amateur

Hello Aa-schipper,
 
(Btw must be a canoe on the Aa ). mars would make a nice model.
Ever considered bying that orher book by Petrejus : brik Irene? Could also be very helpfull building this ship.
 
Jan

Ah, that's why your hair looks so gorgeous
 
@Chuck. I bend the planking using a iron, using the model itself as a guideline. I find it alomost impossible to get the correct bend in one go. So I make a bend, try it on the ship, and repeat, until the desired curve is there (or, in my case almost equally likely, I have to start over again, as the wood splitted)
 
Jan

Ah, that's why your hair looks so gorgeous
 
@Chuck. I bend the planking using a iron, using the model itself as a guideline. I find it alomost impossible to get the correct bend in one go. So I make a bend, try it on the ship, and repeat, until the desired curve is there (or, in my case almost equally likely, I have to start over again, as the wood splitted)
 
Jan

Ah, that's why your hair looks so gorgeous
 
@Chuck. I bend the planking using a iron, using the model itself as a guideline. I find it alomost impossible to get the correct bend in one go. So I make a bend, try it on the ship, and repeat, until the desired curve is there (or, in my case almost equally likely, I have to start over again, as the wood splitted)
 
Jan

Hi Kees,
 
I wouldn't label that as schematic.... Quite nicely detailed on this scale.
 
Jan

Hi PIet,
 
As alsways, different people different opinions.
I woud say: paint, but not green.... You'll have to paint the caprails.
With repsect to the gallion: the upper rail is  often combination of  black and red, the lower ons are just a background for the more colourfull carving work
 
 

Hi Kees,
 
I wouldn't label that as schematic.... Quite nicely detailed on this scale.
 
Jan

Hi Kees,
 
I wouldn't label that as schematic.... Quite nicely detailed on this scale.
 
Jan

Hi Kees,
 
I wouldn't label that as schematic.... Quite nicely detailed on this scale.
 
Jan

I like your paintjob!
 
Jan

Looks like it, yes.
 
Jan

In stead of making theframes higer, you could also consider making the recesses inwhich thegratings rest slightly deeper. I think that willlookbetter.
 
Jan

But as long as those still look way better than my own best efforst, I wouldn't mind looking at your glitches
(Not interested in buying, though )
 
Jan

But as long as those still look way better than my own best efforst, I wouldn't mind looking at your glitches
(Not interested in buying, though )
 
Jan

But as long as those still look way better than my own best efforst, I wouldn't mind looking at your glitches
(Not interested in buying, though )
 
Jan

But as long as those still look way better than my own best efforst, I wouldn't mind looking at your glitches
(Not interested in buying, though )
 
Jan

Many, many thanks, guys !
 
The upper part of the cup board.
 

 

 

 
 

 
In the next few days I still get some dishes . Then the door  can get ist the handle and the hinges.
 

 
Under the LED Light in my dockyard the colours looks absolute terrible, I think.
 

 
Regards Hartmut

Looks like it, yes.
 
Jan

Looks like it, yes.
 
Jan

Looks like it, yes.
 
Jan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 130 – Windlass 3
 
The first picture shows about as much of the ratchet mechanism that will ever be visible on the model – below the open forecastle deck on the port side.
 

 
This was taken just before the opening of the holes in the deck for the connecting rods on either side of the Samson post.  The rods were then sized, flattened and rounded at the ends, and drilled for connecting pins.  The next picture shows the handbrake being made.
 

 
A brass rod was inserted through a brass tube and silver-soldered in.  The outer tube was then squared off and center-marked for the three pin holes.  These are shown being drilled in the next picture.
 

 
The brake was then bent to conform to the final shape. A reinforcing strut was soldered across the top as shown in the next picture, taken after initial pinning together of the parts.
 

 
The brake handles have also been soldered on.  The brake assembly is temporarily bolted through the Samson post, which still has to be cut down to its final height.  In the next picture the windlass has been disassembled and the parts pickled and chemically blackened.
 

 
Both the connecting rods and the ratchet stops were fitted and bolted to the ratchet gears before treatment.  The parts were pickled in Sparex® and blackened in a 3% solution of WinOx®.  This is always a chancey process with me, mainly because of my impatience with pre-cleaning and pickling.  However, the results in this case were acceptable and the preassembled, finished parts are shown below before mounting.
 

 
The next picture shows work on the spindle cogs.  There are six on each spindle that fit into the milled slots.
 

 
Six brass strips were ganged in the vise as shown and roughed out with files.  They were first mounted on masking tape to help them behave when placing in the vise.  The final shaping and rounding was then done on the individual pieces as shown below.
 

 
The cogs were then blackened and epoxied into the slots.  The complete windlass is shown in place in the last picture.
 

 
In this picture the Samson post has been cut down to size and the woodwork given a wax finish.  Note that a backlash stop is installed over the central gear.  This is pinned in a small bracket that is bolted into the Samson post below the deck beam.  The installation is still temporary.  I expect the end axle sections will be wooden in the final installation.
 
 
Ed

Thanks everyone for the likes and Patrick and Jan for your comments.
 
Ah Jan - I must have read your mind because this morning I made the capstan latching pawls.  They are still rough but plan to doll them up tomorrow.  I think I'll paint them blackish to simulate iron. 
 
I also painted most of the railing caps and am rather pleased with the result.  It does cut back on the whitish glared and looks more believable.  Still needs to paint the underside - - - in case somebody checks 
 
Looks like I'm close to start with the green and red paint.  I bought a roll of "Frog Tape" but it's 2 inches wide      I'm planning on cutting a 5 mm piece from it on the bandsaw other wise I have to resort to scissors.  Hope it works.  It's no concern with brushing some "maple" color paint to the railing spindles, they'll be painted over with the green or red anyhow.  I don't want green and red on the underside of the caps    I do have steady hands but this is ridiculous, the tape will prevent that, I hope.
 
The push poles have received another coat of stain but they look kina blotchy, not too bad though.  The good part is that they'll be stowed away.  I started to pre-make the hardware for it. 
 

This shows the rough layout of the capstan backlash and pawl assembly.  I epoxied tho brass bolts through the deck serving as pivot pins for the pawls. They'll be trimmed down a little at the capstan ends, made into a point to fit properly against the rope guides and capstan center body. 
 

 

This shows the pawls in action.
 
Cheers,

And dont forget that most mast are sllightly thicker above deck than at decklevel.
Also, the taper isn't straight, but 'circular'
 
Jan

Hi Piet,
 
Looking great.
Don't forget the ratchets on the capstan!
 
Jan

Hi Piet,
 
Looking great.
Don't forget the ratchets on the capstan!
 
Jan