Zulu"
I dont see major errors, but then, I've only your version which looks pretty good.
Will the model be live-steam?
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from mtaylor in Confused newbie
Actually, i dont think this will be a rewarding kit.
It looks like a bunch of slightly-out of-scale-put-together-parts.
It is not size as such which is the determining factor, it is scale. Anything below1:64 is kind of fiddly. A large scale model of a small ship is easiervin that respect.
Plastic is a different terrain, but not necessarily easier. Most plastic models are small scale, and therefore have their problems in painting, and detailing. Mking a convincing model out of a plastic kit is something quite daunting:)
With respect to starter: I would choose a model of a relatively snall ship (not a rowing boat;) ), from a fairly known company (so you can find fellow builders)
Solid hull or pob? Each their own problems. I did a couple of solid hulls when i was a kid. Problem was that the raw hulls in the kot weren't symmetrical. Took me ages to get them reasonable .... when the basic is OK, it should be easier.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from Anja in Confused newbie
Actually, i dont think this will be a rewarding kit.
It looks like a bunch of slightly-out of-scale-put-together-parts.
It is not size as such which is the determining factor, it is scale. Anything below1:64 is kind of fiddly. A large scale model of a small ship is easiervin that respect.
Plastic is a different terrain, but not necessarily easier. Most plastic models are small scale, and therefore have their problems in painting, and detailing. Mking a convincing model out of a plastic kit is something quite daunting:)
With respect to starter: I would choose a model of a relatively snall ship (not a rowing boat;) ), from a fairly known company (so you can find fellow builders)
Solid hull or pob? Each their own problems. I did a couple of solid hulls when i was a kid. Problem was that the raw hulls in the kot weren't symmetrical. Took me ages to get them reasonable .... when the basic is OK, it should be easier.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from EJ_L in Confused newbie
Actually, i dont think this will be a rewarding kit.
It looks like a bunch of slightly-out of-scale-put-together-parts.
It is not size as such which is the determining factor, it is scale. Anything below1:64 is kind of fiddly. A large scale model of a small ship is easiervin that respect.
Plastic is a different terrain, but not necessarily easier. Most plastic models are small scale, and therefore have their problems in painting, and detailing. Mking a convincing model out of a plastic kit is something quite daunting:)
With respect to starter: I would choose a model of a relatively snall ship (not a rowing boat;) ), from a fairly known company (so you can find fellow builders)
Solid hull or pob? Each their own problems. I did a couple of solid hulls when i was a kid. Problem was that the raw hulls in the kot weren't symmetrical. Took me ages to get them reasonable .... when the basic is OK, it should be easier.
Jan
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amateur got a reaction from cog in Surabaya by Piet - 1/80 - Mid 17th-Century VOC ship
Sorry Sjors,
Couldn't resist this one.
Here is your lion!
Our Emblem ®
