amateur

Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower).
 
Jan

And the delftware in the cupboard?

The replica as built, not at 45 degrees, but not completely vertical.

Never mind... Try something stronger next time
 
Jan

On the occre website, it is presented as a plank on frame construction.
http://www.occre.com/modelismo-naval/ulises-rc-pack-1.html
 
Jan

Some more progress pictures for this project - some older some more recent.
Alexandru

Been awhile since my last Speedwell update. Work on the forecastle has finished, for the most part. Caulking is black paper. It's a bit more work but a little cleaner than when I use a pencil. The wrought iron belfry is unusual but present on the contemporary model. I twisted 1/32" square brass bar stock with one end in a stationary vice and the other end in a pin vice. Consistent upward pressure while twisting insures an even result.
 



 
 

Iguess that the boats would have been rather flat bottomed, and rounded (both fore and aft). The billings version is just their basic boat. My 20th century seagoing tug has the same ones......)
 
There used to be a build log of chuck passaro of the mayflower. That one has a very nice looking boat. I guess that you could use that shap also for the santa maria's boat.
With respect to the AaotS of the Santa Maria, I have the impressionthat all details that are not known were fillid in using English sources.
 
 
Jan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 126 – The Wheel
 
I had hoped to make the wheel by the same methods used for the larger wheels on Naiad, but do to the smaller size of this wheel and the material, I found that some compromises would be necessary.  They are described later, below.
 
I wanted to use a darker wood for the wheel and decided to use cherry.  This is less hard and strong than the European Boxwood I used on the Naiad wheel.  In the first picture the outer diameter of the wheel has been turned in the lathe and the 39” (.54” act.) diameter is being checked.
 

 
The square cherry block in the four-jawed, self-centering chuck has its grain running perpendicular to the centerline of the lathe.  This would permit using a cross-grain lamination to strengthen the final assembly.  The 1/16” hole in the center of the turning was centered carefully using a center drill in the tailstock, before boring the final hole that will eventually receive the wheel axle.  In the next picture, slots for the 10 spokes are being milled in the face of the turning.
 

 
For this work the chuck was removed from the lathe to the rotating table on the mill without removing the turned piece.  The saw was then centered on the turning and brought down into contact with the face.  The blade here is .032” thick and it was lowered into the work to make a slot about 2.5” inches square.  After each cut across the face of the piece, the table was rotated 36 degrees and repeated to make all the cuts for the 10 square spokes.
 
In the next picture the piece has been returned to the lathe and a laminating piece is being glued on with the grain at 90 degrees to that of the turned piece.  The drill chuck in the tailstock is being used to clamp the glue joint.
 

 
This single cross grain lamination is already a much simpler construction than the multi-layer pentagonal assembly of the two Naiad wheels.
 
After the glue had dried the added piece was turned to the rim diameter and its entire face trimmed off to the final thickness.  The next step was to remove the area between the rim and the hub.  This leaves an integral rim/hub turning that will ensure centering of the hub.  The 10 square spokes were then slipped into the piece as shown in the next picture.
 

 
I had intended to insert these temporarily, to be replaced with the final turned spokes later – one-by-one as was done on the Naiad wheels.  However, I decided this would be impractical on this small wheel.  Apart from the difficulty expected in turning these very small cherry spindles, the amount of gluing surface at the hub was too small without the spokes.  For these reasons I decided to glue these square spokes in at the hub and round the handles by hand.
 
The next picture shows the inside face of the rim being turned through to the hub.  Once the cut passed through the ID of the rim, only the spokes held the assembly together – as with the real wheel..
 

 
In the next picture the wheel has been parted off and is ready for final sizing and shaping of the handles.
 

 
The next picture shows the handles being shaped using diamond grit files – very carefully, since the glued-in spokes may not be replaced if one is broken,
 

 
 
The last picture shows the finished wheel mounted on the helm enclosure.
 

 
The enclosure is still removable and I expect it will spend the next many months stored away somewhere, safe from damage during the remaining construction and rigging of the model.
 
Ed

Slowly, very, very slowly....
 
Murphy is not far away, knots getting loose, sometimes finding out that things were not quite right (the lanyards of the mizzen stay getting stuck behind the parrel of the main yard ....grrrr....)   The forestay is a problem: so many ropes attached to it, that it wants to go forward, even while the individuel ropes are not tensioned. I don't get it better than it is now....   The mizzen yard   And its parrel, quite fiddly stuff.....   Jan

Dying before or after sewing: (whichever way of dying),
when you dye AFTER sewing: make sure your sewing yarns take the colour in the same way as the fabric does.
when you dye BEFORE sewing: make sure your dye does not  disappear by handling your sails during the process.
 
(yes: I learned the hard way )
 
Jan 

Slowly, very, very slowly....
 
Murphy is not far away, knots getting loose, sometimes finding out that things were not quite right (the lanyards of the mizzen stay getting stuck behind the parrel of the main yard ....grrrr....)   The forestay is a problem: so many ropes attached to it, that it wants to go forward, even while the individuel ropes are not tensioned. I don't get it better than it is now....   The mizzen yard   And its parrel, quite fiddly stuff.....   Jan

Dying before or after sewing: (whichever way of dying),
when you dye AFTER sewing: make sure your sewing yarns take the colour in the same way as the fabric does.
when you dye BEFORE sewing: make sure your dye does not  disappear by handling your sails during the process.
 
(yes: I learned the hard way )
 
Jan 

That one is out of production since ages.....
Is there a partslist in your build-instruction that tells what is in the fittings-set?
 
Jan

That one is out of production since ages.....
Is there a partslist in your build-instruction that tells what is in the fittings-set?
 
Jan

That one is out of production since ages.....
Is there a partslist in your build-instruction that tells what is in the fittings-set?
 
Jan

No, the odd ones are connected in a different way: you can see it (once you know ) in the pic above: the normal pais are seized as a pair, on one side of the mast. The singles are seized to each other "ON THE OTHER SIDE of the mast.
The burton pendants (especially when they are single (larger ships had a pair)) are also seized to the one on  the other side of the mast. When you have both one burton as well as a single shrould, you could combine them as a regular pair of shrouds, whcih minimizes your amount of splices and seizings)
 
Jan

The shrouds go down onthe same side as they go up: both ends of the pair are onthe same side.
The foremost pair goes on first (always forget whetehr that is onthe postside or not...), the last one (if it is an uneven number of srhouds per side) has an splice it it, so that there is an eye that can be put ocer the mast top.
 
Jan

The loops are formed by taking the shroud around the mast top, and seizing both ends together.
The loop in the last shroud is made by seizin (or splicing) the end of one shroud somewehere neear the end of the ther one ( and vice versa).
i'll go and lookfor an illustration
 
Jan

No, the odd ones are connected in a different way: you can see it (once you know ) in the pic above: the normal pais are seized as a pair, on one side of the mast. The singles are seized to each other "ON THE OTHER SIDE of the mast.
The burton pendants (especially when they are single (larger ships had a pair)) are also seized to the one on  the other side of the mast. When you have both one burton as well as a single shrould, you could combine them as a regular pair of shrouds, whcih minimizes your amount of splices and seizings)
 
Jan

No, the odd ones are connected in a different way: you can see it (once you know ) in the pic above: the normal pais are seized as a pair, on one side of the mast. The singles are seized to each other "ON THE OTHER SIDE of the mast.
The burton pendants (especially when they are single (larger ships had a pair)) are also seized to the one on  the other side of the mast. When you have both one burton as well as a single shrould, you could combine them as a regular pair of shrouds, whcih minimizes your amount of splices and seizings)
 
Jan

The loops are formed by taking the shroud around the mast top, and seizing both ends together.
The loop in the last shroud is made by seizin (or splicing) the end of one shroud somewehere neear the end of the ther one ( and vice versa).
i'll go and lookfor an illustration
 
Jan

The shrouds go down onthe same side as they go up: both ends of the pair are onthe same side.
The foremost pair goes on first (always forget whetehr that is onthe postside or not...), the last one (if it is an uneven number of srhouds per side) has an splice it it, so that there is an eye that can be put ocer the mast top.
 
Jan

And the delftware in the cupboard?

I needed 1.5 mm, and did not succeed in finding a shop selling beads that small.
I used a clay used for beadmaking (soft clay that hardens after baking it in an oven). i drillen holes of the desired measure in a wooden strip, smeared the clay in the holes, used a piece of thin copper wire to make a hole in the bead, baked it. (While still in the wooden strip) after baking, i used the blunt end of the drill to pish them out of the strip, did some founding of the corners using a bit of sandpaper.
 

 
It worked reasonably well, although Idon'tthink you can get much smaller than 1.5 mmusing this methodl. I have also seen peaple using magic sculpt or something likethat to make small parrels.
 
Jan